Effective treatment for sensitive skin: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A.

BACKGROUND: More than 50% of adults report to suffer from sensitive skin. This common condition is characterized by subjective sensations such as prickling, burning, skin tightness or pruritus, and is often accompanied by objective symptoms like inflammation and erythema. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to develop an active ingredient concept for the treatment of sensitive skin. We tested compounds regarding their potential to (i) decrease the release of proinflammatory mediators, which among others induce erythema and (ii) counteract the hyperresponsiveness of nerve fibres and, thus, exert effects on cutaneous neurosensory dysfunction. METHODS: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, licochalcone A and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were analysed in vitro regarding their potential to (i) decrease the release of PGE2 and activation of NFκB and to (ii) inhibit TRPV1 activation or the release of neuronal CGRP. To assess subjective and objective symptoms of skin sensitivity in vivo, two controlled, single-blind, randomized studies were conducted with 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and the combination with licochalcone A. RESULTS: In vitro, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol significantly reduced TRPV1 activation, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester had no effect on receptor activation. Licochalcone A significantly decreased NFκB signalling and PGE2 secretion, at lower concentrations than acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester. A formulation containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol showed a significant immediate anti-stinging/anti-burning effect in vivo, and a cream base containing a combination of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and a licochalcone A-rich licorice extract reduced shaving-induced erythema. CONCLUSION: In vitro and in vivo data indicate that the combination of the TRPV1 antagonist 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and the potent anti-inflammatory licochalcone A provide an effective active ingredient concept for the treatment of sensitive skin, as the topical application resulted in an immediate relief from symptoms such as erythema and stinging.

Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin.

As an organism ages, there is a decline in mitochondrial function and cellular energy balance. This decline is both accelerated by and can cause the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, lipid membranes as well as structural and catalytic proteins, especially those involved in energetic pathways of cells. Further, ROS have also been linked to some of the detrimental skin changes that occur as a result of photoaging. We have previously shown that levels of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), a component of the respiratory chain in mitochondria, are reduced in skin cells from aging donors, and that topical supplementation can ameliorate processes involved in skin aging. Creatine is another important component of the cellular energy system and phosphocreatine, its phosphorylated form, functions as a reservoir for high energy phosphates. Unfortunately the creatine system and thus the energy storage mechanism in skin are negatively affected by aging and conditions of oxidative stress. This article reviews some of our in vivo data about the synergistic effects of combining a stabilized form of Creatine with CoQ10 and clearly depicts their beneficial effects as active ingredients in topical formulations.

Complex formation of sericoside with hydrophilic cyclodextrins: improvement of solubility and skin penetration in topical emulsion based formulations.

The main objective of this study was to devise novel methods for improving the solubility of the anti-inflammatory triterpenoid sericoside, the main component of Terminalia sericea extract, thus enabling its incorporation into topical formulations. Sericoside was stabilized by complex formation with hydrophilic derivatives of beta- and gamma-cyclodextrins in a molar ratio of 1.0:1.1. The complex of extract and cyclodextrin was equilibrated in water at 25 degrees C for approximately 24 h. The dehydrated complexes of T. sericea extract and cyclodextrin were characterized by differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry analysis and X-ray diffraction. Complex formation with beta-cyclodextrin as well as gamma-cyclodextrin derivatives was detectable using these three analytical tools; however, only complexes with gamma-cyclodextrin derivatives showed stability upon storage after incorporation into topical o/w or w/o formulations. Furthermore, a T. sericea extract/gamma-cyclodextrin complex incorporated in an o/w formulation resulted in a 2.6-fold higher percutaneous penetration of sericoside in in vitro excised pig skin as compared to pure T. sericea extract. For the first time, the virtually insoluble anti-inflammatory active sericoside was incorporated into a topical emulsion based formulation in a stable manner, resulting in efficient skin penetration.

Water-in-oil emollients as steroid-sparing adjunctive therapy in the treatment of psoriasis.

An open label study of ninety-six patients with chronic plaque-type psoriasis demonstrated the efficacy of the addition of water-in-oil emollients to a topical corticosteroid regimen. Twice daily application of betamethasone dipropionate cream and once daily application of both betamethasone dipropionate cream and either a water-in-oil based moisturizing cream or lotion were equivalent in efficacy (p = 0.05). Once daily application of both betamethasone dipropionate cream and either a water-in-oil based cream or lotion was significantly better than once daily application of betamethasone dipropionate cream alone (p = 0.05). Water-in-oil emollients are useful in the therapy of chronic, plaque-type psoriasis and provide a steroid-sparing effect.