Skin occlusive performance: Sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.

BACKGROUND: The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic, and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM: This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD: The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 min, 2 and 6 h of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6 h time course. CONCLUSION: Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients, and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 min post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Formulation and characterization of a Helianthus annuus - alkyl polyglucoside emulsion cream for topical applications.

BACKGROUND: Green formulations with herbal oils and natural nonionic emulsifiers project several advantages, like favorable viscosity profiles, for use as topical applicants. Their inherent constituents also protect the skin against free radical damage and lipid peroxidation. They may hence serve as alternatives for synthetic chemical-based formulations. OBJECTIVE: Formulation and characterization of Helianthus annuus-alkyl polyglucoside cream for topical application has been attempted. Its inherent sun protection factor has been measured and compared with a similar commercial formulation. It is well known that the internal network of liquid crystals of such emulsifiers can store depot water to maintain moisturization for long time, thus bestowing beneficial dermatological effects. METHODS: Physicochemical characterization of the oil was done. The formulation process for the cream was optimized for reduced particle size with respect to ultrasonication conditions. It was characterized extensively; its inherent sun protection factor was measured and compared with a similar commercial cream. RESULTS: The cream was smooth, creamy, and showed non-Newtonian thixotropic behavior and good shear-thinning features with an SPF of 6.3 that compared favorably with a similar commercial cream. CONCLUSIONS: The cream may serve as a good topical applicant and also help in skin hydration due to the inherent nature of the emulsifier. It may protect against UV radiations due to the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory nature of the natural oil constituents. It may be used as a low-SPF formulation.

Blocking or enhancing effects of some basic emollients in UVA penetration.

BACKGROUND: Topical agents used in combination with phototherapy or photochemotherapy may have both blocking or enhancing effects in ultraviolet rays. OBJECTIVE: In this in vivo study, the effects of topical petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, and olive oil on the transmission of ultraviolet A radiation were investigated. METHODS: A test was performed to determine the minimal phototoxic dose on 29 volunteers with only psoralen plus ultraviolet A (PUVA) and then the same test was repeated with white petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, olive oil, and sunscreen (0.3cc/25cm2). The effects of each agent on the minimal phototoxic dose were determined after 72 h. RESULTS: When compared to pure PUVA, there was a statistically significant increase in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values by the application of white petrolatum (P = 0.011), but there was no significant increase or decrease in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values after the application of basis cream (P = 0.326), glycerine (P = 0.611) or olive oil (P = 0.799). STUDY LIMITATIONS: Low number of patients Conclusion: The application of white petrolatum, which has a blocking effect, and also of basis cream immediately before PUVA therapy should not be recommended. Although we specify that glycerine and maybe olive oil can be used before photochemotherapy, there is a need for further research in larger series.

Blocking or enhancing effects of some basic emollients in UVA penetration

Abstract: Background: Topical agents used in combination with phototherapy or photochemotherapy may have both blocking or enhancing effects in ultraviolet rays. Objective: In this in vivo study, the effects of topical petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, and olive oil on the transmission of ultraviolet A radiation were investigated. Methods: A test was performed to determine the minimal phototoxic dose on 29 volunteers with only psoralen plus ultraviolet A (PUVA) and then the same test was repeated with white petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, olive oil, and sunscreen (0.3cc/25cm2). The effects of each agent on the minimal phototoxic dose were determined after 72 h. Results: When compared to pure PUVA, there was a statistically significant increase in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values by the application of white petrolatum (P = 0.011), but there was no significant increase or decrease in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values after the application of basis cream (P = 0.326), glycerine (P = 0.611) or olive oil (P = 0.799). Study limitations: Low number of patients Conclusion: The application of white petrolatum, which has a blocking effect, and also of basis cream immediately before PUVA therapy should not be recommended. Although we specify that glycerine and maybe olive oil can be used before photochemotherapy, there is a need for further research in larger series.

Influence of sunflower seed oil or baby lotion on the skin barrier function of newborns: A pilot study.

