Biotransformed soybean cream as a new nutraceutical for skin care: collagen stimulation in vitro and ex vivo.

Treatments that attenuate the effects of hypoestrogenism in menopausal women have been gaining visibility. This study investigated the skin response to a phytoestrogen-enriched cosmetic formulation created by incorporating a biotransformed soybean extract (BE) into a cream-like matrix. Collagen-I expression was analyzed both in vitro (fibroblast cells) and ex vivo (skin explants). The results revealed an increased amount of collagen-I both in fibroblasts and human skin when treated with BE and BE-incorporated cream. Also, this collagen-I overexpression was inhibited by PHTPP, indicating a dependence on estrogen hormone receptor beta (ERß) signaling. Moreover, BE was not harmful to skin microbiota, showing a promising nutricosmetic potential. Thus, this work presented a fully functional cream-like formulation that was shown to be safe and effectively increase collagen-I levels both in vitro and ex vivo.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Effectiveness of zinc therapy for the treatment of pressure ulcers.

Pressure ulcers are a significant burden in healthcare settings, impacting patients' lives and incurring substantial costs. Nutrition, including the micronutrient zinc, plays a role in wound healing. However, controversy exists regarding zinc supplementation for pressure ulcer management. Further research is needed to determine the efficacy, optimal dosages, and safety of oral zinc supplementation. This commentary provides a critical appraisal of the systematic review conducted by Song et al (2020), which evaluates the efficacy of zinc therapy in the treatment of pressure sores, focusing on the implementation of the nutritional recommendations in context to practice.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones.

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Combining topical dermal infused exosomes with injected calcium hydroxylapatite for enhanced tissue biostimulation.

BACKGROUND: Exosome research continues to flourish. Subsequent knowledge surrounding indications, dose-response, safety, efficacy, and the ability to combine exosome treatment as a "skin primer"-for biostimulation modalities such as calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA), platelet-rich plasma (PRP), and platelet-rich fibrin matrix (PRFM) is growing rapidly. The objective of this study was to develop safe, reproducible methods of improving topical exosome absorption to enhance the quality of skin either by themselves, or in combination with injectable CaHA. METHODS: Under IRB Approval (International Cell Surgical Society: ICSS-2022-007), 40 patients were enrolled in this study. Twenty patients underwent facial biostimulatory dermal infusion alone, to determine if this method allowed adequate exosome absorption. Five patients underwent facial biostimulatory infusion followed immediately by Dilute CaHA injection (1:1 dilution) to the face. Five patients underwent exosome biostimulatory dermal infusion followed immediately by hyperdilute CaHA (dilution 1:4) injection to the neck. Five patients underwent Facial Dilute CaHA injection (1:1 dilution) alone, without dermal infusion. Five patients underwent neck hyperdilute CaHA injection (1:4 dilution) alone, without dermal infusion. All patients had pretreatment Quantificare 3-D photo-documentation and skin analysis (Quantificare, France). In all patients, the skin was first cleansed with a gentle glycolic acid facial wash (Gregory MD). To induce a "homing inflammatory environment" for the exosomes, sea salt exfoliation was performed (SaltFacial®, SaltMed, Cardiff, CA). A nitric oxide-generating serum (N101 Pneuma Nitric Oxide, Austin, TX) was then applied to act as an enhanced vehicle for absorption. A 3 MHz ultrasound (SaltFacial®, SaltMed, Cardiff, CA) was then utilized to further deepen the absorption of the nitric oxide serum. A topical emulsion containing equal volumes (1.0 cc containing 1 million) of exosomes (Kimera Labs, Miramar, FL), 25 units of botulinum toxin (Xeomin, Merz Aesthetics, Raleigh, NC) and hyaluronic acid (Belatero, Merz Aesthetics, Raleigh, NC) was mixed via back-and-forth propulsion in a 3-cc syringe. When adequately mixed, the emulsion was then applied to the treatment areas. The cavitating ultrasound was then used to aid in the absorption of the emulsion. The patients were then treated with high-intensity LED therapy (SaltFacial®, SaltMed, Cardiff, CA), utilizing the collagen restoration preset program of combination red (660 nm) near-infrared (930 nm) wavelength for 20 min. Post-treatment Quantificare analysis was performed at 15 and 30 days after treatment. RESULTS: Without exception, all dermal infusion alone and CaHA injection alone patients showed an improvement in the tone, quality, and texture of their skin. Quantificare results showed consistent improvement in wrinkles, pores, skin evenness, improved vascularity, and a reduction in oiliness and unwanted pigment. When employed as a skin primer prior to injections (CaHA), enhanced and more rapid results were seen. CONCLUSIONS: Biostimulatory dermal infusion can be achieved utilizing topical placental mesenchymal stem cell-derived exosomes. These exosomes can be used alone, or mixed with ancillary ingredients such as botulinum toxin, hyaluronic acid dermal filler, and CaHA to customize and personalize treatments based upon individual patient needs. Topical absorption is enhanced with sea salt exfoliation, a topical nitric oxide-generating serum, and 3 MHz cavitating ultrasound. Post-absorption activity is enhanced with high-intensity LED treatment. The addition of CaHA injections after the topical exosome "priming of the skin" yielded enhanced skin quality faster than exosomes or CaHA alone.

