Skin-whitening mechanism of cumin (Cuminum cyminum L.) extract.

Skin-whitening effect is closely linked with the melanogenesis inhibitory activity and free radical scavenging capacity. The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the skin-whitening effect of cumin (Cuminum cyminum L.) extract. The whitening activity was evaluated by cell-free mushroom tyrosinase assay, free radical scavenging assay, cell viability assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells. The results showed that cumin extract exhibited concentration-dependent inhibitory effect on both monophenolase and diphenolase activities of mushroom tyrosinase (IC50 values of 1.027mg/mL and 0.977mg/mL, respectively). Kinetic study on diphenolase showed that the cumin extract was a reversible mixed-type inhibitor, and the inhibition constant (KI) was determined to be 0.62mg/mL. In addition, cumin extract significantly suppressed melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity of B16F10 melanoma cells in a concentration and time dependent manner without cytotoxicity. Moreover, cumin extract exerted strong scavenging capacity on DPPH, hydroxyl and superoxide anion radicals. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that cumin is a potential skin-whitening agent for the cosmetic industry.

Skin-Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Bioactive Compounds Isolated from Peanut Shell Using Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction.

Response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions for simultaneous optimization of dependent variables, including DPPH radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI), and collagenase activity inhibition (CAI) of peanut shell extracts. The effects of the main variables including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min, X1), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C, X2), and ethanol concentration (0.0%~99.5%, X3) were optimized. Based on experimental values from each condition, quadratic regression models were derived for the prediction of optimum conditions. The coefficient of determination (R2) of the independent variable was in the range of 0.89~0.96, which demonstrates that the regression model is suitable for the prediction. In predicting optimal UAE conditions based on the superimposing method, extraction time of 31.2 min, extraction temperature of 36.6 °C, and ethanol concentration of 93.2% were identified. Under these conditions, RSA of 74.9%, TAI of 50.6%, and CAI of 86.8% were predicted, showing good agreement with the experimental values. A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction showed that peanut shell extract decreased mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-3 genes in B16-F0 cell. Therefore, we identified the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of peanut shell extracts at protein as well as gene expression levels, and the results show that peanut shell is an effective cosmetic material for skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. Based on this study, peanut shell, which was considered a byproduct, can be used for the development of healthy foods, medicines, and cosmetics.

The effect of isolates from Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) alston, a plant used as a skin lightning agent, on melanin production and tyrosinase inhibition.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The Zulu and Xhosa people of South Africa use the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii as a skin-lightning cosmetic. AIM OF THE STUDY: To isolate and identify compounds responsible for the skin lightning properties from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii and to evaluate their cytotoxicity towards skin cells. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Extracts from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii were isolated using chromatographic methods and structures were determined using NMR, IR and MS analysis. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity and the ability to inhibit the production of melanin were determined using human primary epidermal melanocyte cells. Cytoxicity was established using the same melanocytes and a neutral red assay. RESULTS: One previously undescribed compound, ent-atis-16-en-19-al (1) along with the known ent-atis-16-en-19-oic acid (2), ent-atis-16-en-19-ol (3), ent-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (4), ent-kaur-16-en-19-al (5), ent-manoyl oxide (6), guinesine A (7), guinesine B (8), guinesine C (9), lichenxanthone (10), 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethyl benzoic acid methyl ester (11), lynoside (12), lupeol (13), ß-amyrin (14), docosyl ferulate (15), stigmasterol, sitosterol and sitosterol-O-glucoside were isolated in this investigation. An impure fraction containing compound 3 was acetylated to obtain 19-acetoxy-ent-atis-16-ene (3a). Compounds 10 and 11 are usually isolated from lichen, hence they are possible contaminants of lichen harvested with the bark. Compounds 1, 3a, 5-14 were not significantly cytotoxic to the primary epidermal melanocyte cells (P > 0.05) when compared to the negative and positive controls (DMSO, 0.1% and hydrogen peroxide, 30 wt% in water). Inhibition of tyrosinase was significantly greater with respect to the negative control (P < 0.001) for compounds 3a, 5-8 and 9-10 at 10 µM and for compounds 5-8 and 9-10 at 100 µM. Compared to hydroquinone (the positive control) at 10 µM, the level of inhibition was comparable or to that of compounds 3a, 5, 6, and 8-10 at 10 µM, with 9 and 10 showing a greater level of inhibition. Inhibition of melanin was both concentration and time dependent for all compounds tested with higher melanin content at 24 h compared to 48 h s and at 10 mM compared to100 mM at both time points; melanin content was significantly lower for hydroquinone at both time points and concentrations. CONCLUSIONS: Compounds 1, 5-14, isolated from Cassipourea flanaganii and the derivative 3a showed low cytotoxicity. All compounds had a clear time and concentration dependent effect on melanin content which did not appear to be dependent on their inhibition of tyrosinase.

