The whitening effect of cuscutin responsible for traditional use of Bergenia purpurascens.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The roots and rhizomes of Bergenia purpurascens (Hook. f. et Thomson) Engl., was used as a sunscreen to protect against ultraviolet rays in Tibet of China historically, but its skin whitening constituents and pharmacological effects of this plant remained unknown. AIM OF THE STUDY: To investigate the anti-melanogenesis effect of B. purpurascens in vitro and in vivo, and then explore the preliminary mechanism. MATERIALS AND METHODS: An ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin injury model of mice was used to verify the ameliorative effect of B. purpurascens extract (BPE) on ultraviolet damage. Then, alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced murine melanoma cell line (B16F10) melanin generation model was further adopted to approval the effects of BPE and its bioactive compound, cuscutin, in vitro. Moreover, α-MSH stimulated melanogenesis model in zebrafish was employed to confirm the anti-pigmentation effect of cuscutin. Then, proteins expressions associated with melanin production were observed using western blotting assay to explore preliminary mechanism. RESULTS: BPE inhibited UVB-induced mice injury and restored skin barrier function observably in vivo. BPE and cuscutin suppressed the overproduction of melanin in α-MSH induced B16F10 significantly, in which cuscutin exhibited better effect than well-known whitening agent α-arbutin at same 10 µg/mL concentration. Moreover, the pigmentation of zebrafish embryo was decreased by cuscutin. Finally, cuscutin showed significant downregulation of expressions of tyrosinase (TYR) and tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in the melanogenic signaling pathway. CONCLUSION: B. purpurascens extract and its major bioactive constituent, cuscutin, showed potent anti-melanogenesis and skin-whitening effect by targeting TYR and TRP-2 proteins for the first time, which supported its traditional use.

In Vitro and In Vivo Antimelanogenesis Effects of Leaf Essential Oil from Agathis dammara.

Agathis species are widely distributed around Southeast Asia, Australasia, South Pacific islands, and etc. Traditionally, Agathis species have been used as the folk medicines, the common ethnopharmacological uses of Agathis genus are the treatments of headache and myalgia. This study aims to investigate the chemical composition of Agathis dammara (Lamb.) Rich. leaf essential oil and to explore its antimelanogenesis effect. The chemical constituents of leaf essential oil are analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the major constituents of leaf essential oil are sesquiterpenoids. The major constituents are δ-cadinene (16.12%), followed by γ-gurjunene (15.57%), 16-kaurene (12.43%), ß-caryophyllene (8.58%), germacrene D (8.53%), and γ-cadinene (5.33%). As for the in vitro antityrosinase activity, leaf essential oil inhibit the tyrosinase activity of mushroom when the substrate is 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA). Leaf essential oil prevents tyrosinase from acting as diphenolase and catalyzing L-DOPA to dopaquinone, and converting into dark melanin pigments. A. dammara leaf essential oil also exhibits the in vivo antimelanogenesis effect, leaf essential oil reduces 43.48% of melanin formation in zebrafish embryos at the concentration of 50 µg/mL. Results reveal A. dammara leaf essential oil has the potential for developing the skin whitening drug and depigmentation ingredient for hyperpigmentary disorders.

Characterization and screening of anti-melanogenesis and anti-photoaging activity of different enzyme-assisted polysaccharide extracts from Portulaca oleracea L.

BACKGROUND: The flavonoids and polysaccharides in Portulaca oleracea L. (PO) have significant antibacterial and antioxidant effects, which can inhibit common bacteria and remove free radicals in the body. However, there was little research on the use of PO to alleviate hyperpigmentation and photoaging damage. PURPOSE: This study was to investigate the anti-photoaging and whitening activity mechanism of polysaccharide of PO (POP) in vitro and in vivo. METHOD: In this study, 16 fractions obtained by four enzyme-assisted extraction from PO and their scavenging capabilities against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and hydroxyl radicals were evaluated. Among these fractions, a polysaccharide fraction (VPOP3) showed the strongest biological activity. VPOP3 was characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, molecular weight (MW), and monosaccharide composition analysis, and the protective effect of VPOP3 on photoaging and hyperpigmentation was researched. RESULTS: VPOP3 is a low-MW acidic heteropolysaccharide with MW mainly distributed around 0.71KDa, arabinose as its main monosaccharide component. VPOP3 reliably reduced the reactive oxygen species levels in cells and zebrafish and the level of lipid peroxidation in zebrafish. In addition, VPOP3 inhibited UVB-induced apoptotic body formation and apoptosis by downregulating caspase-3 and Bax and upregulating Bcl-2 in mitochondrion-mediated signaling pathways. On the other hand, VPOP3 at high concentrations significantly downregulated the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase (TYR), and TYR-related protein-1 and TYR-related protein-2 in the melanogenic signaling pathway to achieve a whitening effect. CONCLUSION: The above results showed that VPOP3 has superior activities of anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis and can be utilized as a safe resource in the manufacture of cosmetics.

Antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of extracts from Leonurus japonicus Houtt.

Leonurus japonicus Houtt is an important anti-skin pigmentation herb used in traditional Chinese medicine. However, the molecular basis for this activity is complex and not fully understood. In this study, water and ethanol extracts and polysaccharide extract from L. japonicus (LJPs) were analyzed by LC-MS/MS and HPLC-DAD separately. Cytotoxicity was analyzed by using CCK-8, antioxidant activity using flow cytometer, anti-MMPs, anti-tyrosinase and signalling pathway analysis using Western blotting to investigate their anti-melanogenesis function. The results showed that the water and ethanol extracts contained alkaloids, flavonoids, and phenolic acids. The LJPs mainly contain glucose, fucose, glucuronic acid, mannose, threonine and arginine, and structure characterization by FITR analyses indicated that LJPs have ß- or α-D-glycosidic bonds and contain pyranose rings. The L. japonicus extracts displayed high cell viability at their maximum concentration. The water extract and polysaccharides significantly reduced lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) content and exhibited a cytoprotective role. Also, these extracts displayed higher matrix metalloproteinase-2 (anti-MMP-2), anti-MMP-9 and anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the polysaccharides displayed significantly greater inhibitory effect on intracellular ROS and tyrosinase protein expression than α-arbutin and ursolic acid used for the clinical treatment of skin pigmentation. This study also investigated the polysaccharide inhibition of melanin synthesis by repressing the expression of melanocytic lineage-specific transcription factor (MITF) and melanogenic enzymes via modulation of the phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K-Akt-mTOR) and ß-catenin pathways. The overall results indicate that L. japonicus is a promising candidate for anti-pigmentation treatment.

Methoxyflavones from Black Ginger (Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker) and their Inhibitory Effect on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells.

Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker (Zingiberaceae), commonly known as Thai ginseng or black ginger, is a tropical medicinal plant in many regions. It has been traditionally used to treat various ailments, including ulcers, dysentery, gout, allergies, abscesses, and osteoarthritis. As part of our ongoing phytochemical study aimed at discovering bioactive natural products, we investigated potential bioactive methoxyflavones from K. parviflora rhizomes. Phytochemical analysis aided by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) led to the isolation of six methoxyflavones (1-6) from the n-hexane fraction of the methanolic extract of K. parviflora rhizomes. The isolated compounds were structurally determined to be 3,7-dimethoxy-5-hydroxyflavone (1), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyflavone (2), 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3), 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4), 3,7,4'-trimethylkaempferol (5), and 5-hydroxy-3,7,3',4'-tetramethoxyflavone (6), based on NMR data and LC-MS analysis. All of the isolated compounds were evaluated for their anti-melanogenic activities. In the activity assay, 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3) and 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4) significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, structure-activity relationship analysis revealed that the methoxy group at C-5 in methoxyflavones is key to their anti-melanogenic activity. This study experimentally demonstrated that K. parviflora rhizomes are rich in methoxyflavones and can be a valuable natural resource for anti-melanogenic compounds.

