Drug repurposing for regenerative medicine and cosmetics: Scientific, technological and economic issues.

Regenerative medicine and cosmetics are currently two outstanding fields for drug discovery. Although many pharmaceutical products for regenerative medicine and cosmetics have received approval by official agencies, several challenges are still needed to overcome, especially financial and time issues. As a result, drug repositioning, which is the usage of previously approved drugs for new treatment, stands out as a promising approach to tackle these problems. Recently, increasing scientific evidence is collected to demonstrate the applicability of this novel method in the field of regenerative medicine and cosmetics. Experts in drug development have also taken advantage of novel technologies to discover new candidates for repositioning purposes following computational approach, one of two main approaches of drug repositioning. Therefore, numerous repurposed candidates have obtained approval to enter the market and have witnessed financial success such as minoxidil and fingolimod. The benefits of drug repositioning are undeniable for regenerative medicine and cosmetics. However, some aspects still need to be carefully considered regarding this method including actual effectiveness during clinical trials, patent regulations, data integration and analysis, publicly unavailable databases as well as environmental concerns and more effort are required to overcome these obstacles.

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy.

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

Artificial intelligence-based prescription of personalized scalp cosmetics improved the scalp condition: efficacy results from 100 participants.

Background: Scalp-related symptoms such as dandruff and itching are common with diverse underlying etiologies. We previously proposed a novel classification and scoring system for scalp conditions, called the scalp photographic index (SPI); it grades five scalp features using trichoscopic images with good reliability. However, it requires trained evaluators.Aim: To develop artificial intelligence (AI) algorithms for assessment of scalp conditions and to assess the feasibility of AI-based recommendations on personalized scalp cosmetics.Methods: Using EfficientNet, convolutional neural network (CNN) models (SPI-AI) ofeach scalp feature were established. 101,027 magnified scalp images graded according to the SPI scoring were used for training, validation, and testing the model Adults with scalp discomfort were prescribed shampoos and scalp serums personalized according to their SPI-AI-defined scalp types. Using the SPI, the scalp conditions were evaluated at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12 of treatment.Results: The accuracies of the SPI-AI for dryness, oiliness, erythema, folliculitis, and dandruff were 91.3%, 90.5%, 89.6%, 87.3%, and 95.2%, respectively. Overall, 100 individuals completed the 4-week study; 43 of these participated in an extension study until week 12. The total SPI score decreased from 32.70 ± 7.40 at baseline to 15.97 ± 4.68 at week 4 (p < 0.001). The efficacy was maintained throughout 12 weeks.Conclusions: SPI-AI accurately assessed the scalp condition. AI-based prescription of tailored scalp cosmetics could significantly improve scalp health.

Efficacy of castor oil cream in treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation: An exploratory single-arm clinical trial.

INTRODUCTION: Infraorbital hyperpigmentation represents one of the most prevalent conditions in cosmetic dermatology. To treat this condition, many patients prefer natural remedies. This study explored the efficacy of topical castor oil cream in treating patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. METHODS: We conducted an exploratory single-arm clinical trial at the Shahid Faghihi Dermatology Clinic and Molecular Dermatology Research Center of Shiraz University of Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran, during 2021-2022. Using the convenience sampling method, we enrolled 25 patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. We instructed the patients to apply topical castor oil cream twice daily for 2 months. The darkness, melanin, and erythema levels were evaluated by VisioFace® 1000 D and SkinColorCatch® devices. We used a visual analog scale to assess skin laxity, wrinkles, and patient satisfaction. Data analysis was done with Stata version 14.2. RESULTS: The data of 22 patients with a mean age of 40.92 ± 7.33 years were analyzed. The VisioFace® scores decreased significantly by the end of the study [right eyes: mean difference (MD): -5.63 (95% CI: -7.12 to -4.15), p < 0.001; left eyes: MD: -5.91 (95% CI: -7.46 to -4.36), p < 0.001]. Moreover, castor oil cream significantly reduced the melanin level, wrinkles, and skin laxity in the infraorbital region (p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: Castor oil cream seems to be an effective alternative for treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation. Randomized clinical trials are needed to confirm our findings.

The role of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in promoting skin immunity and its regenerative abilities: Implications for antiaging skincare.

