Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil: Provenience and Authenticity Criteria.

In this work, fatty-acid profiles, including trans fatty acids, in combination with chemometric tools, were applied as a determinant of purity (i.e., adulteration) and provenance (i.e., geographical origin) of cosmetic grade argan oil collected from different regions of Morocco in 2017. The fatty acid profiles obtained by gas chromatography (GC) showed that oleic acid (C18:1) is the most abundant fatty acid, followed by linoleic acid (C18:2) and palmitic acid (C16:0). The content of trans-oleic and trans-linoleic isomers was between 0.02% and 0.03%, while trans-linolenic isomers were between 0.06% and 0.09%. Discriminant analysis (DA) and orthogonal projection to latent structure-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) were performed to discriminate between argan oils from Essaouira, Taroudant, Tiznit, Chtouka-Aït Baha and Sidi Ifni. The correct classification rate was highest for argan oil from the Chtouka-Aït Baha province (90.0%) and the lowest for oils from the Sidi Ifni province (14.3%), with an overall correct classification rate of 51.6%. Pairwise comparison using OPLS-DA could predictably differentiate (≥0.92) between the geographical regions with the levels of stearic (C18:0) and arachidic (C20:0) fatty acids accounting for most of the variance. This study shows the feasibility of implementing authenticity criteria for argan oils by including limit values for trans-fatty acids and the ability to discern provenance using fatty acid profiling.

[Mandatory regulations and standards regarding cosmetic botanic ingredients in major countries and regions].

Cosmetics containing botanic ingredients have been used from thousands of years up to now in China. Because of the consumers' demand for health and beauty,the number of products about " botanic" have been growing rapidly in the cosmetics market,which has played an important role in upgrading the industry and enhancing the international competitiveness nowadays. Therefore,to strengthen the management about used botanic raw materials in cosmetics products and revise the application regulation of new raw materials has become an important work to ensure product quality,promote the healthy and stable development of cosmetic business. The article summarizes the related mandatory regulations and standards about botanic ingredients which used as activity function in major cosmetic business countries or regions. Furthermore,the information of botanic ingredients commonly used in non-special cosmetics notification and special cosmetic registration system were described to expect the better application and development.

Mandatory regulations and standards regarding cosmetic botanic ingredients in major countries and regions / 中国中药杂志

Cosmetics containing botanic ingredients have been used from thousands of years up to now in China. Because of the consumers' demand for health and beauty,the number of products about " botanic" have been growing rapidly in the cosmetics market,which has played an important role in upgrading the industry and enhancing the international competitiveness nowadays. Therefore,to strengthen the management about used botanic raw materials in cosmetics products and revise the application regulation of new raw materials has become an important work to ensure product quality,promote the healthy and stable development of cosmetic business. The article summarizes the related mandatory regulations and standards about botanic ingredients which used as activity function in major cosmetic business countries or regions. Furthermore,the information of botanic ingredients commonly used in non-special cosmetics notification and special cosmetic registration system were described to expect the better application and development.

Safety Assessment of Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics.

This is a safety assessment of alumina and aluminum hydroxide as used in cosmetics. Alumina functions as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking agent, bulking agent, and opacifying agent. Aluminum hydroxide functions as a buffering agent, corrosion inhibitor, and pH adjuster. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) evaluated the safe use of alumina in several medical devices and aluminum hydroxide in over-the-counter drugs, which included a review of human and animal safety data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered the FDA evaluations as part of the basis for determining the safety of these ingredients as used in cosmetics. Alumina used in cosmetics is essentially the same as that used in medical devices. This safety assessment does not include metallic or elemental aluminum as a cosmetic ingredient. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that alumina and aluminum hydroxide are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Achillea millefolium as Used in Cosmetics.

Cosmetic ingredients derived from Achillea millefolium function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents-miscellaneous, skin-conditioning agents-humectants, and fragrance ingredients. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed relevant animal and human data to determine their safety in cosmetics and raised concerns about cosmetics containing linalool, thujone, quercetin, hydroquinone, or α-peroxyachifolid. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these components and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Additionally, industry was advised to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that achillea millefolium extract, achillea millefolium flower extract, and achillea millefolium flower/leaf/stem extract are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be nonsensitizing.

