Evidence of the protective effect of anti-pollution products against oxidative stress in skin ex vivo using EPR spectroscopy and autofluorescence measurements.

The concentration of air pollution is gradually increasing every year so that daily skin exposure is unavoidable. Dietary supplements and topical formulations currently represent the protective strategies to guard against the effects of air pollution on the body and the skin. Unfortunately, there are not yet enough methods available to measure the effectiveness of anti-pollution products on skin. Here, we present two ex vivo methods for measuring the protective effect against air pollution of different cream formulations on the skin: Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and autofluorescence excited by 785 nm using a confocal Raman microspectrometer (CRM). Smoke from one cigarette was used as a model pollutant. EPR spectroscopy enables the direct measurement of free radicals in excised porcine skin after smoke exposure. The autofluorescence in the skin was measured ex vivo, which is an indicator of oxidative stress. Two antioxidants and a chelating agent in a base formulation and a commercial product containing an antioxidant mixture were investigated. The ex vivo studies show that the antioxidant epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) in the base cream formulation provided the best protection against oxidative stress from smoke exposure for both methods.

Oxidative stress coping capacity (OSC) value: Development and validation of an in vitro measurement method for blood plasma using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy (EPR) and vitamin C.

Oxidative stress as a driver of disease is reinforcing the trend towards supplementation with antioxidants. While antioxidants positively influence the redox status when applied at physiological doses, higher concentrations may have pro-oxidative effects. Precise assessment methods for testing the supply of antioxidants are lacking. Using in-situ-irradiation as stressor and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as readout system for formed radicals, a stress response assessment method was developed, using protein solutions and plasma samples from transfusion medicine. The method was validated in a double-blind placebo-controlled in vivo cross-over pilot study in blood plasma samples of individuals before and after vitamin C supplementation. Reference measurements were performed for the exogenous antioxidants ß-carotene and vitamin C, and glutathione as an endogenous representative. Malondialdehyde was studied for oxidative stress indication. Protein solutions without antioxidants showed a linear increase in radical concentration during irradiation. The in-vitro-addition of vitamin C or plasma samples from subjects displayed two slopes (m1, m2) for radical production, whereby m1 represented the amount of antioxidants and proteins, m2 only the protein content. These two slopes in combination with the intervening transition area (T) were used to calculate the oxidative stress coping capacity (OSC), which correlated positively with vitamin C concentration in blood plasma, while oxidative stress biomarkers showed only fluctuations within their reference ranges. Furthermore, a selective radical quenching mechanism for vitamin C was observed: the proportion of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the plasma samples was degraded in dependence to the vitamin C concentration ingested. The proportion of lipid oxygen species (LOS) remained stable while the ascorbyl radical increased with higher vitamin C intake. OSC may represent a sensitive method to detect treatment effects on the redox status in vivo in future validation and treatment studies, and potentially in clinical routine.

ROS production and glutathione response in keratinocytes after application of ß-carotene and VIS/NIR irradiation.

The skin is exposed to many stress factors which, in turn, can promote a shift of the antioxidant (AO) network towards the prooxidative side, supporting the development of various skin disorders. A balanced diet, in combination with a healthy lifestyle could reduce oxidative stress. Carotenoids are essential nonenzymatic AOs and main components of the exogenous AO system. To examine the interdependence between endogenous and exogenous AOs, secondary keratinocytes (HaCaT) were treated with various Beta (ß-)-carotene concentrations with subsequent stress treatment by moderate irradiation (700-2000 nm). To facilitate the uptake of ß-carotene, an innovative nanocrystal solution was used. Cell viability assay was applied to HaCaT cells to evaluate suitable concentration of ß-carotene, whereby the uptake was measured by resonant Raman spectroscopy. The redox status was determined before and after supplementation with two selected ß-carotene concentrations (0.02 and 0.1 µg/ml) and irradiation. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) were measured by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy and the AO glutathione (GSH) by a fluorescent-based assay for evaluating the endogenous redox status. An increase of ROS and a reduction of GSH after irradiation was observed. Interestingly, the applied ß-carotene, already induce oxidative stress. Nevertheless, an effective protection against irradiation could be observed for the lower dose. The high dose turned pro-oxidative.

Comparison of different cutaneous carotenoid sensors and influence of age, skin type, and kinetic changes subsequent to intake of a vegetable extract.

In the last decade, cutaneous carotenoid measurements have become increasingly popular, as carotenoids were found to be a biomarker of nutrition rich in fruits and vegetables, permitting monitoring of the influence of various stress factors. For such measurements, in addition to the specific and selective resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS), newly developed low expensive small and mobile sensors that are based on spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy (SRRS) are used for cutaneous carotenoid measurements. Human volunteers of different age exhibiting skin types I to III were investigated using RRS and two SRRS-based sensors to determine the influence of these parameters on the measuring results. In two studies on volunteers of either the same age or skin type, however, the respective other parameter being varied and no significant influences of age or skin type could be detected. Furthermore, the kinetic changes resulting from the intake and discontinued intake of a vegetable extract rich in carotenoids showed a good correlation among the three sensors and with the detected blood carotenoids. This illustrates that the SRRS-based sensors and RRS device provide reliable cutaneous carotenoid values independent of age and skin types I to III of the volunteers.