Morus alba L. root decreases melanin synthesis via sphingosine-1-phosphate signaling in B16F10 cells.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Morus alba L. has long been used for beauty in many Asian countries and regions, including anti-aging and hyperpigmentation. AIM OF THE STUDY: This study aimed at the inhibitory effect of Morus alba L. root on melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and the mechanism involved. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This study evaluated the anti-melanogenic effect of Morus alba L. root extract (MAR) on B16F10 melanoma cells by assessing cell viability, melanin accumulation, cellular tyrosinase activity, intra/inter-cellular S1P levels, cellular S1P-related metabolic enzyme activity, and western blot analysis. In addition, the potential S1P lyase (S1PL) inhibitory constituents in MAR were identified by LC-MS/MS. RESULTS: Without affecting the viability of B16F10 melanoma cells, MAR inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, thereby reducing the accumulation of melanin. MAR also downregulated the expression level of MITF via activating the ERK signaling pathway. Furthermore, MAR increased the intra/inter-cellular S1P by inhibiting S1PL. Several compounds with inhibitory S1PL activity have been identified in MAR, such as mulberroside A and oxyresveratrol. CONCLUSIONS: The anti-melanogenic effects of MAR mainly involve promoting MITF degradation mediated via S1P-S1PR3-ERK signaling through increasing cellular S1P levels by inhibiting S1PL activity.

Natural polyphenols: a promising bioactive compounds for skin care and cosmetics.

The physiological and morphological aspects of skin suffer from frequent change. Numerous internal and external factors have direct impact on inducing various skin problems like inflammation, aging, cancer, oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation etc. The use of plant polyphenols as a photo-ecting agent is gaining popularity nowadays. Polyphenols are known to enhance endogenic antioxidant system of skin thereby preventing various skin diseases. The biological activity of plant polyphenols is dependent on their physicochemical properties for overcoming the epidermal barriers to reach the specific receptor. Several evidences have reported the vital role polyphenols in mitigating adverse skin problems and reverting back the healthy skin condition. The interest in plant derived skin care products is emerging due to the changing notion of people to shift their focus towards use of plant-based products. The present review draws an attention to uncover the protective role of polyphenols in prevention of various skin problems. Several in vitro and in vivo studies have been summarized that claims the efficacious nature of plant extract having dermatological significance.

Anti-Melanogenesis Effect of Polysaccharide from Saussurea involucrata on Forskolin-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells.

As one of the prominent medicinal plants listed in the Chinese pharmacopoeia (2020), Saussurea involucrata (Kar. et Kir.) Sch.-Bip was demonstrated to possess various therapeutic effects. In our recent research, we extracted the polysaccharides from S. involucrata (SIP) at optimal conditions and conducted further structure elucidation on the main fraction as well as the confirmation of its possible anti-inflammatory activity. Hence, in this work, we assessed the in vitro antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenesis effects of the crude SIP in forskolin-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. The results show that SIP possessed strong antioxidant activity and was effective in concentration-dependently decreasing melanin formation and inhibiting tyrosinase activity in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. Based on these results, the inhibitory mechanism of melanogenesis was investigated by measuring Tyrosinase (TYR), Tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), Tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2), Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) signaling protein members, and ß-catenin degradation in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. The anti-melanogenesis response of SIP might be attributed to the regulation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) phosphorylation and ß-catenin degradation pathways. These results suggest that polysaccharides from S. involucrata possess a strong anti-melanogenic effect, and thus could be used as a high-value natural material for skin whitening in cosmeceutical industries.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenesis Effects of Colloidal Gold Camellia sinensis L. Extracts.

Green tea extract derived from the leaves of Camellia sinensis L. (CS), is a representative beverage with antioxidant, anti-cancer, and anti-viral properties. CS extract is also used in cosmetics. Colloidal gold is generally a sol or colloidal suspension of gold nanoparticles in water. Colloidal gold green tea (CGCS), cultivated as a fertilizer using this colloidal gold solution, contains gold minerals and possesses anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and anti-tumor properties. However, the skin bioactivity of CGCS has not yet been investigated. In this study, we investigated the effect of the CGCS extract on skin whitening. CGCS extract contained high levels of phenols and flavonoids and displayed 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity in a concentration-dependent manner. CGCS extract inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells more effectively than the CS extract. Moreover, the CGCS extract decreased the expression levels of the melanogenesis-related proteins, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related proteins (TRPs), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In conclusion, our study showed that the CGCS extract inhibits the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 via the downregulation of MITF, thereby inhibiting melanin synthesis. Therefore, CGCS can potentially be used as a skin-whitening ingredient in the cosmetic industry.