BACKGROUND: Skin care influences skin barrier function during the first postnatal weeks. Although the use of natural oils in preterms has been investigated, there are currently no data comparing the effect of sunflower oil to an emollient on barrier development in healthy term newborns. METHODS: In a prospective, randomized clinical study, 50 healthy full-term newborns aged ≤72 h were randomly assigned to two groups: group baby lotion (L, n=22) and sunflower seed oil (SSO, n=24). The skin barrier function was evaluated in three anatomical areas (front, abdomen, and thigh) by noninvasive assessment of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), sebum, and skin pH at inclusion and after five weeks. RESULTS: In both groups, skin pH decreased and SCH increased statistically significantly in all measured areas at W5 compared to baseline. TEWL decreased statistically significantly on the forearm in both groups, on the upper leg in group L, and on the abdomen in group SSO. CONCLUSIONS: Both skin care regimes did not harm skin barrier function adaptation in healthy term neonates during the first five weeks of life.

Wound-healing promoting effect of total tannins from Entada phaseoloides (L.) Merr. in rats.

The healing of wounds has always provided challenges for the medical community whether chronic or acute. Modern and traditional medicine has proved that herbal medicine shown superiority over chemical drugs. Herein, we report an Entada phaseoloides (L.) Merr. extract with a total tannin content of 76.18% showed wound-healing promoting effect in rat model. We found significantly accelerated wound closure already on day 7 in animals treated with total Entada phaseoloides (L.) Merr. tannins (TEPT) as compared to vaseline treated controls (p<0.05). At day 15, histologically, the wounds in animals treated with TEPT were completely closed as compared to controls. In vitro, TEPT promotes fibroblast proliferation and migration into wounds of NIH3T3 with concentration range of 9.38-37.50µg/ml. TEPT also had an inhibitory action against Staphylococcus aureus with MBC of 1.5mg/ml and the result was further proved by transmission electron microscope. Thus, TEPT could promote wound shrinkage, improve healing rate and promote healing of infectious wounds in rats. And this effect may due to antibacterial activities and NIH3T3 cell pro-proliferative effect of the tannins compounds, which indicating that TEPT can be used as efficient treatment in traumatic injury.

Comparison of skin hydration in combination and single use of common moisturizers (cream, toner, and spray water).

This study aims to assess the moisturization in combination or single use (including seven general applications) of three common moisturizers: cream, toner, and spray water. Groups were set as C: cream only; T: toner only; C+T, T+C: cream or toner applied successively within a few minutes; C-T, C-S: cream applied with repeated toner or spray water every 2 h; T-T: toner applied with repeated toner every 2 h; and N: untreated group. Outcomes were the change in skin hydration from baseline at 2, 4, 6, and 8 h after applications. All treated zones displayed a significantly higher degree of hydration compared with the untreated zone ( p < 0.05). For normal skin (hydration value at baseline >35 a.u.), C-T led to greatest hydration change rate compared with others, followed by C+T, T+C, and C. Those three applications exhibited analogous hydration at each test point ( p > 0.05). The hydration rate of C-S differed slightly from T-T, followed by those four mentioned above, with T being the last. For dry skin (hydration value at baseline <35 a.u.), no statistical significance could be detected between C-T zone and C+T, T+C, and C zones ( p > 0.05), the other results were identical. When cream and toner were applied successively, the application order has little effect on skin hydration. The application of cream only was an effective and brief way to achieve favorable moisturization especially for dry skin. As a complement, repeated application of toner rather than spray water is efficacious for skin hydration.

Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) nut oil is a popular ingredient in cosmetics such as skin lotions, lipsticks and foundations. The demand for this African oil increased tremendously such that in 2008 almost US$ 20 million was spent on Marula oil for cosmetic product manufacturing. The ethnobotanical literature states that the Zulu people in South Africa amongst others applied the oil to maintain a healthy skin. Scientific studies to support the traditional use as well as the inclusion of Marula oil in cosmetic products is lacking. This study evaluated the irritancy potential (safety), the moisturising and hydrating effects as well occlusivity properties (efficacy) of Marula oil after topical application. In addition, the Marula oil used in this study was comprehensively characterised using two-dimensional gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. METHODS AND MATERIALS: Quantification of the fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) was done using a LECO Pegasus 4D GC × GC-MS. To determine the safety and efficacy of Marula oil healthy caucasian adult female volunteers (n = 20) who complied with the inclusion and exclusion criteria for the irritancy patch, moisture efficacy, hydrating and occlusivity tests were recruited for each study. A 2 × magnifying lamp (visual observation), Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to evaluate and monitor the irritancy level, skin barrier function, transepidermal water loss, hydrating and occlusive effects of topically applied Marula oil. RESULTS: The GC × GC-MS analysis identified several saturated as well as unsaturated fatty acids. Oleic acid was the major fatty acid constituting 69.0% of the oil followed by palmitic acid (15.3%), linoleic acid (9.2%), palmitoleic acid (4.1%) and stearic acid (1.5%). The clinical study revealed that Marula oil is non-irritant (p < 0.001), with moisturising and hydrating properties (p < 0.001) when applied to a lipid-dry (xerosis) skin. Additionally the oil exhibited occlusive effects (p < 0.001) when applied to normal skin. These findings may be linked to the absorption of the oil into the skin due to the high percentage of oleic acid and the presence of palmitic acid which are known to disturb the stratum corneum intercellular lipids. These fatty acids present in Marula oil are very similar to those present in the epidermis, and can be considered biomimetic. CONCLUSIONS: Marula oil rich in fatty acids exhibits moisturising, hydrating and occlusive properties. As the oil is non-irritating and provides a moisturising effect with moderate prevention of transepidermal water loss, average moisture retention properties and noteworthy occlusive effects, its inclusion in cosmetic products based on its traditional use may be justified depending on the application.

Anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects of glycerol and xylitol in sodium lauryl sulphate-induced acute irritation.

BACKGROUND: Glycerol is known to possess anti-irritant and hydrating properties and previous studies suggested that xylitol may also have similar effects. OBJECTIVE: Our aim was to study whether different concentrations of these polyols restore skin barrier function and soothe inflammation in sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced acute irritation. METHODS: The experiments were performed on male SKH-1 hairless mice. The skin of the dorsal region was exposed to SLS (5%) for 3 h alone or together with 5% or 10% of glycerol respectively. Further two groups received xylitol solutions (8.26% and 16.52% respectively) using the same osmolarities, which were equivalent to those of the glycerol treatments. The control group was treated with purified water. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration were determined. Microcirculatory parameters of inflammation were observed by means of intravital videomicroscopy (IVM). Furthermore, accumulation of neutrophil granulocytes and lymphocytes, the expression of inflammatory cytokines and SLS penetration were assessed, as well. RESULTS: Treatment with the 10% of glycerol and both concentrations of xylitol inhibited the SLS-induced elevation of TEWL and moderated the irritant-induced increase in dermal blood flow and in the number of leucocyte-endothelial interactions. All concentrations of the applied polyols improved hydration and prevented the accumulation of lymphocytes near the treatment site. At the mRNA level, neither glycerol nor xylitol influenced the expression of interleukin-1 alpha. However, expression of interleukin-1 beta was significantly decreased by the 10% glycerol treatment, while expression of tumour necrosis factor-alpha decreased upon the same treatment, as well as in response to xylitol. Higher polyol treatments decreased the SLS penetration to the deeper layers of the stratum corneum. CONCLUSION: Both of the analysed polyols exert considerable anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, but the effective concentration of xylitol is lower than that of glycerol.

Moisturizing effect of stable cream containing Crocus sativus extracts.

The present study is about to prepare stable cream of water-in-oil emulsion containing extracts of Crocus sativus against its base (without extracts) taken as control, to determine its stability on different storage conditions and effects on skin moisture contents and transepidermal water loss. The formulation contains 3% Crocus sativus (Saffron) concentrated extracts, and the base containing no extract, were formulated. Different stability tests were done on samples, which placed at 8°C, 25°C, 40°C and 40°C with 75% relative humidity, for 4 week period. These formulations (Creams) were applied on the cheeks of human volunteers for 8week period. To evaluate any effect produced by these formulations different skin parameters were monitored every week. The significant results of this study explored the fact that water-in-oil emulsion topical cream of saffron formulated from Crocus sativus extract has absolute physical stability at different storage conditions. The increase in skin moisture contents and changes in transepidermal water loss were significant (p<0.05) with respect to base and formulation respectively. Topical cream of Crocus sativus showed significant moisturizing effects on human skin.

Fragility of epidermis and its consequence in dermatology.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, providing a protective barrier against bacteria, chemicals and physical insults while maintaining homeostasis in the internal environment. Such a barrier function the skin ensures protection against excessive water loss. The skin's immune defence consists of several facets, including immediate, non-specific mechanisms (innate immunity) and delayed, stimulus-specific responses (adaptive immunity), which contribute to fending off a wide range of potentially invasive microorganisms. This article is an overview of all known data about 'fragile skin'. Fragile skin is defined as skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin can be classified into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. This article includes the epidemiologic data, pathologic description of fragile skin with pathophysiological bases (mechanical and immunological role of skin barrier) and clinical description of fragile skin in atopic dermatitis, in acne, in rosacea, in psoriasis, in contact dermatitis and other dermatologic pathologies. This article includes also clinical cases and differential diagnosis of fragile skin (reactive skin) in face in adult population. In conclusion, fragile skin is very frequent worldwide and its prevalence varies between 25% and 52% in Caucasian, African and Asian population.

