Novel anti-dandruff shampoo incorporated with ketoconazole-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract.

BACKGROUND: Dandruff caused by Malassezia furfur is a prevailing fungal infection. Although ketoconazole (KTZ) is widely intended for anti-dandruff treatment, poor solubility, and epidermal permeability limits its use and the marketed KTZ shampoo adversely effects scalp and hair. OBJECTIVE: To prepare a novel shampoo loaded with KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract and evaluate its antifungal activity. METHODS: The KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles was prepared by green synthesis and was characterized by UV, FTIR, XRD, and the drug entrapment efficiency was investigated. The antifungal activity of the nanoparticles with respect to standard drug, KTZ was tested against Malassezia furfur. Further, a novel antidandruff shampoo was developed by incorporating the prepared nanoparticles into the shampoo base. RESULTS: The formation of KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles was confirmed by UV and FTIR analysis. XRD analysis confirmed the amorphous phase of KTZ in nanoparticles. The drug entrapment efficiency was found to be 91.84%. The prepared nanoparticles showed enhanced activity against Malassezia furfur compared to drug of choice, KTZ (1%). The evaluation of shampoo showed an ideal result. CONCLUSION: KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles loaded novel shampoo in comparison to marketed anti-dandruff shampoo could be an effective alternate for the treatment of dandruff.

Vitamins and their derivatives synergistically promote hair shaft elongation ex vivo via PlGF/VEGFR-1 signalling activation.

BACKGROUND: Although vitamins or their derivatives (Vits), such as panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine, have been widely used in topical hair care products, their efficacy and mode of action have been insufficiently studied. OBJECTIVE: To elucidate the biological influence of Vits on hair follicles and determine the underlying mechanisms. METHODS: A mouse vibrissa hair follicle organ culture model was utilized to evaluate the effects of Vits on hair shaft elongation. Gene and protein expression analyses and histological investigations were conducted to elucidate the responsible mechanisms. A human hair follicle cell culture was used to assess the clinical relevance. RESULTS: In organ culture models, the combination of panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine (namely, PPT) supplementation significantly promoted hair shaft elongation. PPT treatment enhanced hair matrix cell proliferation by 1.9-fold compared to controls, as demonstrated by Ki67-positive immunoreactivity. PPT-treated mouse dermal papillae exhibited upregulated Placental growth factor (Plgf) by 1.6-fold compared to controls. Importantly, the addition of PlGF neutralizing antibodies to the ex vivo culture diminished the promotive effect on hair growth and increase in VEGFR-1 phosphorylation achieved by PPT. A VEGFR-1 inhibitor also inhibited the promotion of hair growth. Microarray analysis suggested synergistic summation of individual Vits' bioactivity, putatively explaining the effect of PPT. Moreover, PPT increased PlGF secretion in cultured human dermal papilla cells. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggested that PPT promoted hair shaft elongation by activating PlGF/VEGFR-1 signalling. The current study can shed light on the previously underrepresented advantage of utilizing Vits in hair care products.

Organoleptic and physicochemical properties of natural-based herbal shampoo formulations with Cyclea peltata as a key ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Synthetic shampoos have toxic chemical agents like chemicals such as parabens and sodium lauryl sulfate which damage the hair. To combat this issue, the use of natural herbal shampoos, as opposed to synthetic shampoos, is becoming increasingly popular. One of the many medicinal plants present in Karnataka and Kerala is Cyclea peltata. This plant has long been known to assist in wound healing, allergy relief, and hair and scalp improvement, as well as serving as a coolant for hair applications. OBJECTIVE: The key subject of this research was the preparation of plant extracts and fermentation of Cyclea peltata leaf extract with Lactobacillus plantarum, resulting in the formulation of an herbal shampoo. METHOD: The leaf extract contained alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acid, saponins, and proteins, according to previous research by this group. The fermented product showed the presence of lactic acid, which was a boon for shampoo base as it protects the hair from the sunlight and improves the texture and strength of hair fibers. Cyclea peltata was used as the main ingredient in herbal shampoo formulations, along with other herbal ingredients, and the formulated shampoo was characterized for its different organoleptic (Color, odor) and physicochemical properties (pH, solid content, wettability, emulsification, and foam stability) to find the best formulation. RESULT: Formulation H2 showed better organoleptic and physicochemical properties and thus was chosen as the best formulation among the 11 formulations. CONCLUSION: Formulation H2 is regarded as the best formulation based on the results of the physicochemical tests (Pleasant odor, pH 3.01, solid content of 5.75%, wettability of 1.68 s, and percentage emulsification of 68.75%).

