Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract.

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study.

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

A survey on the cosmetic use of injectable polynucleotide: The pattern of practice among Korean Dermatologists.

BACKGROUND: Skin boosters denote injectables that promote global improvement of the skin which includes skin texture, elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance. Polynucleotide (PN) products have become popular, but there is surprisingly little guidance on their use. We aimed to maximize the safety and efficacy of injectable PN by providing information on their pattern of practice among board-certified dermatologists. METHODS: A total of 235 Korean board-certified dermatologists familiar with skin boosters participated in a survey which questioned the participant's years of practice, selection of skin boosters in one's clinic, and range of lasers and light sources as well as skin care devices that are available. For those who use PN, one was asked to check all its aesthetic indications, mode of delivery, injection depth, treatment interval as well as options for combined therapy. RESULTS: Seventy-one percent of the survey participants had at least 5 years of professional experience as a board-certified dermatologist, and among the different skin boosters, 88% replied that they practiced PN injection. The top six indications for PN were fine lines on the cheek followed by infraorbital fine lines, periorbital fine lines, uneven skin texture, dry skin, and fine lines on the forehead. Many opted for a 33G needle and the serial puncture technique targeting the dermis. A total of three sessions of PN injection spaced 4 weeks apart is most often recommended. 79 percent of PN users blended PN injection with lasers and light therapy with the most popular being radiofrequency (non-invasive, needle RF) and high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU). CONCLUSION: PN is a skin booster which is widely practiced among Korean dermatologists. According to our survey, the best indication of PN is facial fine lines, and as such PN injection is often repeated and combined with a variety of non-surgical rejuvenation procedures. We hope our data help dermatologists better understand and utilize PN injection.

Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 Ginkgo biloba-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents or antioxidants. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel was concerned about the presence of ginkgolic acid in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that 5 Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing; data are insufficient to determine the safety of the remaining 5 ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Efficacy of castor oil cream in treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation: An exploratory single-arm clinical trial.

INTRODUCTION: Infraorbital hyperpigmentation represents one of the most prevalent conditions in cosmetic dermatology. To treat this condition, many patients prefer natural remedies. This study explored the efficacy of topical castor oil cream in treating patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. METHODS: We conducted an exploratory single-arm clinical trial at the Shahid Faghihi Dermatology Clinic and Molecular Dermatology Research Center of Shiraz University of Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran, during 2021-2022. Using the convenience sampling method, we enrolled 25 patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. We instructed the patients to apply topical castor oil cream twice daily for 2 months. The darkness, melanin, and erythema levels were evaluated by VisioFace® 1000 D and SkinColorCatch® devices. We used a visual analog scale to assess skin laxity, wrinkles, and patient satisfaction. Data analysis was done with Stata version 14.2. RESULTS: The data of 22 patients with a mean age of 40.92 ± 7.33 years were analyzed. The VisioFace® scores decreased significantly by the end of the study [right eyes: mean difference (MD): -5.63 (95% CI: -7.12 to -4.15), p < 0.001; left eyes: MD: -5.91 (95% CI: -7.46 to -4.36), p < 0.001]. Moreover, castor oil cream significantly reduced the melanin level, wrinkles, and skin laxity in the infraorbital region (p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: Castor oil cream seems to be an effective alternative for treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation. Randomized clinical trials are needed to confirm our findings.

Antibacterial and antibiofilm effects of Camellia oleifera seed dreg extract and its application in cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetic care products contain a high proportion of water and nutrients. Therefore, preventing bacterial growth is an important issue to ensure product quality and safety. The application of antibacterial natural ingredients derived from plants is considered to have the potential to maintain product quality and reduce the use of chemicals in formulations. Additionally, chemically synthesized antiseptic and antibacterial agents are widely used in the industry at present. However, some preservative ingredients have been reported that may cause skin irritation, redness, allergies, and even dermatitis. AIMS: This study aimed to prepare extract from Camellia oleifera tea seed dregs (CTSD), investigate the antibacterial effects on two pathogenic bacteria and evaluate the product preservative ability. METHODS: Ethanol extraction was prepared and subjected to characterize their triterpenoid contents. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC), and minimum biofilm eradication concentration (MBEC) were determined for Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus. The product's stability and preservative qualities, along with its ability to scavenge free radicals through antioxidant activity, were also assessed. RESULTS: The gram-positive S. aureus showed greater susceptibility to the treatment. In additional, CTSD possessed significant free radical scavenging activity in vitro and cultured normal human skin fibroblast CCD-966SK cells under nontoxic concentration. The challenge test and accelerated storage test confirmed the CTSD containing formulated emulsion is eligible for commercialization. CONCLUSIONS: CTSD has the potential to be developed as an alternative agent to control microbial biofilm formation, or can be used as an adjuvant compound for infectious disease control.