Methods for the assessment of the efficacy of products and slimming treatments for cellulite according to the Italian Interdisciplinary Group for the standardization of efficacy tests on cosmetic products.

Cellulite is a very common skin alteration with a complex pathogenesis; different degrees of severity of cellulite can be observed in most part of people after puberty, and numerous cosmetic or more invasive treatments have been proposed, with variable efficacy. Since reproducible methods of evaluation of the effectiveness of cellulite treatments are lacking, the purpose of our group was to define and set general testing principles for evaluating the efficacy of slimming products and treatments/remodeling methods for cellulite, to achieve a delineation of reliable and reproducible research steps following a well-designed and scientifically valid methodology. After a careful review of literature and textbooks and according to personal experience, we defined assessment protocols based on clinical and instrumental tools. In order to make studies reliable, reproducible and safe, a protocol standardization is needed. The sponsor is responsible for assuring quality and information concerning the product under investigation; moreover, investigators should be experienced on cellulite evaluation and treatment, and, finally, the duration and modalities of application of the product should be specified. A treated VS non treated area comparison can be performed, to evaluate the severity of cellulite and the clinical outcomes of the treatment. Besides clinical evaluation, instrumental methods should always be implemented to provide objective data for treatment outcome.

Can the dietary element content of virgin argan oils really be used for adulteration detection?

Levels of eight dietary elements were assessed by ICP-AES in virgin edible and beauty argan oil samples prepared from four remote locations of the argan forest, and over a three-year period. The data showed sufficiently little variability to assess that all argan oil samples present, in terms of dietary elements, a similar composition, independently from the tree location within the argan forest. Therefore, adulteration detection by trace element analysis in edible and beauty argan oil is a method that can be generalised.

Prioritising chemicals used in personal care products in China for environmental risk assessment: application of the RAIDAR model.

China represents a significant market for the sale of personal care products (PCPs). Given the continuous emission of hundreds of chemicals used in PCPs to waste water and the aquatic environment after regular use, methods for prioritising the environmental risk assessment for China are needed. In an effort to assess the prioritisation of chemicals used in PCPs in China, we have identified the chemical ingredients used in 2500 PCPs released to the Chinese market in 2009, and estimated the annual emission of these chemicals. The physical-chemical property data for these substances have been estimated and used as model inputs in the RAIDAR model. In general, the RAIDAR model provides an overall assessment of the multimedia fate of chemicals, and provides a holistic approach for prioritising chemical ingredients. The prioritisation exercise conducted in this study is shown to be strongly influenced by loss processes, such as the removal efficiencies of WWT plants and biotransformation.

Sustainability of cosmetic products in Brazil.

BACKGROUND: The most recent research in the area of cosmetics to sustainability has focused on obtaining formulations rich in nontraditional oils and butters from seeds and fruits native to Brazilian tropical flora. These have contributed to aggregate value for the raw materials and involvement of small farms forming rural production in Brazil, since the plants are cultivated in preservation areas sponsored by companies who are partners in the Government Program for Brazilian Sustainability. Given that the oils extracted from seeds have the potential to replace these cutaneous constituents, it has been verified that new products of strong commercial impact show an increasing tendency to incorporate in their formulas the oils of plants grown in Brazilian soil.

[Review of current situations and prospects of research and development on traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics].

The definition, history, classification and advantages of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics (TCMC) were summarized in this article. The domestic and foreign current situations of research and development of TCMC were particularly introduced. The application and authorization of TCMC in China were also briefly mentioned. Finally, the developmental prospects of TCMC in China were discussed in two aspects of the strategy of the R&D and the problems facing when it was marketed.

The evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions aging process using classical techniques and a new method: FTIR.

The purpose of this paper is to show how the utilization of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy can be interesting in stability studying of cosmetic or pharmaceutical "oil in water" (O/W) emulsions. In this study temperature storage tests were performed to accelerate the aging process and evaluate the stability of five emulsions. Emulsions were analyzed by FTIR and classical methods (conductivity, viscosity, pH, texture analysis) in order to determine a method that would enable predicting the emulsion's stability. During the aging process, modifications of chemical functions are measured by FTIR (using spectrometric indices), such modifications included: a decrease of unsaturation index, an increase of carbonyl index and a broadening of the carbonyl band. This band was deconvoluted to evaluate the contribution of different species in the broadening phenomenon, which seems to be caused by the appearance of free fatty acids. Conductimetry seems to be the most sensitive technique to assess physical modifications during emulsion's aging. Concerning the most unstable emulsions, a progressive increasing of conductivity was observed several months before the emulsion destabilizes. Consequently, FTIR and conductimetry are two complementary techniques. Conductimetry is a useful technique to predict emulsion destabilization while FTIR allows the measurement of chemical modifications and helps to understand the chemical mechanisms which occur during the oxidation.

