In vitro Evaluation of Skin Related Enzyme Inhibitory Effect and Emulgel Formulation Development Studies of Onobrychis Argyrea subsp. Argyrea with Phytochemical Analysis.

Species of Onobrychis have been used to treat skin disorders such as wounds and cuts in folk medicine and Onobrychis argyrea subsp. argyrea (OA) commonly known as 'silvery sainfoin', is a member of this genus. In this study, it was aimed to investigate the skin-related biological activities and phytochemical characterization of OA. Moreover, an emulgel formulation was developed from the main methanolic extract of the plant (OAM). Initially, to identifiy of the active fractions, aerial parts of the plant material was extracted with methanol and fractionated by n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate and n-butanol, respectively. Antioxidant activity was determined by CUPRAC, TOAC, FRAP and DPPH assays. Thereafter, the inhibition potential of OAM, novel formulation and all fractions was measured against elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase enzymes. OAM was analyzed and characterized by LC/MS-MS. The major bioactive flavonoids which are rutin and isoquercetin were measured and compared as qualitative and quantitative via high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) analysis in OAM and fractions. The results showed that extracts of OA can be a potential cosmeceutical agent for skin related problems.

Chemical and Skincare Property Characterization of the Main Cocoa Byproducts: Extraction Optimization by RSM Approach for Development of Sustainable Ingredients.

Methylxanthines and polyphenols from cocoa byproducts should be considered for their application in the development of functional ingredients for food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Different cocoa byproducts were analyzed for their chemical contents, and skincare properties were measured by antioxidant assays and anti-skin aging activity. Musty cocoa beans (MC) and second-quality cocoa beans (SQ) extracts showed the highest polyphenol contents and antioxidant capacities. In the collagenase and elastase inhibition study, the highest effect was observed for the SQ extract with 86 inhibition and 36% inhibition, respectively. Among cocoa byproducts, the contents of catechin and epicatechin were higher in the SQ extract, with 18.15 mg/100 g of sample and 229.8 mg/100 g of sample, respectively. Cocoa bean shells (BS) constitute the main byproduct due to their methylxanthine content (1085 mg of theobromine and 267 mg of caffeine/100 g of sample). Using BS, various influencing factors in the extraction process were investigated by response surface methodology (RSM), before scaling up separations. The extraction process developed under optimized conditions allows us to obtain almost 2 g/min and 0.2 g/min of total methylxanthines and epicatechin, respectively. In this way, this work contributes to the sustainability and valorization of the cocoa production chain.

Antibacterial, antifungal and enzyme inhibitory effects of selected plants from Turkey.

In this study, antibacterial, antifungal, antihyaluronidase, anticollagenase and antielastase activity of Hypericum bithynicum, Malva neglecta, Morus alba, Rubus discolor, Sambucus ebulus and Smilax excelsa were investigated. Methanol extracts of M. neglecta and R. discolor and all extracts of H. bithynicum were more active against Staphylococcus epidermidis. Similarly, water extracts of M. alba and S. ebulus were more active against Streptococcus pneumonia. Additionally, S. ebulus and S. excelsa had prominent antifungal activity on Candida albicans. Besides, methanol extract of M. neglecta and n-hexane extract of H. bithynicum were determined to have significant antihyaluronidase activity. Only R. discolor showed significant antielastase effect.

Topical Delivery of Geranium/Calendula Essential Oil-Entrapped Ethanolic Lipid Vesicular Cream to Combat Skin Aging.

The present study deals with the evaluation of the age-defying potential of topical cream formulations bearing Geranium essential oil/Calendula essential oil-entrapped ethanolic lipid vesicles (ELVs). Two types of cream formulations were prepared, viz., conventional and ELVs spiked o/w creams. Essential oil- (EO-) loaded ELVs were characterized by vesicle size, polydispersity index, encapsulation efficiency, and scanning electron microscopy. The cream formulations were evaluated for homogeneity, spreadability, viscosity, pH, in vitro antioxidant capacity, sun protection factor, and in vitro collagenase and elastase inhibition capacity. Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) was performed to ascertain skin permeation of conventional and vesicular cream. The results of in vitro antioxidant studies showed that GEO-/CEO-loaded vesicular creams have notable antioxidant capacity when compared to nonvesicular creams. GEO- or CEO-loaded vesicular creams exhibited the highest SPF value 10.26 and 18.54, respectively. Both the EO-based vesicular creams showed in vitro collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibition capacity. CLSM images clearly depicted that vesicular cream deep into the skin layers. From the research findings, the age-defying potential and photoprotective effects of GEO and CEO were confirmed. It can be concluded that ELVs are able to preserve the efficiency of EOs and have the potential to combat skin aging.