INTRODUCTION: Recent advancements in cosmetic science have ushered in a new era of skincare strategies, with a focus on utilizing natural bioactive ingredients to enhance skin health and combat premature aging. The skin, as the largest organ of human body, provides as a vital protective barrier against external hazards such as environmental pollutions, toxins, and radiation. However, intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including various types of radiation, reduced air quality, and increased exposure to pollutants, lead to an imbalance in the skin's immune system, significantly reducing the skin's ability to regenerate and accelerating skin aging. Therefore, there is an emerging need to develop innovative skincare strategies that could support the skin's immune capacity by strengthening antioxidant protection, skin regeneration, and repair. Plant-derived compounds, along with naturally sourced ingredients, show promise in accelerating wound healing, especially when incorporated into cosmetic formulation. ImmunatuRNA® stands as a prime example of a biologically active complex, uniquely comprising yeast-derived RNA, marine exopolysaccharides, and natural hyaluronic acid, that exhibits high antioxidant activity and exerts beneficial modulatory effects on skin microbiota, thereby positively influencing skin immunity. METHODOLOGY: The main aim of this study was to investigate the potential of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in promoting skin regeneration and reducing signs of skin aging, both through the use of in vitro human skin cultures and the evaluation of clinical trials in healthy volunteers. RESULTS: The results of conducted experimental studies have shown that the ImmunatuRNA® complex demonstrated significant positive effects on the immunity and repair capabilities of the skin, characterized by increased fibroblast proliferation, enhanced glycosaminoglycan synthesis, and reduced oxidative stress. Furthermore, use of the complex also significantly accelerated wound healing following mechanically-induced damage in the keratinocytes, demonstrated as reduction in wound margins measurement, new cell production, and an increase in regeneration speed. In addition, conduced clinical study on healthy human volunteers with various skin types confirmed that use of cosmetic products that incorporate the ImmunatuRNA® complex within the formulation can visibly improve skin condition, appearance, and general health, achieved by increased skin hydration and elasticity, reduced wrinkles, and enhanced skin firmness. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms the usefulness of the ImmunatuRNA® complex in the innovative antiaging cosmetic products that can be suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The inclusion of naturally sourced bioactives, as those found in ImmunatuRNA® complex, represents a promising advancement in holistic natural skincare that consumers appreciate. The active ingredients of the complex support the skin's immunity, fostering its repair and protecting against oxidative damage, thus maintaining skin homeostasis and promoting its regenerative capacity. Further research is necessary to explore the long-term effects of ImmunatuRNA® complex on skin health and its potential applications in innovative skincare formulations.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne.

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process. With age, intrinsic and extrinsic factors cause the loss of skin elasticity, with the formation of wrinkles, resulting in skin sagging through various pathways. A combination of multiple bioactive peptides could be used as a treatment for skin wrinkles and sagging. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of a multi-peptide eye serum as a daily skin-care product for improving the periocular skin of women within the ages of 20-45 years. METHODS: The stratum corneum skin hydration and skin elasticity were assessed using a Corneometer CM825 and Skin Elastometer MPA580, respectively. The PRIMOS CR technique based on digital strip projection technology was used for skin image and wrinkle analysis around the "crow's feet" area. Self-assessment questionnaires were filled on Day 14 and 28 of product use. RESULTS: This study included 32 subjects with an average age of 28.5 years. On Day 28, there was a significant decrease in the number, depth, and volume of wrinkles. Skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased continuously during the study period, consistent with typical anti-aging claims. A majority of the participants (75.00%) expressed overall satisfaction with their skin appearance after using the product. Most participants noted a visible skin improvement, with an increase in skin elasticity and smoothness, and confirmed the extensibility, applicability, and temperance of the product. No adverse reactions related to product use were observed. CONCLUSIONS: The multi-peptide eye serum uses a multi-targeted mechanism against skin aging to improve the skin appearance, making it an ideal choice for daily skincare.

Tolerability and effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product containing Silybum marianum fruit extract in adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin: An international, phase IV, longitudinal study.

