Characterization of tyrosinase inhibitory constituents from the aerial parts of Humulus japonicus using LC-MS/MS coupled online assay.

In the screening of natural products for the development as cosmetic ingredients, the EtOAc-soluble fraction of Humulus japonicus showed tyrosinase inhibitory activity. HPLC-MS/MS coupled online tyrosinase assay of EtOAc-soluble fraction of H. japonicus characterized the twenty-eight constituents including two unknown ones and their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Fractionation of H. japonicus using various chromatographic techniques yielded thirty-eight compounds. The chemical structures of isolated compounds were identified by spectroscopic analysis. As characterized by HPLC-MS/MS analysis, we isolated twenty-four predicted compounds and further identified two unknown ones, named humulusides A (1) and B (2). Additional ten compounds were also identified by purification. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of isolated compounds were evaluated, which was closely correlated with the results from HPLC-MS/MS coupled online tyrosinase assay. Consistent with predicted data, two major compounds, trans-N-coumaroyltyramine (14) and cis-N-coumaroyltyramine (15) showed tyrosinase inhibition with IC50 values of 40.6 and 36.4 µM. Taken together, H. japonicus is suggested as whitening ingredient in cosmetic products. In addition, HPLC-MS/MS coupled tyrosinase assay is powerful tool for predicting active compounds with short time and limited amounts, although identification of new compounds and verification of predicted data are also needs to be demonstrated by further experiment.

Characterization of Melanogenesis Inhibitory Constituents of Morus alba Leaves and Optimization of Extraction Conditions Using Response Surface Methodology.

Melanin is a natural pigment that plays an important role in the protection of skin, however, hyperpigmentation cause by excessive levels of melatonin is associated with several problems. Therefore, melanogenesis inhibitory natural products have been developed by the cosmetic industry as skin medications. The leaves of Morus alba (Moraceae) have been reported to inhibit melanogenesis, therefore, characterization of the melanogenesis inhibitory constituents of M. alba leaves was attempted in this study. Twenty compounds including eight benzofurans, 10 flavonoids, one stilbenoid and one chalcone were isolated from M. alba leaves and these phenolic constituents were shown to significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B6F10 melanoma cells. To maximize the melanogenesis inhibitory activity and active phenolic contents, optimized M. alba leave extraction conditions were predicted using response surface methodology as a methanol concentration of 85.2%; an extraction temperature of 53.2 °C and an extraction time of 2 h. The tyrosinase inhibition and total phenolic content under optimal conditions were found to be 74.8% inhibition and 24.8 µg GAE/mg extract, which were well-matched with the predicted values of 75.0% inhibition and 23.8 µg GAE/mg extract. These results shall provide useful information about melanogenesis inhibitory constituents and optimized extracts from M. alba leaves as cosmetic therapeutics to reduce skin hyperpigmentation.