Identification and characterization of a novel elastase inhibitor from Hirudinaria manillensis.

A large number of protease inhibitors have been found from leeches, which are essential in various physiological and biological processes. In the curret study, a novel elastase inhibitor was purified and characterized from the leech of Hirudinaria manillensis, which was named HMEI-A. Primary structure analysis showed that HMEI-A belonged to a new family of proteins. HMEI-A exerted inhibitory effects on elastase and showed potent abilities to inhibit elastase with an inhibition constant (Ki) of 1.69 × 10-8 mol·L-1. Further study showed that HMEI-A inhibited the formation of neutrophil extracellular trap (NET). These results suggested that HMEI-A from the leech of H. manillensis is a novel elastase inhibitor which can suppress NET formation. It may play a significant role in blood-sucking of leeches and is a potential candidate as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Screening the dermatological potential of plectranthus species components: antioxidant and inhibitory capacities over elastase, collagenase and tyrosinase.

A series of Plectranthus spp. plant extracts (aqueous, acetonic, methanolic and ethyl acetic) obtained from eight different species, and previously isolated compounds (ranging from polyphenols, diterpenes and triterpenes), were assayed for in vitro inhibition of the skin-related enzymes tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase, and for studying their antioxidant properties. The ethyl acetic extracts of P. grandidentatus and P. ecklonii registered the highest antioxidant activity, whereas acetonic, methanolic and ethyl acetic extracts of P. ecklonii, P. grandidentatus, P. madagascariensis and P. saccatus concerning the enzymatic inhibition assays revealed high anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase activities. From the isolated compounds tested, abietane diterpenes and triterpenes were highly active against tyrosinase and elastase activity. Overall, the experimental results showed the powerful antioxidant and inhibitory action on skin-related enzymes tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase of Plectranthus spp. extracts and/or isolated compounds, supporting their further research as bioactive metabolites against skin sagging and hyperpigmentation in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Comparison of the Antiaging and Protective Properties of Plants from the Apiaceae Family.

Plant materials play a very significant role as components of products being used both for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Due to the high content of active substances, they can play an important role as extracts with antioxidant, regenerative, and antiaging properties. The skin aging process depends on various pathological and physiological processes, among which the degradation of extracellular matrix biomolecules such as collagen and elastin, which significantly affect the maintenance of good skin condition, is very important. The secondary metabolites and plant extracts may have collagenase and elastase inhibitory activity. This activity is mainly due to the high content of a wide range of various biologically active compounds, such as polyphenols, which include, among others, flavonoids, phenolic acids, tocopherols, and tannins. The work involved a comprehensive assessment of the plant from Apiaceae family such as Meum athamanticum L., Centella asiatica L., and Aegopodium podagraria L. extract as a multifunctional raw material. During study antioxidant properties, phenolic compounds and flavonoids content, effect on collagenase and elastase enzyme activity (antiaging effect), cytotoxic properties on skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts), and cell migration capacity were analyzed. It has been shown that the highest antioxidant capacity can be observed for the extract of herb of Aegopodium podagraria L. When the concentration reached 5% all tested extracts had a positive effect on the cell proliferation of both keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It turned out that the most promising inhibitor of collagenase and elastase enzymes was the extract from Aegopodium podagraria, which inhibits the activity of both enzymes by over 70% in the concentration of 5% positively affecting the condition of skin cells.

Phytochemical analysis of olive flowers' hydroalcoholic extract and in vitro evaluation of tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase inhibition activity.