Strategy to decrease the risk of adverse effects of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products.

In spite of extensive self-regulation of the fragrance industry, fragrance ingredients are still major causes of allergic contact dermatitis. There are indications that the problem is increasing in some countries, and that many nonregulated compounds are involved in the development of allergies. The use of essential oils in fragrance compounds might add both allergenic and carcinogenic compounds to a product and the exact composition of such ingredients is difficult to control. Herein, we propose a simple strategy to decrease the risk of adverse effects of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products. This strategy consists of four major steps: (1) limit the concentration of fragrance compound in the products, (2) follow legislation and guidelines, (3) limit the concentration of a number of well-known sensitizing fragrance chemicals, and (4) limit the concentration of essential oils and materials with unknown composition. The strategy is discussed as an alternative to animal testing and in relation to other more resource-demanding approaches to the same problem.

[Recent developments on the European ban on animal experiments for cosmetics]. / Aktuelle Entwicklungen zum europäischen Tierversuchsverbot für Kosmetika.

For the second time the European Commission has postponed the sales ban on cosmetics products that have been developed and tested in animal experiments now until 2002. In the meantime the Commission wants to adopt the Seventh Amendment of the EU Cosmetics Directive. In its draft the Commission proposes to scrap the sales ban and replace it with an animal testing ban. This change would avoid possible conflicts with the WTO, however, from the animal welfare point of view would result in animal testing moving into third countries instead of avoiding them. This is because cosmetics products tested on animals outside the EU could be sold in the EU without any restrictions. As a consequence this measure would take the pressure from authorities and industry to further develop and adopt alternative methods. Other proposed measures are not acceptable from the animal welfare point of view, e.g. because they contradict Directive 86/609 and would result in a delay of the application of validated alternative methods. The Deutscher Tierschutzbund therefore still demands an immediate and complete sales ban in connection with an animal testing ban within the EU.

Compounding botanicals: a legal perspective.

OBJECTIVE: To describe the effects of the new law, section 503A, "Pharmacy Compounding," of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act on the compounding of drugs, dietary supplements, and cosmetics. DATA SOURCES: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Modernization Act of 1997; Federal, Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act; Code of Federal Regulations; Federal Register; Food and Drug Administration Guidances. DATA SYNTHESIS: Pharmacy compounding, which traditionally is considered part of pharmacy practice and is regulated by the states, has been confused with drug manufacturing, an activity regulated by FDA. Section 503A, "Pharmacy Compounding," was enacted as part of the Food and Drug Administration Modernization Act of 1997 to distinguish compounding from manufacturing. This law addresses the compounding of drug products, but not necessarily the compounding of botanicals, which may be considered dietary supplements, cosmetics, or drugs. CONCLUSION: Section 503A applies to the compounding of products intended for a drug use, but does not apply to compounded products that are intended for dietary supplement or cosmetic use. Compounded dietary supplements and cosmetics must instead adhere to relevant federal requirements, including those for good manufacturing practices and labeling.

Antimicrobial activity of electrochemical silver ions in nonionic surfactant solutions and in model dispersions.

The microbicidal effectiveness against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and Candida albicans of electrochemical silver ions in aqueous solutions containing nonionic surfactants was investigated. From the perspective of the possible use of anodic silver as a preservative in cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations, microbicidal efficacy was also studied in oil/water model dispersions. Surfactants and botanical extracts partially inhibited the microbicidal effectiveness of anodic silver. Nevertheless in all the experimental conditions, silver ions reduced the microbial concentration up to 4 log units of the starting inoculum in less than 6 h. The wide microbicidal spectrum and the high rate of kill of silver ions appear, therefore, attractive enough to suggest a possible utilization of anodic silver as a preserving agent.