Exploring the Potential of Icelandic Seaweeds Extracts Produced by Aqueous Pulsed Electric Fields-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications.

A growing concern for overall health is driving a global market of natural ingredients not only in the food industry but also in the cosmetic field. In this study, a screening on potential cosmetic applications of aqueous extracts from three Icelandic seaweeds produced by pulsed electric fields (PEF) was performed. Produced extracts by PEF from Ulva lactuca, Alaria esculenta and Palmaria palmata were compared with the traditional hot water extraction in terms of polyphenol, flavonoid and carbohydrate content. Moreover, antioxidant properties and enzymatic inhibitory activities were evaluated by using in vitro assays. PEF exhibited similar results to the traditional method, showing several advantages such as its non-thermal nature and shorter extraction time. Amongst the three Icelandic species, Alaria esculenta showed the highest content of phenolic (mean value 8869.7 µg GAE/g dw) and flavonoid (mean value 12,098.7 µg QE/g dw) compounds, also exhibiting the highest antioxidant capacities. Moreover, Alaria esculenta extracts exhibited excellent anti-enzymatic activities (76.9, 72.8, 93.0 and 100% for collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase, respectively) for their use in skin whitening and anti-aging products. Thus, our preliminary study suggests that Icelandic Alaria esculenta-based extracts produced by PEF could be used as potential ingredients for natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations.

Sponges and Their Symbionts as a Source of Valuable Compounds in Cosmeceutical Field.

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Computational strategies for the discovery of biological functions of health foods, nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals: a review.

Scientific and consumer interest in healthy foods (also known as functional foods), nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals has increased in the recent years, leading to an increased presence of these products in the market. However, the regulations across different countries that define the type of claims that may be made, and the degree of evidence required to support these claims, are rather inconsistent. Moreover, there is also controversy on the effectiveness and biological mode of action of many of these products, which should undergo an exhaustive approval process to guarantee the consumer rights. Computational approaches constitute invaluable tools to facilitate the discovery of bioactive molecules and provide biological plausibility on the mode of action of these products. Indeed, methodologies like QSAR, docking or molecular dynamics have been used in drug discovery protocols for decades and can now aid in the discovery of bioactive food components. Thanks to these approaches, it is possible to search for new functions in food constituents, which may be part of our daily diet, and help to prevent disorders like diabetes, hypercholesterolemia or obesity. In the present manuscript, computational studies applied to this field are reviewed to illustrate the potential of these approaches to guide the first screening steps and the mechanistic studies of nutraceutical, cosmeceutical and functional foods.

Optimization of Two Eco-Friendly Extractions of Black Medick (Medicago lupulina L.) Phenols and Their Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical, α-Glucosidase and α-Amylase Inhibitory Properties.

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box-Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X1), extraction temperature (X2) and time (X3), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X1, X2, X3): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Novel postharvest processing strategies for value-added applications of marine algae.

Marine algae are regarded as a promising nutrients resource in future as they can be sustainably cultured without land and high investment. These macroalgae are now widely processed into food and beverages, fertilizers and animal feed. Furthermore, bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides and polyphenols in seaweeds have proven to have antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties that can be utilized in cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. As a key procedure in seaweed production, the postharvest process not only requires more laboured and energy but also affect the quality of the final product significantly. This article reviewed all current postharvest processes and technologies of seaweed and addressed potential postharvest strategies for seaweed production. © 2021 Society of Chemical Industry.

A Global Review on Short Peptides: Frontiers and Perspectives.

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics.

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Plant In Vitro Systems as a Sustainable Source of Active Ingredients for Cosmeceutical Application.

Cosmeceuticals are hybrids between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which are being designed for a dual purpose: (1) To provide desired esthetical effects and (2) simultaneously treat dermatological conditions. The increased demand for natural remedies and the trends to use natural and safe ingredients resulted in intensive cultivation of medicinal plants. However, in many cases the whole process of plant cultivation, complex extraction procedure, and purification of the targeted molecules are not economically feasible. Therefore, the desired production of natural cosmetic products in sustainable and controllable fashion in the last years led to the intensive utilization of plant cell culture technology. The present review aims to highlight examples of biosynthesis of active ingredients derived through plant in vitro systems with potential cosmeceutical application. The exploitation of different type of extracts used in a possible cosmeceutical formulation, as well as, their activity tested in in vitro/in vivo models is thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, opportunities to manipulate the biosynthetic pathway, hence engineering the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, such as anthocyanins, have been highlighted.