Effects of seaweed Laminaria japonica extracts on skin moisturizing activity in vivo.

Twelve species of edible seaweed from the coast of Korea were screened for skin moisturizing activity. We placed the lead of a Corneometer on an approximately 6-cm2 test area of the forearm and measured both untreated skin (control) and skin treated with test moisturizing creams either containing or not containing 5% water:propylene glycol (50:50) extracts of seaweeds. Over the 8-h observation period, the strongest activity of the Laminaria japonica extracts occurred at the 2-h period. For the 10% extract, hydration with the L. japonica extract increased by 14.44% compared with a placebo. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was also measured using a test cream with 10% L. japonica extract. For up to 8 h after applying the creams, TEWL was decreased to 4.01 g/cm2, which was approximately 20% of that seen with the control. We suggest that the L. japonica extract hydrates skin via the humectants and hydrocolloids that it contains. To confirm the safety of L. japonica extracts, we performed a patch test on human skin. The results suggested that at moderate doses humans can safely use the extracts. For commercial applications, we evaluated the physicochemical characteristics of the test cream products, including Hunter L, a, and b values; pH; refractive index; and coefficient of viscosity. L. japonica extract did not affect overall formulations of the test cream product in any of the tested aspects. These results suggest that L. japonica extract is a promising ingredient in moisturizing formulations.

Formulation and evaluation of herbal anti-acne moisturizer.

The moisture content present in human skin makes it look young and the use of moisturizer results in fastening the moisture with a surface film of oil. Acne vulgaris is one of the most commonly seen diseases among the youth. The present study is focused on the use of herbs as moisturizer for acne treatment. The anti-acne moisturizer was formulated from herbal crude extracts and investigated the physico-chemical parameters as well as antibacterial activity of the formulation. The study revealed that ethanol extract of Andrographis paniculata, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ocimum sanctum, Azadiracta indica and Green tea possessed the potential for inhibiting acne. It was observed that the optimal formula of anti-acne moisturizer was satisfactorily effective to control acne inducing bacteria i.e., Staphylococcus epidermis and Propionibacterium. The physico-chemical parameters of the formulation were also optimal with no signs of irritation.

Topical vesicular formulations of Curcuma longa extract on recuperating the ultraviolet radiation-damaged skin.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet radiations generate reactive oxygen species, leading to adverse effects on skin properties. Botanical extracts are multifunctional in nature having various properties like photoprotection, anti-aging, moisturizing, antioxidant, astringent, anti-irritant, and antimicrobial activity. AIMS: The aim of this study was to formulate creams having Curcuma longa extract loaded novel vesicular systems (liposomes, ethosomes, and transfersomes) and study their photoprotective effect by assessment of skin hydration (Cutometer) and sebum content (Sebumeter). METHODS: The alcoholic C. longa extract loaded liposomes, ethosomes, and transfersomes having 0.5-2.0% w/w extract were prepared, evaluated for size, entrapment efficiency, and incorporated into the cream. Their long-term interaction with skin (6 weeks) was compared in terms of their effects on skin hydration and sebum content. RESULTS: Vesicular size obtained was in the range 167.3 ± 3.0 to 262.4 ± 2.4 nm with low polydispersity index (0.2-0.3) and high entrapment efficiency. The efficacy was in the order C. longa extract loaded transfersomal creams > C. longa extract loaded ethosomal creams > C. longa extract loaded liposomal creams > C. longa extract loaded creams > Empty transfersome loaded cream > Empty ethosome loaded cream > Empty liposome loaded cream > Base cream. CONCLUSIONS: The photoprotective properties of the constituents of C. longa extract and hydrant, moisturizing lipid components of nano vesicles with better skin penetration resulted in improvement in skin properties like skin hydration and sebum content. The herbal extract loaded nano vesicles incorporated in cream could be used as photoprotective formulations.

