The effect of isolates from Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) alston, a plant used as a skin lightning agent, on melanin production and tyrosinase inhibition.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The Zulu and Xhosa people of South Africa use the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii as a skin-lightning cosmetic. AIM OF THE STUDY: To isolate and identify compounds responsible for the skin lightning properties from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii and to evaluate their cytotoxicity towards skin cells. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Extracts from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii were isolated using chromatographic methods and structures were determined using NMR, IR and MS analysis. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity and the ability to inhibit the production of melanin were determined using human primary epidermal melanocyte cells. Cytoxicity was established using the same melanocytes and a neutral red assay. RESULTS: One previously undescribed compound, ent-atis-16-en-19-al (1) along with the known ent-atis-16-en-19-oic acid (2), ent-atis-16-en-19-ol (3), ent-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (4), ent-kaur-16-en-19-al (5), ent-manoyl oxide (6), guinesine A (7), guinesine B (8), guinesine C (9), lichenxanthone (10), 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethyl benzoic acid methyl ester (11), lynoside (12), lupeol (13), ß-amyrin (14), docosyl ferulate (15), stigmasterol, sitosterol and sitosterol-O-glucoside were isolated in this investigation. An impure fraction containing compound 3 was acetylated to obtain 19-acetoxy-ent-atis-16-ene (3a). Compounds 10 and 11 are usually isolated from lichen, hence they are possible contaminants of lichen harvested with the bark. Compounds 1, 3a, 5-14 were not significantly cytotoxic to the primary epidermal melanocyte cells (P > 0.05) when compared to the negative and positive controls (DMSO, 0.1% and hydrogen peroxide, 30 wt% in water). Inhibition of tyrosinase was significantly greater with respect to the negative control (P < 0.001) for compounds 3a, 5-8 and 9-10 at 10 µM and for compounds 5-8 and 9-10 at 100 µM. Compared to hydroquinone (the positive control) at 10 µM, the level of inhibition was comparable or to that of compounds 3a, 5, 6, and 8-10 at 10 µM, with 9 and 10 showing a greater level of inhibition. Inhibition of melanin was both concentration and time dependent for all compounds tested with higher melanin content at 24 h compared to 48 h s and at 10 mM compared to100 mM at both time points; melanin content was significantly lower for hydroquinone at both time points and concentrations. CONCLUSIONS: Compounds 1, 5-14, isolated from Cassipourea flanaganii and the derivative 3a showed low cytotoxicity. All compounds had a clear time and concentration dependent effect on melanin content which did not appear to be dependent on their inhibition of tyrosinase.

Traditional and ethnobotanical dermatology practices in Africa.

More than 80% of the global population depends on traditional medicine for their basic primary health care needs. Africa has a well-established history of botanicals use. These include a vast array of compounds that can be used to treat various skin-related conditions. The rationale for the use of traditional medicine in skincare stems from the physical effects these compounds have on skin, such as the ability to control bleeding and speed up wound healing, as well as the potential to treat burns and other disorders of pigmentation. Most African traditional healers employ decoctions and infusion methods in medicinal plant preparations; the former entails boiling of the whole or parts of the plant in water or other solvents to extract the active ingredients. Infusions involve immersion of the plant in hot or cold water for some time, followed by topically application to the affected skin area. The cosmetic skincare products are formulated to protect, enhance, and preserve the skin in its healthiest state to maintain its barrier function, thus protecting the human body. This review examines a number of botanicals that are used across Africa and the phytochemical actives that are responsible for skincare.

Non-toxic melanin production inhibitors from Garcinia livingstonei (Clusiaceae).

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The stem bark of Garcinia livingstonei is used traditionally as a skin lightening agent. AIM OF THE STUDY: To isolate and identify compounds responsible for the observed skin lightening activity of Garcinia livingstonei and to evaluate their cytotoxicity. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Constituents of the stem bark and fruits of Garcinia livingstonei were isolated using chromatographic techniques and structures were determined using 1D and 2D NMR and MS analysis. MeWo cells were used to evaluate the cytotoxicity and impact on melanin levels of extracts and compounds isolated, in vitro. RESULTS: Twelve known compounds, morelloflavone (1), morelloflavone-7″-sulphate (2), guttiferone A (3), sargaol (4), isojacareubin (5), 6-deoxyisojacareubin (6) and in addition to the common triterpenoids, betulin, betulin aldehyde, lupeol, lupenone, euphol and stigmasterol were isolated in this investigation. Morelloflavone, morelloflavone-7″-sulphate and sargaol, were found to be considerably less cytotoxic and more effective as skin lightening agents than hydroquinone. CONCLUSIONS: A range of compounds was isolated from the stem bark and fruit of Garcinia livingstonei. Although the bark extract contained the cytotoxic guttiferone A, it was found to be less toxic than hydroquinone, and morelloflavone, the 7″-sulphate derivative and sargaol show potential for development as depigmentation/skin lightening agents.