Alterations promoted by acid straightening and/or bleaching in hair microstructures.

Human hair is a biopolymer constituted mainly of keratin intermediate filaments, lipids, pigments and water. Cosmetic treatments usually interact with the hair at the molecular level, inducing changes in its components and modifying the physicochemical and mechanical properties of the fibers. Here, the effect of acid straightening on the morphology and ultrastructure of Caucasian hair was investigated by a group of complementary experimental methods: wide-, small- and ultra-small-angle X-ray scattering; high-resolution 3D X-ray microscopy; quasi-elastic neutron scattering and inelastic neutron scattering; thermogravimetry-mass spectrometry; and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). X-ray diffraction patterns showed that acid straightening associated with a flat iron (∼180°C) changed the cortex of the fiber, shown by denaturation of the intermediate filaments (measured by DSC). The increase in the spacing of the lipid layers and the observation of the dehydration behavior of the fiber provided indications that water may be confined between these layers, while neutron spectroscopy showed alterations in the vibration mode of the CH2 groups of the lipids and an increase of the proton (H+) mobility in the hair structure. The latter may be associated with the extremely low pH of the formulation (pH ≃ 1). Additionally, this investigation showed that bleached hair (one-time bleached) is more damaged by the action of acid straightening than virgin hair, which was shown by a threefold increase in the percentage of total porosity of the tresses. The obtained results demonstrate that the investigation approach proposed here can provide very important thermodynamic and structural information on induced changes of hair structure, and certainly can be applied for the evaluation of the action mode and efficiency of cosmetic treatments.

The development of new oral vaccines using porous silica.

Ordered mesoporous silica (OMS) was proved to be an efficient oral adjuvant capable to deliver a wide in size variety of different antigens, promoting efficient immunogenicity. This material can be used in single or polivalent vaccines, which have been developed by a group of Brazilian scientists. The experiments performed with the model protein Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA) gave the first promissing results, that were also achieved by testing the virus like particle surface antigen of hepatitis B (HBsAg) and diphtheria anatoxin (dANA). Nanostructured OMS, SBA-15 type, with bi-dimensional hexagonal porous symmetry was used to encapsulate the antigens either in the mesoporous (pore diameter ∼ 10 nm) or macroporous (pore diameter > 50 nm) regions. This silica vehicle proved to be capable to create an inflammatory response, did not exhibit toxicity, being effective to induce immunity in high and low responder mice towards antibody production. The silica particles are in the range of micrometer size, leaving no trace in mice organs due to its easy expulsion by faeces. The methods of physics, usually employed to characterize the structure, composition and morphology of materials are of fundamental importance to develop proper oral vaccines in order to state the ideal antigen load to avoid clustering and to determine the rate of antigen release in different media mimicking body fluids.