The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Regulatory Activities of Extracts from Herb, Leaf and In Vitro Culture of Achillea millefolium (Yarrow).

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC50 values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics.

OBJECTIVE: Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics. METHODS: This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms "coffee" and "skin" in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the "specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations" considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC). RESULTS: Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. CONCLUSION: Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact.

OBJECTIF: Le café est l'une des boissons les plus consommées dans le monde, et sa production et sa consommation génèrent chaque année de grandes quantités de sous-produits. Les sous-produits du café et les grains de café sont riches en composés bioactifs d'une grande valeur commerciale, y compris des applications potentielles en tant qu'ingrédients actifs dans les produits de soins de la peau et les formulations cosmétiques. De plus, il y a eu un intérêt croissant pour l'utilisation d'ingrédients naturels à des fins cosmétiques. Compte tenu de l'importance du café dans l'économie mondiale, de ses constituants chimiques ayant un potentiel d'application cosmétique et dermatologique, et de l'importance des brevets pour l'innovation et le développement technologique, la présente étude visait à examiner les brevets récents concernant l'utilisation du café et des sous-produits du café dans les cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: Cette revue a été réalisée à l'aide d'Espacenet. Les critères d'inclusion suivants ont été établis: les brevets qui incluaient les termes "café" et "peau" dans le titre, l'abrégé et les revendications et appartenaient à la classification A61Q, qui est liée à "l'utilisation spécifique de cosmétiques ou de préparations de toilette similaires" compte tenu de la Classification internationale des brevets ou Classification coopérative des brevets. RÉSULTATS: Considérant les 52 brevets analysés, le grain était le principal moyen d'obtenir des extraits (39), suivi du grain vert (7), du silverskin (3), de la peau et de la pulpe (1), de la pulpe (1) et des grains et des feuilles (1). Les formulations sont principalement destinées à être utilisées dans des zones non spécifiques de la peau (29), des yeux (12), des cheveux du cuir chevelu (9) et de la peau des lèvres (2) avec des revendications anti-âge, hydratantes, protection solaire, croissance des cheveux, antipelliculaire, etc. CONCLUSION: Le café et ses résidus contiennent de grandes quantités de composés phénoliques, de caféine, d'acides gras et d'autres substances connues pour avoir des propriétés biologiques importantes pour la peau. Le café et ses sous-produits sont des ingrédients prometteurs à incorporer dans des formulations topiques, garantissant des bienfaits pour la santé de la peau et réduisant l'impact environnemental.

Quantification of Arbutin in Cosmetics, Drugs and Food Supplements by Hydrophilic-Interaction Chromatography.

Arbutin, the glucoside of hydroquinone, exists in two isomers, α-arbutin and ß-arbutin. The synthetic α isomer is mainly used as a skin brightening agent, while ß-arbutin occurs naturally, for instance in bearberry, and is used in drugs for treatment of lower urinary tract infections and as a food supplement. Since both isomers can be harmful at high concentrations, methods for their quantification are required. Classically they have been determined by reversed-phase chromatography, but separation of both isomers is often unsatisfactory. Here we present a simple and reliable method for quantification of α- and ß-arbutin based on hydrophilic-interaction chromatography. Prior to analysis, interfering compounds that would frequently be present in cosmetics and drugs, particularly biopolymers, were efficiently removed by precipitation with acetonitrile. In this paper, for separation, a Cyclobond I 2000 5 µm 250 × 4.6 mm column was employed as stationary phase and acetonitrile/water 92/8 (v/v) was used as an eluent at a flow rate of 0.8 mL min−1. For quantification, a UV detector operating at 284 nm was applied. Although analysis took less than 10 min, baseline separation of α- and ß-arbutin was achieved. The response was highly linear (r > 0.999) and the method had, for both α- and ß-arbutin, a LOD of 0.003% (w/w) and a LOQ of 0.009% (w/w). Moreover, the method showed excellent intra-day and inter-day repeatability with relative standard deviations in the range of 0.5% to 2.3% and 1.0% to 2.2%, respectively, with cosmetics, drugs and food supplements as samples.

Application of Levan-Rich Digestate Extract in the Production of Safe-to-Use and Functional Natural Body Wash Cosmetics.