Effects of a Topical Growth Factor Regimen Following Pre-elected Cosmetic Facial Injection Procedures.

BACKGROUND: There are limited studies evaluating topical cosmetic skincare products following cosmetic facial injections. OBJECTIVE: An open-label study assessed a novel medical-grade topical skincare regimen following cosmetic facial injections. METHODS: The study enrolled 20 women with moderate to severe facial photodamage who used non–physician-dispensed skincare products and pre-elected to receive facial neuromodulator and hyaluronic acid (HA) dermal filler injections. All subjects continued regular skincare through week 4 after facial injection, then switched to the novel regimen (growth factor product, TNS Advanced+; day/night antioxidant serum system, Lumivive; HA-based hydrator, HA5; and basic skincare components) through week 16. RESULTS: At week 4, significant (P≤0.05) improvements from baseline were seen for multiple investigator-graded skin quality parameters, including overall photodamage, tactile roughness, and skin tone evenness, as well as fine and coarse lines/wrinkles. After switching to the novel regimen, additional significant improvements in overall skin quality and forehead, cheek, and perioral fine lines/wrinkles were observed at week 8 (all P≤0.05 vs week 4), which continued through week 16. CONCLUSION: This study highlights the importance of topical skincare in conjunction with cosmetic facial injections to holistically optimize overall skin quality and appearance. J Drugs Dermatol. 2023;21(1): doi:10.36849/JDD.7160.

Guidelines Relevant to Diagnosis, Assessment, and Management of Lymphedema: A Systematic Review.

Significance: Lymphedema is a common, distressing and debilitating condition with various etiologies. Effective diagnosis, assessment, and management rely on evidence-based clinical practice guidelines ("guidelines"). This study aims to describe and compare international guidelines on lymphedema diagnosis, assessment, and management. Recent Advances: The review was conducted according to Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines, and registered on the International Prospective Register of Systematic Reviews (PROSPERO). Systematic searches of electronic literature databases and the web were completed in December 2020 for lymphedema guidelines published in English since 2000. Quality was assessed using the Appraisal of Guidelines for Research and Evaluation (AGREE)-II reporting checklist. Synthesis took a narrative approach to compare guideline recommendations and associated levels of evidence. Critical Issues: This systematic review of 1,564 articles and 159 web pages yielded 14 guidelines. All guidelines were from high-income countries. Ten focused exclusively on lymphedema, and four on cancer. Most (n = 13) guidelines recommended an integrated medical, psychological assessment, and physical examination, with a limb volume measurement of >10% in the affected limb compared, confirming a lymphedema diagnosis. Recommended management involved Complex Decongestive Therapy (CDT) followed by self-management using skincare, self-lymphatic drainage massage, exercise, and compression. Future Directions: The underlying etiology of lymphedema appeared to make little difference to guideline recommendations regarding care. High-quality guidelines are available to guide lymphedema care. However, their suitability for low-resource settings is unclear.

Natural polyphenols: a promising bioactive compounds for skin care and cosmetics.