Extraction and Concentration of Waste Pueraria lobata Stems with Antioxidants and Anti-Melanogenesis Activity as a Novel Skin Whitening Agent for Natural Cosmetic Prototypes.

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is used commercially in different products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, and teas, but its stem part is rarely used and studied. Therefore, this study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of the bioactive fraction of P. lobata stem and investigated whether the activated carbon decolorization technique would have an impact on its activity and chemical composition. We observed that the dichloromethane fraction of P. lobata stem (DCM-PLS) has excellent antioxidant and anti-melanin synthesis activity at a concentration of 50 µg/mL. For the investigation of the anti-melanogenesis mechanism, we evaluated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was depressed by the DCM-PLS. Daidzin was identified as the main active ingredient in DCM-PLS by using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-hyphenated with tandem mass spectrometry. In addition, the activated carbon decolorization technology has no negative impact on the main components and bioactivity of DCM-PLS. DCM-PLS also did not induce any skin response in the human skin safety test. Collectively, DCM-PLS could be used as a natural type of skin-whitening agent in skin care products.

Undescribed alkyne-geranylcyclohexenetriols from the endophyte Diaporthe caulivora 09F0132 and their anti-melanogenic activity.

To explore valuable endophytic fungus from Formosan Lauraceous plants as natural medicinal products, the fungus, Diaporthe caulivora isolated from leaves of Neolitsea daibuensis, was investigated. Through a thorough investigation of the ethanolic extract of the solid fermentation of D. caulivora 09F0132, six undescribed alkyne-geranylcyclohexenetriols, caulivotrioloxins A-F, one undescribed trichopyrone, diapopyrone, two undescribed sesquiterpenes, caulibysins A-B, one compound firstly isolated from the natural source, 3-O-desmethyl phomentrioloxin, and eight known compounds have been successfully identified. The absolute configuration of caulibysin A was confirmed by single-crystal X-ray diffraction, and those of (3R,8S)-5,7-dihydroxy-3-(1-hydroxyethyl)phthalide and (3S,8S)-5,7-dihydroxy-3-(1-hydroxyethyl)phthalide were determined by circular dichroism (CD) spectra. Among the isolated compounds, caulivotrioloxin A concentration-dependently decreased the cellular melanin contents and tyrosinase activities in mouse melanoma B16-F10 cells, suggesting the anti-melanogenic potentials. The anti-melanogenic effects of caulivotrioloxin A involved the decrease in the protein expressions of melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2. Taken together, these results suggested that the isolates from D. caulivora could be served as natural melanogenesis inhibitors for cosmeceutical applications.

Anti-melanogenesis effect from Wampee fruit pectin via α-MSH/TRY pathway in A375 cells.

BACKGROUND: Polysaccharides from wampee have been reported to process various biological activities, while the relationship between structure and bioactivities has been barely addressed. Pectin, an abundant water-soluble polysaccharide in wampee, showed significant antioxidant activity, which was associated with the anti-melanogenic activity. Therefore, this study investigated the physicochemical characteristics and the anti-melanogenesis effect of pectin extracted from wampee fruit in A375 cells. METHODS: The physicochemical characterization of pectin from wampee fruit was investigated by gel chromatography (GCP), FT-IR spectroscopy, and NMR spectroscopy methods. The anti-melanogenesis effects and mechanism were evaluated by mushroom tyrosine enzyme and human melanin cell model in vitro. RESULTS: The results showed that a molecular weight of 5.271 × 105 Da wampee fruit pectin (WFP) were mainly composed of mannose (Man), ribose (Rib), rhamnose (Rha), glucuronic acid (Glc A), glucose (Glc), galacturonic acid (Gal A), galactose (Gal), and arabinose (Ara), which linked with →4)-ß-D-Galp-(1 → units. The current study revealed that WFP could significantly suppress mushroom TRY activity in vitro. Furtherly, WFP significantly reduced intracellular and extracellular melanin formation in A375 melanoma cells depending on the presence of alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH). TRY activity was only inhibited in α-MSH treated A375 cells. Western blot analysis demonstrated that WFP reverse α-MSH induced melanogenesis in A375 melanoma cells, including in down-regulated TRY, TYRP-1, TYRP-2, MITF and CREB expressions. CONCLUSION: These results indicated that WFP could inhibit α-MSH induced melanogenesis in A375 melanoma cells via α-MSH/TRY pathway. In conclusion, these data provided a new perspective to annotate WFP anti-melanogenesis activity mechanism.