BACKGROUND: Dermocosmetic products are often used to maintain or enhance the tolerance and effectiveness of medical anti-acne therapies. Recent discoveries about the pathophysiology of acne-prone skin indicate that skincare products may help maintain homeostasis around the sebaceous gland progenitor cells, thereby preventing microcomedone formation. AIMS: To evaluate the tolerance and effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product containing Silybum marianum fruit extract (SMFE) in adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin. PATIENTS/METHODS: This real-life, international, observational, multicenter study was conducted in patients aged 12-25 years with mild-to-moderate acne. Patients (N = 4230) used the product twice daily for 8-12 weeks, either alone before ("initial group") or after an anti-acne therapy ("maintenance group"), or in association with their usual prescribed anti-acne therapies ("association group"). The tolerance, effectiveness, and cosmetic properties of the product were assessed. Patient quality of life (QoL) was also evaluated. RESULTS: Dermatologists rated the tolerance of the product as "good" or "very good" in about 95% of the patients and the effectiveness of the product as "effective" or "highly effective" in about 80% of the patients, with a significant reduction in the mean global evaluation of acne (GEA) grade (-36% ± 39%, p < 0.0001) at study end. The QoL of most patients (80%) improved by the end of the study, and the majority (79% to 94%) appreciated the cosmetic properties of the product. Overall, the product was a clinical success in >84% of patients. CONCLUSIONS: This dermocosmetic product can be used by adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin to limit the initial or chronic use of medical anti-acne therapies.

Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin.

INTRODUCTION: Asian subjects are particularly prone to skin sensitivity. We developed a facial cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol to provide skin comfort and a soothing effect for sensitive skin. OBJECTIVES: Assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance and efficacy in improving skin sensitivity of face cream and balm under normal conditions of use by a population known to be particularly prone to this problem. METHODS: In a monocentric non-randomized open trial, the cream or balm was applied twice daily to the face, neck, and eye contour of 33 stinger subjects with hypersensitive skin (22-63 years old). Assessments included dermatological and ophthalmological physical and functional signs on Day 1 (D1), D8, and D22, and cosmetic acceptability, cutaneous sensitivity according to a stinging test and the sensitive scale, and the soothing efficacy according to a questionnaire on D22. RESULTS: The cream and balm were very well tolerated. Immediately after application, subjects reported a reduction in the skin's hypersensitivity (93.9% of subjects for the cream and 81.8% for the balm), skin redness (90.9% of subjects for the cream and 87.9% for the balm), sensations of tightness (93.9% for the cream and 97.0% for the balm), and discomfort sensations (93.9% for the cream and 87.9% for the balm). After 21 days, the application of the cream and balm decreased the stinging scores by 65% and 41%, respectively, with 94% and 77% of subjects showing an improvement, respectively. The sensitivity scale questionnaire indicated that the cream and balm significantly and profoundly decreased all negative signs, for example, irritability, stinging, general discomfort, redness, and dryness on D22 compared to D1. On D22, all 15 parameters recorded were improved by 89%-100% by the cream and by 74%-100% by the balm. The majority (90.9% and 96.8% of subjects using the cream and balm, respectively) of the subjects noticed positive changes in their skin condition after using the product for 21 days. CONCLUSIONS: The cream and balm were very well-tolerated. This study demonstrated that both products controlled and markedly reduced skin hypersensitivity in Asian subjects, with an immediate and lasting skin soothing and repairing effect over 21 days.

INTRODUCTION: Les sujets asiatiques ont particulièrement tendance à avoir une peau sensible. Nous avons développé une crème et un baume pour le visage, contenant du 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pour apporter confort cutané et effet apaisant aux peaux sensibles. OBJECTIFS: Evaluer la tolérance dermatologique et ophtalmologique ainsi que l'efficacité d'une crème et d'un baume pour le visage dans l'amélioration de la sensibilité cutanée, en conditions normales d'utilisation par une population connue pour être particulièrement sujette à ce problème. MÉTHODES: Dans une étude monocentrique, non randomisée et ouverte, la crème et le baume ont été appliqués deux fois par jour sur le visage, le cou et le contour des yeux de 33 sujets stingers présentant une peau hypersensible (de 22 à 63 ans). Les évaluations incluaient une analyse des signes dermatologiques et ophtalmologiques physiques et fonctionnels le Jour 1 (J1), J8, et J22 ; l'acceptabilité cosmétique, la sensibilité cutanée selon un stinging test et l'échelle de sensibilité, et l'effet apaisant selon un questionnaire à J22. RÉSULTATS: La crème et le baume ont été très bien tolérés. Immédiatement après application, les sujets ont rapporté une réduction de l'hypersensibilité cutanée (93.9% de sujets pour la crème, 81.8% pour le baume), des rougeurs de la peau (90.9% de sujets pour la crème, 87.9% pour le baume), des sensations de tiraillement (93.9% de sujets pour la crème, 97.0% pour le baume), et des sensations d'inconfort (93.9% de sujets pour la crème, 87.9% pour le baume). Après 21 jours, l'application de la crème et ou du baume a permis de diminuer les stinging scores respectivement de 65% et 41%, avec 94% et 77% de sujets présentant une amélioration. Le questionnaire de l'échelle de sensibilité a démontré que la crème et le baume ont significativement et fortement réduit tous les signes négatifs comme l'irritabilité, les picotements, l'inconfort général, les rougeurs et la sécheresse à J22 comparé à J1. A J22, l'ensemble des 15 paramètres suivis ont été améliorés de 89-100% par la crème et de 74-100% par le baume. Après usage du produit pendant 21 jours, la majorité des sujets (90.9% et 96.8% des sujets utilisant respectivement la crème ou le baume) a remarqué des changements positifs sur l'état de leur peau. CONCLUSIONS: La crème et le baume ont été très bien tolérés. Cette étude a démontré que ces deux produits contrôlaient et réduisaient nettement l'hypersensibilité de la peau de sujets asiatiques, avec un effet apaisant et réparateur immédiat et durable sur la peau durant 21 jours.

SUPPLEMENT ARTICLE: Retinol: The Ideal Retinoid for Cosmetic Solutions.

Retinoids are a mainstay of dermatologic therapy. Although prescription retinoids are more potent than over the counter retinoids, when properly formulated cosmetic retinoids offer consumers an easily accessible, reasonably priced therapeutic option. Retinol has been shown to improve fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin roughness, and the appearance of photoaged skin. The efficacy and tolerability of retinol makes it preferable to prescription retinoids as many patients are intolerant of these more potent forms. In this review, we will discuss the pharmacokinetics of retinol and the clinical studies confirming its efficacy, tolerability, and safety with long-term use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21:7(Suppl):s4-10.

Diabetic dermopathy: A vascular complication equivalent.

Diabetic dermopathy (DD) is a common complication of long-standing diabetes, and is often seen in association with chronic micro- and macro-vascular dysfunction. Hence, it can be considered an equivalent of vascular complications of diabetes. Our article focuses on a proactive approach to its management, involving both dermo-cosmetic and metabolic targeted therapies. A combination of occlusive and humectant moisturisers, with anti-inflammatory and pro-regenerative topical treatments, can help manage and minimize DD, while preventing its complications. We term such topical preparations as 'healing moisturisers' or 'regenerative moisturisers.

Novel nanotechnological approaches for treatment of skin-aging.

One of the essential organs and protective barricades, the skin, needs to be taken care of early. Skin is affected by several intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and despite their morphological and pathological differences, they have many molecular similarities. As of today, various mechanisms and theories have been recommended for aging, such as cellular anility, reduced proliferative tendency, reduction in length of telomere, mutations in DNA, theory of free radical generation, and many others. In today's society, skin health is often considered an important indicator of health, which has led to an increased demand for anti-aging products. However, numerous conventional cosmetics and phytocompounds (curcumin, Vitamin E, resveratrol) utilized in anti-aging products have inimical physical and chemical attributes, including insufficient chemical stability and inadequate skin penetration bound their effectuality after topical administration. So recently, new novel nanotechnological approaches for preventing skin aging, such as liposomes, niosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, transferosomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, and carbon nanotubes, are being used. Hence, the field of cosmeceutical nanomaterials is rapidly evolving, and we can look forward to seeing a variety of innovative nanotechnology-based cosmetic products be a game-changer for this multi-million anti-aging cosmetic industry.

Ethnopharmacology for Skin Diseases and Cosmetics during the COVID-19 Pandemic in Lithuania.

The documentation of ethnopharmaceutical knowledge has always been important for the preservation of countries' cultural, social, and economic identity. The COVID-19 pandemic with the collapse of healthcare, which has left the individual health to self-care, has also forced us to look back at ethnopharmacology from a practical point of view. This is the first study in Lithuania, dedicated entirely to ethnopharmaceuticals used for skin diseases and cosmetics, and the first study to analyse ethnopharmacology as a Lithuanian phenomenon during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. The main purpose of this study was to collect and evaluate ethnopharmaceutical knowledge regarding skin diseases and cosmetics in Siauliai District, Lithuania during the COVID-19 pandemic from July 2020 to October 2021. This study surveyed 50 respondents; the survey was conducted using the deep interview method. The respondents mentioned 67 species of medicinal plants from 37 different families used for skin diseases (64.18%), cosmetics (13.44%) and cosmeceuticals (22.38%). Of the 67 plant species, 43 (64%) were not included in the European Medicines Agency monographs and only 14 species (21%) of all included species were used with European Medicines Agency approved medical indications for skin diseases. In terms of public health, the safety of "self-treatment" and recovery rituals for skin diseases are no less important than ethnopharmacological knowledge and its application, this being especially relevant during the COVID-19 pandemic.

The use of Dalmatian pyrethrum daisy and an excipient in the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis.

The active ingredients of the Pyretrin-D trichological cosmetic series, namely benzyl benzoate, Dalmatian pyrethrum daisy, Cistus incanus, tea tree oil and geranium oil, almond acid and arginine were tested in respect to the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis. The paper describes the application of Dalmatian pyrethrum daisy and the excipient. Methods and devices used to confirm the effectiveness of the tested formulations included the TrichoScope Polarizer Dino-Lite (MEDL4HM) and the scanning electron microscope (SEM).

Bioactive-Based Cosmeceuticals: An Update on Emerging Trends.

Cosmetic-containing herbals are a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. There are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals". "Nutricosmetics" are related dietary supplements or food or beverage products with additives that are marketed as having medical benefits that affect appearance. Cosmetic-containing herbals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. Cosmetic-containing herbals improve appearance by delivering essential nutrients to the skin. Several herbal products, such as cosmetic-containing herbals, are available. The present review highlights the use of natural products in cosmetic-containing herbals, as natural products have many curative effects as well as healing effects on skin and hair growth with minimal to no side effects. A brief description is given on such plants, their used parts, active ingredients, and the therapeutic properties associated with them. Mainly, the utilization of phytoconstituents as cosmetic-containing herbals in the care of skin and hair, such as dryness of skin, acne, eczema, inflammation of the skin, aging, hair growth, and dandruff, along with natural ingredients, such as for hair colorant, are explained in detail in the present review.

A Review on the Main Phytoconstituents, Traditional Uses, Inventions, and Patent Literature of Gum Arabic Emphasizing Acacia seyal.

Acacia seyal is an important source of gum Arabic. The availability, traditional, medicinal, pharmaceutical, nutritional, and cosmetic applications of gum acacia have pronounced its high economic value and attracted global attention. In addition to summarizing the inventions/patents applications related to gum A. seyal, the present review highlights recent updates regarding its phytoconstituents. Traditional, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and medicinal uses with the possible mechanism of actions have been also reviewed. The patent search revealed the identification of 30 patents/patent applications of A. seyal. The first patent related to A. seyal was published in 1892, which was related to its use in the prophylaxis/treatment of kidney and bladder affections. The use of A. seyal to treat cancer and osteoporosis has also been patented. Some inventions provided compositions and formulations containing A. seyal or its ingredients for pharmaceutical and medical applications. The inventions related to agricultural applications, food industry, cosmetics, quality control of gum Arabic, and isolation of some chemical constituents (L-rhamnose and arabinose) from A. seyal have also been summarized. The identification of only 30 patents/patent applications from 1892 to 15 November 2021 indicates a steadily growing interest and encourages developing more inventions related to A. seyal. The authors recommend exploring these opportunities for the benefit of society.

Method R: Efficacy of a cosmetic routine comprising six topical lipid-encapsulated products.

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVE: Efficacy of cosmetic routines is reportedly available in several dermatological conditions, such as acne or rosacea. However, clinical evidence about objective advantages of skincare routine remains limited despite advertising often claims benefits. METHOD: We aimed to assess the subject satisfaction level and the benefit from daily use of an advanced skincare routine named Method R. We used four different approaches to try and demonstrate the efficacy of the method: Transdermal delivery test, ex-vivo efficacy test, Visioscan® VC 20, and patient survey. MetR consists of a six-step routine that shows an increased epidermal penetration and activity due to liposomation. RESULTS: Transdermal delivery test and ex-vivo efficacy test show increased efficacy for liposomated actives. The skincare routine is well tolerated, and is associated with a marked efficacy in global quality of skin, dyschromia/pigmentation, brightness, and hydration according to patient perception. The subject satisfaction level is high and the routine is safe. The continuous use of the routine for one month or more results in objective changes when measured with Visioscan® VC 20 plus.

Shikimic acid in the light of current knowledge.

Shikimic acid (SA) has been mainly used in the pharmaceutical industry for production of drugs, however, recently it has also appeared in the world of cosmetics. So far, there have not been many publications on cosmetics containing SA or research studies on the compound, especially those that would involve testing cosmetic products on subjects. The main source of SA is star anise. The recommended concentration of SA in cosmetic preparations ranges between 1 and 5%. The pH of a 5% solution of SA in water is 3. SA at a concentration of 5% has a similar exfoliative effect to that of 50% glycolic acid. It shows antiviral, exfoliating, deodorizing, anti-acne, anti-dandruff, whitening and moisturizing activity. It also regulates the amount of secreted sebum, moreover, it has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hair-growth stimulating, anti-aging effect and antifungal properties.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Imaging for Evaluation of Distribution of Nano-Formulated Hydrophobic Active Cosmetic Ingredients in Hydrophilic Films.

Film-forming systems are highly relevant to the topical administration of active ingredients (AI) to the body. Enhanced contact with the skin can increase the efficacy of delivery and penetration during prolonged exposure. However, after the evaporation of volatile solvents to form a thin film, the distribution of the ingredient should remain homogenous in order to ensure the effectiveness of the formula. This is especially critical for the use of hydrophobic molecules that have poor solubility in hydrophilic films. In order to address this concern, hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) of Punica granatum seed oil were prepared as a nanosuspension stabilised by poloxamers (NanoPHE). NanoPHE was then added to a formulation containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a film forming agent, Glycerol as a plasticiser and an antimicrobial agent, SepicideTM HB. Despite their reliability, reference methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography are increasingly challenged due to the need for consumables and solvents, which is contrary to current concerns about green industry in the cosmetics field. Moreover, such methods fail to provide spatially resolved chemical information. In order to investigate the distribution of ingredients in the dried film, Confocal Raman imaging (CRI) coupled to Non-negatively Constrained Least Squares (NCLS) analysis was used. The reconstructed heat maps from a range of films containing systematically varying PHE concentrations highlighted the changes in spectral contribution from each of the ingredients. First, using NCLS scores it was demonstrated that the distributions of PVA, Glycerol, SepicideTM HB and PHE were homogenous, with respective relative standard deviations (RSD) of 3.33%, 2.48%, 2.72% and 6.27%. Second, the respective relationships between ingredient concentrations in the films and their Raman responses, and the spectral abundance were established. Finally, a model for absolute quantification for PHE was be constructed using the percentage of spectral abundance. The prepared %w/w concentrations regressed against predicted %w/w concentrations, displaying high correlation (R2 = 0.995), while the Root Mean Squared Error (0.0869% w/w PHE) confirmed the precision of the analysis. The mean percent relative error of 3.75% indicates the accuracy to which the concentration in dried films could be determined, further supporting the suitability of CRI for analysis of composite solid film matrix. Ultimately, it was demonstrated that nanoformulation of hydrophobic PHE provides homogenous distribution in PVA based film-forming systems independent of the concentration of NanoPHE used in the formula.

[Antalgic effects of socio-aesthetics in cancer patients]. / Effets antalgiques de la socio-esthétique chez les patients atteints de cancer.

INTRODUCTION: Socio-aesthetics is the delivery appropriate beauty care in a population weakened by a physical, psychological and/or social attack. It has found its place in indications in both medical (especially in oncology) and social settings. It offers many types of treatments including facials, foot beauty, make-up, wig tips, body massage, product advice, cosmetic manicure, varnishing… The main purpose of this study was to evaluate pain reduction as a result of socio-aesthetics. METHODS: One hundred and eighty patients were offered a socio-aesthetic session between 12/01/2018 and 11/30/2019. One hundred and fifty-seven (87,2%) accepted the care (56.7% of women/43.3% of men, regardless of the type of cancer) and all agreed to complete a questionnaire on the type of treatment received, the benefits felt and a Likert pain assessment scale before and after the treatment. RESULTS: No patient experienced an increase in pain after the socio-aesthetic care. In the general population, the mean pain evaluation was rated at 1.31/10 and 0.78/10 before and after the session respectively, p<10-5. By selecting patients experiencing pain before treatment (40 patients, 28.0% of the total population), the mean pain evaluation was 4.27/10 and 2.52/10 before and after the treatment respectively, p<10-5. Pain was significantly reduced by massage. No patient found the socio-aesthetic treatment unnecessary. CONCLUSION: Socio-aesthetics is definitely a supportive care in oncology as it is significantly analgesic. It is easily accepted by men and regardless of the type of cancer. Researchers should conduct more studies on its impact on the quality of life.