The role of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in promoting skin immunity and its regenerative abilities: Implications for antiaging skincare.

INTRODUCTION: Recent advancements in cosmetic science have ushered in a new era of skincare strategies, with a focus on utilizing natural bioactive ingredients to enhance skin health and combat premature aging. The skin, as the largest organ of human body, provides as a vital protective barrier against external hazards such as environmental pollutions, toxins, and radiation. However, intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including various types of radiation, reduced air quality, and increased exposure to pollutants, lead to an imbalance in the skin's immune system, significantly reducing the skin's ability to regenerate and accelerating skin aging. Therefore, there is an emerging need to develop innovative skincare strategies that could support the skin's immune capacity by strengthening antioxidant protection, skin regeneration, and repair. Plant-derived compounds, along with naturally sourced ingredients, show promise in accelerating wound healing, especially when incorporated into cosmetic formulation. ImmunatuRNA® stands as a prime example of a biologically active complex, uniquely comprising yeast-derived RNA, marine exopolysaccharides, and natural hyaluronic acid, that exhibits high antioxidant activity and exerts beneficial modulatory effects on skin microbiota, thereby positively influencing skin immunity. METHODOLOGY: The main aim of this study was to investigate the potential of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in promoting skin regeneration and reducing signs of skin aging, both through the use of in vitro human skin cultures and the evaluation of clinical trials in healthy volunteers. RESULTS: The results of conducted experimental studies have shown that the ImmunatuRNA® complex demonstrated significant positive effects on the immunity and repair capabilities of the skin, characterized by increased fibroblast proliferation, enhanced glycosaminoglycan synthesis, and reduced oxidative stress. Furthermore, use of the complex also significantly accelerated wound healing following mechanically-induced damage in the keratinocytes, demonstrated as reduction in wound margins measurement, new cell production, and an increase in regeneration speed. In addition, conduced clinical study on healthy human volunteers with various skin types confirmed that use of cosmetic products that incorporate the ImmunatuRNA® complex within the formulation can visibly improve skin condition, appearance, and general health, achieved by increased skin hydration and elasticity, reduced wrinkles, and enhanced skin firmness. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms the usefulness of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in the innovative antiaging cosmetic products that can be suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The inclusion of naturally sourced bioactives, as those found in ImmunatuRNA® complex, represents a promising advancement in holistic natural skincare that consumers appreciate. The active ingredients of the complex support the skin's immunity, fostering its repair and protecting against oxidative damage, thus maintaining skin homeostasis and promoting its regenerative capacity. Further research is necessary to explore the long-term effects of ImmunatuRNA® complex on skin health and its potential applications in innovative skincare formulations.

A botanical reference set illustrating a weight of evidence approach for skin sensitization risk assessment.

Recent years have seen an increase in the use of botanicals and natural substances (BNS) in consumer products such as cosmetics and household care products. Most work conducted to date to assess botanicals for human safety has focused their use as dietary supplements and thus on systemic toxicity. However, the induction of skin sensitization is a possible adverse effect of natural products in particular those that come into skin contact, especially for cosmetics that remain on the skin and are not rinsed off following use. Assessments of BNS ingredients are often challenging for a number of reasons: the BNS are complex mixtures that can be of mostly unknown composition; the composition can be highly variable even within the same plant species and dependent on how processed; the physical form of the BNS raw material can vary from a highly concentrated powdered extract to a liquid extract containing only a small percentage of the BNS; testing of the BNS raw materials in New Approach Methods (NAM) has uncertainty as these methods are often not developed or validated for complex mixtures. In this study, a reference set of 14 selected BNS which span the range of skin sensitization potential was complied. These data were used in a Weight of Evidence (WoE) approach to evaluate their skin sensitization potential with each of the data rich BNS being classified as either having strong evidence of inducing skin sensitization based on human topical use history, animal data, clinical data, composition data and NAM data, or having some but more limited (weak) evidence of inducing skin sensitization, or having strong evidence of no skin sensitization potential. When available data have sufficient potency related information, sensitization potency assessment is also provided based on WoE, classifying these BNS as either strong, moderate, or weak sensitizers, or non-sensitizers. An outline for a BNS skin sensitization risk assessment framework is proposed starting with exposure-based waiving and WoE assessment for higher exposures. In addition to demonstrating the application of the WoE approach, the reference set presented here provides a set of 'data rich' botanicals which cover a range of sensitization potencies that could be used for evaluating existing test methods or aid in the development of new predictive models for skin sensitization.

