Iris Pallida Extract Alleviates Cortisol-Induced Decrease in Type 1 Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Syntheses in Human Skin Cells.

Excessive endogenous or exogenous levels of the stress hormone cortisol have negative effects on various tissues, including the skin. Iris pallida (IP), used in traditional medicine and perfumes, exhibits biological activities, such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. In this study, we aimed to investigate the inhibitory effect of IP extract (IPE) on cortisol activity in human skin cells. We found that IPE alleviated the cortisol-induced decrease in the levels of procollagen type 1 and hyaluronic acid (HA), which were significantly recovered by 106% and 31%, respectively, compared with cortisol-induced reductions. IPE also rescued the suppression of the gene expression of COL1A1 and the HA synthases HAS2 and HAS3 in cortisol-exposed cells. Moreover, IPE blocked the cortisol-induced translocation of the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) from the cytoplasm to the nucleus as effectively as the GR inhibitor mifepristone. Analysis using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode-array detector system revealed that irigenin, an isoflavone, is the main component of IPE, which restored the cortisol-induced reduction in collagen type 1 levels by 82% relative to the cortisol-induced decrease. Our results suggest that IPE can act as an inhibitor of cortisol in human skin cells, preventing cortisol-induced collagen and HA degradation by blocking the nuclear translocation of the GR. Therefore, IPE may be used as a cosmetic material or herbal medicine to treat stress-related skin changes.

Dexpanthenol Promotes Cell Growth by Preventing Cell Senescence and Apoptosis in Cultured Human Hair Follicle Cells.

Dexpanthenol (D-panthenol) is a precursor of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and is widely used for dietary supplements and topical applications. D-panthenol has long been used in hair care products for the purpose of anti-hair loss, its effects and the underlying mechanisms, however, were barely reported. In this study, the effects of D-panthenol on human hair follicle cells, including dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) and outer root sheath cells (hORSCs), were investigated. D-panthenol enhanced the cell viability, increasing the cellular proliferation marker Ki67 in cultured hDPCs. The markers for apoptosis (Caspase3/9) and cell senescence (p21/p16), reported to be expressed in aged or resting phase follicles, were significantly reduced by D-panthenol. Anagen-inducing factors (ALP; ß-catenin; versican), which trigger or elongate the anagen phase, were stimulated by D-panthenol. On the other hand, D-panthenol reduced TGF-ß1 expressions in both mRNA and protein levels. The expression of VEGF, which is important for peripheral blood vessel activation; was up-regulated by D-panthenol treatment. In cultured hORSCs, cell proliferation and viability were enhanced, while the mRNA expression of cell senescence markers (p21/p16) was significantly down-regulated. The expressions of both VEGF and its receptor (VEGFR) were up-regulated by D-panthenol. In conclusion, our data suggest that the hair growth stimulating activity of D-panthenol was exerted by increasing the cell viability, suppressing the apoptotic markers, and elongating the anagen phase in hair follicles.

Curcuma longa enhances IFN-γ secretion by natural killer cells through cytokines secreted from macrophages.

Interferon-γ (IFN-γ) regulates the human immune system. To study the interaction between macrophages and natural killer (NK) cells, we established a THP-1 macrophage-conditioned media. Among the 58 natural plant extracts tested, Curcuma longa exerted the strongest IFN-γ-enhancing effect in NK-92 cells through THP-1 macrophages. C. longa extract (CLE) enhanced IFN-γ secretion 2.3- and 4.2-fold at 50 and 100 µg/ml, respectively. Therefore, we evaluated its IFN-γ-enhancing effect in vitro. Although NK-92 cells did not produce IFN-γ following treatment with C. longa, enhanced IFN-γ secretion was observed after treatment with THP-1 macrophage-conditioned media. We hypothesized that the cytokines secreted by the CLE-treated THP-1 macrophages are responsible for stimulating NK-92 cells. Cytokine array results show upregulation of cytokines, including MIP-1α, CXCL-1, IL-1ß, PAI-1, and TNF-α, in CLE-treated THP-1 macrophages. To determine the cytokines responsible for augmenting IFN-γ secretion, NK-92 cells were stimulated with MIP-1α, CXCL-1, IL-1ß, or PAI-1. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay results show that all cytokines induced IFN-γ production, although the dose response was somewhat varied. High-performance liquid chromatography analysis of CLE revealed the concentrations of three active curcuminoids, curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin, as 6.70%, 1.00%, and 0.95%, respectively. Their mixture (with concentrations comparable to their occurrence in CLE) exerted an effect similar to that of the whole CLE. Our findings reveal that CLE indirectly stimulated NK-92 cells to secrete IFN-γ, which is mediated by cytokines produced from THP-1 macrophages. Further, we identified three curcuminoids partly responsible for this IFN-γ-enhancing effect. Therefore, C. longa can be used as a functional food ingredient owing to its immune-boosting ability. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: This study demonstrates that CLE stimulates THP-1 macrophages to secrete cytokines, which can in turn stimulate IFN-γ production by NK-92 cells. A mixture of three curcuminoids present in the extract exerted effects similar to whole CLE, demonstrating that the curcuminoids are partly responsible for the IFN-γ-enhancing effect of C. longa. Since IFN-γ is a key regulator of human immune system, these results suggest the potential use of C. longa as an immune-boosting functional food ingredient.

Topical application of Zanthoxylum piperitum extract improves lateral canthal rhytides by inhibiting muscle contractions.

Facial wrinkles are the predominant phenotypes of skin aging. To date, one of the most effective ways to improve wrinkles is botulinum toxin type A (BoNT/A) injection, which inhibits muscle contractions by reducing acetylcholine release from neurons. However, since BoNT/A is a hazardous neurotoxin, the injection can only be performed by medical doctors and the procedure is only possible through invasive injection, causing inconveniences such as pain. To overcome these inconveniences, we tried to find a way to reduce wrinkles non-invasively via mechanisms similar to BoNT/A. We first designed in vitro assays to test BoNT/A-like muscle contraction inhibition in two different model systems. By using the assays, we identified Zanthoxylum piperitum (Z. piperitum) fruit extract as a BoNT-like reagent (27.7% decrease of muscle contraction rates by 1000 ppm of Z. piperitum extract treatment). Next, we determined mechanisms of how Z. piperitum extract decreases muscle contraction rates and found that the extract treatment inhibits electrical signal transduction in neurons. We also showed that among known components of Z. piperitum extract, quercitrin is responsible for muscle contraction inhibition. We further identified that Z. piperitum extract has synergistic effects with acetyl hexapeptide-8 and BoNT/A light chain, which are well-known BoNT-like peptides. Finally, we showed that topical treatment of the Z. piperitum extract indeed decreases facial wrinkles and treatment of Z. piperitum extract with acetyl hexapeptide-8 has a tendency to improve wrinkles synergistically (14.5% improvement on average). The synergistic effect of the combination is expected to improve wrinkles effectively by implementing the BoNT/A mechanisms in a non-invasive way.