The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Antibacterial and antibiofilm effects of Camellia oleifera seed dreg extract and its application in cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetic care products contain a high proportion of water and nutrients. Therefore, preventing bacterial growth is an important issue to ensure product quality and safety. The application of antibacterial natural ingredients derived from plants is considered to have the potential to maintain product quality and reduce the use of chemicals in formulations. Additionally, chemically synthesized antiseptic and antibacterial agents are widely used in the industry at present. However, some preservative ingredients have been reported that may cause skin irritation, redness, allergies, and even dermatitis. AIMS: This study aimed to prepare extract from Camellia oleifera tea seed dregs (CTSD), investigate the antibacterial effects on two pathogenic bacteria and evaluate the product preservative ability. METHODS: Ethanol extraction was prepared and subjected to characterize their triterpenoid contents. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC), and minimum biofilm eradication concentration (MBEC) were determined for Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus. The product's stability and preservative qualities, along with its ability to scavenge free radicals through antioxidant activity, were also assessed. RESULTS: The gram-positive S. aureus showed greater susceptibility to the treatment. In additional, CTSD possessed significant free radical scavenging activity in vitro and cultured normal human skin fibroblast CCD-966SK cells under nontoxic concentration. The challenge test and accelerated storage test confirmed the CTSD containing formulated emulsion is eligible for commercialization. CONCLUSIONS: CTSD has the potential to be developed as an alternative agent to control microbial biofilm formation, or can be used as an adjuvant compound for infectious disease control.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging. AIMS: The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials. METHODS: We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms. RESULTS: The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1ß, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo. CONCLUSION: The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component.

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 µg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 µg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Applications of Essential Oils and Plant Extracts in Different Industries.

Essential oils (EOs) and plant extracts are sources of beneficial chemical compounds that have potential applications in medicine, food, cosmetics, and the agriculture industry. Plant medicines were the only option for preventing and treating mankind's diseases for centuries. Therefore, plant products are fundamental sources for producing natural drugs. The extraction of the EOs is the first important step in preparing these compounds. Modern extraction methods are effective in the efficient development of these compounds. Moreover, the compounds extracted from plants have natural antimicrobial activity against many spoilage and disease-causing bacteria. Also, the use of plant compounds in cosmetics and hygiene products, in addition to their high marketability, has been helpful for many beauty problems. On the other hand, the agricultural industry has recently shifted more from conventional production systems to authenticated organic production systems, as consumers prefer products without any pesticide and herbicide residues, and certified organic products command higher prices. EOs and plant extracts can be utilized as ingredients in plant antipathogens, biopesticides, and bioherbicides for the agricultural sector. Considering the need and the importance of using EOs and plant extracts in pharmaceutical and other industries, this review paper outlines the different aspects of the applications of these compounds in various sectors.

Cosmetic Application of Cyanobacteria Extracts with a Sustainable Vision to Skincare: Role in the Antioxidant and Antiaging Process.

Nature-based and sustainably sourced cosmetics have been dominating the area of skincare products worldwide. Due to their antioxidant and antiaging properties, compounds from cyanobacteria, such as carotenoids and phycobiliproteins, may replace synthetic ingredients in cosmetic formulations and may be used in products such as sunscreens, skincare creams, and makeup. In this study, we evaluated the potential of acetonic and aqueous extracts from cyanobacteria strains of the genera Cyanobium and Leptothoe and from strains within Synechococcales and Oscillatoriales orders, for use in cosmetics. Extractions were sequentially performed with acetone and water. Extracts were firstly analyzed for their toxicity to keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells (HaCAT, 3T3L1 and hCMEC/D3, respectively). The non-cytotoxic extracts were characterized in terms of total proteins, carotenoids, chlorophyll, phenols, phycobiliproteins, and analyzed for their antioxidant potential against the superoxide anion radical (O2•−), and for their ability to inhibit key enzymes associated with the skin aging process. Aqueous extracts were richer in total proteins and phycobiliproteins. The aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 showed the highest value for total proteins (760.81 and 695.25 µg BSA mL−1dry extract, respectively) and the best values regarding O2•− scavenging (IC50 = 63.24 and 112.18 µg mL−1dry extract, respectively) with a significant negative correlation observed (p < 0.01). Moreover, aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 inhibited hyaluronidase, (IC50 of 483.86 and 645.06 µg mL−1dry extract, respectively), with a significant negative correlation with total proteins (p < 0.05), pointing out the contribution of these compounds to the biological activities observed. Acetonic extracts were richer in carotenoids and phenols. Zeaxanthin and ß-carotene were predominant among all strains, being present in higher amount in Cyanobium sp. LEGE 07175 (53.08 µg mg−1) and Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 (47.89 µg mg−1), respectively. The same strains also showed the highest values for collagenase inhibition at 750 µg mL−1dry extract (32.88 and 36.61%, respectively). Furthermore, Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 exhibited the lowest IC50 value for tyrosinase inhibition (465.92 µg mL−1dry extract) and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 presented the best values for elastase inhibition (IC50 of 380.50 and IC25 of 51.43 µg mL−1dry extract). In general, cyanobacteria extracts demonstrated potential for being used for antiaging purposes, with aqueous extracts being more efficient at free radicals scavenging and acetonic ones at avoiding degradation of dermal matrix components.