Evaluation of moisturizing effect of methanolic extract of five medicinal plants incorporated into cream bases using impedance and extensiometry methods.

BACKGROUND: Skin moisturizing is an important issue due to its impact on skin function. Adverse reactions to herbal extracts have been rarely reported and can be used in moisturizers. This study was conduct to evaluate moisturizing effect of a methanolic extract of five medicinal plants incorporated into cream bases. METHODS: Methanolic extract of five medicinal plants including olive, burdock, licorice, mallow and marsh horsetail was prepared. The extracts were dissolved in distilled water completely and freeze-dried to a dry powder. These extracts were added separately to the cream based formulation that has been suggested to be appropriate for adding herbal extracts. Moisturizing effects of these creams with herbal extracts were assessed using the impedance method on 12 rats equally divided into six groups (one control and five cases), as well as the extensiometry method on 25 mice divided into five groups (in each group one cream with herbal extract and control cream were tested concurrently). Obtained results were compared with the control cream based. RESULTS: The maximum moisturizing effect was observed with the marsh horsetail. Other creams with herbal extracts, except the one with the licorice, also exerted significantly higher moisturizing effect compared to the controls (P<0.05). Regarding the force for skin tearing, the differences were statistically significant in all groups when compared to the control group (P<0.05) and the highest difference was seen in the marsh horsetail group (2.0832 ± 0.6811 kgN). CONCLUSIONS: The highest moisturizing activity was observed using marsh horsetail extract that can be explained by flavonoids content of marsh horsetail.

Calendula extract: effects on mechanical parameters of human skin.

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of newly formulated topical cream of Calendula officinalis extract on the mechanical parameters of the skin by using the cutometer. The Cutometer 580 MPA is a device that is designed to measure the mechanical properties of the skin in response to the application of negative pressure. This non-invasive method can be useful for objective and quantitative investigation of age related changes in skin, skin elasticity, skin fatigue, skin hydration, and evaluation of the effects of cosmetic and antiaging topical products. Two creams (base and formulation) were prepared for the study. Both the creams were applied to the cheeks of 21 healthy human volunteers for a period of eight weeks. Every individual was asked to come on week 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 and measurements were taken by using Cutometer MPA 580 every week. Different mechanical parameters of the skin measured by the cutometer were; R0, R1, R2, R5, R6, R7, and R8. These were then evaluated statistically to measure the effects produced by these creams. Using ANOVA, and t-test it was found that R0, and R6 were significant (p <0.05) whereas R1, R2, R5, R7, R8 were insignificant (p > 0.05). The instrumental measurements produced by formulation reflected significant improvements in hydration and firmness of skin.

Influence of Aqueous Cream BP on corneocyte size, maturity, skin protease activity, protein content and transepidermal water loss.

BACKGROUND: Aqueous Cream BP is frequently prescribed for patients with eczema and is known to induce sensitivity in certain patients and also to decrease the thickness of the stratum corneum (SC). We have previously reported methodology to quantify corneocyte maturity and size, protease activity and protein content within different levels of the SC. OBJECTIVES: The aim of the present study was to investigate changes in corneocyte size, corneocyte maturity, selected protease activities, protein content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in normal skin after a 28-day application of Aqueous Cream BP. METHODS: The left and right mid volar forearms of six healthy female volunteers were selected as the study sites. Aqueous Cream BP was applied twice daily to treated sites for 28 days. At the end of this period, the site was tape-stripped and corneocyte maturity, corneocyte size and protease activity of the desquamatory kallikrein proteases, KLK5 and KLK7, and the inflammatory proteases tryptase and plasmin were measured. Protein content and TEWL measurements were also recorded. RESULTS: Corneocyte maturity and size decreased with increasing number of tape strips, and were significantly lower in treated sites compared with untreated sites. Protease activity and TEWL values were higher (P < 0·05) for the treated sites compared with untreated sites. The amount of protein removed from deeper layers of treated sites was significantly lower than from untreated sites. CONCLUSIONS: We report rapid minimally invasive measures of the effects of Aqueous Cream BP at the cellular and molecular level of the skin. Treatment with this formulation is associated with increased desquamatory and inflammatory protease activity. Changes in corneocyte maturity and size are also indicative of accelerated skin turnover induced by chronic application of this emollient. These findings question firmly the routine prescription of this preparation as a moisturizer in patients with atopic dermatitis.

Wound healing potential of methanol extract of Spathodea campanulata stem bark formulated into a topical preparation.

