Study of the Influence of Formulation Variables in Bioadhesive Emulgels Using Response Surface Methodology.

The aim of the present work was to study the main formulation variables that influence attributes of bioadhesive emulgels based on a combination of polymers, using response surface methodology (RSM). Bioadhesive products continue to gain attention in topical cutaneous administration as they allow long residence times on the application site, which is important when a long dermal action and a reduced product administration frequency are desired. A Box-Behnken design of experiments (DoE) was introduced to study the effect of formulation variables on quality attributes of the emulgels. The effects of concentration of carbomer interpolymer type A (Polym1), xanthan gum (Polym2) and mineral oil (Oil) on detachment force (Fdetch), spreadability (Spread), and phase separation by mechanical stress (PhSep) were investigated. RSM and desirability functions were applied for data analysis. Emulgels were further characterized by viscosity and extrudability measurements. Polym1 showed a positive effect on Fdetch, while the increase in concentrations of Polym2 and Oil decreased this property. Polym1 and Polym2 favored emulgel PhSep. However, their interaction effect decreased it. The combination of 0.4-0.6% of carbomer and 0.2-0.3% of gum was able to produce easy-to-spread bioadhesive emulgels with mineral oil as discontinuous phase in the presence of a low surfactant concentration. Based on the DoE results, value ranges for the variables, which could achieve for the experimental domain to get the critical quality attributes of emulgels jointly within the specification limits, were able to be identified using RSM supported by desirability functions.

Selection of fragrance for cosmetic cream containing olive oil.

Perceptions of essences for potential use in the development of a line of cosmetic emulsions containing olive oil were studied. Six cream samples prepared with six essences selected in a preliminary study were evaluated for overall liking and intention to purchase by a 63-women sample. A check-all-that-apply (CATA) question consisting of 32 terms was used to gather information about consumer perceptions of fragrance, affective associations, effects on the skin, price, target market, zones of application, and occasions of use. Hierarchical cluster analysis led to the identification of two consumer clusters with different frequency of use of face creams. The two clusters assigned different overall liking scores to the samples and used the CATA terms differently to describe them. A fragrance with jasmine as its principal note was selected for further development of cosmetic creams, as it was awarded the highest overall liking scores by respondents of the two clusters, and was significantly associated with cosmetic features including nourishing, moisturizing, softening, with a delicious and mild smell, and with a natural image, as well as being considered suitable for face and body creams. The use of CATA questions enabled the rapid identification of attributes associated by respondents with a cosmetic cream's fragrance, in addition to contributing relevant information for the definition of marketing and communication strategies.

Sensory characterization of virgin olive oil-based cosmetic creams.

The influence of olive oil concentration and sensory profile on the odor of virgin olive oil-based cosmetic creams was studied. Four olive oils were selected on the basis of different intensities of positive and defective odor attributes: two extra virgin olive oils, one virgin olive oil, and one ordinary virgin olive oil. Thirty cosmetic creams were prepared, by both cold and hot processing methods, using each of the above oils at concentrations of 3%, 5%, and 10%, in addition to mineral oil controls. A trained sensory panel evaluated the fruitiness and defectiveness intensities in the odor of creams, using unstructured 10-cm scales ranging from "none at all" to "much." The fruity and defective attributes perceived in the odor of creams were significantly influenced by the sensory profile of the starting olive oil, oil concentration, and preparation method. Overall, these findings suggest that virgin olive oils of only slightly fruity odor may be conveniently used for the preparation of cold-processed cosmetic creams, whereas ordinary virgin olive oils appear to be suitable for the preparation of cosmetic creams only by hot processing of the emulsion at a low oil concentration.