Dynamic mechanical analysis of novel cosmeceutical facial creams containing nano-encapsulated natural plant and fruit extracts.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetic industry following the recent trends in the relative market has turned its interest in the formation of cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactive ingredients. Natural extracts may reveal undesirable sensory characteristics due to their composition. Encapsulation and nanotechnology are the most promising methods to overcome these drawbacks, opening up new perspectives for the future of cosmeceutical industry. AIMS: The purpose of this study was the use of nano-encapsulated plant and fruit extracts to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams with acceptable rheological characteristics. METHODS: Electrohydrodynamic process was used to encapsulate pomegranate and tea tree oil extracts and incorporate them in facial cosmetic creams. All the formulations including those without additives, were stored at three different temperatures. Subsequently, rheological oscillatory tests (frequency sweep tests) were performed using the dynamic mechanical analysis method in order to evaluate alterations in storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G''), and complex viscosity (η*). RESULTS: Dynamic mechanical analysis, showed that all formulations are suitable for application in cosmetic industry, while changes due to storage period or the storage temperature were negligible. CONCLUSION: The addition of the selected extracts' nanofibers to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams, developed products with acceptable rheological characteristics that could be decisive for the cosmetics industry.

Dermatology in Ancient Rome: Medical ingredients in Ovid's "Remedies for female faces".

BACKGROUND: In Roman medicine, face packs, plasters, unguents, and peelings were part of the therapy of dermatological diseases, but also served cosmetic purposes. Ancient medical textbooks inform us about the ingredients for these applications. Beyond medical literature, other genres contain information about dermatological applications. The Roman poet Ovid (43 BC-17 AD) wrote a didactic poem recording five recipes for topical applications for female faces (Medicamina faciei femineae). Researchers debate the relation of Ovid's poem to Roman medicine: Does the poem contain therapeutical or cosmetical information, or is it mere belles lettres? AIMS: The objective of the paper is to conduct a medico-historical classification of Ovid's poem by determining whether the ingredients of Ovid's recipes were thought to be effective by the authors of Roman medical textbooks. METHODS: First, translation and identification of the ingredients were carried out. Second, comparison of the ingredients' functions regarding the therapy of dermatological diseases in two important Roman medical textbooks was realized. For this purpose, several commentaries on the text of Ovid were used and a keyword search in Roman medical textbooks was performed. RESULTS: Ovid's five recipes contain 23 ingredients. All ingredients can be found in medical textbooks. We find that 14 of these ingredients serve cosmetic purposes, 17 serve the therapy of dermatological diseases, and 13 serve both. CONCLUSION: Ovid's recipes contain drugs that were considered effective by the authors of Roman medical textbooks. These drugs were recommended both for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes by the same authors. Therefore, Ovid's didactic poem is not mere belles lettres, but contains serious medical and cosmetical information. As far as we know, it is the first Roman text that contains dermatological recipes.

Development of topical drug delivery system with Sphaeranthus indicus flower extract and its investigation on skin as a cosmeceutical product.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetics are the products used to beautify the skin. Emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. Sphaeranthus indicus is claimed to be used for skin beautification in folk medicine. Multiple emulsion was formulated containing the extract of S indicus flowers. AIMS: This research study indicates that extract of S indicus flowers contains sufficient amount of polyphenols and also possess good antioxidant activity with mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. METHOD: Further, stable multiple emulsion was developed and stability testing was performed for 180 days by keeping the multiple emulsion at 8°C ± 1, 25°C ± 1, 40°C ± 1, and 40°C ± 1 with 75% ± 1 RH. Parameters checked were color change, phase distribution, viscosity, droplet size and size distribution, pH determination, and electrical conductivity. Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined which also showed promising results. Skin testing on human volunteers was done for 3 months after biosafety profiling of the most stable multiple emulsion. RESULTS: This also showed remarkable effects. Skin erythema, melanin, and sebum were reduced. Skin hydration and elasticity were increased. There was also reduction in the number of skin large and small skin pores. Skin spot area was also reduced by the use of multiple emulsion loaded with S indicus flower extract. ANOVA test showed that all the effects produced on skin were significant, ie, P ≤ .05. CONCLUSION: A stable multiple emulsion was developed which produced significant cosmetic effects on human skin.

Evaluation of moisturizing and irritation potential of sacha inchi oil.

