Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE: The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics. METHODS: Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed. RESULTS: The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: L'industrie du vin génère de grandes quantités de sous-produits présentant une composition remarquablement précieuse en matière de phytochimie. Le procédé susceptible d'augmenter significativement la teneur en composés bioactifs est la fermentation par la levure et d'autres micro-organismes. Cette étude présente pour la première fois une évaluation du potentiel de l'extrait de rafle de raisin et de ses ferments réalisés à l'aide du consortium Scoby lors de l'utilisation en matière première pour améliorer les propriétés de soin cutané des cosmétiques du visage. MÉTHODES: La fermentation des rafles de raisin a été réalisée à l'aide du consortium Scoby pendant 10 et 20 jours. L'activité antioxydante et la composition chimique des extraits non fermentés et fermentés a été analysée en mettant l'accent sur les substances biologiquement actives. En outre, l'évaluation a également porté sur l'influence de l'ajout des ferments obtenus aux crèmes cosmétiques types sur l'hydratation, la perte d'eau transépidermique et le pH cutané. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats obtenus ont révélé que l'extrait de rafles et ses ferments représentaient une source riche en composés phénoliques et montraient une activité antioxydante ; les valeurs les plus élevées des extraits étant observées au 20 -ème jour de fermentation. En outre, l'ajout de l'extrait et du ferment à la crème entraîne un effet positif sur l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la perte d'eau transépidermique. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les extraits de rafles représentent une source prospective de composés actifs et peuvent constituer des principes actifs précieux pour l'industrie cosmétique. Il est possible d'utiliser des extraits non fermentés et fermentés dans les formulations cosmétiques hydratantes et pour compléter le traitement des peaux sèches et sensibles.

Application of Levan-Rich Digestate Extract in the Production of Safe-to-Use and Functional Natural Body Wash Cosmetics.

The study focused on the evaluation of the possibility of using a levan-rich digestate extract in the production of safe and functional body wash cosmetics. Model shower gels were designed and formulated on the basis of raw materials of natural origin. Prepared prototypes contained various extract concentrations (16.7; 33; 50%). A gel without extract was used as a reference. The samples were evaluated for their safety in use and functionality. The results showed that the use of high-concentration levan-rich digestate extract in a shower gel resulted in a significant reduction in the negative impact on the skin. For example, the zein value decreased by over 50% in relation to the preparation without the extract. An over 40% reduction in the emulsifying capacity of hydrophobic substances was also demonstrated, which reduces skin dryness after the washing process. However, the presence of the extract did not significantly affect the parameters related to functionality. Overall, it was indicated that levan-rich digestate extract can be successfully used as a valuable ingredient in natural cleansing cosmetics.

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics.

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry.

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Hydrophilic Dogwood Extracts as Materials for Reducing the Skin Irritation Potential of Body Wash Cosmetics.

A significant problem related to the use of surfactants in body wash cosmetics is their propensity to trigger skin irritations. Only scarce literature exists on the effect of plant extracts on the skin irritation potential. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of hydrophilic dogwood extracts on the irritant potential of body wash gels. Extractants used in the study were water and mixtures of water with glycerine, water with trimethylglycine (betaine), and water with plant-derived glycol (propanediol). The basic biochemical properties, i.e., the ability to neutralize free radicals, and the content of polyphenols, anthocyanins and flavonoids, were determined. An attempt was undertaken to analyze the impact of the extract added to natural body wash gel formulations on product properties. The skin irritation potential was assessed by determining the zein number and the increase in the pH level of the bovine serum albumin (BSA) solution. The viscosity and foaming ability of the resulting products were evaluated. The studies revealed that an addition of dogwood extract contributes to an improvement in the properties of body wash gels and significantly increases the safety of product use through reducing the skin irritation effect.

Improvement in the Safety of Use of Hand Dishwashing Liquids Through the Addition of Hydrophobic Plant Extracts.

We investigated the effect of hydrophobic extract concentration on the safety of using hand dishwashing liquids (HDL). A series of formulations was prepared, differing in the concentration of the hydrophobic chamomile extract obtained in supercritical CO2 conditions (from 0 to 0.7 %). We found that an increase in the concentration of the extract led to a decrease in the zein number, and reduced changes in the pH level of bovine serum albumin solution (i.e., two parameters determining the irritant activity of the formulations). It was also found that the additives reduced transepidermal water loss and improved the skin hydration level. Based on the findings of the study, a mechanism has been proposed, according to which hydrophobic plant extracts form aggregates in the volume phase of the washing bath. The surface of the aggregates is the adsorption area for surfactant monomers responsible for the irritant effect. Increasing the addition of the extract was shown to reduce the negative impact of the formulations on the skin of the hands, thus contributing to a greater safety of use of HDL.