[Antalgic effects of socio-aesthetics in cancer patients]. / Effets antalgiques de la socio-esthétique chez les patients atteints de cancer.

INTRODUCTION: Socio-aesthetics is the delivery appropriate beauty care in a population weakened by a physical, psychological and/or social attack. It has found its place in indications in both medical (especially in oncology) and social settings. It offers many types of treatments including facials, foot beauty, make-up, wig tips, body massage, product advice, cosmetic manicure, varnishing… The main purpose of this study was to evaluate pain reduction as a result of socio-aesthetics. METHODS: One hundred and eighty patients were offered a socio-aesthetic session between 12/01/2018 and 11/30/2019. One hundred and fifty-seven (87,2%) accepted the care (56.7% of women/43.3% of men, regardless of the type of cancer) and all agreed to complete a questionnaire on the type of treatment received, the benefits felt and a Likert pain assessment scale before and after the treatment. RESULTS: No patient experienced an increase in pain after the socio-aesthetic care. In the general population, the mean pain evaluation was rated at 1.31/10 and 0.78/10 before and after the session respectively, p<10-5. By selecting patients experiencing pain before treatment (40 patients, 28.0% of the total population), the mean pain evaluation was 4.27/10 and 2.52/10 before and after the treatment respectively, p<10-5. Pain was significantly reduced by massage. No patient found the socio-aesthetic treatment unnecessary. CONCLUSION: Socio-aesthetics is definitely a supportive care in oncology as it is significantly analgesic. It is easily accepted by men and regardless of the type of cancer. Researchers should conduct more studies on its impact on the quality of life.

Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners.

BACKGROUND: Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning. METHODS: The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer. RESULTS: The extract antioxidant had an IC50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair. CONCLUSION: The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling.

CONTEXTE: les réactions aux traitements cosmétiques varient d'un type de cheveux à l'autre. Ainsi, de nombreuses options doivent être mises à disposition des consommateurs. Cette étude avait pour objectif d'évaluer l'utilisation d'un extrait antioxydant de Dicerocaryum senecioides en vue de proposer de nouveaux choix de produits actifs pour les mises en plis semi-permanentes et le conditionnement capillaire. MÉTHODES: les agents phytochimiques antioxydants ont d'abord été identifiés et isolés par chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM) et par pulvérisation d'agents révélateurs. La puissance antioxydante a été déterminée par une méthode de piégeage antiradicalaire à l'aide du DPPH et par un procédé de puissance de réduction du fer. L'extrait a été incorporé dans deux formulations différentes pour obtenir la permanente (semi-permanentes biologiques) et l'après-shampooing capillaire antioxydant. Les performances des formulations ont été évaluées selon des critères de bouclage et conditionnement capillaires sur des cheveux de types asiatiques et africains. L'évaluation des lésions capillaires reposait sur un examen de la surface des échantillons traités à l'aide d'un spectromètre infrarouge à transformée de Fourier en réflectance totale atténuée (attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infra-red spectrometer, ATR-FTIR) et sur une quantification des protéines perdues à l'aide d'un spectrophotomètre à ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis). RÉSULTATS: l'extrait antioxydant présentait une concentration inhibitrice médiane (IC50 ) de 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml, d'où une plus grande puissance antioxydante par rapport aux produits témoins, à savoir la quercétine (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) et l'acide ascorbique (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). La permanente présentait une plus faible capacité de bouclage, révélée par un taux de fixation de la permanente de 85.10 ± 3.92 % et de 81.35 ± 2.35 % pour les cheveux asiatiques et africains respectivement, tandis que le produit disponible dans le commerce, à savoir le thioglycolate d'ammonium (ATG), donnait des taux de 96.05 ± 1.70 % et de 93.60 ± 2.21 % dans les mêmes conditions. Le bouclage des cheveux à l'aide de la permanente a entraîné moins de lésions oxydatives, avec des zones de pics d'oxydation de 3.37 ± 0.09 et de 3.71 ± 0.03, ainsi que des pertes protéiques plus faibles, de 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg et de 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg sur les échantillons de cheveux asiatiques et africains respectivement. L'application de l'après-shampooing antioxydant a permis de réduire de 1.15 unité les zones de pics d'oxydation due à l'ATG sur les échantillons de cheveux asiatiques et la permanente a permis de traiter ces mêmes échantillons à raison de 0.48 unité. L'après-shampooing antioxydant s'est également avéré efficace pour réduire les lésions causées par les rayons UV sur les échantillons traités par ATG, de 1.06 unité sur les cheveux africains et de 1.09 unité sur les cheveux asiatiques. CONCLUSION: les résultats montrent que les extraits antioxydants de Dicerocaryum senecioides constituent une option prometteuse et plus sûre pour le conditionnement capillaire et les mises en pli semi-permanentes.