An In Vivo Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of Blue Shark (Prionace glauca) Cartilage Collagen as a Cosmetic.

The "blue shark", Prionace glauca (class: Chondrichthyes), is a pelagic shark species commonly found in tropical and temperate oceans. This shark is mainly sold in Asian countries as food and as traditional Chinese medicine. According to the Red List of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, P. glauca is classified as low-risk to near endangered. P. glauca cartilage contains collagen type II, which makes it suitable as a bioactive ingredient in cosmeceutical products. This study evaluated the effects of a gel containing various concentrations (0.125-5%) of lyophilized hydrolyzed P. glauca cartilage on the human inner wrist skin compared to a placebo (base). A skin properties evaluation test was conducted before and after applying various concentrations (0.125-5%) of the P. glauca cartilage gel for 10 and 20 min on the inner wrists of participants using a skin analyzer that determined the moisture level, oil level, texture level, complexion level, and the 3D level. Adding lyophilized hydrolyzed shark cartilage (LHSC) significantly improved the moisture, texture, and complexion of the skin while controlling oil and providing a wrinkle-smoothing effect. The result indicated that LHSC formulations were prepared at different concentrations, and they had significantly enhanced effects on skin hydration and elasticity (texture) and the smoothing of wrinkles (3D level). The LHSC also effectively controlled oil secretion and the complexion.

Molecular Action Mechanism of Coixol from Soft-Shelled Adlay on Tyrosinase: The Future of Cosmetics.

Coix lacryma-jobi var. ma-yuen L. Gramineae is widely cultivated in Taiwan. Literature regarding the molecular action mechanism of coixol on tyrosinase and the application of coicis seed extracts to the processing of facial masks is still lacking. Solvent extractability analysis revealed that most of the polyphenolics in coicis seeds were water soluble (3.17 ± 0.12 to 3.63 ± 0.07 µg/mLGAE). In contrast, the methanolic extract contained the most flavonoids (0.06 ± 0.00~0.26 ± 0.03 µg/mL QE) and coixol (11.43 ± 0.13~12.83 ± 0.14 µg/mL), showing potent antioxidant capability. Additionally, the contents of coixenolide (176.77 ± 5.91 to 238.60 ± 0.21 µg/g), phytosterol (52.45 ± 2.05 to 58.23 ± 1.14 mg/g), and polysaccharides (3.42 ± 0.10 to 4.41 ± 0.10 mg/g) were rather high. The aqueous extract (10 µg/mL) and the ethanolic extract (1 mg/mL) showed no cytotoxicity to B16F10 melanocytes. More attractively, the ethanolic extract at 1 mg/mL caused 48.4% inhibition of tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes, and 50.7% on human tyrosinase (hTyr) fragment 369-377. Conclusively, the coicis seed extracts containing abundant nutraceuticals with promising anti-hTyr activity and moisturizing capability can serve as good ingredients for facial mask processing.

Novel nanotechnological approaches for treatment of skin-aging.