Formulation and evaluation of antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of Polygonum amplexicaule herbal gel.

Medicinal plants are long been used for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Among medicinal plants, Polygonum amplexicaule of family polygonaceae has traditional use in medicines and skin care. P. amplexicaule belongs to genus Polygonum that contains several important phytochemicals and considered as a rich source of antioxidants. The present study was designed to formulate herbal gel containing P. amplexicaule extract and evaluate its different physical properties as well as antioxidants and antityrosinase activities. Chitosan gel base was used as gelling agent and different gel formulations were prepared by different concentrations of extracts and polymers. Physical properties like pH, colour, odour, appearance and homogeneity, spreadability, extrudability and stability were optimized and analysed. A stable gel formulation containing 1% chitosan gel base and 5% plant extract was prepared that showed good appearance and homogeneity, easily spread ability and excellent extrudability. This gel formulation was tested for antioxidant and skin whitening properties by DPPH free radical scavenging assay and tyrosinase inhibition assay respectively and ascorbic acid was used as reference standard. DPPH scavenging activity with an IC50 value of 0.446 mg/mL and tyrosinase inhibition activity with an IC50 value of 0.805 mg/mL was observed and results indicated that this herbal gel formulation has a good potential for cosmetic use.

Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide reduces melanogenesis by inhibiting the paracrine effects of keratinocytes and fibroblasts via IL-6/STAT3/FGF2 pathway.

Our previous study found that Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide (GLP), bioactive ingredients from Ganoderma lucidum, protected fibroblasts from photoaging. However, whether GLP can affect melanogenesis in melanocytes through regulating paracrine mediators that secreted by keratinocytes and fibroblasts is unclear. We aimed to investigate the efficacy and mechanisms of action of GLP in melanogenesis by regulating paracrine effects of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The effect of GLP on cell viability affected by GLP was measured by the 3-(4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl)-2,5-diphenyl-2H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. After an immortal keratinocyte line (HaCaT) and primary fibroblasts (FB) were treated with GLP, the supernatants of HaCaT and FB cells were collected and cocultured with an immortalized melanocyte line (PIG1). The expression levels of melanogenesis-associated genes in PIG1 cells were measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blot analysis. Furthermore, FRS-2, ERK, JNK, and p38 phosphorylation levels were measured. Then, major melanogenic paracrine mediators in HaCaT and FB cells treated with GLP were evaluated by qRT-PCR and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). In addition, the expression of IL-6 and STAT3 was examined in HaCaT and FB cells. GLP was not cytotoxic to HaCaT and FB cells. The supernatants of GLP-treated HaCaT and FB cells downregulated the expression levels of MITF, TYR, TYRP1, TYRP2, RAB27A, and FSCN1 genes and inhibited the phosphorylation of FRS-2, ERK, JNK, and p38 in PIG1 cells. GLP also decreased FGF2 secretion in HaCaT and FB cells. Moreover, GLP reduced IL-6 expression and STAT3 phosphorylation in HaCaT and FB cells. GLP reduced melanogenesis in melanocytes by inhibiting the paracrine effects of keratinocytes and fibroblasts via IL-6/STAT3/FGF2 pathway.

Phytochemical screening and antityrosinase activity of carvacrol, thymoquinone, and four essential oils of Lebanese plants.

OBJECTIVE: In our study, we aim to explore the ability of four essential oils (EO) of Lebanese plants to inhibit the tyrosinase activity and to correlate their efficiency level to their phytochemical compositions. METHODS: The EO have been extracted by hydrodistillation using a Clevenger apparatus and have been studied by GC-MS analysis. Active compounds of Origanum species were identified and antityrosinase activities of EO and active molecules (carvacrol and thymoquinone) have been tested in tubo. RESULTS: Antityrosinase activities were obtained as follows: EO of Origanum syriacum (80.41% ± 2.00%), EO of Origanum ehrenbergii (45.33% ± 2.20%), EO of Salvia fruticosa (14.62% ± 2.30%), EO of Calamintha origanifolia (16.51% ± 5.80%), Carvacrol (56.55% ± 3.10%), and Thymoquinone (19.49% ± 1.50%). CONCLUSION: Origanum essential oils resulted in the highest antityrosinase activity due to their high content in carvacrol. However, when present together with carvacrol, thymoquinone decreases the efficiency of carvacrol, which is the case of O. ehrenbergii essential oil. Thus, for improved antityrosinase activity, O. syriacum and O. ehrenbergii should be harvested during flowering stage where carvacrol is present at its highest dosage and thymoquinone at its lowest.