Diatomite encapsulated AgNPs as novel hair dye cosmetics: Preparation, performance, and toxicity.

Naturally-occurring diatomite has been successfully utilised as a unique encapsulating material to obtain a highly dispersed suspension of uniformly-sized silver nanoparticles (AgNPs). Plant derived gallic acid was used as the reducing and capping agent. High-resolution scanning and transmission electron microscopy results confirmed the attachment of AgNPs on the surface of diatom frustule and maintained an excellent dispersion stability against particle aggregation. The AgNPs obtained were employed for the colouration of bleached human hair owing to the local surface plasmonic absorption (LSPR) of the AgNPs. The effects of Ag/diatomite concentration, dyeing pH, temperature and time on the produced colour were investigated. Hair fibres treated under optimised conditions display good colour fastness toward solar radiation. The morphology and chemical composition of AgNP-dyed hair were determined by energy-dispersive spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analyses. The biocompatibility of the Ag/diatomite composite, AgNPs, and the dyebaths were confirmed by in vitro acute dermal and ocular toxicity tests. The diatomite supporting AgNPs therefore hold good promise and enormous potential to be exploited for sustainable dyeing of human hair.

Preparation and evaluation of a free surfactant herbal shampoo with Acanthophyllum Squarrosum Saponins.

BACKGROUND: Shampoos remove fat and pus from the skin and hair. The most critical part of these products is their cleansing properties; therefore, the amount of shampoo cleanser plays an essential role in consumer acceptance. AIM: The production of herbal shampoos from root saponins in Hawthorn can lead to the removal of these substances from shampoos. Squarrosum is one of the 23 Acanthophyllum species that is native to Iran. The root of this plant has been used traditionally as a consumption detergent due to the presence of saponins. METHOD: To make the shampoo, saponins were extracted through several steps by a solvent after Acanthophyllum squarrosum scientific specimens had been prepared and identified The shampoo's fatigue strength was tested using the Ross-Miles method, and its cleansing power was assessed using Thompson's test. RESULTS: The optimum formula with 15% total saponins content was evaluated. CONCLUSION: This liquid shampoo has an excellent cleansing effect, is suitable for regular hair; has pseudoplastic rheology; and has acceptable pH, surface tension, and organoleptic stability characteristics.

Targeting Wnt/ß-Catenin Pathway for Developing Therapies for Hair Loss.

Persistent hair loss is a major cause of psychological distress and compromised quality of life in millions of people worldwide. Remarkable progress has been made in understanding the molecular basis of hair loss and identifying valid intracellular targets for designing effective therapies for hair loss treatment. Whereas a variety of growth factors and signaling pathways have been implicated in hair cycling process, the activation of Wnt/ß-catenin signaling plays a central role in hair follicle regeneration. Several plant-derived chemicals have been reported to promote hair growth by activating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling in various in vitro and in vivo studies. This mini-review sheds light on the role of Wnt/ß-catenin in promoting hair growth and the current progress in designing hair loss therapies by targeting this signaling pathway.

Physiology and Medical Treatments for Alopecia.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common hair loss disorder in men and women. The characteristic and reproducible balding pattern in AGA negatively affects self-image and the external perceptions of the balding patient. The phenotypical changes are driven by dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and its precursor testosterone. DHT induces follicle miniaturization and hair cycle changes until resulting hairs no longer extrude through the skin surface. AGA is inherited in a polygenetic pattern and is susceptible to epigenetic and environmental factors. Currently, minoxidil, finasteride, and photolaser therapy are the only Food and Drug Administration-approved medical treatments for AGA.

Study of the composition of 140 shampoos: similarities and differences depending on the sales channel used.

Shampoo is a hair care product designed to clean the skin and hair of the scalp. Among the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents. The purpose of this study was to identify the composition of 140 shampoos available in pharmacies, in stores of a mass-market chain, or from mail-order retailers. Forty-one shampoos were advertised as "gentle", 12 as specially formulated for infants, 35 as anti-dandruff, and 52 without any particular claim. We analysed the cleansing base, preservatives, and anti-dandruff agents when relevant and identified the allergens regardless of whether or not they are listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as one of the 26 regulated substances. We discovered that unlike shampoos sold in stores of a mass-market chain and those available from mail-order retailers, those sold in pharmacies expose users to some of the 26 substances listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. We also determined that baby shampoos sold in pharmacies are allergen-free. Regarding anti-dandruff formulations, the largest variety of active ingredients was found in shampoos sold in pharmacies. Overall, the most common active ingredients were olamines, zinc pyrithione, azoles, selenium disulphide, and plant extracts. Shampoos sold in pharmacies appear to contain fewer allergens listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 compared to those sold elsewhere.

