Liposomal Encapsulation of Ascorbyl Palmitate: Influence on Skin Performance.

L-ascorbic acid represents one of the most potent antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentation cosmeceutical agents, with a good safety profile. However, the main challenge is the formulation of stable topical formulation products, which would optimize the penetrability of L-ascorbic acid through the skin. The aim of our research was to evaluate the performance of ascorbyl palmitate on the skin, incorporated in creams and emulgels (2%) as carriers, as well as to determine the impact of its incorporation into liposomes on the penetration profile of this ingredient. Tape stripping was used to study the penetration of ascorbyl palmitate into the stratum corneum. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of the formulations were determined. The liposomal formulations exhibited a better penetration profile (p < 0.05) of the active substance compared to the non-liposomal counterpart, leading to a 1.3-fold and 1.2 fold-increase in the total amount of penetrated ascorbyl palmitate in the stratum corneum for the emulgel and cream, respectively. Encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate into liposomes led to an increase in the adhesiveness and density of the prepared cream and emulgel samples. The best spreadability and absorption during application were detected in liposomal samples. The obtained results confirmed that liposomal encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate improved dermal penetration for both the cream and emulgel formulations.

Comprehensive Insight into Cutaneous Application of Hemp.

Known for its natural bio-compounds and therapeutic properties, hemp is being utilized in the development of skin products. These products offer a wide range of applications and benefits in the fields of natural bio-compounds, pharmaceutical technology, topical delivery systems, and cosmeceuticals. This manuscript deals with hemp actives, such as cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids, and their diverse biological properties relative to topical application, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects. Also, the paper reviews strategies to overcome poor penetration of hemp actives, as well as the integration of hemp actives in cosmeceuticals that provide natural and sustainable alternatives to traditional skincare products offering a range of benefits, including anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. The review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the development and manufacturing processes of skin products containing hemp actives. By delving into the science behind hemp-based products, the paper provides valuable insights into the potential of hemp as a versatile ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The utilization of hemp in these innovative products not only offers therapeutic benefits but also promotes natural and sustainable approaches to skincare.

Derivatives of L-Ascorbic Acid in Emulgel: Development and Comprehensive Evaluation of the Topical Delivery System.

The dual controlled release of emulgels makes them efficient drug delivery systems of increasing interest. The framework of this study was to incorporate selected L-ascorbic acid derivatives into emulgels. From the formulated emulgels, the release profiles of actives were evaluated considering their different polarities and concentrations, and consequently their effectiveness on the skin via a long-term in vivo study that lasted for 30 days was determined. Skin effects were assessed by measuring the electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum (EC), trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index (MI) and skin pH. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of emulgel formulations were compared with each other. The changes in the rate of the release of the L-ascorbic acid derivatives were monitored using the Franz diffusion cells. The obtained data were statistically significant, and indicated an increase in the degree of hydration of the skin and skin whitening potential, while no significant changes in TEWL and pH values were detected. The consistency, firmness and stickiness of the emulgels were estimated by volunteers applying the established sensory evaluation protocol. In addition, it was revealed that the difference in hydrophilic/lipophilic properties of L-ascorbic acid derivatives influenced their release profiles without changing their textural characteristics. Therefore, this study highlighted emulgels as L-ascorbic acid suitable carrier systems and one of the promising candidates as novel drug delivery systems.

Towards a modern approach to traditional use of Helichrysum italicum in dermatological conditions: In vivo testing supercritical extract on artificially irritated skin.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Helichrysum italicum has been widely used in traditional medicine to treat allergies, colds, cough, skin, liver and gallbladder disorders, inflammation, infections, and sleeplessness. Furthermore, it possesses considerable wound healing and skin protective properties, documented by several in vivo studies performed on animals. However, there is a lack of experimental evidence supporting its potential as a topical agent tested by human clinical trials. AIM OF THE STUDY: The study aimed to investigate the skin protective activity of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric, impregnated with H. italicum extract by the integrated supercritical CO2 extraction-supercritical solvent impregnation process. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The integrated process of supercritical CO2 extraction of H. italicum and the impregnation of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric was performed under 350 bar and 40 °C with and without the addition of ethanol as a cosolvent. Impregnated textile materials were tested in vivo for their bioactivity on irritated human skin. Randomized in vivo studies performed involved assays of both safety and efficacy of the impregnated textiles. The effects were evaluated using the in vivo non-invasive biophysical measurements of the following skin parameters: electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, and skin pH. RESULTS: Both cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric were impregnated with H. italicum extracts under supercritical conditions with considerable values of the impregnation yield (1.97%-4.25%). The addition of ethanol as a cosolvent during the process caused significant changes in the incorporated extracts' impregnation yield and chemical profile. Both impregnated textile materials were safe, evaluated by their testing on the human skin with no cause of any irritation and redness. However, efficacy studies revealed that polypropylene non-woven fabric impregnated with H. italicum extract with ethanol as a cosolvent, possessed significantly greater potential for skin protection than the other investigated samples. CONCLUSIONS: The present study demonstrated the feasibility of the combined supercritical extraction and impregnation process in developing materials for topical application based on H. italicum extract. The results of in vivo studies performed on human volunteers confirmed the suitability of H. italicum active components to be a part of human skin protective preparations because of their ability to maintain the skin unimpaired. Traditionally claimed applications as a medicinal plant capable of regenerating skin have been scientifically proven, in addition to employing green technology in obtaining the impregnated materials with a broad spectrum of utilization.

Conventional vs. Green Extraction Using Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents-Differences in the Composition of Soluble Unbound Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidant Activity.

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of the use of green solvents, natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES), in comparison with conventional solvents on the extraction of free unbound phenolic compounds and the antioxidant activity of extracts of dried bilberry fruit, bilberry leaves and green tea leaves. After preparation of the extracts via ultrasound-assisted extraction using NaDES and conventional solvents (water and ethanol), spectrophotometric determination of total phenolic and flavonoid content, HPLC analysis of extracted polyphenols and antioxidant determination using FRAP, DPPH and ABTS assays were conducted. The results showed that NaDES have a great potential as agents for the extraction of phenolic compounds with potent antioxidant activity; the highest values of phenolic content and antioxidant activity were detected in the samples obtained by extraction using the NaDES combination betaine + urea. The bilberry leaves exhibited the highest flavonoid content among all extracts and turned out to be more active than bilberry fruits, to which they are often just a by-product during processing. The most active extract of all was the betaine-urea green tea leaves extract. Further research into the most active NaDES extracts should be performed.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration-In vitro and in vivo evaluation.

BACKGROUND: Wild apple fruit is rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products. AIM: The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12%, and 15% of extract EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application. METHODS: Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparison of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, and skin pH after 28 days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin. RESULTS: Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract EU (2001.57 ± 0.87 mg PP/100 g EU) and satisfactory in cream CE6 (53.83 ± 0.23 mg PP/100 g CE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28 days ΔEC was 21.19 ± 7.59, 26.71 ± 7.94, and 29.60 ± 10.95 for CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values. CONCLUSION: Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil).

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Old Plant, New Possibilities: Wild Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L., Ericaceae) in Topical Skin Preparation.

Bilberry represents a valuable source of antioxidant substances responsible for its application for the treatment of different conditions (such as inflammation, cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and different age-related diseases) associated with increased oxidative stress. As oxidative stress might cause skin impairments, we aim to evaluate a topical preparation containing bilberry leaves extract and bilberry seeds oil, obtained as a byproduct of the food industry. To obtain the extracts, the conventional maceration technique for leaves, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction for seeds were employed. The chemical profile of both actives was achieved by HPLC and GC methods, revealing the presence of phenolic acids (chlorogenic being the most abundant), flavonoids (isoquercetin in the highest amount), and resveratrol in leaves extract, while in seeds oil the essential ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids were determined in favorable ratio, almost being 1. Antioxidant potential of the wild bilberry extract and seed oil was evaluated using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays. Finally, effects of the oil-in-water creams with mentioned wild bilberry isolates on the skin were investigated in an in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, revealing the significant beneficial effects when topically applied.

Anatomical and histological characteristics of the lungs in the ground squirrel (Spermophilus citellus).

The aim of this work was to study the topography, morphology, vascularisation, histology and innervation of the lungs in the ground squirrel (Spermophilus citellus) and compare these data with those concerning the rat, mole rat, rabbit and mouse. The research was carried out on 15 animals. It was revealed that the right lung has four lobes (cranial, middle, caudal and accessory lobes), while the left lung is not divided into segments. The functional vessels are a. pulmonalis dextra et sinistra and vv. pulmonales (5-6), while the nutritive vessels of the lungs are a. bronchoesophagea dextra and v. bronchoesophagea dextra. Histological tissue sections of the lungs revealed that the wall of terminal bronchioles contains no cartilage and the mucosal epithelium is pseudostratified, cubic and ciliated. Clara cells (club cells, bronchiolar exocrine cells) are present but have no cilia. The lung alveolar diameter is 37 µm on average, and the thickness of the alveolar wall and the interalveolar septa is 1.38 µm. Destruction of the alveolar walls, accumulation of erythrocytes in the capillaries of alveolar septa and destruction of the cytolemma of the capillary endothelium were detected. In addition, connective tissue fibres and peripheral nerves were detected by silver impregnation.

Angiotensin receptor blockers & endothelial dysfunction: Possible correlation & therapeutic implications.

The endothelium is one of the most important constituents of vascular homeostasis, which is achieved through continual and balanced production of different relaxing and contractile factors. When there is a pathological disturbance in release of these products, endothelial dysfunction (ED) will probably occur. ED is considered to be the initial step in the development of atherosclerosis. This pathological activation and inadequate functioning of endothelial cells was shown to be to some extent a reversible process, which all together resulted in increased interest in investigation of different beneficial treatment options. To this point, the pharmacological approach, including for example, the use of angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitors or statins, was clearly shown to be effective in the improvement of ED. One of many critical issues underlying ED represents instability in the balance between nitric oxide and angiotensin II (Ang II) production. Considering that Ang II was confirmed to be important for the development of ED, the aim of this review article was to summarize the findings of up to date clinical studies associated with therapeutic application of angiotensin receptor blockers and improvement in ED. In addition, it was of interest to review the pleiotropic actions of angiotensin receptor blockers linked to the improvement of ED. The prospective, randomized, double-blind, placebo or active-controlled clinical trials were identified and selected for the final evaluation.

Multidimensional aspects of pain in myotonic dystrophies.

To analyze the frequency and intensity of pain and its association with different characteristics of patients with myotonic dystrophy type 1 (DM1) and type 2 (DM2), 52 adult genetically confirmed DM1 and 44 DM2 patients completed the Brief Pain Inventory questionnaire (BPI). Frequency and average intensity of pain on numerical rating scale (0-10) were similar in DM1 and DM2 (88% vs. 86% and 4.6 ± 2.3 vs. 4.2 ± 1.8, respectively, p > 0.05). In DM1, average pain intensity showed strong association with longer duration of disease and inverse relation with cognition. In DM2, average pain intensity showed association with female gender and emotions. Average pain intensity correlated with Individualized Neuromuscular Quality of Life (INQoL) total score in both DM1 (rho = +0.30, p < 0.05) and DM2 patients (rho = +0.61, p < 0.01). In conclusion, the majority of DM1 and DM2 patients have mild to moderate pain. Our results open new opportunities for behavioral and cognitive interventions.