Poria cocos Wolf extracts represses pigmentation in vitro and in vivo.

In skin, melanocytes determine skin color using melanogenesis, which induces protective mechanism to oxidative stress and UV damage. However, when melanin is excessive produced by the various stimulus, the accumulated melanin induces hyperpigmentation disease such as melasma, freckles, Melanism ware induced. Therefore, it is implicated to finding potential agents for whitening to be used in cosmetic products. In our present study, we show that Poria cocos Wolf extracts decreased melanin synthesis in B16F10. And then this inhibition of melanogenesis was provoked by regulation of tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase and MITF expression. Moreover, Poria cocos Wolf extracts contained cream improved skin tone using increase of bright value. Overall, these results provide evidence to potential agent for whitening to be used in cosmetic products.

A New Depigmenting-Antifungal Methylated Grindelane from Grindelia chiloensis.

The new methylated grindelane diterpenoid, 7ß-hydroxy-8(17)-dehydrogrindelic acid (1b), together with the known 7α-hydroxy-8(17)-dehydrogrindelic acid (2a), 6-oxogrindelic acid (3a), 4ß-hydroxy-6-oxo-19-norgrindelic (4a), 19-hydroxygrindelic acid (5a), 18-hydroxygrindelic acid (6a), 4α-carboxygrindelic acid (7a), 17-hydroxygrindelic acid (8a), 6α-hydroxygrindelic acid (9a), 8,17-bisnor-8-oxagrindelic acid (10a), 7α,8α-epoxygrindelic acid (11a), and strictanonic acid (12a) as methyl esters were obtained from an Argentine collection of Grindelia chiloensis (Cornel.) Cabrera. Their structures and relative configurations were established on the basis of spectroscopic analysis. CHCl3 extract from the aerial parts and their pure compounds were evaluated for their antifungal and depigmenting effects. Methyl ester derivative of 10a (10b) exhibited a remarkable mycelial growth inhibition against Botritis cinerea with an IC50 of 13.5 µg ml-1 . While the new grindelane 1b exerted a clear color reduction of the yellow-orange pigment developed by Fusarium oxysporum against UV-induced damage.

The depigmenting effect of natural resorcinol type polyphenols Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from the roots of morus australis.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Morus australis, one of the major Morus species growing in East Asia, is rich in phenolic compounds. The extract of M. australis has been used as skin whitening components for a long period. The action mechanisms of its principal constituents are still unclear. This study aims to evaluate the skin lightening effects of phenolic compounds extracted from the root of M. australis in different melanocyte systems and artificial skin models. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The depigmenting effect of resorcinol type polyphenols (RTPs) from the root extract of M. australis was evaluated in murine b16 and melan-a cell lines using a combined sulforhodamine B assay. Tyrosinase activity and the expression of melanogenesis proteins were evaluated for the mechanism study. The artificial skin model is used as a replacement of the animal test. RESULTS: Only Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T were found to have significant depigmenting effects in both murine b16 and melan-a cell lines. Their depigmenting mechanisms are slightly different in the two cell systems. In b16 cells, Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T, together with the other two RTPs, induced post-transcriptional degradations of MITF without suppressing its mRNA expression, leading to significant decreases of TRP-1 and TRP-2 production. While in melan-a cells, the levels of tyrosinase families were suppressed via MITF downregulation at both transcription and translation level by RTPs, with Kuwanon O inducing the greatest suppression. Further evaluations in artificial skin model demonstrated the outstanding depigmenting effects of Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T. CONCLUSIONS: Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from M.australis root extract are two potential skin whitening ingredients. To screen resorcinol flavonone derivatives with an isoprenyl group in the Diels-Alder substituent might be an option for the search of potent hypopigmenting agents from plants.

Optimization of extraction conditions for osthol, a melanogenesis inhibitor from Cnidium monnieri fruits.