Antioxidant Capacity of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. and Its Beneficial Effects Related to Anti-Aging in HaCaT and B16F10 Cells.

Skin aging is a natural process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and many skin anti-aging strategies have been developed. Plants from the genus Potentilla has been used in Europe and Asia to treat various diseases. Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. has been used as a traditional medicinal herb in China and has recently been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects. Despite the biological and pharmacological potential of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt., its skin anti-aging effects remain unclear. Therefore, this study evaluated the free radical scavenging, moisturizing, anti-melanogenic, and wound-healing effects of an ethanol extract of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. (Pp-EE). Pp-EE was found to contain phenolics and flavonoids and exhibits in vitro antioxidant activities. α-Linolenic acid was found to be a major component of Pp-EE on gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Pp-EE promoted the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis-related enzymes and suppressed the expression of HA degradation-related enzymes in keratinocytes, so it may increase skin hydration. Pp-EE also showed inhibitory effects on the production and secretion of melanin in melanocytes. In a scratch assay, Pp-EE improved skin wound healing. Taken together, Pp-EE has several effects that may delay skin aging, suggesting its potential benefits as a natural ingredient in cosmetic or pharmaceutical products.

Triterpenoids from the leaves of Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus with their anti-melanogenesis and anti-tyrosinase activities.

Excessive production of melanin causes various dermatological disorders including hyperpigmentation. To search for anti-melanogenesis candidates from natural products, we discovered that leaves of Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus (OFA) suppressed melanin production. The extract of OFA leaves and its fractions were subjected to bioactivity-guided separation by targeting active constituents and a total of four triterpenoids were obtained: 3α,24-dihydroxyurs-12-en-28 oic acid (1), pomolic acid (2), maslinic acid (3), and corosolic acid (4). Compounds 1 and 2 were isolated from this plant for the first time. All compounds were evaluated for their inhibitory activities against melanin production and tyrosinase activity. Active compounds were further investigated to understand their mechanisms of action. Results revealed that they significantly down-regulated TYRP-1 and TYRP-2 expression levels. Our results clarified the whitening property of this plant and provided evidence that active constituents of this plant possessed anti-melanogenesis effect and anti-tyrosinase activity for the first time.

Diversity of Adenostemma lavenia, multi-potential herbs, and its kaurenoic acid composition between Japan and Taiwan.

Adenostemma lavenia (L.) Kuntze (Asteraceae) is widely distributed in tropical regions of East Asia, and both A. lavenia and A. madurense (DC) are distributed in Japan. In China and Taiwan, A. lavenia is used as a folk medicine for treating lung congestion, pneumonia, and hepatitis. However, neither phylogenic nor biochemical analysis of this plants has been performed to date. We have reported that the aqueous extract of Japanese A. lavenia contained high levels of ent-11α-hydroxy-15-oxo-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (11αOH-KA; a kaurenoic acid), which is a potent anti-melanogenic compound. Comparison of chloroplast DNA sequences suggested that A. lavenia is originated from A. madurense. Analyses of kaurenoic acids revealed that Japanese A. lavenia and A. madurense contained high levels of 11αOH-KA and moderate levels of 11α,15OH-KA, while Taiwanese A. lavenia mainly contained 9,11αOH-KA. The diverse biological activities (downregulation of Tyr, tyrosinase, gene expression [anti-melanogenic] and iNOS, inducible nitric oxide synthase, gene expression [anti-inflammatory], and upregulation of HO-1, heme-oxygenase, gene expression [anti-oxidative]) were associated with 11αOH-KA and 9,11αOH-KA but not with 11α,15OH-KA. Additionally, 11αOH-KA and 9,11αOH-KA decreased Keap1 (Kelch-like ECH-associated protein 1) protein levels, which was accompanied by upregulation of protein level and transcriptional activity of Nrf2 (NF-E2-related factor-2) followed by HO-1 gene expression. 11αOH-KA and 9,11αOH-KA differ from 11α,15OH-KA in terms of the presence of a ketone (αß-unsaturated carbonyl group, a thiol modulator) at the 15th position; therefore, thiol moieties on the target proteins, including Keap1, may be important for the biological activities of 11αOH-KA and 9,11αOH-KA and A. lavenia extract.

