Cupressus arizonica Greene: Phytochemical Profile and Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Properties of Its Leaf Extracts.

For many decades, natural resources have traditionally been employed in skin care. Here, we explored the phytochemical profile of the aqueous and ethanolic leaf extracts of Cupressus arizonica Greene and assessed their antioxidant, antiaging and antibacterial activities in vitro. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analysis led to the tentative identification of 67 compounds consisting mainly of phenolic and fatty acids, diterpene acids, proanthocyanidins and flavonoid and biflavonoid glycosides. The aqueous extract demonstrated substantial in vitro antioxidant potential at FRAP and DPPH assays and inhibited the four target enzymes (collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase) engaged in skin remodeling and aging with IC50 values close to those of the standard drugs. Moreover, the aqueous extract at 25 mg/mL suppressed biofilm formation by Pseudomonas aeruginosa, a bacterial pathogen causing common skin manifestations, and decreased its swarming and swimming motilities. In conclusion, C. arizonica leaves can be considered a promising candidate for potential application in skin aging.

Argan (Argania Spinosa) press cake extract enhances cell proliferation and prevents oxidative stress and inflammation of human dermal papilla cells.

BACKGROUND: Hair follicle undergoes a growth cycle under the regulation of dermal papilla cells. Due to their enormous roles, these fibroblast cells have been used in various in vitro studies as a screening model to evaluate the effect of hair growth regulating agents. OBJECTIVE: In the current study, we aim to check the hair growth potential effect of Argan press cake (APC) extracted using 50 or 80 % aqueous ethanol on human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) and to determine the molecular mechanism. METHODS: APC were applied to HFDPCs, then cell proliferation assays, mitochondrial biogenesis assay, and oxidative stress assay were assessed. DNA microarray was performed from the cells treated with our samples and minoxidil. Validation of the results was done using Quantitative Real-Time PCR with primers for hair-growth related genes. GC/MS analysis was used to determine the compounds contained in APC 50 and 80 %. RESULTS: APC enhanced cell proliferation along with the stimulation of the ATP content. Additionally, APC had an anti-oxidant activity against H2O2 mediated oxidative stress preventing dermal papilla cell senescence. Consistent with this, global gene profiling analysis showed an activation of hair growth-related pathway, and a downregulation of inflammation- and oxidative stress-related genes by APC extracts. GC/MS analysis revealed that these extracts contained pure fatty acids, derived sugar chains, and pure compounds including tocopherols, squalene, and spinasterol. CONCLUSION: Taken together, here we showed that APC extracts had an effect on stimulating hair growth while inhibiting the inflammation and the oxidative stress of HFDPCs and thus can potentially contribute to an anti-hair loss drug development.

Interfacial and emulsifying properties of purified glycyrrhizin and non-purified glycyrrhizin-rich extracts from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra).

This study compared the interfacial and emulsifying properties of purified saponins and non-purified saponin-rich extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra, and highlighted potential mechanisms by which crude surface-active compositions, such as liquorice root extract (LRE), act as emulsifiers. LRE presented different fluid properties, in comparison to purified glycyrrhizin (PG), at equivalent glycyrrhizin concentrations. Particularly, it exhibited limited glycyrrhizin fibrilization at pH < pKa and efficiently reduced the interfacial tension at the soybean oil/water interface, independently of pH. LRE also presented better emulsification properties, in comparison to PG samples. Emulsions prepared using LRE had lower droplet sizes when using higher oil mass fractions or lower homogenization pressures, which was attributed to 2 main factors: (i) efficient adsorption of glycyrrhizin molecules at relatively low interfacial curvatures, thus accelerating oil phase breakup during homogenization and (ii) sufficient coverage of newly generated droplets due to adsorption of residual surface-active components (e.g. proteins), thus minimizing droplet coalescence.

Microfibrillated cellulose from Argania spinosa shells as sustainable solid particles for O/W Pickering emulsions.

Microfibrillated cellulose (MFC) from Argan (Argania spinosa) shells was prepared by chemical purification of cellulose, then mechanical disintegration via high pressure homogenization was performed to isolate fibrils of cellulose. Chemical characterization of raw argan shell (AS-R), purified cellulose (AS-C), and argan shell MFC (AS-MFC) included FT-IR, XRD and NMR. Morphological characterization of AS-MFC was assessed using TEM. Next, the use of AS-MFC as oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilizer was investigated. The particle concentration was observed to affect the long-term stability of the emulsions; high concentrations (0.5-1 % w/w) of AS-MFC resulted in emulsions that were thermodynamically stable during 15 days of storage, which was demonstrated by the droplet's size evolution. The suitable oil concentration for a maximum volume of emulsion using 1 % w/w AS-MFC was demonstrated. The results show that AS-MFC is able to stabilize 70 % w/w MCT oil without visual phase separation. Finally, CLSM shows the adsorption of AS-MFC at the oil-water interface and the formation of a 3D network surrounding oil droplets, confirming Pickering emulsion formation and stabilization.

Gypenosides as natural emulsifiers for oil-in-water nanoemulsions loaded with astaxanthin: Insights of formulation, stability and release properties.

The formulation, physicochemical stability and bioaccessibility of astaxanthin (AST) loaded oil-in-water nanoemulsions fabricated using gypenosides (GPs) as natural emulsifiers was investigated and compared with a synthetic emulsifier (Tween 20) that is commonly applied in food industry. GPs were capable of producing nanoemulsions with a small volume mean diameter (d4,3 = 125 ±â€¯2 nm), which was similar to those prepared using Tween 20 (d4,3 = 145 ±â€¯6 nm) under the same high-pressure homogenization conditions. GPs-stabilized nanoemulsions were stable against droplet growth over a range of pH (6-8) and thermal treatments (60-120 °C). Conversely, instability occurred under acidic (pH 3-5) and high ionic strength (25-100 mM CaCl2) conditions. In comparison with Tween 20, GPs were more effective at inhibiting AST from degradation during 30 days of storage at both 5 and 25 °C. However, GPs led to lower lipid digestion and AST bioaccessibility from nanoemulsions than did Tween 20.

Formulation and stabilization of oil-in-water nanoemulsions using a saponins-rich extract from argan oil press-cake.

In this study, we formulated and stabilized oil-in-water nanoemulsions using a crude extract from argan press-cake as sole emulsifier. Various extracts from argan press-cake were prepared in order to select the most surface-active one(s) foreseeing emulsions preparation. Fifty percent (v/v) ethanolic extract reduced the interfacial tension to a minimum value at both MCT oil and soybean oil interfaces (12.7 and 10.5 mN m-1 respectively). This extract was also effective at producing fine emulsions with small droplet sizes (d3,2 < 115 nm) and good physical stability using different oils such as soybean oil, MCT oil and fish oil and at conventional homogenization conditions (100 MPa for 4 passes). On the other hand, the emulsions were very sensitive to NaCl addition (≥25 mM) and to acidic pH (<3) indicating that the main stabilization mechanism is electrostatic, likely due to the presence of surface-active compounds with ionizable groups such as saponins.