Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach.

OBJECTIVE: Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. METHODS: The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. RESULTS: In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. CONCLUSION: These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing.

OBJECTIF: le vieillissement de la peau est un processus multifactoriel impliquant la formation de dérivés réactifs de l'oxygène, une inflammation consécutive qui entraîne une viabilité réduite des cellules du derme et de l'épiderme, et endommage la matrice extracellulaire. Pour être efficaces, les traitements dermocosmétiques devraient dans l'idéal traiter ces caractéristiques selon une approche holistique. Ici, nous avons déterminé le profil d'activité correspondant du bakuchiol, un méroterpène d'origine végétale, dans une série d'études in vitro, ex vivo et in vivo, et l'avons comparé au rétinol, qui est aujourd'hui considéré comme la référence parmi les cosmétiques anti-âge topiques. MÉTHODES: la capacité antioxydante et la puissance du bakuchiol et du rétinol ont été analysées en mesurant la réduction du 2,2-diphényl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) selon sa décroissance par absorption et à l'aide d'une spectroscopie par résonance magnétique électronique, respectivement. Les effets sur la prostaglandine E2 (PGE2), le facteur inhibiteur de la migration (FIM) des macrophages, le facteur de croissance des fibroblastes 7 (FGF7), le collagène de type I et VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), les taux de fibronectine (FN), ainsi que la métabolisation du tétrazolium 1 soluble dans l'eau (WST-1) ont été déterminés dans des fibroblastes dermiques humains. La régénération épidermique a été évaluée à l'aide d'un modèle de cicatrisation des plaies in vitro. Les taux de fibronectine ont été analysés ex vivo après un traitement avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol, du rétinol ou un excipient à l'aide d'un liquide d'aspiration sous forme de vésicules. L'amélioration de l'état de la peau a été déterminée in vivo dans une étude de comparaison en hémiface après l'application de bakuchiol ou d'un excipient. RÉSULTATS: Contrairement au rétinol, le bakuchiol s'est avéré présenter une efficacité antioxydante élevée. Les taux de PGE2 et de FIM ont significativement diminué avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol s'est accompagnée d'une augmentation significative des taux de protéine FGF7, mais pas celle de rétinol. Les taux de métabolisation du WST-1 ont augmenté de façon significative avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol et de rétinol a entraîné une augmentation significative des taux de protéines COL1A1, COL7A1 et fibronectine. Les plaies supplémentées en bakuchiol, mais pas en rétinol, ont montré une augmentation significative de la régénération épidermique. Sur le plan clinique, les zones traitées avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol ont montré une augmentation statistiquement significative des taux de fibronectine après une application de 4 semaines par rapport aux zones non traitées et aux zones traitées avec un excipient. CONCLUSION: ces données fournissent des preuves de l'efficacité multidirectionnelle du bakuchiol contre les caractéristiques cellulaires du vieillissement de la peau. Son profil d'activité partage certaines caractéristiques communes avec le rétinol, mais démontre plusieurs effets biopositifs jusqu'alors inconnus dans nos études : la stimulation de la fibronectine, composante essentielle de la matrice extracellulaire, et une régénération épidermique et une cicatrisation accélérée des plaies.

Prevention of Cutaneous Penetration and CD1c+ Uptake of Pollen Allergens by a Barrier-Enhancing Formulation.

Recent studies have shown that pollen proteins can penetrate the impaired skin barrier of atopic patients and exacerbate their disease. In the presented study the effect of a topically applied barrier-enhancing formulation was investigated for its preventive effect on the uptake of pollen allergens into CD1c+ epidermal cells. The pollen proteins were fluorescence labelled and applied on barrier-disrupted excised human skin. CD1c+ cells were selected after magnetic cell sorting and analysed using laser scanning microscopy. In untreated disrupted skin, 81% of the CD1c+ cells contained the fluorescence-labelled pollen allergens. In formulation-pretreated skin only 12% of the CD1c+ cells showed an uptake of pollen allergens. These results encourage the treatment of atopic patients with barrier-enhancing formulations to reduce the impact of pollen on air-exposed skin areas and hence the exacerbation of cutaneous symptoms.

Efficacy of a new tonic containing urea, lactate, polidocanol, and glycyrrhiza inflata root extract in the treatment of a dry, itchy, and subclinically inflamed scalp.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Dry, itchy and inflamed scalp conditions are common and often associated with diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. To improve these symptoms, we investigated the efficacy of a new tonic containing the active ingredients urea, lactate, polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, containing licochalcone A. STUDY DESIGN/METHODS: 30 subjects with dry and itchy scalp conditions underwent a randomized half-head study for 4 weeks, applying the leave-on tonic three times a week on one side of the scalp. Tonic effects on skin hydration, itching, lipids, microinflammation, and substantivity of tonic compounds were determined using corneometry, middle-infrared spectroscopy, direct analysis in real-time mass spectrometry, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Volunteers performed a self-assessment; changes in scalp condition were documented by in vivo microscopy. RESULTS: After tonic treatment, scalp moisture was significantly increased, whereas scalp itching and tautness were significantly reduced. Results also demonstrated a high substantivity of urea and lactate on the scalp, an increase in triglyceride, and a decrease in free fatty acid levels. The amount of total lipids was unchanged. Analyses of scalp wash-ups verified a significant reduction in important pro-inflammatory markers. CONCLUSION: Due to the actives urea, lactate, polidocanol, and the anti-inflammatory licochalcone A, the new scalp tonic exhibited excellent performance in alleviating scalp dryness, itching, microinflammation, and in normalizing disturbances of scalp lipids.

Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders.

Pantothenic acid is essential to normal epithelial function. It is a component of coenzyme A, which serves as a cofactor for a variety of enzyme-catalyzed reactions that are important in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fatty acids, proteins, gluconeogenesis, sterols, steroid hormones, and porphyrins. The topical use of dexpanthenol, the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, is based on good skin penetration and high local concentrations of dexpanthenol when administered in an adequate vehicle, such as water-in-oil emulsions. Topical dexpanthenol acts like a moisturizer, improving stratum corneum hydration, reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining skin softness and elasticity. Activation of fibroblast proliferation, which is of relevance in wound healing, has been observed both in vitro and in vivo with dexpanthenol. Accelerated re-epithelization in wound healing, monitored by means of the transepidermal water loss as an indicator of the intact epidermal barrier function, has also been seen. Dexpanthenol has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on experimental ultraviolet-induced erythema. Beneficial effects of dexpanthenol have been observed in patients who have undergone skin transplantation or scar treatment, or therapy for burn injuries and different dermatoses. The stimulation of epithelization, granulation and mitigation of itching were the most prominent effects of formulations containing dexpanthenol. In double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trials, dexpanthenol was evaluated for its efficacy in improving wound healing. Epidermal wounds treated with dexpanthenol emulsion showed a reduction in erythema, and more elastic and solid tissue regeneration. Monitoring of transepidermal water loss showed a significant acceleration of epidermal regeneration as a result of dexpanthenol therapy, as compared with the vehicle. In an irritation model, pretreatment with dexpanthenol cream resulted in significantly less damage to the stratum corneum barrier, compared with no pretreatment. Adjuvant skin care with dexpanthenol considerably improved the symptoms of skin irritation, such as dryness of the skin, roughness, scaling, pruritus, erythema, erosion/fissures, over 3 to 4 weeks. Usually, the topical administration of dexpanthenol preparations is well tolerated, with minimal risk of skin irritancy or sensitization.