Olea europaea L. is historically one of the most important trees of the Mediterranean countries. Increasing scientific interest regarding its fruits, leaves and olive oil has led to the elucidation of several phytochemical and biological characteristics. However, the phytochemical and biological studies regarding olive flowers remain limited. The aim of the present study was the phytochemical characterization of olive flowers' hydroalcoholic extract from Greek variety Lianolia, the effective isolation of the major secondary metabolites and evaluation of their inhibition activity against tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase. UPLC-HRMS/MS analysis was used to investigate the chemical composition of hydroalcoholic extract resulting in the identification of sixty-three secondary metabolites witch mainly belong to phenilethanoids, triterpenoids, flavonoids and secoiridoids. The orthogonial combination of Centrifugal Partition Chromatography and preparative HPLC in the same purification process led to the isolation of nine major compounds of the extract including two triterpenic acids, two flavonoid glycosides and five secoiridoid derivatives. From them, oleofloside A and oleofloside B are new natural products. Although, the hydroalcoholic extract and isolated secoiridoids exhibited weak or no inhibition activity towards tyrosinase and elastase, they exhibit remarkable anti-collagenase activity with 2΄-ethoxyoleuropein being the most active compound.

Enzyme inhibitory assessment of the isolated constituents from Plantago holosteum Scop.

Plants of the Plantago genus are widely used in Turkish folk medicine especially for the treatment of wound, abscess, and inflammation. The aqueous extract and five phenylethanoid glycosides acteoside (1), arenarioside (2), echinacoside (3), isoacteoside (4), and leucosceptoside A (5) isolated from the aerial parts and roots of Plantago holosteum Scop. (Plantaginaceae) were tested for their possible inhibitory activity against hyaluronidase, elastase, and collagenase, related to wound pathogenesis. Even though the aqueous extract prepared from the aerial parts (36.26%) and roots (47.01%) and the isolated compounds acteoside (29.13%), echinacoside (28.73%), and isoacteoside (31.69%) exerted a notable inhibition, arenarioside and leucosceptoside A were found inactive in the hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition test. Similar results were obtained from the collagenase enzyme inhibition test. The aqueous extract prepared from the aerial parts (31.09%) and roots (35.17%), echinacoside (25.13%), and isoacteoside (23.85%) exerted a notable inhibition in this test. However, none of the extracts and isolated compounds displayed elastase enzyme inhibitory activity. The experimental data demonstrated that P. holosteum displayed a remarkable enzyme inhibitory activity against hyaluronidase and collagenase. This paper is the first report regarding the in vitro enzyme inhibitory activity of P. holosteum.

Development and Antimicrobial Evaluation of Eruca Sativa Oil Nanoemulgel with Determination of the Oil Antioxidant, Sun Protection Factor and Elastase Inhibition.

OBJECTIVES: This project aims to develop a bio-natural nano-product with Cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications. METHODS: E. sativa oil was evaluated for its anti-oxidant, sun protection factor and elastase inhibition. Then, nanoemulgel formulations were prepared for E. sativa oil through the combination of nanoemulsion with hydrogel. E. sativa nanoemulsion formulations were prepared by the help of a selfemulsification technique. After this, the optimum formulation was mixed with Carbopol to produce the nanoemulgel. Anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activities were evaluated. RESULTS: Nanoemulsion occurred when the size of the droplets was 195.29 nm with the lowest polydispersibility index 0.207. The results of antioxidant, anti-elastase and SPF activities for E. sativa oil were 2.10 µg/ml, 25.1 µg/ml and an SPF value of 5.57, respectively. In addition, in the anti-bacterial test for Staphylococcus aureus, it was found that nanoemulgel has an inhibition zone of 2.1 cm in diameter. According to the MRSA, the inhibition zone was 1.5 cm. CONCLUSION: E. Sativa oil could be a promising candidate in cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical preparations.

Reinvestigation of Herniaria glabra L. saponins and their biological activity.