CONTEXT: Coumarin derivatives have been reported to inhibit melanin biosynthesis. OBJECTIVE: The melanogenesis inhibitory activity of osthol, a major coumarin of the fruits of Cnidium monnieri Cusson (Umbelliferae), and optimized extraction conditions for the maximum yield from the isolation of osthol from C. monnieri fruits were investigated. MATERIALS AND METHODS: B16F10 melanomas were treated with osthol at concentration of 1, 3, and 10 µM for 72 h. The expression of melanogenesis genes, such as tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 was also assessed. For optimization, extraction factors such as extraction solvent, extraction time, and sample/solvent ratio were tested and optimized for maximum yield of osthol using response surface methodology with the Box-Behnken design (BBD). RESULTS: Osthol inhibits melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells with an IC50 value of 4.9 µM. The melanogenesis inhibitory activity of osthol was achieved not by direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity but by inhibiting melanogenic enzyme expressions, such as tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. The optimal condition was obtained as a sample/solvent ratio, 1500 mg/10 ml; an extraction time 30.3 min; and a methanol concentration of 97.7%. The osthol yield under optimal conditions was found to be 15.0 mg/g dried samples, which were well matched with the predicted value of 14.9 mg/g dried samples. CONCLUSION: These results will provide useful information about optimized extraction conditions for the development of osthol as cosmetic therapeutics to reduce skin hyperpigmentation.

Anti-melanogenic effects of Aster spathulifolius extract in UVB-exposed C57BL/6J mice and B16F10 melanoma cells through the regulation of MAPK/ERK and AKT/GSK3ß signalling.

OBJECTIVES: Pharmacological studies of Aster spathulifolius Maxim(AS) have demonstrated its anti-allergy, anti-viral and anti-obesity effects, however, its anti-melanogenic effects is still unclear. In this study, the effects of AS extract (ASE) on the inhibition of melanin synthesis were investigated in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: To perform this study, the contents of melanin and tyrosinase activity were analysed in B16F10 melanoma cells. Western blotting was carried out to determine the underlyling mechanism. Additionally, we investigated the effect of this extract on hyperpigmentation in C57bL/6J mice induced by 3, 6 and 9 weeks of UVB irradiation. KEY FINDINGS: AS extract led to reduced melanin synthesis through the regulation of MITF and its downstream signals. Furthermore, ASE increased the phosphorylation of MAPK/ERK and Akt/GSK3ß signalling pathway components. In vivo study, hypopigmentation effects were also observed. The melanocyte activity and the distribution of melanin granules were decreased in UVB-irradiated mice treated with ASE. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that the ASE may be promising as an active anti-melanogenic component, and further investigations should be performed regarding its potential as a whitening agent in the field of cosmetics.

Antimelanogenic Effects of Picrionoside A Isolated from the Leaves of Korean Ginseng.

This study was initiated to isolate active metabolites from the leaves of Panax ginseng. Among them, picrionoside A, a megastigmane glucoside, was isolated from the leaves of P. ginseng C. A. MAYER and its chemical structure was determined based on spectroscopic methods, including FAB-MS, one-dimensional (1D)-NMR, 2D-NMR, and IR spectroscopy. Picrionoside A from P. ginseng has not been investigated previously, and its biological or pharmaceutical activities have not been reported elsewhere. The IC50 value of mushroom tyrosinase-inhibitory activity of picrionoside A was 9.8 µM, and the rate of inhibition of synthesized melanin content in melan-a cells was 17.1% at a concentration of 80 µM without cytotoxicity. Furthermore, picrionoside A dramatically reduced body pigmentation in the zebrafish model. Taken together, the results suggest that picrionoside A isolated from the leaves of P. ginseng may be an effective skin-whitening agent that could be a potent candidate material in the cosmetic industry.

Identification of HSP70-inducing activity in Arnica montana extract and purification and characterization of HSP70-inducers.