The study focused on the evaluation of the possibility of using a levan-rich digestate extract in the production of safe and functional body wash cosmetics. Model shower gels were designed and formulated on the basis of raw materials of natural origin. Prepared prototypes contained various extract concentrations (16.7; 33; 50%). A gel without extract was used as a reference. The samples were evaluated for their safety in use and functionality. The results showed that the use of high-concentration levan-rich digestate extract in a shower gel resulted in a significant reduction in the negative impact on the skin. For example, the zein value decreased by over 50% in relation to the preparation without the extract. An over 40% reduction in the emulsifying capacity of hydrophobic substances was also demonstrated, which reduces skin dryness after the washing process. However, the presence of the extract did not significantly affect the parameters related to functionality. Overall, it was indicated that levan-rich digestate extract can be successfully used as a valuable ingredient in natural cleansing cosmetics.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products.

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Recipes of Ancient Egyptian kohls more diverse than previously thought.

Kohl, a dark eye cosmetic, is a well-known part of Ancient Egyptian culture. Modern chemical analyses of kohls have largely found lead-based inorganic constituents, whereas earlier studies argued for a much broader range of constituents. Furthermore, organic materials in kohls remain severely understudied. This raises questions regarding the true diversity of materials and recipes used to produce kohls. We analysed the contents of 11 kohl containers from the Petrie Museum collection in London. The objects selected cover a broad range of times and locations in Egypt. Our multi-analytical approach allowed us to characterise both inorganic and organic components. Our data show that inorganic ingredients in kohl recipes are not only lead-based but also manganese- and silicon-based. Our analyses also revealed that organic ingredients derived from both plant and animal sources were commonly used in kohl recipes and sometimes even represent the main constituent. All these findings point towards more varied recipes than initially thought and significantly shift our understanding of Ancient Egyptian kohls.

A Review on the Main Phytoconstituents, Traditional Uses, Inventions, and Patent Literature of Gum Arabic Emphasizing Acacia seyal.

Acacia seyal is an important source of gum Arabic. The availability, traditional, medicinal, pharmaceutical, nutritional, and cosmetic applications of gum acacia have pronounced its high economic value and attracted global attention. In addition to summarizing the inventions/patents applications related to gum A. seyal, the present review highlights recent updates regarding its phytoconstituents. Traditional, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and medicinal uses with the possible mechanism of actions have been also reviewed. The patent search revealed the identification of 30 patents/patent applications of A. seyal. The first patent related to A. seyal was published in 1892, which was related to its use in the prophylaxis/treatment of kidney and bladder affections. The use of A. seyal to treat cancer and osteoporosis has also been patented. Some inventions provided compositions and formulations containing A. seyal or its ingredients for pharmaceutical and medical applications. The inventions related to agricultural applications, food industry, cosmetics, quality control of gum Arabic, and isolation of some chemical constituents (L-rhamnose and arabinose) from A. seyal have also been summarized. The identification of only 30 patents/patent applications from 1892 to 15 November 2021 indicates a steadily growing interest and encourages developing more inventions related to A. seyal. The authors recommend exploring these opportunities for the benefit of society.

LC-ESI-MS/MS Polyphenolic Profile and In Vitro Study of Cosmetic Potential of Aerva lanata (L.) Juss. Herb Extracts.

The aim of the present study was to investigate the phenolic composition and the biological properties of different Aerva lanata (L). Juss. herb extracts obtained with the use of accelerated solvent extraction (ASE), i.e., a green, ecological method, for cosmetic purposes. All samples exhibited high DPPH• (9.17-119.85 mg TE/g) and ABTS•+ (9.90-107.58 mg TE/g) scavenging activity. The extracts exhibited considerable anti-lipoxygenase (EC50 between 1.14 mg/mL and 3.73 mg/mL) and anti-xanthine oxidase (EC50 between 1.28 mg/mL and 3.72 mg/mL) activities, moderate chelating activity (EC50 between 1.58 mg/mL and 5.30 mg/mL), and high antioxidant potential in the ORAC assay (0.36-3.84 mM TE/g). Changes in the polyphenol profile of the analysed samples depending on the solvent and temperature used for the extraction were determined with the liquid chromatography/electrospray mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS/MS) method. Twenty-one phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids, were detected and quantified. It was shown that tiliroside was one of the main phenolic metabolites in the A. lanata (L.) Juss. herb., which may suggest that this compound may be largely responsible for the observed anti-inflammatory activity of the extracts. In addition, the studied extracts exhibited promising skin-related (anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-hyaluronidase) activity. This study showed that Aerva lanata (L.) Juss. contains high amounts of phenolic compounds, including tiliroside, and has good skin-related activities. Therefore, the plant may be interesting as a novel source of bioactive agents for cosmetic industries.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry.