Twelve undescribed triterpenoid pentacyclic glycosides, medicagenic acid (3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 3)-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 3)]-4-O-acetyl-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[ß-D-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 3)]-4-O-acetyl-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-3,4-O-diacetyl-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 28-O-{[6-O-acetyl-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[2-O-acetyl-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 4)-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 28-O-{[6-O-acetyl-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[3-O-acetyl-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 4)-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 28-O-{[6-O-acetyl-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[4-O-acetyl-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 4)-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 28-O-{[6-O-acetyl-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 28-O-{[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid), zanhic acid (3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 3)-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 3)]-4-O-acetyl-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}2ß,3ß,16α-trihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid, 3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 3)-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß,16α-trihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid), 29-hydroxy-medicagenic acid (3-O-ß-D-glucuronopyranosyl-28-O-{[ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 3)-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 3)]-4-O-acetyl-ß-D-fucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß,29ß-trihydroxyolean-12-ene-23,28-dioic acid) and herniaric acid (28-O-{[6-O-acetyl-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 2)]-[α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 4)-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-ß-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→)}-2ß,3ß-dihydroxyolean-18-ene-23,28-dioic acid) were isolated from the whole plant extract of Herniaria glabra L. (Caryophyllaceae), wild growing in the Ukraine. In addition, five known triterpenoid saponins; i.e. herniariasaponins 1, 4, 5, 6, and 7 were also isolated. Their structures were elucidated by HRESIMS, 1D and 2D NMR spectroscopy, as well as by comparison with the literature data. Twelve herniariasaponins, the purified crude extract, and the saponin fraction were evaluated in vitro for their xanthine oxidase, collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Moreover, herniariasaponins 4, 5, and 7 were screened for their cholinesterase inhibitory potential. As a result, no or low inhibition towards the mentioned enzymes was observed.

Inhibitory activity of Podospermum canum and its active components on collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase enzymes.

Present study is aimed to investigate in vitro inhibitory effects of the extract prepared from the aerial parts of Podospermum canum (syn: Scorzonera cana var. jacquiniana) (Asteraceae) on hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase enzymes using a bioassay-guided fractionation. Inhibitory effects of the extract, sub-extracts, fractions obtained by column chromatography, and isolated compounds on collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were performed by using in vitro enzyme inhibitory assays based on spectrophotometric evaluation. The methanolic extract obtained from P. canum exhibited strong inhibitory activities on elastase and collagenase while the insignificant activity was observed on hyaluronidase. Through bioactivity-guided fractionation, the ethyl acetate and remaining water sub-extracts obtained from the methanolic extract displayed significant inhibitory activities on collagenase and elastase, while petroleum ether and chloroform extracts did not show any inhibitory activity. Eleven known compounds: arbutin, 6́-O-caffeoylarbutin, cichoriin, 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid methyl ester, apigenin 7-O-ß-glucoside, luteolin 7-O-ß-glucoside, apigenin 7-O-ß-rutinoside, isoorientin, orientin, vitexin, procatechuic acid, and new compound 4-hydroxy-benzoic acid 4-(6-O-α-rhamnopyranosyl-ß-glucopyranosyl) benzyl ester have been obtained from ethyl acetate sub-extract. Results of the present study have revealed that apigenin 7-O-ß-glucoside, luteolin 7-O-ß-glucoside, apigenin 7-O-ß-rutinoside, and isoorientin showed potent enzyme inhibitory activities. However, methanolic extract of P. canum displayed a greater inhibitory activity than fractions and isolated compounds both on collagenase and elastase.