Safety Assessment of Hops as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (reported functions include antimicrobial agent and hair conditioning agent) and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil (reported function is fragrance). The Panel reviewed the relevant data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. For these ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of 8-prenylnaringenin, ß-myrcene, and quercetin in cosmetics, which could result in estrogenic effects, dermal irritation, and genotoxicity, respectively. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and constituents of concern. The Panel concluded that Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

2022 Annual Report of the National Poison Data System® (NPDS) from America's Poison Centers®: 40th Annual Report.

INTRODUCTION: This is the 40th Annual Report of America's Poison Centers National Poison Data System (NPDS). As of 1 January, 2022, all 55 of the nation's poison centers (PCs) uploaded case data automatically to NPDS. The upload interval was 4.72 [4.40, 9.27] (median [25%, 75%]) minutes, effectuating a near real-time national exposure and information database and surveillance system. METHODS: We analyzed the case data tabulating specific indices from NPDS. The methodology was similar to that of previous years. Where changes were introduced, the differences are identified. Cases with medical outcomes of death were evaluated by a team of medical and clinical toxicologist reviewers using an ordinal scale of 1-6 to assess the Relative Contribution to Fatality (RCF) of the exposure. RESULTS: In 2022, 2,483,183 closed encounters were logged by NPDS: 2,064,875 human exposures, 50,381 animal exposures, 363,099 information requests, 4,790 human confirmed nonexposures, and 38 animal confirmed nonexposures. Total encounters showed a 12.9% decrease from 2021, and human exposure cases decreased by 0.771%, while health care facility (HCF) human exposure cases increased by 0.214%. All information requests decreased by 48.4%, medication identification (Drug ID) requests decreased by 21.2%, and medical information requests showed a 76.92% decrease, although these remain twice the median number before the COVID-19 pandemic. Drug Information requests showed a 52.4% decrease, due to declining COVID-19 vaccine calls to PCs but still comprised 5.55% of all information contacts. Human exposures with less serious outcomes have decreased 1.70% per year since 2008, while those with more serious outcomes (moderate, major or death) have increased 4.41% per year since 2000.Consistent with the previous year, the top 4 substance classes most frequently involved in all human exposures were analgesics (11.5%), household cleaning substances (7.23%), antidepressants (5.61%), and cosmetics/personal care products (5.23%). Antihistamines (4.81%) replaced sedatives/hypnotics/antipsychotics as the 5th substance class. As a class, analgesic exposures increased most rapidly, by 1,514 cases/year (3.26%/year) over the past 10 years for cases with more serious outcomes.The top 5 most common exposures in children age 5 years or less were household cleaning substances (10.3%), analgesics (9.54%), cosmetics/personal care products (9.49%), dietary supplements/herbals/homeopathic (6.65%), and foreign bodies/toys/miscellaneous (6.61%). NPDS documented 3,255 human exposures resulting in death; 2,622 (80.6%) of these were judged as related (RCF of 1-Undoubtedly responsible, 2-Probably responsible, or 3-Contributory). CONCLUSIONS: These data support the continued value of PC expertise and the need for specialized medical toxicology information to manage the increasing number of more serious exposures. Unintentional and intentional exposures continue to be a significant cause of morbidity and mortality in the US. The near real-time status of NPDS represents a national public health resource to collect and monitor US exposure cases and information requests. The continuing mission of NPDS is to provide a nationwide infrastructure for surveillance for all types of exposures (e.g., foreign body, infectious, venomous, chemical agent, or commercial product), and the identification and tracking of significant public health events. NPDS is a model system for the near real-time surveillance of national and global public health.

Amended Safety Assessment of Mentha piperita (Peppermint)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of M piperita (peppermint)-derived ingredients. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituent(s) of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that M piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Extract, Leaf, and leaf-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing, and that the available data are insufficient for determining that M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, and M piperita (Peppermint) Meristem Cell Culture are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Plants with cosmetic uses.