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Imaging for Evaluation of Distribution of Nano-Formulated Hydrophobic Active Cosmetic Ingredients in Hydrophilic Films.

Film-forming systems are highly relevant to the topical administration of active ingredients (AI) to the body. Enhanced contact with the skin can increase the efficacy of delivery and penetration during prolonged exposure. However, after the evaporation of volatile solvents to form a thin film, the distribution of the ingredient should remain homogenous in order to ensure the effectiveness of the formula. This is especially critical for the use of hydrophobic molecules that have poor solubility in hydrophilic films. In order to address this concern, hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) of Punica granatum seed oil were prepared as a nanosuspension stabilised by poloxamers (NanoPHE). NanoPHE was then added to a formulation containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a film forming agent, Glycerol as a plasticiser and an antimicrobial agent, SepicideTM HB. Despite their reliability, reference methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography are increasingly challenged due to the need for consumables and solvents, which is contrary to current concerns about green industry in the cosmetics field. Moreover, such methods fail to provide spatially resolved chemical information. In order to investigate the distribution of ingredients in the dried film, Confocal Raman imaging (CRI) coupled to Non-negatively Constrained Least Squares (NCLS) analysis was used. The reconstructed heat maps from a range of films containing systematically varying PHE concentrations highlighted the changes in spectral contribution from each of the ingredients. First, using NCLS scores it was demonstrated that the distributions of PVA, Glycerol, SepicideTM HB and PHE were homogenous, with respective relative standard deviations (RSD) of 3.33%, 2.48%, 2.72% and 6.27%. Second, the respective relationships between ingredient concentrations in the films and their Raman responses, and the spectral abundance were established. Finally, a model for absolute quantification for PHE was be constructed using the percentage of spectral abundance. The prepared %w/w concentrations regressed against predicted %w/w concentrations, displaying high correlation (R2 = 0.995), while the Root Mean Squared Error (0.0869% w/w PHE) confirmed the precision of the analysis. The mean percent relative error of 3.75% indicates the accuracy to which the concentration in dried films could be determined, further supporting the suitability of CRI for analysis of composite solid film matrix. Ultimately, it was demonstrated that nanoformulation of hydrophobic PHE provides homogenous distribution in PVA based film-forming systems independent of the concentration of NanoPHE used in the formula.

Application of factorial experimental design for optimization and development of color lipstick containing antioxidant-rich Sacha inchi oil.

This study aimed to optimize and develop the color lipstick formulation containing antioxidant-rich Thai Sacha inchi oil using full factorial experimental design. Antioxidant capacity of Sacha inchi oil was elucidated using DPPH and linoleic acid peroxidation assays. The y-tocopherol content of the oil was also determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. Developing the color lipstick, lipstick base was optimized through the variation of %Sacha inchi oil, Ozokerite and Carnauba wax ratio (O:C ratio) and %Fat. Concurrently, the influences of these factors on lipstick physical characteristics were analyzed by means of statistics. Thai Sacha inchi oil exerted a notable antioxidant capacity with the highest y-tocopherol content. The combined effect of all factors influenced on the variations of breaking point and hardness of the lipsticks. Otherwise, only the O: C ratio negatively affected on melting point. The color lipstick containing methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and stearyl dimethicone as texture enhancers, significantly provided a greater color transfer than the plain formulation. In conclusion, Thai Sacha inchi oil could be a promising antioxidant-rich oil for developing into color lipstick. To evolve the desirable lipstick, the optimum proportion of wax, fat and oil played a crucial role in both structural integrity as well as texture and spreadability.

Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes.

Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51-56 µg mL-1) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 µg mL-1 in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (p < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.