OBJECTIVE: The moisturizing and irritation effects of sacha inchi oil were evaluated. STUDY DESIGN: The moisturizing effect on the skin was clinically assessed using a regression study design. Sacha inchi oil or olive oil (benchmark) was applied on the left or right lower leg of the subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days. The TEWL, skin moisture content and dryness appearance were observed. METHODS: The fatty acid composition and characteristics of cold-pressed sacha inchi seed oil were determined. Skin tissues cultured ex vivo were used to assess primary irritation induced by the oil by examining keratin 1 expression and TNF-α and IL-1α release from the oil-applied tissues. RESULTS: The sacha inchi oil contained 42.3% linolenic acid and 39.5% linoleic acid. This oil's saponification, iodine, acid and peroxide values were 168.58 ± 1.55 mg KOH/g, 203.00 ± 0.04 g I2 /100 g, 1.68 ± 0.03 mg KOH/g, and 1.95 ± 0.26 mEq peroxide/kg, respectively. Compared with nontreated skin tissues, induced secretion of TNF-α and IL-1α and disruption of keratin 1 integrity in the stratum corneum layer were not found in the sacha inchi oil-treated tissues. In a clinical study with 13 volunteers, the improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site. CONCLUSIONS: The sacha inchi oil was mild to the skin and benefited dry skin.

From bench to counter: Discovery and validation of a peony extract as tyrosinase inhibiting cosmeceutical.

The anti-melanogenic principle of peony (Paeonia officinalis subsp. officinalis) seeds was elucidated via activity-guided isolation. Resveratroloside (trans-resveratrol-4'-O-beta-d-glucopyranoside) was found to be the main metabolite of P. officinalis subsp. officinalis seeds and its tyrosinase inhibiting activity was confirmed via an enzymatic assay. Furthermore, the in vitro activity and the therapeutic window were studied employing the murine melanoma cell line B16F10. The results from the conducted stability assay and the high content of resveratroloside in the seeds (i.e. 10.4% dw) motivated us to push the extract forward to an in vivo tolerance assay. A clinical study with forty Caucasian participants proofed a good skin-tolerance with high moisture effect and reduction of pores.

Antidiabetic and Cosmeceutical Potential of Common Barbery (Berberis vulgaris L.) Root Bark Extracts Obtained by Optimization of 'Green' Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction.

Berberis vulgaris is rich in berberine, an isoquinoline alkaloid, with antidiabetic activity, often used topically for skin-related problems. The aim of this work was to develop a "green" method for berberine extraction using mixtures of water with glycerol, a non-toxic, environmentally-friendly solvent. Response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken design was used to optimize the experimental conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of berberine and anti-radical components from B. vulgaris root bark. The independent variables were temperature (X1), glycerol concentration (X2), and ultrasound power (X3), while the responses were berberine concentration and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the extracts (RSA IC50). The response values of the extracts prepared at optimum conditions were (response, X1, X2, X3): berberine yield (145.5 µg/mL; 80 °C, 50%, 144 W) and RSA IC50 (58.88 µL/mL; 80 °C, 30%, 720 W). The observed values deviated from the predicted values by -3.45% and 6.42% for berberine and RSA IC50, respectively, thus indicating the validity of the selected models. The prepared extracts demonstrated antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-inflammatory activity, as well excellent α-glucosidase and α-amylase inhibitory activity. The displayed biological properties and lack of glycerol toxicity makes the prepared extracts suitable for direct inclusion into antidiabetic and dermatologic food supplements and topical products.

Cosmeceutical potential of geranium and calendula essential oil: Determination of antioxidant activity and in vitro sun protection factor.

The present investigation was aimed to find out the sun protection factor (SPF) and antioxidant potential of geranium essential oil (GEO) and calendula essential oil (CEO) because having a combination of these two properties moves up the oils as an active ingredient of various cosmeceutical formulations for their preventive and protective properties. Essential oils were obtained by hydrodistillation of Pelargonium graveolens leaves (GEO) and Calendula officinalis flowers (CEO). The composition and identification of chemical constituents of oils were determined by GCMS analysis. Free radical scavenging activity was measured by nitric oxide scavenging activity and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. It was observed that both GEO and CEO have the potential to reduce or prevent oxidative stress and can be used in skin care regimen to slow down skin aging via its antioxidant properties. In vitro SPF was determined by a very simple and rapid spectroscopic method. SPF value of GEO and CEO was found to 6.45 and 8.36, respectively. The SPF of CEO was higher than GEO, and the results of SPF show that these essential oils can be employed in sunscreen formulations to protect the skin from sunburn. From the results, it can be concluded that the combined antioxidant and SPF property of GEO and CEO can provide synergistic photoprotective effect or lift up the additional value of the cosmeceutical formulation.