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 2004, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 2001, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use, and confirmed that Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report, provided that established and imposed limits on gossypol, heavy metals, and pesticide concentrations are not exceeded.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIF: Le sisal est une fibre rigide courante produite dans le monde entier, correspondant à environ 70 % de la production commerciale de toutes les fibres de ce type. Les fibres sont extraites des feuilles d'Agave sisalana dont environ 4 % du poids est obtenu, les 96 % restants étant considérés comme des résidus du procédé de l'industrie du sisal. L'objectif de ce projet était d'obtenir un extrait du résidu d'A. sisalana enrichi en polyphénols par extraction assistée par ultrasons (EAU), de le caractériser chimiquement, d'évaluer l'activité antioxydante in vitro et de développer des formulations photoprotectrices sûres et stables pour une application future dans des préparations cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'extraction ultrasonique de la matière végétale solide a été effectuée avec une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (v/v). L'extrait a été chimiquement caractérisé avec un équipement de chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance associé à un réseau moléculaire (RM) classique, puis évalué pour l'activité antioxydante in vitro par différentes méthodologies. Dix formulations ont été préparées en variant les concentrations des composants et le temps de cisaillement. L'extrait de sisal à 1,0 % a été incorporé dans les formulations les plus stables et la stabilité préliminaire et accélérée a été évaluée. La sécurité d'emploi des émulsions a été étudiée en évaluant l'irritabilité et la sensibilisation cutanées accumulées primaires et l'étude clinique dermatologique de la phototoxicité et de la photosensibilisation. Le facteur de protection solaire in vivo, le facteur de protection UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et la protection contre la lumière visible et bleue ont été déterminées pour les formulations photoprotectrices contenant ou non l'extrait qui étaient stables après 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: L'extraction par ultrasons utilisant une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (EH 50) comme véhicule d'extraction a menée au meilleur rendement. L'extrait a présenté une concentration de composés phénoliques (77,93 mg d'EAG/g) et une activité antioxydante in vitro. Les émulsions sans et avec 1,0 % d'extrait de sisal sont restées stables et sans danger. L'ajout de l'extrait à la formulation photoprotectrice a statistiquement augmenté le SPF par rapport à la formulation sans extrait et a offert une protection contre les rayonnements UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et l'absorption de la lumière visible et bleue. CONCLUSION: D'après ces résultats, les résidus solides d'A. sisalana peuvent être indiqués comme composant des formulations cosmétiques photoprotectrices et antioxydantes.

Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE: The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics. METHODS: Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed. RESULTS: The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: L'industrie du vin génère de grandes quantités de sous-produits présentant une composition remarquablement précieuse en matière de phytochimie. Le procédé susceptible d'augmenter significativement la teneur en composés bioactifs est la fermentation par la levure et d'autres micro-organismes. Cette étude présente pour la première fois une évaluation du potentiel de l'extrait de rafle de raisin et de ses ferments réalisés à l'aide du consortium Scoby lors de l'utilisation en matière première pour améliorer les propriétés de soin cutané des cosmétiques du visage. MÉTHODES: La fermentation des rafles de raisin a été réalisée à l'aide du consortium Scoby pendant 10 et 20 jours. L'activité antioxydante et la composition chimique des extraits non fermentés et fermentés a été analysée en mettant l'accent sur les substances biologiquement actives. En outre, l'évaluation a également porté sur l'influence de l'ajout des ferments obtenus aux crèmes cosmétiques types sur l'hydratation, la perte d'eau transépidermique et le pH cutané. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats obtenus ont révélé que l'extrait de rafles et ses ferments représentaient une source riche en composés phénoliques et montraient une activité antioxydante ; les valeurs les plus élevées des extraits étant observées au 20 -ème jour de fermentation. En outre, l'ajout de l'extrait et du ferment à la crème entraîne un effet positif sur l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la perte d'eau transépidermique. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les extraits de rafles représentent une source prospective de composés actifs et peuvent constituer des principes actifs précieux pour l'industrie cosmétique. Il est possible d'utiliser des extraits non fermentés et fermentés dans les formulations cosmétiques hydratantes et pour compléter le traitement des peaux sèches et sensibles.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging. AIMS: The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials. METHODS: We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms. RESULTS: The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1ß, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo. CONCLUSION: The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.