Akebia quinata and Akebia trifoliata - a review of phytochemical composition, ethnopharmacological approaches and biological studies.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: 'Akebia stem' (Akebiae caulis) is one of the newest raw materials officially introduced into therapeutic practice from traditional Chinese medicine. A monograph on this material appeared for the first time in 2018 in Supplement 9.6 to the 9th edition of the European Pharmacopoeia. In the latest 10th edition of the European Pharmacopoeia, the monograph remained unchanged. The 'Akebia stem' monograph allows the use, as a raw material, of Akebia quinata (Houtt.) Decne., A. trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz, or a mixture of the two species. AIM OF THE STUDY: The aim of this work is a detailed review of the scientific literature on the genus Akebia (family Lardizabalaceae), with particular emphasis on A. quinata and A. trifoliata, providing information on the botanical, ecological, and chemical characteristics of these species. Professional research on their biological activity has been reviewed. The attention is given to phytochemistry and cosmetology. The traditional use of Akebia species and their potential use in medicine and cosmetology are assessed. In addition, individual papers describing biotechnology research on in vitro cultures of the two Akebia species are presented. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The presented botanical, ecological, phytochemical and biotechnological characterization is based on a thorough review of published scientific research. It is a compilation and evaluation of data on the chemical composition and biological activities of these Akebia species. RESULTS: This critical review of phytochemical studies demonstrates that triterpenoid saponins are dominant secondary metabolites of these species. A comparative analysis of phytochemical studies on A. quinata and A. trifoliata stems, roots, fruits, and seeds showed differences in metabolites based on the plant parts and species. The triterpenoid saponins mutongsaponin C and saponin Pj1 have been found only in A. trifoliata, whereas the phenolic glycoside 2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-ethyl-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside has been found only in A. quinata. Biological activity studies of A. quinata stem, leaf and/or fruit extracts have confirmed diuretic, hepatoregenerative, neuroprotective, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-obesity effects and an influence on ethanol metabolism. Different action profiles have been demonstrated for A. trifoliata stem, leaf and/or fruit extracts. Studies have proven the antibacterial and anticancer (liver and stomach) effects of these species. This review presents potential phytopharmacological applications of both species and detailed data on their broad applications in cosmetology. Attention is also drawn to information on the safety of using Akebia. Finally, an overview of biotechnology research on both species is presented. CONCLUSIONS: This review provides comprehensive knowledge about the ethnopharmacological use of Akebia species. Moreover, new findings on the differences in the chemical composition and biological activity profiles are underlined.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products.

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

An Overview to the Health Benefits of Seaweeds Consumption.

Currently, seaweeds are gaining major attention due to the benefits they give to our health. Recent studies demonstrate the high nutritional value of seaweeds and the powerful properties that seaweeds' bioactive compounds provide. Species of class Phaeophyceae, phylum Rhodophyta and Chlorophyta possess unique compounds with several properties that are potential allies of our health, which make them valuable compounds to be involved in biotechnological applications. In this review, the health benefits given by consumption of seaweeds as whole food or by assumption of bioactive compounds trough natural drugs are highlighted. The use of seaweeds in agriculture is also highlighted, as they assure soils and crops free from chemicals; thus, it is advantageous for our health. The addition of seaweed extracts in food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and industrial companies will enhance the production and consumption/usage of seaweed-based products. Therefore, there is the need to implement the research on seaweeds, with the aim to identify more bioactive compounds, which may assure benefits to human and animal health.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations.

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose "green cosmetics", which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics.

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick.