The use of natural ingredients in innovative Korean cosmeceuticals.

BACKGROUND: The cosmeceutical industry is an ever-growing and in demand market, especially in Asia. Korea has been on the forefront of creating the newest generation and most innovative cosmeceuticals products including ingredients such as snail secretions, starfish powder, botanical extracts, green tea, and red ginseng. Given their increasing prevalence in the cosmeceutical industry, scientists have been conducting investigations into these extracts and their properties. OBJECTIVE: To summarize the current literature surrounding multiple natural ingredients found in Korean cosmeceutical products. METHODS: A review of the literature surrounding natural ingredients found in Korean cosmeceuticals was conducted using PubMed (U.S. National Library of Medicine). RESULTS: Multiple natural extracts have been found to have antiaging, antitumor, and antimelanogenic effects making them useful additives in current cosmeceutical products. CONCLUSION: With the public's increasing awareness of cosmeceutical products, it is important for physicians to understand the properties of these extracts in order to inform patients correctly and ensure patient safety.

Resveratrol, 4' Acetoxy Resveratrol, R-equol, Racemic Equol or S-equol as Cosmeceuticals to Improve Dermal Health.

Phytochemicals are botanical compounds used in dermatology applications as cosmeceuticals to improve skin health. Resveratrol and equol are two of the best-known polyphenolic or phytoestrogens having similar chemical structures and some overlapping biological functions to 17ß-estradiol. Human skin gene expression was reviewed for 28 different biomarkers when resveratrol, 4' acetoxy resveratrol (4AR), R-equol, racemic equol or S-equol were tested. Sirtuin 1 activator (SIRT 1) was stimulated by resveratrol and 4AR only. Resveratrol, R-equol and racemic equol were effective on the aging biomarkers proliferating cell nuclear factor (PCNA), nerve growth factor (NGF), 5α-reductase and the calcium binding proteins S100 A8 and A9. Racemic equol and 4AR displayed among the highest levels for the collagens, elastin and tissue inhibitor of the matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP 1). S-equol displayed the lowest level of effectiveness compared to the other compounds. The 4AR analog was more effective compared to resveratrol by 1.6-fold. R-equol and racemic equol were almost equal in potency displaying greater inhibition vs. resveratrol or its 4' analog for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), but among the inflammatory biomarkers, resveratrol, 4AR, R-equol and racemic equol displayed high inhibition. Thus, these cosmeceuticals display promise to improve dermal health; however, further study is warranted to understand how phytochemicals protect/enhance the skin.

Patents on Therapeutic and Cosmetic Applications of Bioactives of Crocus Sativus L. and their Production through Synthetic Biology Methods: A Review.

BACKGROUND: Saffron (Crocus sativus L.) has a long history of use as a food additive and a traditional medicine for treating a number of disorders. Prominent bioactives of saffron are crocin, crocetin and safranal. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to carry out an extensive patent search to collect information on saffron bioactives and their derivatives as therapeutic and cosmeceutical agents. All patents related to the area of interest published globally till date have been reviewed. Moreover, a recent synthetic biology approach to cost effective and consistent production of saffron bioactives has been highlighted. METHODS: A patent search strategy was designed based on keywords and concepts related to Crocus sativus L. and its bioactives- safranal, crocin and crocetin in combination with different patent classification codes relevant to the technology areas. This search strategy was employed to retrieve patents from various patent databases. The patents which focused on therapeutic or cosmetic applications and claimed compositions comprising crocin, crocetin or safranal as the main active component were selected and analysed. RESULTS: Maximum patenting activity was noticed towards the use of these bioactives in the treatment of neurological disorders followed by multiple uses of the same compound, use in treatment of metabolic disorders and use as cosmeceuticals. Interestingly, there were no patent records related to use of these bioactives in treating infectious disorders. CONCLUSION: Our patent analysis points out the populous and less explored uses of saffron bioactives and areas where there is further scope for research and growth. Recently developed synthetic biology approach is contributory in improving availability, consistency and cost effectiveness of saffron bioactives.

Development of Mushroom-Based Cosmeceutical Formulations with Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Tyrosinase, Antioxidant, and Antibacterial Properties.

The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, and Lentinula edodes was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%-100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural cosmeceutical ingredients.