The physiological and morphological aspects of skin suffer from frequent change. Numerous internal and external factors have direct impact on inducing various skin problems like inflammation, aging, cancer, oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation etc. The use of plant polyphenols as a photo-ecting agent is gaining popularity nowadays. Polyphenols are known to enhance endogenic antioxidant system of skin thereby preventing various skin diseases. The biological activity of plant polyphenols is dependent on their physicochemical properties for overcoming the epidermal barriers to reach the specific receptor. Several evidences have reported the vital role polyphenols in mitigating adverse skin problems and reverting back the healthy skin condition. The interest in plant derived skin care products is emerging due to the changing notion of people to shift their focus towards use of plant-based products. The present review draws an attention to uncover the protective role of polyphenols in prevention of various skin problems. Several in vitro and in vivo studies have been summarized that claims the efficacious nature of plant extract having dermatological significance.

Topical interventions for preventing hand-foot syndrome resulting from antineoplastic therapy: A scoping review / Intervenciones tópicas para prevenir el síndrome mano-pie resultante de la terapia antineoplásica: revisión del alcance / Intervenções tópicas para prevenção de síndrome mão-pé decorrente de terapia antineoplásica: revisão de escopo

ABSTRACT Objective: To map topical interventions used to prevent hand-foot syndrome in cancer patients undergoing antineoplastic therapy. Method: This is a scoping review reported in accordance with the recommendations of PRISMA-ScR (extension for scoping review) and the Joanna Briggs Institute Manual. The searches were carried out in the electronic databases CINAHL, Cochrane CENTRAL, EMBASE, LILACS, LIVIVO, PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science; and gray literature (Google Scholar, Pro-Quest). Results: The searches resulted in 12,016 references and the final sample consisted of 45 studies. A total of 42 topical interventions were identified, including: moisturizing creams, corticosteroids, acids, mapisal, silymarin, and henna. However, urea was the most cited intervention (62%). As for the presentations of the interventions, they varied among creams, ointments, gels, hydrocolloids, decoctions, patches, powders, oils, and soaps. Conclusion: The results allowed reviewing topical interventions, with emphasis on the use of urea and moisturizing creams. However, most of the interventions identified in this review require evaluation in future studies for better understanding of their benefits.

RESUMEN Objetivo: Mapear las intervenciones tópicas utilizadas para prevenir el síndrome mano-pie en pacientes con cáncer sometidos a terapia antineoplásica. Método: Esta es una revisión del alcance reportada de acuerdo con las recomendaciones de PRISMA-ScR (extensión para la revisión del alcance) y el Manual del Instituto Joanna Briggs. Las búsquedas se realizaron en las bases de datos electrónicas CINAHL, Cochrane CENTRAL, EMBASE, LILACS, LIVIVO, PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science; y literatura gris (Google Scholar, Pro-Quest). Resultados: Las búsquedas resultaron en 12.016 referencias y la muestra final estuvo compuesta por 45 estudios. Se identificaron 42 intervenciones tópicas, entre ellas: cremas humectantes, corticoides, ácidos, mapisal, silimarina y henna. Sin embargo, la urea fue la intervención más citada (62%). En cuanto a las presentaciones de las intervenciones, variaron entre cremas, ungüentos, geles, hidrocoloides, decocciones, parches, polvos, aceites y jabones. Conclusión: Los resultados permitieron revisar las intervenciones tópicas, con énfasis en el uso de urea y cremas humectantes. Sin embargo, la mayoría de las intervenciones identificadas en esta revisión deben evaluarse en estudios futuros para mejor comprensión de sus beneficios.

RESUMO Objetivo: Mapear as intervenções tópicas utilizadas para a prevenção da síndrome mão-pé em pacientes com câncer em terapia antineoplásica. Método: Trata-se de uma revisão de escopo reportada de acordo com as recomendações do PRISMA-ScR (extensão para revisão de escopo) e o Manual do Instituto Joanna Briggs. As buscas foram realizadas nas bases eletrônicas CINAHL, Cochrane CENTRAL, EMBASE, LILACS, LIVIVO, PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science; e literatura cinzenta (Google Scholar, Pro-Quest). Resultados: As buscas resultaram em 12.016 referências e a amostra final foi composta por 45 estudos. Um total de 42 intervenções tópicas foram identificadas, dentre elas: cremes hidratantes, corticosteroides, ácidos, mapisal, silimarina e henna. Entretanto, a ureia foi a intervenção mais citada (62%). Quanto às apresentações das intervenções, estas variaram entre cremes, pomadas, géis, hidrocoloides, decocções, adesivos, pós, óleos e sabões. Conclusão: Os resultados possibilitaram uma recensão das intervenções tópicas, com destaque ao uso da ureia e cremes hidratantes. Todavia, grande parte das intervenções identificadas nesta revisão necessitam ser avaliadas, em estudos futuros, para melhor compreensão dos seus benefícios.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product.