BACKGROUND: The expression of heat shock proteins (HSPs), particularly HSP70, is receiving considerable attention in the field of cosmetics, particularly given our recent report that ultraviolet-induced melanin production, skin damage and wrinkle formation were all suppressed in transgenic mice expressing HSP70. OBJECTIVE: In the present study, we searched for HSP70-inducers from a library of herbal extracts that have already been approved as quasi-pharmaceutical products in Japan. We selected an ethanol extract of Arnica montana (A. montana), based on its high HSP70-inducing activity and low cytotoxicity. METHODS: Cell viability was determined by MTT method and expression of HPS70 was monitored by immunoblotting analysis. RESULTS: From the extract, we purified and identified eight sesquiterpene lactones (AM1-8) as HSP70-inducers, among which AM-2 (helenalin 2-methylbutyrate) was selected due to its good HSP70-inducing properties and low cytotoxicity. Treatment of cultured mouse melanoma cells with AM-2 or A. montana extract up-regulated the expression of HSP70 in a dose-dependent manner. This treatment also activated heat shock factor-1, a transcription factor for hsp genes. Furthermore, pre-treatment of cells with AM-2 or A. montana extract decreased melanin production and expression and activity of tyrosinase. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that AM-2 and A. montana extract could be beneficial for use in hypopigmenting cosmetics as a consequence of their stimulatory effects on HSP70 expression.

Melanogenesis inhibitory effect of aerial part of Pueraria thunbergiana in vitro and in vivo.

Melanin is major factor that determines skin color as well as one of the defense systems that prevent the UV-induced damage. In case of abnormal concentration of melanin, skin diseases or problems occur such as albinism, leukoplakia, melasma, freckles, moles, and lentigo. With the lifespan of humans has been extended, importance of 'life quality' has been increased. White and clean skin is very important part of the satisfaction of appearance, especially for Asia women. The aim of this study was to find an anti-melanogenesis activity for which the aerial part of Pueraria thunbergiana can be utilized based on the increase in demands for cosmetics, particularly natural products. We demonstrated anti-pigmentation effects of aerial part of P. thunbergiana by measuring melanin content and through staining in the B16F10 melanoma cell line. The aerial part of P. thunbergiana decreased tyrosinase activity significantly in B16F10 cell cultures, while there is no direct effect on enzyme in cell-free conditions. To define the mechanisms, real-time PCR, western blot, glucosidase activity and antioxidant activity assay were implemented. As results, we demonstrated that aerial part of P. thunbergiana has anti-melanogenesis activity via two mechanisms. One is downgrading microphthalmia-associated transcription factor by activating Akt/GSK-3ß. Consequently, transcription of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 is decreased. Another is interrupting maturation of tyrosinase through inhibiting α-glucosidase. Furthermore, aerial part of P. thunbergiana showed great efficacy on pigmentation in vivo. These results suggest that aerial part of P. thunbergiana can be used as an anti-melanogenic agent.

Inhibitory effects of adlay extract on melanin production and cellular oxygen stress in B16F10 melanoma cells.

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of adlay extract on melanin production and the antioxidant characteristics of the extract. The seeds were extracted by the supercritical fluid CO2 extraction (SFE) method. The effect of adlay extract on melanin production was evaluated using mushroom tyrosinase activity assay, intracellular tyrosinase activity, antioxidant properties and melanin content. Those assays were performed spectrophotometrically. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by western blotting. The results revealed that the adlay extract suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreased the amount of melanin in B16F10 cells. The adlay extract decreased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2). The extract also exhibited antioxidant characteristics such as free radical scavenging capacity and reducing power. It effectively decreased intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in B16F10 cells. We concluded that the adlay extract inhibits melanin production by down-regulation of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2. The antioxidant properties of the extract may also contribute to the inhibition of melanogenesis. The adlay extract can therefore be applied as an inhibitor of melanogenesis and could also act as a natural antioxidant in skin care products.

Hypo-pigmenting effect of sesquiterpenes from Inula britannica in B16 melanoma cells.

During the course of screens to identify anti-melanogenic agents from natural resources, we found that the methanol extract of the dried flower of Inula britannica L. inhibited melanin synthesis in cultured melanoma cells stimulated with 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX). A bioassay-guided isolation of the chloroform fraction of the I. britannica using an in vitro melanogenesis inhibition assay led to the isolation of sesquiterpenes, 1-O-acetylbritannilactone (1), britannilactone (2) and neobritannilactone B (3). Compounds 1 and 2 significantly reduced melanin production in a dose-dependent manner with IC50 values of 13.3 and 15.5 µM, respectively, whereas compound 3 was found to be cytotoxic. Compound 1 also inhibited the tyrosinase activity only in cell based-systems. Western blot analysis indicated that compound 1 inhibited melanogenesis by activating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and Akt signaling and also inhibiting cAMP related binding protein, which regulates its downstream pathway, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 and TRP-2. These results demonstrated that compound 1, a major sesquiterpene from the flowers of I. britannica, exhibited anti-melanogenic activity by suppression of tyrosinase expression via ERK and Akt signaling. Taken together, our results suggest that these compounds may act as potent natural skin-lightening agents.