OBJECTIVE: Green and sustainable trends are growing and with that the demand for naturally derived ingredients is rising. Dispersing agents are essential components of lipsticks due to their ability to wet pigment particles, reduce agglomerates and prevent re-agglomeration by stabilizing pigment particles. In this study, meadowfoam seed oil was evaluated as a pigment-dispersing agent for lipsticks and compared with castor oil and octyldodecanol. METHODS: Dispersions of Red 7 Lake were formulated with 20, 30 and 40% solid content using castor oil, octyldodecanol or meadowfoam seed oil. Particle size, viscosity, spreadability, wetting, oil absorption and colour were measured. Four of the nine dispersions were then formulated into lipsticks, including all the 30% pigment dispersions and the 40% dispersion with meadowfoam seed oil. Lipsticks were tested for hardness, pay-off, friction, rheology, colour and stability for 4 weeks. RESULTS: Average particle size was between 6 and 9 µm across the dispersions. The castor oil dispersions were more viscous, stickier and harder to spread than the other dispersions. The wetting contact angle was very low for all three dispersing agents, indicating that all of the oils wet the pigment well. The lipsticks varied in hardness, as expected, based on differences in the viscosity of the dispersing agents, and oil absorption of the powder. Red 7 Lake absorbed the highest amount of castor oil, which contributed to higher stick hardness. The castor oil lipstick and the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment were the hardest and most elastic. The octyldodecanol lipstick was the softest. Friction was the lowest for the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment, while pay-off was the highest for the octyldodecanol lipstick. The colour of the lipsticks as a stick and after being spread on paper was very similar. CONCLUSION: While the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the dispersing agents were different, all three dispersing agents studied formed dispersions and lipsticks with appropriate characteristics. Meadowfoam seed oil's performance was qualitatively and quantitatively similar to castor oil and octyldodecanol. By modifying the amount of pigment and dispersing agent used, lipsticks that have similar characteristics to commercial products can be formulated.

OBJECTIF: Les tendances écologiques et durables sont en hausse, ainsi que la demande en ingrédients d'origine naturelle. Les agents de dispersion sont des composants essentiels des rouges à lèvres en raison de leur capacité à mouiller les particules pigmentaires, à réduire les agglomérats et à prévenir la réagglomération en stabilisant les particules pigmentaires. Dans cette étude, l'huile de graines de limnanthe a été évaluée en tant qu'agent de dispersion pigmentaire pour les rouges à lèvres et comparée à l'huile de ricin et à l'octyldodécanol. MÉTHODES: Les dispersions de Red 7 Lake ont été formulées avec une teneur solide de 20, 30 et 40 % à l'aide d'huile de ricin, d'octyldodécanol ou d'huile de graines de limnanthe. La taille des particules, la viscosité, la facilité d'étalement, le mouillage, l'absorption de l'huile et la couleur ont été mesurés. Quatre des neuf dispersions ont ensuite été formulées dans des rouges à lèvres, y compris toutes les dispersions pigmentaires à 30 % et la dispersion à 40 % avec l'huile de graines de limnanthe. Les rouges à lèvres ont été testés pour la dureté, le résultat, la friction, la rhéologie, la couleur et la stabilité pendant 4 semaines. RÉSULTATS: La taille moyenne des particules était comprise entre 6 et 9 µm dans les dispersions. Les dispersions d'huile de ricin étaient plus visqueuses, plus collantes et plus difficiles à étaler que les autres dispersions. L'angle de contact de mouillage était très faible pour les trois agents de dispersion, indiquant que toutes les huiles humidifient bien le pigment. La dureté des rouges à lèvres variait, comme attendu, en fonction des différences de viscosité des agents dispersants et de l'absorption de l'huile de la poudre. Red 7 Lake absorbe la plus grande quantité d'huile de ricin, ce qui contribue à une dureté du bâton plus élevée. Le rouge à lèvres à base d'huile de ricin et le rouge à lèvres à base d'huile de graines de limnanthe contenant 40 % de pigment étaient les plus durs et les plus élastiques. Le rouge à lèvres à base d'octyldodécanol était le plus mou. La friction était la plus basse pour le rouge à lèvres à base d'huile de graines de limnanthe contenant 40 % de pigment, tandis que le résultat était le plus élevé pour le rouge à lèvres à base d'octyldodécanol. La couleur des rouges à lèvres en bâton et après avoir été étalés sur du papier était très similaire. CONCULSION: Alors que la composition chimique et les propriétés physicochimiques des agents de dispersion étaient différentes, les trois agents de dispersion étudiés ont tous formé des dispersions et des rouges à lèvres ayant des caractéristiques appropriées. Les performances de l'huile de graines de limnanthe étaient qualitativement et quantitativement similaires à celles de l'huile de ricin et de l'octyldodécanol. En modifiant la quantité de pigment et d'agent dispersant utilisée, des rouges à lèvres ayant des caractéristiques similaires aux produits commerciaux peuvent être formulés.