This study evaluated the wound healing potential of Spathodea campanulata stem bark in Sprague Dawley rats using the excision wound model. The methanol extract contained glycosides, flavonoids and tannins, and was relatively stable when stored at the room temperature for six (6) months. Solvent-free, semi-solid extract of S. campanulata was incorporated into an aqueous cream and applied (10 % w/w and 20 % w/w) on excision wounds of thirty two (32) rats. Cicatrin(®) cream was used as a standard wound healing agent. Prior to the remedial cream application, done later on twice daily, sixteen (16) rats had their wounds infected with Staphylococcus aureus, while in the remaining sixteen the wounds were kept clean. The surface area of the excision wounds was monitored planimetrically every four (4) days until a complete wound closure or healing took place. Excision wounds treated with 20 % w/w Spathodea cream and Cicatrin(®) cream showed a rapid and comparable decrease (p > 0.05) in wound size. In uninfected wounds, both 20 % w/w Spathodea cream and Cicatrin(®) cream application resulted in ∼ 95 %-wound closure seen on Day 20, and a complete closure seen on Day 24. In infected wounds, both 20 % w/w Spathodea cream and Cicatrin(®) cream administration led to ∼ 91 %-wound closure on Day 24 and a complete wound contraction on Day 28. The results of this study justify the folkloric use of S. campanulata stem bark to the effect of wound treatment.

Strontium hexaferrite nanomagnets suspended in a cosmetic preparation: a convenient tool to evaluate the biological effects of surface magnetism on human skin.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Magnetic therapy has been popular for ages, but its therapeutic abilities remain to be demonstrated. We aimed to develop a homogeneous, stable dispersion of magnetic nanoparticles in a skin-care preparation, as a tool to analyze the biological and physiological effects of superficial magnetism in skin. METHODS: SrFe(12)O(19) nanoparticles were generated by ultrasound, dispersed in glycerol, stabilized in Dermud cream and permanently magnetized. The magnetic cream was applied on the epidermis of human skin organ cultures. The effects on UV-induced cell toxicity, apoptosis and inflammatory cytokine expression were analyzed. A clinical test was performed to check skin moisturization. RESULTS: Nanomagnets were found to be homogenously and stably dispersed. After magnetization, the preparation generated a magnetic field of 1-2 G. Upon cream application, no cytotoxicity and no impairment of cellular vitality were found after 24 and 48 h, respectively. The anti-apoptotic and anti-inflammatory properties of Dermud were not modified, but its long-term effect on moisturization in vivo was slightly increased. CONCLUSION: Nanomagnetic Dermud cream can be used as a tool to analyze the biological effects of nanomagnets dispersed on the skin surface at the cellular and molecular levels, thus allowing to explore the possible therapeutic uses of superficial magnetism for skin care.

Expression of differential genes involved in the maintenance of water balance in human skin by Piptadenia colubrina extract.

BACKGROUND: Hydration and integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is an important determinant of skin appearance, metabolism, mechanical properties, and barrier function. The presence of aquaglyceroporins and envelope proteins are crucial to provide greater corneocyte cohesion to keep water and other moisturizers in the skin. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated the ability of Piptadenia colubrina, a plant native of South American rain forests, in the expression of genes involved in skin capacitance and SC integrity. METHODS: The expression of genes for aquaporin-3 (AQP3), loricrin, involucrin (INV), and filaggrin (FLG) was measured by real-time PCR, using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes incubated with concentrations of 2.5, 5, 10, and 20 mg/mL of a hydroglycolic extract of P. colubrina (HEPC). The amount of AQP3 protein was also tested by immunohistochemistry in human skin explants. Clinical trials were conducted to evaluate the effects of a gel-cream containing HEPC on the glycerol index and skin capacitance. RESULTS: Hydroglycolic extract of P. colubrina increased both the expression and immunoreactivity of AQP3 in cultured keratinocytes and human skin explants. The gene induction to envelope proteins FLG and INV was also observed after cell incubation with HEPC. Skin capacitance was significantly improved in human volunteers under treatment with HEPC-containing cream. CONCLUSIONS: The extract of P. colubrina promotes cellular hydration and induces gene expression of envelope proteins providing greater corneocyte cohesion to keep water and other moisturizers in the skin and an appropriate epidermal adhesion. The in vitro findings were clinically confirmed and encourage the clinical use of this compound in skin care products.