Comparative study of the photo­protective and anti­melanogenic properties of gomisin D, J and O.

Skin cancer is the most common human malignancy worldwide and solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is known to serve an important role in its pathogenesis. Natural candidate compounds with antioxidant, photoprotective and anti­melanogenic effects were investigated against the background of skin photoprotective and anti­melanogenic properties. Gomisin D, J and O are dibenzocyclooctadiene lignans present in Kadsura medicinal plants and possess several pharmacological activities. In this study, the functions and mechanisms underlying the effects of gomisin D, J and O in UVA­and UVB­irradiated keratinocytes and α­melanocyte stimulating hormone (α­MSH)­stimulated melanocytes were explored. Following UVA and UVB irradiation, keratinocytes were treated with gomisin D, J and O, and keratinocyte viability, lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and apoptosis were examined. The results demonstrated that gomisin D and J improved keratinocyte viability and reduced LDH release under UVA and UVB irradiation. Intracellular ROS production induced by UVA and UVB irradiation was suppressed by gomisin D and J. In addition, Annexin V and TUNEL staining analysis indicated that gomisin D and J have significant anti­apoptotic effects on UVA­and UVB­irradiated keratinocytes. After α­MSH stimulation, melanocytes were treated with gomisin D, J and O, and the changes in melanocyte viability, intracellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and mechanisms underlying these changes were examined. Gomisin D markedly inhibited the α­MSH­induced increase in intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Mechanistically, gomisin D reduced the protein and mRNA expression levels of microphthalmia­associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase­related protein (TRP)­1 and TRP­2 in α­MSH­stimulated melanocytes. In addition, gomisin D markedly downregulated α­MSH­induced phosphorylation of protein kinase A and cAMP response element binding protein, which are known to be present upstream of the MITF, tyrosinase, TRP­1 and TRP­2 genes. Overall, gomisin D has photoprotective and anti­melanogenic effects; these findings provide a basis for the production of potential brightening and photoprotective agents using natural compounds such as gomisin D.

A Comparative Study on Photo-Protective and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of Different Kadsura coccinea Extracts.

Kadsura coccinea (KC), a beneficial plant for human health, has been used for centuries in China, Thailand, and Korea in folk medicine and food. There is evidence supporting the biological effects of highly bioactive ingredients in KC such as lignans, triterpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, steroids, and amino acids. In this study, we aimed to explore the effects, functions, and mechanisms of the extracts from KC root (KCR), stem (KCS), leaf (KCL), and fruit (KCF) in UVA and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanocytes. First, the total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of KCR, KCS, KCL, and KCF and their radical scavenging activities were investigated. These parameters were found to be in the following order: KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. UVA and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes were treated with KCR, KCS, KCL, and KCF, and keratinocyte viability, LDH release, intracellular ROS production, and apoptosis were examined. Our results demonstrated that KC extracts improved keratinocyte viability and reduced LDH release, intracellular ROS production, and apoptosis in the presence UVA and UVB irradiation. The overall photoprotective activity of the KC extracts was confirmed in the following order: KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. Moreover, KC extracts significantly decreased the intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-stimulated melanocytes. Mechanistically, KC extracts reduced the protein and mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in α-MSH-stimulated melanocytes. In addition, these extracts markedly downregulated myophthalmosis-related transcription factor expression and cAMP-related binding protein phosphorylation, which is upstream of the regulation of Tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. The overall anti-melanogenic activity of the KC extracts was established in the following order. KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. Overall, the KC extracts exert photoprotective and anti-melanogenic effects, providing a basis for developing potential skin-whitening and photoprotective agents.