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

SUPPLEMENT INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: Optimizing Skin Care in Acne Treatment - Evaluation of a Designated Cleanser and Moisturizer Regimen With Improvement in Clinical Outcomes.

Acne vulgaris (AV) is one of the most common skin disorders encountered in outpatient dermatology practice worldwide, commonly affecting adolescents, but also pre-teens and postadolescent adults of any race, ethnicity, and skin color.1.

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology.

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using "green solvents" (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract's composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.

Essentials of wound care: assessing and managing impaired skin integrity.

The assessment and management of impaired skin integrity as part of wound care is a common nursing task. Specific wound assessment tools may assist nurses to structure an assessment, but wider holistic factors also need to be considered. The TIMERS (tissue, inflammation and infection, moisture balance, edge, repair and regeneration, and social factors) tool offers a flexible approach to assessing wounds holistically and can be applied in all wound aetiologies. This article provides nurses with an overview of the assessment and management of impaired skin integrity using the TIMERS tool. It also discusses the importance of shared decision-making between nurses and patients when formulating a wound care regimen.

Promoting and Maintaining Skin Integrity in End-of-Life Care: A Systematic Review.

OBJECTIVE: To systematically review recommendations for promoting and maintaining skin integrity in end-of-life care and their level of evidence. DATA SOURCES: MEDLINE (PubMed interface), CINAHL (Cumulative Index to Nursing and Allied Health Literature), EMBASE, and The Cochrane Library were systematically searched using a combination of key terms including end-of-life care , skin care , skin hygiene , and skin cleansing . STUDY SELECTION: Articles were included if they (1) described skin care recommendations, including but not limited to the use of skin care products and interventions such as cleansing procedures; and (2) included adult patients who were expected to die within 12 months. There were no restrictions on study design, study setting, or language. Articles with a publication date before 2000 were excluded. DATA EXTRACTION: Two data extraction forms were developed. The first included information about the author, publication year, type of evidence, study topic, sample, sample size, setting, limitations of the study, level of evidence, and quality of the study. The second included recommendations for promoting and maintaining skin integrity in patients at the end of life. DATA SYNTHESIS: Because of methodological heterogeneity, results were synthesized narratively, and no meta-analysis was performed. CONCLUSIONS: The information contained in the recommendations will assist nurses in promoting and maintaining skin integrity in patients at the end of life. More research is needed on end-of-life skin care, with an emphasis on patient-centered, holistic strategies that improve patient well-being and quality of life. In most current research, recommendations are limited to literature reviews and level V evidence. Skin care must balance the promotion and maintenance of skin integrity, wound prevention, and management while promoting patient dignity and quality of life.

Epilobium angustifolium L. as a Potential Herbal Component of Topical Products for Skin Care and Treatment-A Review.

Epilobium angustifolium L. (EA) has been used as a topical agent since ancient times. There has been an increasing interest in applying EA as a raw material used topically in recent years. However, in the literature, there are not many reports on the comprehensive application of this plant to skin care and treatment. EA contains many valuable secondary metabolites, which determine antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antiproliferative activity effects. One of the most important active compounds found in EA is oenothein B (OeB), which increases the level of ROS and protects cells from oxidative damage. OeB also influences wound healing and reduces inflammation by strongly inhibiting hyaluronidase enzymes and inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. Other compounds that play a key role in the context of application to the skin are flavonoids, which inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase enzymes, showing anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. While terpenes in EA play an important role in fighting bacterial skin infections, causing, among other things cell membrane, permeability increase as well as the modification of the lipid profiles and the alteration of the adhesion of the pathogen to the animal cells. The available scientific information on the biological potential of natural compounds can be the basis for the wider use of EA in skin care and treatment. The aim of the article is to review the existing literature on the dermocosmetic use of E. angustifolium.

Role of Cica (Centella asiatica) in Skincare Formulations: Examination of a Popular Ingredient.