Proprietary Herbal Extract Downregulates the Gene Expression of IL-1α in HaCaT Cells: Possible Implications Against Nonscarring Alopecia.

BACKGROUND: Currently while, topical minoxidil and oral finasteride are the only medications approved in androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the cause oriented treatment and immunsupressive treatment are being performed in telogen effluvium (TE) and alopecia areata (AA) respectively. Considering the inflammatory factors in the pathogenesis of these three nonscarring alopecia forms, we have formulated a mixture for topical usage composed of six different herbal extracts (HE) which have already known antiinflammatory and antioxidant features. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In addition to performing the phytochemical analysis of HE, we detected the gene expression level of IL-1α, the crucial hair loss mediator, for the putative efficacy in nonscarring alopecia. Cell proliferation assay was performed by XTT reagent. After determination of non-cytotoxic concentration, HaCaT cells were treated with HE. RNA isolations were carried out from both non-treated and treated cell groups by using TRI-reagent. Gene expressions of IL-1α and as control GAPDH were determined by RT-qPCR analysis. RESULTS: Results were represented as "IL-1α/GAPDH Fold Change". HE solution caused statistically significant downregulation of IL-1α gene expressions (p<0.0001), compared to untreated control cells. HE treatment ended up with 0.1900 fold change for IL-1α. CONCLUSION: IL-1α is a direct growth inhibitory agent in hair follicles and an important actor in the pathogenesis of AGA , TE, and AA. Considering together the vitamins, flavonoids, and trace elements identified in the phytochemical analyses and downregulation of IL-1α in HaCaT cells, our HE may be an auxiliary agent in the therapy of these three nonscarring alopecia forms.

The myrtus communis L. solution versus ketoconazole shampoo in treatment of dandruff: A double blinded randomized clinical trial.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of myrtus communis L. solution in the treatment of dandruff and to compare it with ketoconazole. METHODS: This double-blind randomised clinical trial was conducted at Shiraz University of Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran, from December 2015 to August 2016, and comprised patients with dandruff aged 18-60 years visiting the dermatology out-patient clinic. The subjects were randomised into two equal groups. The treatment group received myrtus communis L. solution and a placebo shampoo, while the control group received ketoconazole shampoo and a placebo solution. The total duration of the study for each subject was one month and subjects in both groups used their respective interventions 8 times during that period. The parameters studied were pruritus, erythema, severity of scaling, and the extent of scalp involvement. All subjects underwent scalp scaling tests at the beginning, after 10 days and at the end of the 30th day. SPSS 21 was used for data analysis. RESULTS: Of the 90 individuals, there were 45(50%) in each of the two groups. However, 74(82%) subjects completed the third visit and, of them, there were 37(50%) in each group. Both groups showed significant improvement in all outcome measures (p<0.001). There were no significant differences between the groups in terms of efficacy, satisfaction rate and side effects (p>0.05 for each outcome). CONCLUSIONS: Myrtus solution was found to be effective in the treatment of dandruff.

A proprietary herbal extract against hair loss in androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium: a placebo-controlled, single-blind, clinical-instrumental study.

INTRODUCTION: Currently there are only a limited number of drugs available for treatment of androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium. However, certain plants and their standardized extracts may provide some clinical benefits against hair loss. We formulated a herbal shampoo and a solution to evaluate their efficacy, safety, and synergy in hair loss. METHODS: We conducted a randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blind, clinical and instrumental study for 6 months on 120 subjects with androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium, confirmed by pull test and phototricogram. Each subject was examined monthly. At the end of the study, a self-assessment test was carried out. RESULTS: Herbal formulations were found to be more effective in preventing and reducing hair loss than placebo at every assessment point. Anagen/telogen ratios improved significantly in the study group. In addition, concomitant use of the shampoo and solution were found to be more effective than single product use. CONCLUSION: We interpret this eutrophic effect for scalp hair as the final outcome of the entire content of our herbal formula, which has antiandrogenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, angiogenic, and hair-stimulating features. In combination, these features help prevent hair from falling out and reducing hair loss.