One of the essential organs and protective barricades, the skin, needs to be taken care of early. Skin is affected by several intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and despite their morphological and pathological differences, they have many molecular similarities. As of today, various mechanisms and theories have been recommended for aging, such as cellular anility, reduced proliferative tendency, reduction in length of telomere, mutations in DNA, theory of free radical generation, and many others. In today's society, skin health is often considered an important indicator of health, which has led to an increased demand for anti-aging products. However, numerous conventional cosmetics and phytocompounds (curcumin, Vitamin E, resveratrol) utilized in anti-aging products have inimical physical and chemical attributes, including insufficient chemical stability and inadequate skin penetration bound their effectuality after topical administration. So recently, new novel nanotechnological approaches for preventing skin aging, such as liposomes, niosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, transferosomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, and carbon nanotubes, are being used. Hence, the field of cosmeceutical nanomaterials is rapidly evolving, and we can look forward to seeing a variety of innovative nanotechnology-based cosmetic products be a game-changer for this multi-million anti-aging cosmetic industry.

Exploring compounds to be used as cosmetic agents that activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor alpha.

OBJECTIVE: The human epidermis is formed by the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes adjacent to the basement membrane. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is equipped with a barrier function that prevents water evaporation, and intercellular lipids play an important role in this barrier function. When the barrier is functioning normally, evaporation is prevented; however, when barrier function is impaired, moisture evaporates, resulting in dry and rough skin. Therefore, maintenance of normal barrier function is critical for maintaining normal skin function. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α (PPARα) is mainly not only involved in lipid metabolism in the liver but is also expressed in the epidermis and is involved in inducing keratinocyte differentiation, promoting lipid production, maintaining barrier function and suppressing skin inflammation. Hence, compounds that activate PPARα are expected to control skin function. Therefore, we identified PPARα activators from among extracts of natural resources that have been approved for use in humans and analysed the effects of these extracts on skin function. METHODS: First, extracts of 474 natural resources were screened using a PPARα activator screening cell line independently constructed in our laboratory. Next, reporter assays were performed using the Gal4-chimera system to evaluate whether these extracts act as ligands for PPARα. We then analysed their effect on primary normal human epidermal keratinocyte cells by using real-time RT-PCR. Finally, we evaluated PPARα activation effect by the combination of these extracts. RESULTS: We identified 36 extracts having the effect of activating PPARα. In particular, #419, a Typha angustifolia spike extract, showed concentration-dependent transcriptional activation through PPARα-LBD and was considered to be likely to contain a compound that is a ligand of PPARα. #419 increased the expression of PPARα target genes and genes related to skin function in primary cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the use of #419 in combination with nine extracts increased PPAR activity more than twice as much as #419 alone treatment. CONCLUSIONS: These results showed that the reporter cell line could be useful for discovering extracts of natural resources and that the identified Typha angustifolia spike extract could be used in cosmetics that activate PPARα, which expected to improve skin function.

OBJECTIF: L'épiderme humain se forme grâce à la prolifération et à la différenciation des kératinocytes adjacents à la membrane basale. La couche externe, dite « couche cornée ¼, possède une fonction barrière qui empêche l'évaporation de l'eau, dans laquelle les lipides intercellulaires jouent un rôle important. Lorsque la barrière fonctionne normalement, l'évaporation est évitée ; mais lorsqu'elle est altérée, l'évaporation a lieu et la peau, privée d'hydratation, devient sèche et rêche. Par conséquent, il est capital de maintenir cette fonction barrière normale pour que la peau conserve son fonctionnement normal. Le récepteur alpha activé par proliférateurs de peroxysomes (PPARα) intervient surtout non seulement dans le métabolisme lipidique du foie, mais également dans l'épiderme ; il joue en effet un rôle dans l'induction de la différenciation des kératinocytes, la promotion de la production lipidique, le maintien de la fonction barrière et la suppression de l'inflammation de l'épiderme. Par conséquent, les activateurs du PPAR-α devraient être déterminants pour une bonne fonction cutanée. Nous avons donc identifié des activateurs du PPAR-α parmi des extraits de ressources naturelles dont l'utilisation chez l'homme est approuvée, et nous avons analysé les effets de ces extraits sur la fonction cutanée. MÉTHODES: Tout d'abord, des extraits de 474 ressources naturelles ont été sélectionnés à l'aide d'une lignée cellulaire de détection des activateurs du PPAR-α, construite indépendamment dans notre laboratoire. Ensuite, des tests de gènes rapporteurs ont été effectués à l'aide du système Gal4-chimera pour voir si ces extraits jouaient le rôle de ligands pour le PPAR-α. Nous avons ensuite analysé leur effet sur les cellules kératinocytaires épidermiques humaines normales primaires par RT-PCR en temps réel. Enfin, nous avons évalué l'effet d'activation du PPAR-α par l'association de ces extraits. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons identifié 36 extraits ayant pour effet d'activer le PPAR-α. En particulier, le n° 419, un extrait d'épi de Typha angustifolia, a montré une activation transcriptionnelle dépendante de la concentration par le PPAR-α-LBD et a été considéré comme susceptible de contenir un composé qui est un ligand du PPAR-α. Le n° 419 a augmenté l'expression des gènes cibles du PPAR-α et des gènes liés au fonctionnement de la peau dans les kératinocytes épidermiques humains primaires mis en culture. Enfin, l'utilisation du n° 419 en association avec neuf extraits a augmenté de plus du double l'activité du PPAR par rapport au traitement par le n° 419 seul. CONCLUSIONS: Ces résultats ont montré que la lignée cellulaire rapporteuse pourrait être utile pour découvrir des extraits de ressources naturelles et que l'extrait d'épi de Typha angustifolia identifié pourrait être utilisé dans des cosmétiques qui activent le PPAR-α, ce qui devrait améliorer la fonction cutanée.