Inhibitory activity of Scorzonera latifolia and its components on enzymes connected with healing process.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Scorzonera latifolia (Fisch. & Mey.) DC. (Asteraceae) grows naturally in Eastern Anatolia, northeastern Iran, and Caucasus. Latex of S. latifolia roots is used in Turkish folk medicine for its analgesic effects, externally to cure infertility in women, and internally as an antihelmintic. The milk obtained from the stem of the Scorzonera species is used for wound healing activity. Antinociceptive, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities have previously been reported for S. latifolia. AIM OF THE STUDY: A methanol extract of the aerial parts of Scorzonera latifolia that had been shown to possess wound-healing activity, was used to elucidate the possible mechanism of the wound-healing activity and to identify the compound(s) responsible for the effect by means of bioassay-guided fractionation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The wound-healing activity potential of methanol extract of S. latifolia was detected by evaluating the inhibitory activity on the collagenase, hyaluronidase and elastase, which play important roles in the wound-healing process. Succesive fractionation of the methanol extract using petroleum ether, chloroform, ethyl acetate, respectively, and the residual wateryielded four respective fractions. The ethyl acetate part, which was determined as the most active fraction, was selected for further separation using chromatographic techniques. RESULTS: Ethylacetate fraction exhibited significant inhibitory activities on collagenase and elastase. Chromatographic separation of the ethylacetate extract yielded an active subfraction, from which was used to isolate quercetin-3-O-ß-apiofuranosyl-(1'''→2'')-ß-D-glucopyranoside (1), quercetin-3-O-α-rhamnopyranosyl-(1→6)-ß-D-galactopyranoside (2), isoorientin (3), and 7-methylisoorientin (4). Of the compounds tested, 7-methylisoorientin (4) exerted inhibitory activity on collagenase and elastase, while quercetin-3-O-ß-apiofuranosyl-(1'''→2'')-ß-glucopyranoside (1) inhibited collagenase only. None of the fractions, or isolated compounds showed any inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase. It must be mentioned, that in vitro tests showed that compounds 1-4 inhibit the collagenase and elastase and could help wound-healing process. However, the inhibititory effect of the methanol extract appears to be greater than that of both of the ethylacetate fraction, subfraction G and the isolated compounds, which suggest that a synergistic interaction of several compounds could be responsible for the wound-healing activity of the aerial parts of S. latifolia.

Light scattering determination of the stoichiometry for protease-potato serine protease inhibitor complexes.

The interaction between pancreatic proteases and a serine protease inhibitor purified from potato tubers was investigated by chromatography-coupled light scattering measurements. The molar mass distribution in the chromatogram was compared to theoretical values calculated for the different possible combinations of complexes and free components by three different approaches, namely section analyses of the chromatograms, full mass average determination and mass distribution analysis. This revealed that the inhibitor was able to bind trypsin in a 2:1 complex, whereas the data for chymotrypsin clearly showed a limitation to 1:1 complex regardless of the molar ratio in the injected samples. The same experiment carried out with elastase and the potato inhibitor gave only weak indications of complex formation under the conditions used.

Centaurea pumilio L. extract and nanoparticles: A candidate for healthy skin.

Centaurea pumilio was the subject of phytochemical and biological studies, and its extract was used in the green synthesis of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs). Liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization mass spectrometry allowed the tentative identification of twenty-nine phytoconstituents of C. pumilio methanolic extract (CME), while column chromatography led to the identification of eight phenolic compounds. The neutral red uptake method showed the safety of CME and AgNPs on skin cells (HaCaT cell lines), while their high antioxidant potentials were demonstrated based on their oxygen radical absorbance capacity, and these results were confirmed in vivo. Additionally, CME and AgNPs had promising abilities to retard the ageing process and combat dark spots by potently inhibiting collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase, in addition to antimicrobial activity against skin infection-causing strains, especially Staphylococcus aureus, which was further confirmed by the significant phagocytic activity of neutrophils via engulfment. This study presents C. pumilio as a candidate for healthy skin.

In Vitro Anticollagenase and Antielastase Activities of Essential Oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don.

The chemical composition of the essential oil of flowering aerial parts of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum cultivated in central Italy, Marche region, was analyzed by means of gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Seventy-eight components, accounting for 98.71% of the whole essential oil composition, were identified and quantified. Neryl acetate showed the largest relative abundance in the composition, accounting for 15.75% of the oil, followed by α-pinene (8.21%); 4,6,9-trimethyl-8-decene-3,5-dione, (Italidione I), (7.34%); ar-curcumene and ß-selinene (5.37%); γ-curcumene (4.83%); nerol (4.75%); α-selinene (4.68%); limonene (4.55%); linalool (4.42%), and 2,4,6,9-tetramethyl-8-decene-3,5-dione (Italidione II), (4.26%). The oil inhibited in vitro collagenase and elastase activities, with IC50 values of 36.99 ± 1.52 and 135.43 ± 6.32 µg/mL, respectively. Neryl acetate, nerol, and linalool, distinctive compounds of the oil obtained from this plant, tested alone or in mixture, at the same percentages shown in the essential oil, exhibited no activity against the two enzymes. On the contrary, α-pinene and limonene, tested alone and in mixture, showed inhibitory activity on both collagenase and elastase.