Acanthoic acid inhibits melanogenesis through tyrosinase downregulation and melanogenic gene expression in B16 melanoma cells.

The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro inhibitory effects of acanthoic acid (ACAN), isolated from Acanthopanax koreanum, on melanogenesis and its related enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 in B16 melanoma cells. We found that ACAN significantly attenuates melanin synthesis and reduces the activity of intracellular tyrosinase, the rate-limiting melanogenic enzyme. Western blot analysis showed that ACAN also decreases tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 protein expression. In addition, ACAN significantly decreased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key regulator of melanogenesis. These results indicate that ACAN effectively inhibits melanin biosynthesis through down-regulation of MITF and thus could be useful as a new skin-whitening agent.

Arbutin production via biotransformation of hydroquinone in in vitro cultures of Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott.

Arbutin (hydroquinone ß-D-glucoside) is a compound of plant origin possessing valuable therapeutic (urinary tract disinfection) and cosmetic (skin whitening) properties, which can be obtained from in vitro cultures of plants belonging to different taxa via biotransformation of exogenously supplemented hydroquinone. Agitating cultures of Aronia melanocarpa were maintained on the Murashige and Skoog medium containing growth regulators: the cytokinin - BAP (6-benzylaminopurine), 2 mg/l and the auxin NAA (α-naphthaleneacetic acid), 2 mg/l. The biomass was cultured for 2 weeks and then hydroquinone was supplemented at the following doses: 96, 144, 192, 288 and 384 mg/l either undivided or divided into two or three portions added at 24-hour intervals. The content of the reaction product - arbutin, was determined using an HPLC method in methanolic extracts from biomass and lyophilized medium samples collected 24 hours after the addition of the last precursor dose. The total amounts of arbutin were very diverse, from 2.71 to 8.27 g/100g d.w. The production of arbutin rose with increasing hydroquinone concentration. The maximum content of the product was observed after hydroquinone addition at 384 mg/l divided into two portions. Biotransformation efficiency also varied widely, ranging from 37.04% do 73.80%. The identity of the product - arbutin, after its isolation and purification was confirmed by spectral analysis ((1)H-NMR spectrum). The maximum amount of arbutin obtained was higher than that required by the latest 9(th) Edition of the Polish Pharmacopoeia and by the newest 8th Edithion of European Pharmacopoeia for Uvae ursi folium (7.0 g/100g d.w.), and is interesting from practical point of view.

Inhibition of melanin content by Punicalagins in the super fruit pomegranate (Punica granatum).

Current efforts to develop effective skin lightening products through the inhibition of melanin production have focused on compounds that inhibit the function and activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors, such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin, have been reported to cause skin irritation or acute dermatitis, raising concerns about the safety of these compounds. As a result, there is a need for safe natural ingredients that show effective skin lightening. In this report, we have identified a natural ingredient, pomegranate fruit extract, that inhibits melanin production in melanocytes and shows potential for use as a cosmetic skin lightening agent. In addition, we have identified a polyphenolic compound, punicalagins, as the active melanin inhibitor in pomegranate fruit extract based on its capacity to directly inhibit melanin production.

Biocatalytic conversion of aloeresin A to aloesin.

Leaf exudates from Aloe species, such as the Southern African Aloe ferox, are used in traditional medicines for both humans and livestock. This includes aloesin, a skin bleaching product that inhibits the synthesis of melanin. Aloesin, (a C-glycoside-5-methylchromone) can be released from aloeresin A, an ester of aloesin, through hydrolysis. The objective of the current study was to identify an enzymatic hydrolysis method for converting aloeresin A to aloesin, resulting in increased concentrations of aloesin in the aloe bitters extract. More than 70 commercially available hydrolytic enzymes were screened for the conversion of aloeresin A. An esterase (ESL001-02) from Diversa, a lipase (Novozym 388) and a protease (Aspergillus oryzae) preparation were identified during screening as being capable of providing conversion of pure aloeresin A, with the protease giving the best conversion (~100%). It was found that a contaminating enzyme in Novo 388 was responsible for the conversion of aloeresin A to aloesin. This contaminating enzyme, possibly a protease, was able to give almost complete conversion using crude aloe bitters extract, doubling the concentration of aloesin in aloe bitters extract via the hydrolysis of aloeresin A.