A Potential Valorization Strategy of Wine Industry by-Products and Their Application in Cosmetics-Case Study: Grape Pomace and Grapeseed.

Grape pomace and grapeseed are agro-industrial by-products, whose inadequate treatment generates socioeconomic and environmental concerns. Nevertheless, it is possible to valorize them by extracting their bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants (phenolic compounds), vitamin E and fatty acids. The bioactive compounds were extracted using solid-liquid extraction. The yields for phenolic compounds were 18.4 ± 0.4% for grape pomace, and 17.4 ± 0.4%, for grapeseed. For the oil, the yields were 13.3 ± 0.2% and 14.5 ± 0.3% for grape pomace and grapeseed. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by the assay with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and showed that phenolic extract has higher antioxidant capacity than the oils. Grape pomace and grapeseed extracts exhibit, correspondingly, values of 90.8 ± 0.8 and 87.5 ± 0.5 of DPPH inhibition and IC50 of 48.9 ± 0.5 and 55.9 ± 0.7 µgextract·mLDPPH-1. The antimicrobial capacity was assessed by the disk diffusion test, and revealed that, phenolic extracts inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The obtained extracts were incorporated in 10 face cream formulations, with slight modifications in quantities of formulation stabilizers. Their stability was studied for 35 days, and this revealed the possibility of incorporating extracts and oils obtained from by-products as antioxidants in cosmetics, and replacing synthetic ones. As a future recommendation, microencapsulation of the extracts should be performed, in order to increase their stability.

Skin occlusive performance: Sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.

BACKGROUND: The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic, and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM: This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD: The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 min, 2 and 6 h of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6 h time course. CONCLUSION: Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients, and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 min post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents.

BACKGROUND: Proteolytic enzymes are biological catalysts that can compose cosmetic formulations: These enzymes are capable of mimicking the desquamation process of the skin, acting as exfoliants. Although enzymatic exfoliation is not new and commercial products were easily found, there is a lack of scientific literature about this topic. METHODS: A search was carried out until 2021 in different scientific databases (Web of Science, Scopus, Scielo, PubMed, etc.). In vitro and in vivo studies that evaluated the application of enzymes aiming to exfoliate the skin or with a similar cosmetic or dermatological application were selected. RESULTS: Only 11 articles were found, and, among them, few studies applied enzymes as exfoliants in clinical trials. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that the enzymes can exfoliate the skin and improve some desired characteristics of the organ. Papain, bromelain, keratinases, and microbial proteases are some enzymes already applied as exfoliants. The study of pH, temperature, and stabilization of the enzymes in cosmetic formulations were also demonstrated to be important aspects to be evaluated, principally in preventing loss of enzyme activity and possible allergens/irritations on the skin. CONCLUSION: This literature review showed the main aspects that should be evaluated before considering producing or applying proteolytic enzymes in exfoliation products/procedures. The use of enzymatic exfoliation has potential in the cosmetic industry. Hence, further robust in vivo studies are needed before the enzymatic exfoliation can be recommended with safety as a treatment modality in the current conditions.

Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts.

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

An Overview to the Health Benefits of Seaweeds Consumption.

Currently, seaweeds are gaining major attention due to the benefits they give to our health. Recent studies demonstrate the high nutritional value of seaweeds and the powerful properties that seaweeds' bioactive compounds provide. Species of class Phaeophyceae, phylum Rhodophyta and Chlorophyta possess unique compounds with several properties that are potential allies of our health, which make them valuable compounds to be involved in biotechnological applications. In this review, the health benefits given by consumption of seaweeds as whole food or by assumption of bioactive compounds trough natural drugs are highlighted. The use of seaweeds in agriculture is also highlighted, as they assure soils and crops free from chemicals; thus, it is advantageous for our health. The addition of seaweed extracts in food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and industrial companies will enhance the production and consumption/usage of seaweed-based products. Therefore, there is the need to implement the research on seaweeds, with the aim to identify more bioactive compounds, which may assure benefits to human and animal health.

'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation.

OBJECTIVE: The growing consumers' preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. METHODS: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis - DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within 'design of experiments' approach was employed. The general skin performance - preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. RESULTS: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. CONCLUSION: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.

OBJECTIF: Les préférences et les préoccupations croissantes des consommateurs concernant le vieillissement sain, l'apparence jeune de la peau, la protection de l'environnement et la durabilité ont déclenché une tendance toujours croissante vers des produits anti-âge naturels, respectueux de l'environnement et éthiques. En conséquence, ce document décrit le plan et l'évaluation de nouveaux sérums d'émulsion sûrs, efficaces et de haute qualité, entièrement basés sur des ingrédients d'origine naturelle, destinés à améliorer les ridules et rides du visage. MÉTHODES: Des formulations modèles stabilisées par un émulsifiant mixte glycolipide innovant (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglycéryl-6 laurate) et contenant de l'extrait d'Acmella oleracea comme anti-vieillissement actif de modèle, ont été préparées par un procédé à froid et ont été pleinement évaluées en ce qui concerne leur comportement rhéologique (tests de rotation continue et examens oscillatoires) et stabilité physique (analyse thermomécanique dynamique - DMTA). Pour étudier et optimiser l'influence simultanée de facteurs de formulation variés (concentrations d'émollients et d'émulsifiants) sur les attributs rhéologiques critiques des sérums développés, une conception composite centrale dans le cadre d'une approche « conception d'expériences ¼ a été employée. Les performances cutanées générales - sécurité préliminaire et efficacité antirides du sérum du modèle sélectionné ont été évaluées chez des sujets humains volontaires, en utilisant plusieurs techniques de bio-ingénierie objectives et non invasives. RÉSULTATS: La caractérisation rhéologique a révélé un comportement favorable du débit de cisaillement avec une limite de rendement et une domination du caractère élastique (modulus de stockage G' > module de perte G) dans les balayages d'amplitude et de fréquence, qui, avec un changement structurel relativement faible obtenu dans l'analyse DMTA, a indiqué des propriétés rhéologiques et de stabilité satisfaisante globales des sérums. A partir de l'espace de conception établi, et en tenant compte du coût de composition et de l'empreinte carbone, un sérum modèle prometteur (viscosité apparente souhaitée/optimale, seuil de rendement et facteur de perte, changement structurel assez faible et constant), contenant 15 % d'émollients et 1 % d'émulsifiant, a été choisi pour les évaluations in vivo. Le dépistage des effets d'irritation cutanée a révélé l'absence d'irritation potentielle du sérum expérimental, suggérant une tolérance cutanée/une sécurité préliminaire globalement satisfaisante. L'analyse de l'image de la réplique cutanée en silicone a démontré une réduction/amélioration notable de tous les paramètres de rides cutanées mesurés après seulement deux semaines d'application du sérum test dans les zones périorbitaires et péribuccales, indiquant ses effets rapides et bénéfiques sur les lignes d'expression et les rides du visage. CONCLUSION: Au total, les résultats corroborent le potentiel prometteur du sérum d'émulsion à base d'extrait d'Acmella oleracea développé comme un produit anti-rides naturel sûr, efficace et non invasif.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics.

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance.

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R.platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1-R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.