Protective effect of green tea catechin against urban fine dust particle-induced skin aging by regulation of NF-κB, AP-1, and MAPKs signaling pathways.

The increase in ambient fine dust particles (FDP) due to urbanization and industrialization has been identified as a major contributor to air pollution. It has become a serious issue that threatens human health because it causes respiratory diseases and skin aging. In the present study, the protective effect of the green tea catechin, (-)-epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), against FDP (ERM-CZ100)-stimulated skin aging in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) was investigated. The results demonstrate that EGCG significantly and dose-dependently scavenged intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in and increased the viability of FDP-stimulated HDFs. In addition, EGCG dose-dependently recovered collagen synthesis and inhibited intracellular elastase and collagenase activities. Moreover, EGCG decreased the expression of human matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) via regulation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), activator protein 1 (AP-1), and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) signaling pathways in FDP-stimulated HDFs. This study suggests that EGCG is a potential anti-aging candidate that can be used for FDP-induced skin aging as a therapeutic agent itself or as an ingredient in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products.

Biopharmaceutical Activities Related to Ellagic Acid, Chitosan, and Zein and Their Improvement by Association.

Ellagic acid (EA) has demonstrated several biological properties, such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, and enzymatic inhibition. Zein and chitosan (CHI) are natural polymers whose biological potential has also gained attention. Therefore, this paper aimed to evaluate the antimicrobial, antioxidant, anticollagenase, and antielastase properties of EA, zein, and chitosan isolated or in combination. The microdilution method was used to assess the minimum inhibitory and bactericide concentrations. The antioxidant activity was determined using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazila free radical scavenging method. The anticollagenase and antielastase activities were evaluated by specific colorimetric tests. EA has shown inhibitory activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa together with an antioxidant IC50 of 0.079 mg/mL. EA also showed significant collagenase and elastase inhibition. Zein has shown antimicrobial and antioxidant activities itself and enhanced sinergically the antioxidant activity and the antimicrobial activity against P. aeruginosa when combined with EA. CHI increased sinergically the inhibitory activity of EA against both bacterial strains, while showed itself an acceptable antimicrobial activity. 1 H saturation transfer-difference nuclear magnetic resonance experiment confirmed the formation of a complex between EA and zein that could be related with the improvement on its biological performance over the individual compounds, while no chemical interaction was detected between CHI and EA. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: The results reinforce the potential of ellagic acid in combination with zein and/or chitosan as an antimicrobial, antienzimatic, and antioxidant agent. Those findings reinforce the use of these substances, protecting this bioactive from degradation and/or improving the functional characteristics and biopharmaceutical properties.

Cosmetic and Skincare Benefits of Cultivated Mycelia from the Chinese Caterpillar Mushroom, Ophiocordyceps sinensis (Ascomycetes).

Mushrooms are potential sources of novel natural cosmeceutical ingredients. This study was conducted to evaluate the cosmetic (skincare) benefits of the valuable medicinal species Ophiocordyceps sinensis (=Cordyceps sinensis). The mycelial extracts of 2 O. sinensis strains, Cs-HK1 and Cs-4, prepared sequentially with ethyl acetate, ethanol, and hot water were tested with in vitro assays for tyrosinase-, collagenase-, and elastase-inhibitory activity. The ethyl acetate extracts of both fungal strains showed potent antityrosinase and antielastase activity, with low half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (0.14-0.47 mg/mL) comparable to those of the respective reference compounds (arbutin and epigallocatechin gallate). All mycelial extracts exhibited moderate or significant anticollagenase activity; most extracts showed a significant photoprotective effect with a sun protection factor up to 25. The results from this study show the potential use of O. sinensis as a source of cosmetic ingredients for skincare applications.