Skincare products containing ingredients derived from Centella asiatica, more commonly known as Cica, have become popular as anti-aging remedies, moisturizers, anti-inflammatory drugs, and in treating scars, wounds, and atopic dermatitis, among other skin conditions.1-7 Cica has been used in homeopathy for centuries to treat a variety of ailments.2,6 Due to the many purported benefits of its skincare formulations, we examined the mechanisms of cica and reviewed the existing literature in order to shed more light on its role in dermatology. (SKINmed. 2022;20:94-96).

Skin assessment in adults.

The skin has often been described in fictional literature as the window to the soul. It is the largest organ in the body and integral to both physical and psychosocial health. A complete skin assessment is essential for holistic care and must be completed by nurses and other health professionals on a regular basis. Providing patients and relatives with information on good skin hygiene can improve skin integrity and reduce the risk of pressure damage and skin tears.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations.

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC50 percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

Skin occlusive performance: Sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.

BACKGROUND: The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic, and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM: This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD: The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 min, 2 and 6 h of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6 h time course. CONCLUSION: Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients, and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 min post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications.

BACKGROUND: Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as 'active' ingredients rather than just providing for so-called 'natural' claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. METHOD: The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils - Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba - in terms of their cosmetic applications as 'active' ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. RESULTS: Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration and toxicity cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. CONCLUSION: They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

CONTEXTE: Un regain d'intérêt des consommateurs et du secteur pour les ingrédients naturels a conduit à une forte croissance des cosmétiques d'origine naturelle. Cet engouement a exercé une pression sur les compétences en matière de formulation et les allégations liées aux produits lorsqu'il s'agit d'utiliser des composés naturels. L'adoption d'une approche stratégique et exhaustive axée sur les ingrédients naturels, notamment les huiles naturelles, considérés comme des ingrédients «actifs¼ plutôt que de fournir des allégations liées à des produits dits naturels contribue à l'innovation et au développement. Compte tenu de la demande croissante des consommateurs en ingrédients naturels et qui plus est, de la demande en ingrédients naturels efficaces, dont les huiles végétales, il est important pour le secteur des cosmétiques de les réévaluer dans ce contexte. MÉTHODE: Cette revue vise à actualiser les connaissances ayant trait à trois huiles végétales souvent utilisées comme cosmétiques, à savoir les huiles d'amande douce, d'onagre et de jojoba, dans le cadre des applications cosmétiques où elles jouent un rôle de substances actives. Elle souligne le caractère actif de ces huiles dans la prise en charge de la peau sèche, du vieillissement de la peau, de la peau jeune, de la dermatite atopique, des affections du cuir chevelu et de leur potentiel d'utilisation plus large. Une attention particulière est accordée aux questions relatives à la formulation lorsque la teneur en ces huiles affecte l'oxydation du produit, la pénétration dans la peau et l'homéostasie de la couche cornée. RÉSULTATS: Les bénéfices des huiles examinées apparaissent bien documentés, tant au niveau clinique que préclinique. Historiquement, ces huiles sont utilisées depuis des centaines, voire des milliers d'années, pour la prise en charge et le traitement de diverses affections cutanées et extra-cutanées. Compte tenu des divergences parmi certaines des données cliniques présentées pour de multiples dermatoses, il est important de ne pas sous-estimer l'importance du choix de l'huile et de sa formulation eu égard à la fonction barrière de l'épiderme, à la pénétration cutanée et à la toxicité. Des précautions doivent être prises en termes de qualité et de stabilité de ces huiles, ainsi que pour garantir une formulation choisie au mieux, si les activités signalées de ces huiles soient obtenues avec cohérence. Malgré les divergences d'une étude à l'autre et les conceptions critiquables de certaines études, il apparaît clairement que les huiles d'amande douce, d'onagre et de jojoba apportent des bénéfices tant dans leurs applications pour adultes que pour enfants. CONCLUSION: Ces huiles constituent des ingrédients efficaces pour les préparations de soins de la peau en termes de renforcement de l'intégrité de la couche cornée, ainsi que de l'amélioration de sa récupération et de son rapport lipidique. Toutefois, d'autres données expérimentales demeurent nécessaires en ce qui concerne leur impact sur la physiologie et la structure de la couche cornée.