Photoprotective Effects of a Multifunctional Hair Care Formulation Containing Botanical Extracts, Vitamins, and UV Filters.

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional hair care formulation-Hair BB Cream-containing botanical extracts of Camellia sinensis, Vitis vinifera, and Euterpe orleacea, vitamins, amino acids, UV filters, and silicones for hair treatment and prevention of UV damages. The in vitro antioxidant activity of the botanical extracts was evaluated using the DPPH and chemiluminescence methods. A tensile test, combability, shine, and image analysis were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation. To evaluate protection against UV damage, the hair strands were submitted to UV radiation without and with the application of the Hair BB Cream. The results showed that the application of the Hair BB Cream promoted a reduction in combability values and an increase in break stress and gloss values. After exposure to UV radiation, the hair treated with the BB Cream formulation showed no difference in the mechanical properties test, indicating protection against UV damage. In conclusion, the multifunctional formulation showed several benefits of single product acting in the prevention of UV damage and the treatment of hair damage. Thus, the Hair BB Cream proposed can be suggested as an effective multifunctional hair care product.

Fragrance contact allergens in 5588 cosmetic products identified through a novel smartphone application.

BACKGROUND: More than 25% of the adult European population suffers from contact allergy, with fragrance substances recognized as one of the main causes. Since 2005, 26 fragrance contact allergens have been mandatory to label in cosmetic products within the EU if present at 10 ppm or above in leave-on and 100 ppm or above in wash-off cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To examine exposure, based on ingredient labelling, to the 26 fragrances in a sample of 5588 fragranced cosmetic products. METHODS: The investigated products were identified through a novel, non-profit smartphone application (app), designed to provide information to consumers about chemical substances in cosmetic products. Products registered through the app between December 2015 and October 2016 were label checked according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) for the presence of the 26 fragrance substances or the wording 'fragrance/parfum/aroma'. RESULTS: The largest product categories investigated were 'cream, lotion and oil' (n = 1192), 'shampoo and conditioner' (n = 968) and 'deodorants' (n = 632). Among cosmetic products labelled to contain at least one of the 26 fragrances, 85.5% and 73.9% contained at least two and at least three of the 26 fragrances, respectively. Linalool (49.5%) and limonene (48.5%) were labelled most often among all investigated products. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC/Lyral® ) was found in 13.5% of deodorants. Six of the 26 fragrance substances were labelled on less than one per cent of all products, including the natural extracts Evernia furfuracea (tree moss) and Evernia prunastri (oak moss). A total of 329 (5.9%) products had one or more of the 26 fragrance substances labelled but did not have 'parfum/fragrance/aroma' listed on the label. CONCLUSIONS: Consumers are widely exposed to, often multiple, well-established fragrance contact allergens through various cosmetic products intended for daily use. Several fragrance substances that are common causes of contact allergy were rarely labelled in this large sample of cosmetic products.

Incubatory environment of the scalp impacts pre-emergent hair to affect post-emergent hair cuticle integrity.

OBJECTIVES: To determine whether the oxidative stress transmitted to newly grown hair from an unhealthy scalp has physical consequences to the cuticular condition and function. METHODS: A uniquely designed 24-week clinical study included 8 weeks of pretreatment with a cosmetic shampoo and 16 weeks of treatment with either a potentiated zinc pyrithione (ZPT) antidandruff shampoo or a placebo cosmetic shampoo. This clinical design allowed the growth and acquisition of hair samples under conditions of varying but known scalp health as a result of treating a dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis (D/SD) population. Two complementary methods were used to characterize the integrity of the cuticular surface. Hair surface hydrophobicity was assessed by quantifying water wetting force using a Wilhelmy balance method. Surface structure and porosity were assessed using dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) to gravimetrically quantify water sorption. RESULTS: Chemical oxidative stress to pre-emergent hair has been shown to have negative consequences to hair surface structure. Compared to a placebo shampoo control, use of a potentiated ZPT shampoo improved scalp health and significantly improved the following attributes associated with healthy hair: hair surface hydrophobicity (surface energy) and cuticular moisture barrier effectiveness (dynamic vapor sorption). CONCLUSIONS: Pre-emergent hair can be negatively impacted by the oxidative stress that occurs with an unhealthy scalp, possibly due to metabolic activity of resident microbes. Manifestations of the oxidative stress include altered cuticle surface properties that are responsible for its protective function; these effects are similar in type to those observed by bleaching post-emergent hair. These alterations have the potential to make the hair, once emerged from the scalp, more susceptible to the cumulative physical and chemical insults responsible for hair feel and look, fiber integrity, and overall retention.