Evaluation of Anti-Melanogenesis Activity of Enriched Pueraria lobata Stem Extracts and Characterization of Its Phytochemical Components Using HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS.

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is a widely used herbal medicine worldwide, whereas the stem of the plant is discarded or used as feed for livestock. To reuse and exploit the stem of P. lobata as a resource, we investigated its potential as a skin-whitening agent. We found that the developed, enriched P. lobata stem (PLS) extract significantly inhibited melanin production in the 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced B16/F10 cells at a concentration of 50 µg/mL. To further confirm the mechanism of the antimelanogenic effect of the enriched PLS extracts, we examined the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was suppressed by the extracts. To standardize and implement effective quality control of the enriched PLS extracts, its major chemical constituents were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry. In total, 12 constituents were identified. In silico analysis showed that the main constituents, puerarin and daidzin, had excellent binding affinities for human tyrosinase. Collectively, our results suggest that the PLS extracts could be used as anti-pigmentation agents.

Seven traditional Chinese herbal extracts fermented by Lactobacillus rhamnosus provide anti-pigmentation effects by regulating the CREB/MITF/tyrosinase pathway.

Skin pigmentation is resulted from several processes, such as melanin synthesis transportation and abnormal melanin accumulation in keratinocytes. Various studies have suggested that seven traditional Chinese herbal extracts from Atractylodes macrocephala, Paeonia lactiflora, Bletilla striata, Poria cocos, Dictamnus dasycarpus, Ampelopsis japonica and Tribulus terrestris (which we collectively named ChiBai), show several protective effects toward skin-related diseases. Lactobacillus rhamnosus, a lactic acid bacterium, has been reported to treat skin inflammation and atopic dermatitis. In this study, the broth produced by the cofermentation of ChiBai with Lactobacillus rhamnosus was studied for its effects on skin pigmentation through in vitro and in vitro experiments. In the in vitro experiments, we found that the fermented broth of ChiBai (FB-ChiBai) suppressed alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F0 murine melanoma cells without any cytotoxicity at a concentration of 0.5%. FB-ChiBai significantly attenuated melanin production, tyrosinase activities and melanogenesis-related signaling pathways. Treatment with FB-ChiBai also reduced the nuclear translocation and promoter binding activities of MITF. In the in vivo experiments, FB-ChiBai was topically applied to the dorsal skin of C57BL/6J nude mice and concurrently irradiated with UVB, three times a week for 8 weeks. The results indicated that FB-ChiBai alleviated UVB-induced hyperpigmentation by reducing epidermal hyperplasia and inhibiting the CREB/MITF/tyrosinase pathway. In conclusion, our data indicated that the anti-melanogenic effects of FB-ChiBai are mediated by the inhibition of CREB/MITF/tyrosinase signaling pathway. The findings suggest that FB-ChiBai can protect against UV-B irradiation and that it might be used as an agent in cosmetic products to protect against UVB-induced hyperpigmentation.

Comparison of antiaging, anti-melanogenesis effects, and active components of Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis L.) extracts according to maturity.

In this study, we carried out a comparative evaluation of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis activities of raspberry extracts (Rubus occidentalis L.) according to their stage of ripening (uRo: unripe raspberry, Ro: ripe raspberry), and analyzed the active component (ellagic acid) present in these extracts. Our results showed higher inhibitory effects of the uRo extract in terms of elastase and collagenase activities than Ro extract. In the CCD-986sk cells, uRo extract significantly inhibited MMP-1 activity by 18% and increased the rate of type 1 pro-collagen synthesis by 25%. Besides, treatment with uRo extract significantly inhibited α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Overall, uRo was a more potent mediator of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis effects than Ro extract. Further analysis showed that the functional effects of uRo could be attributed to its 18.5 times higher ellagic acid content than that in Ro extract. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: This study reported the differential effect of the raspberry extracts depending on their stage of ripening. To the best of our knowledge, this was the first study to report the antiaging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-pigmentation effects of the uRo extracts. We showed that the extracts from the uRo have an overall better antiaging and skin-whitening effect than ripe ones. The effects were attributed to high ellagic acid content in uRo. We believed that our study makes a significant contribution to the literature because the outcome of the study has both, cosmetic as well as therapeutic implications.