In vivo efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol.

BACKGROUND: Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the health of the skin, to treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum. In cosmetology, hydrating, softening, and barrier function of panthenol are utilized. Detailed studies evaluating the efficacy of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical semisolid formulations and establishing its optimum concentration are needed. OBJECTIVES: To investigate whether an addition of 5-13 wt% panthenol in o/w and w/o emulsions increases hydration and supports the barrier properties of the skin. Rheological properties and sensory analysis of prepared formulations are supplemented. METHODS: Noninvasive instrumental methods in vivo were used. The hydration and barrier effect of semisolid formulations on the skin were observed for 48 hour; testing was conducted on 40 women. The effect was compared with formulations without any content of panthenol. The rheological and organoleptic properties of the formulations were evaluated. RESULTS: After applying either form of the formulations containing 7-11 wt% of panthenol hydration of the skin increased, transepidermal water loss decreased. pH of the skin shifted toward neutral after application of tested formulations. The rheological properties of the formulations were influenced by the type of vehicle, the amount of panthenol, and temperature. Sensory evaluation of both semisolid forms revealed statistically significant differences in o/w formulations with regard to spreadability. CONCLUSIONS: The presence of panthenol in an o/w and w/o semisolid formulations significantly enhances skin barrier repair and hydration of the stratum corneum. Better vehicle for the active substance as regards hydration proved o/w formulations.

Stability and in vivo efficiency of natural cosmetic emulsion systems with the addition of vegetable oils

The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: Limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis sativa, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (corneometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 °C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 °C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin.