Anti-dandruff effects of butterfly pea flowers (Clitoria ternatea)-based shampoo: A pretest-posttest control study.

Butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea) may serve as an alternative anti-dandruff treatment; however, its effects on Malassezia spp. remain unexplored. The aim of this study was to explore the effects of C. ternatea as an herbal-based anti-dandruff treatment on Malassezia spp. DNA expression, plakoglobin levels, IL-8 levels, sebum levels, dandruff severity scores, adverse effects, and patient satisfaction. An experimental study with a pretest-posttest control design was conducted at the Outpatient Clinic of Dermatology and Venereology, Arifin Achmad Hospital, Pekanbaru, Indonesia, from November 2023 to January 2024. The flower of C. ternatea was used to formulate the shampoo. The study involved 70 female patients aged 18-25 with dandruff, who were divided into two groups: (a) experimental group using 20% C. ternatea shampoo and (b) control group using 2% ketoconazole shampoo. The present study found that 2% ketoconazole shampoo significantly reduced Malassezia spp. DNA expression compared to 20% C. ternatea shampooo (Clitoria ternatea: ΔCq=1.76±3.18; ketoconazole: ΔCq=3.77±2.90; p=0.008). No significant difference was observed in plakoglobin levels (C. ternatea: ΔCq=1.98±3.63; ketoconazole: ΔCq=2.50±2.36; p=0.427) or IL-8 levels (C. ternatea: ΔCq=3.46±4.00; ketoconazole: ΔCq=4.16 ± 3.62; p=0.459). C. ternatea significantly reduced sebum levels more than ketoconazole (C. ternatea: 1.16±0.98%; ketoconazole: 0.22±0.38%; p<0.001). Dandruff scores and patient satisfaction were similar for both shampoos (p=0.115 and p=0.336, respectively). Adverse effects were more common in the 2% ketoconazole shampoo group, affecting 21.2% of the patients. In conclusion, 2% ketoconazole shampoo is more effective in reducing Malassezia spp. DNA expression, while 20% C. ternatea shampoo offers better sebum control. Both shampoos are similarly effective in ameliorating dandruff severity and are well-tolerated, with fewer adverse effects reported for C. ternatea.

The Mystery of an Inflamed "Soul Patch".

A 20-year-old man had developed dermatitis on his scalp and facial hair between his lower lip and chin, his 'soul patch', for one month. He initially presented to urgent care, where the dermatitis was attributed to Herpes simplex infection, for which he was treated with both oral valacyclovir and topical acyclovir. When no change was observed, he consulted his pediatrician, who prescribed oral clindamycin and referred him to dermatology. Physical examination revealed a crusted plaque on an erythematous and edematous base at the lower cutaneous border of the lower lip (Figure 1). Examination additionally revealed an erythematous scaling plaque on the left temporal area with associated flaking, tenderness, and hair loss and left-sided cervical lymphadenopathy. A fungal culture grew Trichophyton mentagrophytes, but a bacterial culture did not grow. Further investigation revealed that he had a dog; however, no other animal contact to account for a fungal reservoir was present. He was successfully treated with oral terbinafine for 6 weeks, plus ketoconazole 2% shampoo and ketoconazole 2% cream with complete reso-lution (Figure 2).

Human urinary excretion kinetics of the antimycotic climbazole: Biomonitoring of two new metabolites after oral and dermal dosage.

Climbazole is an antimycotic compound used in cosmetic products as a preservative or as an active ingredient in anti-dandruff (AD) formulations. In this study we provide human toxicokinetic data on climbazole. Using our previously published analytical method, we investigated the urinary excretion of two climbazole metabolites, (OH)2-climbazole and cx-OH-climbazole, for 48 h after oral ingestion (n = 5, 49-77 µg/kg bw) and for 72 h after dermal application of either a climbazole-containing rinse-off AD shampoo or a leave-on hair tonic (n = 2×3). In total, 23.9 % (18.0-33.4 %) of the oral dose were excreted as the two abovementioned metabolites over 48 h. In one volunteer, who used an over-the-counter phytopharmaceutical, metabolite excretion was about three times lower and we found influences on diastereoselectivity of (OH)2-climbazole formation using a modified analytical method. After dermal application, urinary concentration maxima occurred considerably later than after oral intake. The two different dermal exposure scenarios also revealed a relevance of exposure duration and product formulation on the systemic availability of climbazole. Back-calculated oral-dose-equivalent intakes from the dermal exposures showed a maximum climbazole intake of 18.5 µg/kg bw/d after hair tonic use, or 6.6 µg/kg bw/d after AD shampoo application.

Anti-hair loss effect of a shampoo containing caffeine and adenosine.

BACKGROUND: Hair loss is a widespread health problem that affects numerous individuals and is associated with age, lack of sleep, stress, endocrine problems, and other problems. Caffeine exerts various pharmacological effects, particularly after ingestion. The caffeine-induced inhibition of phosphodiesterases can increase intracellular cAMP concentrations, ultimately resulting in stimulatory effects on cell metabolism and proliferation. Hence, caffeine has been confirmed to inhibit hair loss caused by premature termination of the hair growth phase. Adenosine also improves hair loss by stimulating hair growth and thickening hair shafts. However, further empirical evidence is required to comprehensively assess the efficacy of hair loss treatment and prevention using a formulation of caffeine and adenosine in specific proportions in shampoos. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate a shampoo with caffeine and adenosine as a daily scalp care product for hair loss in 77 subjects aged 18-60 years. METHODS: The overall and local hair densities were assessed using professional cameras and dermoscopes at different magnifications and distances. Five hairs that came off the participant's head were randomly selected to measure hair diameter. The self-assessment questionnaires were filled on third month of product use. RESULTS: The combination of caffeine and adenosine in the shampoo significantly enhanced hair density compared to that of the baseline. The results revealed a significant reduction in hair loss. The hair diameters of the subjects did not change significantly. Most of the participants (71.05%) were satisfied with their hair after using the product. CONCLUSIONS: Shampoos containing caffeine and adenosine have been demonstrated to exert therapeutic benefits for reducing hair loss.

Hair product use and urinary biomarker concentrations of non-persistent endocrine disrupting chemicals among reproductive-aged Black women.

BACKGROUND: Studies have shown an association between hair product use and adverse health outcomes. Scientists have hypothesized that exposure to endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) drives these associations, but few studies have directly evaluated associations between hair product use and biomarkers of EDCs. Even more limited are studies of Black women, who frequently use EDC-containing products (e.g., hair relaxers). OBJECTIVE: We estimated associations between hair product use and EDC biomarker concentrations. METHODS: We leveraged cross-sectional data from the Study of Environment, Lifestyle, and Fibroids, a cohort of females aged 23-34 years who self-identified as Black/African American from the Detroit-metropolitan area (USA; n = 425). On structured questionnaires, participants reported their past 24-h and past 12-month use of hair products, including relaxers/straighteners/perms, styling products, moisturizers, oils, and hair food. We quantified urinary concentrations of 19 phthalate/phthalate alternative metabolites, 7 phenols, and 4 parabens using high performance liquid chromatography isotope dilution tandem mass spectrometry. EDC biomarker concentrations were creatinine-adjusted and natural log-transformed. We used multivariable linear regression to estimate mean percent differences in EDC biomarker concentrations and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) associated with hair product use, adjusting for sociodemographic confounders. RESULTS: Hair product use was associated with greater concentrations of multiple EDC biomarkers. Notably, use of hair products in the previous 24 h (compared with non-use) was associated with 16.2% (95% CI = 0.7%, 35.9%), 35.0% (95% CI = 2.6%, 77.6%), and 32.3% (95% CI = 8.8%, 92.0%) higher concentrations of mono-isobutyl phthalate, methyl paraben, and ethyl paraben, respectively. Use of hair relaxers/straighteners/perms, styling products, moisturizers, oils, and hair food in the past 12 months was also associated with higher concentrations of multiple phthalate, phenol, and paraben biomarkers. CONCLUSION: Hair product use was associated with higher biomarker concentrations of multiple phthalates, phenols, and parabens. These findings suggest that hair products are potentially important exposure sources for hormonally-active chemicals among Black women.

Allergen content of popular chemical hair relaxers: A product analysis.

BACKGROUND: Chemical hair relaxers are widely utilized by black women, yet little research exists on the allergens present in these products. OBJECTIVE: This study aims to investigate allergen prevalence in the most popular chemical hair relaxers. METHODS: We analysed 41 products from five major retailers, identifying allergens through ingredient lists and comparing them to the 2020 American Contact Dermatitis Group Core allergen series. RESULTS: The most common contact allergens in chemical relaxers include propylene glycol, cetyl steryl alcohol, fragrance, D/L-a-tocopherol, tea tree oil and cocamidopropyl betaine. CONCLUSION: Understanding allergen exposure in products used by individuals with textured hair is needed for managing contact dermatitis in diverse populations. This analysis underscores the presence of potential allergens in hair relaxers, emphasizing the importance of dermatologists' awareness and patient scrutiny of ingredient lists.

Updates on disorders in curly hair.

Hair disorders, including central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), traction alopecia (TA), and acquired trichorrhexis nodosa (ATN), commonly occur in individuals with curly textured hair. Curly textured hair in individuals of African descent has unique properties and can present diagnostic and therapeutic challenges. CCCA has been linked to uterine leiomyoma and type 2 diabetes mellitus, as well as fibroproliferation. TA often presents with a fringe sign and can arise from high-tension hairstyles presumed to be protective. Trichoscopy is useful in establishing a diagnosis; perifollicular halos are more commonly seen than perifollicular erythema or scale in CCCA. In TA, miniaturized follicles, hair casts, and "flambeau sign" can be seen. Hairstyling practices likely contribute to TA and ATN; however, the data are mixed on the role of chemical relaxers and heat styling in CCCA. Unique considerations in the presentation of frontal fibrosing alopecia in curly textured hair have also been published recently. This review provides a comprehensive, up-to-date summary of these disorders with an emphasis on their unique properties, as well as considerations in hair care for curly textured hair.

Occurrence of alkyl glucosides in rinse-off cosmetics marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin.

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry, regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients.

A Novel Ex Vivo Blinking Method for Comparing the Corneal Residence Time of New Shampoo Formulations.

In the cosmetics sector, many products such as shampoos have a probability of accidental ocular exposure during their routine use. One very specific safety parameter is the residence time of the substance on the corneal surface, as prolonged exposure may cause injury. In this study, we developed a system that simulates corneal exposure to blinking and tear flow, for comparing the corneal clearance times of viscous detergent formulations. The Ex Vivo Eye Irritation Test (EVEIT), which uses corneal explants from discarded rabbit eyes from an abattoir, was used as the basis for the new system. To simulate blinking, we developed a silicone wiping membrane to regularly move across the corneal surface, under conditions of constant addition and aspiration of fluid, to mimic tear flow. Six shampoo formulations were tested and were shown to differ widely in their corneal clearance time. Three groups could be identified according to the observed clearance times (fast, intermediate and slow); the reference shampoo had the shortest clearance time of all tested formulations. With this new system, it is now possible to investigate an important physicochemical parameter, i.e. corneal clearance time, for the consideration of ocular safety during the development of novel cosmetic formulations.

Evaluation of novel cosmetic shampoo formulations against Malassezia species: Preliminary results of anti-dandruff shampoo formulations.

OBJECTIVES: Malassezia species are common, clinically relevant, and lipid-dependent yeasts of humans. They are also the leading causes of the dandruff problem of humans, and the azoles are used primarily in their topical and systemic treatment. Resistance to azoles is an emerging problem among Malassezia sp., which indicates the need of new drug assessments that will be effective against dandruff and limit the use of azoles and other agents in treatment. Among them, the efficacy of various combinations of piroctone olamine and climbazole against Malassezia sp. is highly important. Here, we assessed the efficacies of various piroctone olamine and climbazole formulations against Malassezia sp. in comparison with ketoconazole. METHODS: A total of nine formulations were included in the study, where each formulation was prepared from different concentrations of piroctone olamine and climbazole and both. All formulations contained the same ingredients as water, surfactants, hair conditioning agents, and preservatives. Malassezia furfur CBS1878, Malassezia globosa CBS7874, and Malassezia sympodialis CBS9570 were tested for antifungal susceptibility of each formulation by agar diffusion method. Sizes of the inhibition zones were compared with standard medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole, and the data were analyzed by Dunnett's multiple-comparison test. RESULTS: For all Malassezia sp. strains, climbazole 0.5% and piroctone olamine/climbazole (0.1%/0.1% and 0.1%/0.5%) combinations were found to have the same effect as the medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole. Piroctone olamine/climbazole 1.0%/0.1% formulation showed the same efficacy as 2% ketoconazole on M. furfur and M. sympodialis, while 0.1%/0.5% formulation to only M. furfur. For M. globosa, none of the formulations tested were as effective as ketoconazole. CONCLUSION: The species distribution of Malassezia sp. varies depending on the anatomical location on the host. According to the results of this study, climbazole and piroctone olamine combinations seem to be promising options against the dandruff problem with their high antifungal/anti dandruff efficacy.

Preliminary evaluation of a commercial shampoo and fine bubble bathing in the treatment of canine atopic dermatitis: A single-blinded, randomised, controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Fine bubble (FB) bathing has shown benefits on a mouse model of atopic dermatitis (AD). However, its efficacy in dogs with AD remains to be evaluated. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the clinical effectiveness of FB bathing in dogs with AD. ANIMALS: Seventeen dogs with AD whose clinical presentation showed a Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index, 4th iteration (CADESI-04) score of <40. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The dogs were randomly assigned to either the FB bathing group or the shampoo group. The treatments were administered once a week as per the instructions, in a trial totalling 4 weeks. Evaluations were conducted on Day (D)0 and D28 to assess the outcomes of the trial. The severity of AD was measured using the CADESI-04 and the pruritus Visual Analog Scale (PVAS). The skin barrier function parameters, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration were measured before and after the treatment. RESULTS: Both treatment groups demonstrated a decreasing trend in CADESI-04 scores, yet the FB group exhibited significant improvement in comparison to the shampoo group after 1 month of trial. There were no significant changes in PVAS scores in either group. No significant difference was found in skin barrier function parameters between the two treatments, although TEWL slightly decreased in the FB group and slightly increased in the shampoo group after treatment. CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE: These results suggested that FB treatment provides benefits for dogs with AD and offers an alternative topical treatment option with a lesser impact on skin barrier function compared to frequent shampooing.

A systematic review of association between use of hair products and benign and malignant gynecological conditions.

Hair products often contain chemicals like para-phenylenediamine (PPD) and endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs); giving rise to concerns about the possible adverse effects such as hormonal disturbances and carcinogenicity. The objective of this systematic review was to evaluate the association between the use of different hair products and benign and malignant gynecological conditions. Studies were identified from three databases including PubMed, Embase, and Scopus, and evaluated in accordance with PRISMA guidelines. The risk of bias was assessed using the Newcastle-Ottawa Scale. A total of 17 English-language studies met the inclusion criteria. Associations of hair relaxer or hair dye use with breast and ovarian cancer were observed in at least one well-designed study, but these findings were not consistent across studies. Further sub-analysis showed 1.08 times (95 % CI: 1.01-1.15) increased risk of breast cancer in females with permanent hair dye use. Chang et al. reported strong association between uterine cancer risk and hair relaxer use (HR 1.8, 95 % CI: 1.12-2.88), with no observed association with hair dye use. Studies conducted by Wise et al. and James-Todd et al. for benign gynecological conditions; including uterine leiomyoma (IRR 1.17, 95 % CI: 1.06-1.30), early onset of menarche (RR 1.4, 95 % CI: 1.1-1.9), and decreased fecundability (FR 0.89, 95 % CI: 0.81-0.98) revealed positive associations with hair relaxer use, but these findings were based on small sample sizes. In summary, the available evidence regarding personal use of hair products and gynecological conditions is insufficient to determine whether a positive association exists.

Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo.

OBJECTIVE: To characterize the scalp microbial composition, function, and connection to dandruff severity using a metagenomics approach and to understand the impact of a Piroctone Olamine containing anti-dandruff shampoo on the scalp microbiome. METHODS: Shotgun metagenomics was used to characterize the composition of the scalp microbiomes from 94 subjects with and without clinically defined dandruff. Furthermore, the microbiome of the scalps of 100 dandruff sufferers before and after 3 weeks of treatment with either control or anti-dandruff shampoo containing 0.5% Piroctone Olamine (PO) was characterized and compared to identify microorganisms associated with the dandruff condition and the associated pathways and processes that may contribute to PO's effect on scalp microbiome. RESULTS: A higher relative abundance of Malassezia restricta and Staphylococcus capitis and a lower abundance of Cutibacterium acnes were associated with the dandruff scalps relative to the no-dandruff scalps. A 3-week PO shampoo treatment reduced the relative abundance of Malassezia species and Staphylococcus capitis and increased the relative abundance of Cutibacterium acnes. This change to the scalp microbiome composition is consistent with a return to a healthy no-dandruff microbiome and improved clinical signs and symptoms as measured by adherent scalp flaking score (ASFS) compared with the control shampoo. Functional genomics analysis showed that the PO shampoo treatment reduced oxidative stress-associated genes and decreased the abundance of protease, urease, and lipase genes. These changes correlated positively to improvements in dandruff severity. PO treatment favourably shifted scalp microbiomes in dandruff subjects toward the no-dandruff state. CONCLUSION: Our results suggest that part of the aetiology of dandruff can be attributed to dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. PO treatment can restore a healthier microbiome, reducing oxidative stress and promoting better scalp health.

OBJECTIF: Caractériser la composition microbienne du cuir chevelu, sa fonction et son lien avec la sévérité des pellicules à l'aide d'une approche métagénomique. Comprendre l'impact d'un shampooing antipelliculaire à base de piroctone olamine sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. MÉTHODES: La métagénomique shotgun a été utilisée pour caractériser la composition des microbiomes du cuir chevelu de 94 sujets avec et sans pellicules définies cliniquement. Par ailleurs, le microbiome des cuirs chevelus de 100 personnes ayant des pellicules avant et après trois semaines de traitement par un shampooing témoin ou un shampooing antipelliculaire contenant 0,5 % de piroctone olamine (PO) a été caractérisé et comparé pour identifier les micro­organismes associés à l'état pelliculaire, et les voies et processus associés pouvant contribuer à l'effet de la PO sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. RÉSULTATS: Une abondance relative plus élevée de Malassezia restricta et de Staphylococcus capitis, et une abondance plus faible de Cutibacterium acnes étaient associées aux cuirs chevelus avec des pellicules par rapport aux cuirs chevelus sans pellicules. Un traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO de 3 semaines a réduit l'abondance relative des espèces Malassezia et Staphylococcus capitis, et a augmenté l'abondance relative de Cutibacterium acnes. Cette modification de la composition du microbiome du cuir chevelu est cohérente avec un retour à un microbiome sain sans pellicules, et une amélioration des signes et symptômes cliniques mesurés par le score de desquamation du cuir chevelu adhérent (Adherent Scalp Flaking Score, ASFS) par rapport au shampooing témoin. L'analyse génomique fonctionnelle a montré que le traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO réduisait les gènes associés au stress oxydatif et diminuait l'abondance des gènes de la protéase, de l'uréase et de la lipase. Ces modifications étaient corrélées positivement à des améliorations de la sévérité des pellicules. Le traitement avec la PO a favorisé l'évolution des microbiomes du cuir chevelu des sujets ayant des pellicules vers un état sans pellicules. CONCLUSION: Nos résultats suggèrent qu'une partie de l'étiologie des pellicules peut être attribuée à la dysbiose du microbiome du cuir chevelu. Le traitement avec la PO peut rétablir un microbiome plus sain, en réduisant le stress oxydatif et en favorisant une meilleure santé du cuir chevelu.

A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair.

OBJECTIVES: Through the cooperation with an industrial partner, we gained a set of data for the tensile properties (wet) of human hair. The hair samples originated from a cross-over study with two groups of individuals, using for a topical application sequentially two products (A and B). Each phase of the study lasted 6 months. The phases of the study by chance covered first largely the winter and then the summer period. Initially, tensile variables were chosen, which not only reflect the mechanical properties of hair (modulus, break strain, and break stress) but which are also considered to have a good connection to practice-relevant hair properties. The initial analysis of the data showed that changes were observed for the variables due to the treatment phases. However, these were either small or difficult to interpret. METHODS: Against this background and using two-factor analysis of variance, we investigated the hypothesis that the tensile properties of hair (wet) may show significant seasonal changes. For this, we chose those two independent variables, which reflect the properties of the intermediate filaments (modulus) and the matrix (break strain) in the composite structure of the hair cortex. RESULTS: The results support the 'seasonal' hypothesis and clearly show that the variables show significant changes from Winter to Summer (modulus: 10% increase; break strain: 3% decrease). The seasonal effect was thus a major reason, why the first stage of the analysis of the data was inconclusive. CONCLUSIONS: The tensile properties of the main morphological components of the cortex show distinct seasonal changes. Towards the summer, the hair becomes stiffer and more brittle. Furthermore, the results suggest that seasonal effects may need to be taken into account when conducting studies on lengths of hair grown during different seasons.

OBJECTIFS: Grâce à la coopération avec un partenaire industriel, nous avons obtenu un ensemble de données sur les propriétés de traction des cheveux (humides) humains. Les échantillons de cheveux provenaient d'une étude croisée avec deux groupes de personnes, utilisant pour une application topique deux produits (A et B) de manière séquentielle. Chaque phase de l'étude a duré 6 mois. Les phases de l'étude ont principalement couvert l'hiver, puis l'été. Initialement les variables de traction ont été choisies reflètent non seulement les propriétés mécaniques des cheveux (modulus, extension de rupture et stress de rupture), mais sont également considérées comme ayant un lien étroit avec les propriétés pertinentes des cheveux. L'analyse initiale des données a montré que des changements ont été observés pour les variables en raison des phases de traitement. Cependant, ils étaient faibles ou difficiles à interpréter. MÉTHODES: Dans ce contexte et à l'aide d'une analyse de variance à deux facteurs, nous avons étudié l'hypothèse selon laquelle les propriétés de traction des cheveux (humides) pourraient montrer des changements saisonniers significatifs. Pour cela, nous avons choisi ces deux variables indépendantes, qui reflètent les propriétés des filaments intermédiaires (modulus) et de la matrice (extension de rupture) dans la structure composite du cortex capillaire. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats appuient l'hypothèse « saisonnière ¼ et indiquent clairement que les variables montrent des évolutions significatives de l'hiver à l'été (modulus : augmentation de 10 % ; extension de rupture : diminution de 3 %). L'effet saisonnier était donc une raison majeure pour laquelle la première étape de l'analyse des données n'a pas été concluante. CONCLUSIONS: Les propriétés de traction des principaux composants morphologiques du cortex montrent des changements saisonniers distincts. Vers l'été, les cheveux deviennent plus raides et plus cassants. En outre, les résultats indiquent que les effets saisonniers devrait être pris en compte lors de la réalisation d'études sur les longueurs des cheveux ayant poussé à différentes saisons.

Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.

Novel anti-dandruff shampoo incorporated with ketoconazole-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract.

BACKGROUND: Dandruff caused by Malassezia furfur is a prevailing fungal infection. Although ketoconazole (KTZ) is widely intended for anti-dandruff treatment, poor solubility, and epidermal permeability limits its use and the marketed KTZ shampoo adversely effects scalp and hair. OBJECTIVE: To prepare a novel shampoo loaded with KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract and evaluate its antifungal activity. METHODS: The KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles was prepared by green synthesis and was characterized by UV, FTIR, XRD, and the drug entrapment efficiency was investigated. The antifungal activity of the nanoparticles with respect to standard drug, KTZ was tested against Malassezia furfur. Further, a novel antidandruff shampoo was developed by incorporating the prepared nanoparticles into the shampoo base. RESULTS: The formation of KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles was confirmed by UV and FTIR analysis. XRD analysis confirmed the amorphous phase of KTZ in nanoparticles. The drug entrapment efficiency was found to be 91.84%. The prepared nanoparticles showed enhanced activity against Malassezia furfur compared to drug of choice, KTZ (1%). The evaluation of shampoo showed an ideal result. CONCLUSION: KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles loaded novel shampoo in comparison to marketed anti-dandruff shampoo could be an effective alternate for the treatment of dandruff.

Screening Allergenic Potencies of Skin-Contact Products Using the Human-Derived THP-1 Cell Activation Test.

With the prevalence of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) from the usage of skin-contact products, like wearable, skin care, and hair care products, screening their skin sensitizing potential is necessary, for the sake of alleviating the consequent public health impact. In the present study, a total of 77 skin-contact products classified by four categories, watch bands (WBs), skin care products (SCPs), hair care products (HCPs), and rubber gloves (RGs), were investigated, using an optimized in vitro assay of human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). Extracting the products using neutral artificial sweat simulated well the practical usage scenarios, and testing the extracts showed that 26 of them were allergy test positive, including nine WBs, six SCPs, two HCPs, and nine RGs. The allergenic response was mainly characterized by the induction of CD54 expression, and diverse paradigms of CD54 and CD86 levels were observed by analyzing dose-response curves, which could also be influenced by the compromised viability of the THP-1 cells. The data implicated the intricate regulation by different contributors to suspicious ingredients in the test samples. Altogether, a promising methodology for testing skin allergy potential was well established for commonly used commodities by neutral artificial sweat extraction coupled with h-CLAT screening. The findings would be of great help in tracing the potential allergens in practical products and improving their qualities.

Siloxane Emissions and Exposures during the Use of Hair Care Products in Buildings.

Cyclic volatile methyl siloxanes (cVMS) are ubiquitous in hair care products (HCPs). cVMS emissions from HCPs are of concern, given the potential adverse impact of siloxanes on the environment and human health. To characterize cVMS emissions and exposures during the use of HCPs, realistic hair care experiments were conducted in a residential building. Siloxane-based HCPs were tested using common hair styling techniques, including straightening, curling, waving, and oiling. VOC concentrations were measured via proton-transfer-reaction time-of-flight mass spectrometry. HCP use drove rapid changes in the chemical composition of the indoor atmosphere. cVMS dominated VOC emissions from HCP use, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) contributed the most to cVMS emissions. cVMS emission factors (EFs) during hair care routines ranged from 110-1500 mg/person and were influenced by HCP type, styling tools, operation temperatures, and hair length. The high temperature of styling tools and the high surface area of hair enhanced VOC emissions. Increasing the hair straightener temperature from room temperature to 210 °C increased cVMS EFs by 50-310%. Elevated indoor cVMS concentrations can result in substantial indoor-to-outdoor transport of cVMS via ventilation (0.4-6 tons D5/year in the U.S.); thus, hair care routines may augment the abundance of cVMS in the outdoor atmosphere.

Hair relaxer use and risk of uterine cancer in the Black Women's Health Study.

BACKGROUND: Chemical hair relaxers, use of which is highly prevalent among Black women in the US, have been inconsistently linked to risk of estrogen-dependent cancers, such as breast cancer, and other reproductive health conditions. Whether hair relaxer use increases risk of uterine cancer is unknown. METHODS: In the Black Women's Health Study, 44,798 women with an intact uterus who self-identified as Black were followed from 1997, when chemical hair relaxer use was queried, until 2019. Over follow-up, 347 incident uterine cancers were diagnosed. We used multivariable Cox proportional hazards regression models, adjusted for age and other potential confounders, to estimate hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) for associations of hair relaxer use with risk of uterine cancer. RESULTS: Compared to women who never used hair relaxers or used them infrequently (<4 years and ≤1-2 times/year), the HR for uterine cancer associated with heavy use (≥15 years and at least 5 times/year) was 1.18 (95% CI: 0.81, 1.71). However, among postmenopausal women, compared to never/light use, the HR for moderate use was 1.60 (95% CI: 1.01, 2.53), the HR for heavy use was 1.64 (1.01, 2.64), and the HR for ≥20 years of use regardless of frequency was 1.71 (1.08, 2.72). Results among premenopausal women were null. CONCLUSIONS: In this large cohort of Black women, long-term use of chemical hair relaxers was associated with increased risk of uterine cancer among postmenopausal women, but not among premenopausal women. These findings suggest that hair relaxer use may be a potentially modifiable risk factor for uterine cancer.