Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges.

BACKGROUND: Guided by ethical considerations and regulatory requirements such as the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive N° 1223/2009, the cosmetic industry has developed and evaluated alternative test strategies such as in vitro assays, in silico approaches for toxicological endpoints and efficacy of cosmetic products and cosmetics ingredients. In consequence, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) has proposed a list of validated cell-based in vitro models for predicting the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients. These models have been demonstrated as valuable and effective tools to overcome the limitations of animal in vivo studies. For example, 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption. OBJECTIVE: This review presents, in relation to the regulatory requirements, the main alternative in vitro models used in the safety tests of cosmetic products, focusing on skin sensitization, skin corrosion, skin irritation and skin absorption, with advantages and limitations of each model. Recent innovative 3D cell technologies such as Organ-on-a-Chip (OoC) models that can bring significant improvements for toxicology and efficacy testing are also presented. CONCLUSION: The development of OoC technology is promising for assessing the toxicity of substances contained in cosmetics, particularly for repeated dose toxicity, for which no alternative in vitro methods are currently available. Nevertheless, aside from the challenges, the technology needs to be validated and accepted by regulatory organizations as an effective method. Collaboration between researchers, regulatory organizations and industry would be required to achieve this validation.

CONTEXTE: Guidée par des considérations éthiques et des exigences réglementaires telles que le 7e amendement à la directive européenne sur les cosmétiques N° 1223/2009, l'industrie cosmétique a développé et évalué des stratégies de test alternatives telles que des tests in vitro, des approches in silico pour les paramètres toxicologiques et l'efficacité des produits cosmétiques et ingrédients cosmétiques. En conséquence, le Centre Européen pour la Validation des Méthodes Alternatives (ECVAM) a proposé une liste de modèles cellulaires in vitro validés pour prédire la sécurité et la toxicité des ingrédients cosmétiques. Ces modèles ont été démontrés comme des outils précieux et efficaces pour surmonter les limites des études animales in vivo. Par exemple, des modèles équivalents de peau humaine 3D sont utilisés pour évaluer le potentiel d'irritation de la peau; et la peau humaine excisée est utilisée comme « gold standard ¼ pour l'évaluation de l'absorption cutanée. OBJECTIF: Cette revue présente, en lien avec les exigences réglementaires, les principaux modèles alternatifs in vitro utilisés dans les tests de sécurité des produits cosmétiques, en se concentrant sur la sensibilisation, la corrosion, l'irritation et l'absorption cutanée, avec les avantages et les limites de chaque modèle. Des technologies cellulaires 3D innovantes récentes telles que les modèles Organ-on-a-Chip (OoC) qui peuvent apporter des améliorations significatives pour la toxicologie et les tests d'efficacité sont également présentées. CONCLUSION: Le développement de la technologie OoC est prometteur pour évaluer la toxicité des substances contenues dans les cosmétiques, en particulier pour la toxicité à doses répétées, pour laquelle aucune méthode alternative in vitro n'est actuellement disponible. Néanmoins, outre les défis, la technologie doit être validée et acceptée par les organismes régulateurs comme une méthode efficace. Une collaboration entre les chercheurs, les organismes régulateurs et l'industrie serait nécessaire pour parvenir à cette validation.

Dietary fat without body weight gain increases in vivo MCF-7 human breast cancer cell growth and decreases natural killer cell cytotoxicity.

High-calorie (HC) diet contributes to the increased incidence of obesity, which is a risk factor for breast cancer in postmenopausal women, and in particular for estrogen receptor (ER) positive tumors. This study investigated whether an HC diet increases human ER-positive breast cancer progression and modulates natural killer (NK) cell functions. Four-week-old female BALB/c athymic nude mice were fed a HC diet (5320 kcal/kg) or standard calorie diet (SC, 2820 kcal/kg) for 6 mo. After 5 mo, the mice were randomly implanted with MCF-7 breast cancer cells (SCT and HCT) or received an isovolumic injection (SC and HC) in both inguinal fat pads. Tumor growth was greater in the HCT group than in the SC group without change in body weight. The HC diet decreased the tumor expression of genes involved in the citrate cycle and in adiponectin and lipid metabolism but increased that of genes controlling glycolysis and angiogenesis. The tumor expression level of Ki67 was increased while that of the cleaved caspase 3 and the ER-ß and progesterone receptors was reduced. Tumor development in response to the HC diet was associated with smaller numbers and lower cytotoxicity of splenic NK cells. These results indicate that an HC diet without body weight gain increases ER-positive breast cancer cell proliferation and reduces tumor apoptosis. The underlying mechanisms might involve a downexpression of tumor hormonal receptor and reduced NK cell functions, and might also result in the regulation of genes involved in several cellular functions.

Leptin modulates dose-dependently the metabolic and cytolytic activities of NK-92 cells.

Leptin, a hormone-cytokine produced primarily in the adipose tissue, has pleiotropic effects on many biological systems and in several cell types, including immune cells. Hyperleptinemia is associated with immune dysfunction and carcinogenesis. Natural killer (NK) cells are critical mediators of anti-tumor immunity, and leptin receptor deficiency in mice leads to impaired NK function. It was thus decided to explore the in vitro effects of leptin on human NK cell function. NK-92 cells were cultured during 48 h with different leptin concentrations [absence, 10 (physiological), 100 (obesity), or 200 ng/ml (pharmacology)]. Their metabolic activity was assessed using the resazurin test. NK-92 cell cytotoxicity and intracellular IFN-γ production were analyzed by flow cytometry. NK-92 cell mRNA and protein expression levels of cytotoxic effectors were determined by RT-qPCR and Western blot. In our conditions, leptin exerted a dose-dependent stimulatory effect on NK-92 cell metabolic activity. In addition, high leptin concentrations enhanced NK-92 cell cytotoxicity against K562-EGFP and MDA-MB-231-EGFP target cells and inversely reduced cytotoxicity against the MCF-7-EGFP target. At 100 ng/ml, leptin up-regulated both NK cell granzyme B and TRAIL protein expressions and concomitantly down-regulated perforin expression without affecting Fas-L expression. In response to PMA/ionomycin stimulation, the proportion of IFN-γ expressing NK-92 cells increased with 100 and 200 ng/ml of leptin. In conclusion, leptin concentration, at obesity level, variably increased NK-92 cell metabolic activity and modulated NK cell cytotoxicity according to the target cells. The underlying mechanisms are partly due to an up-regulation of TRAIL and IFN-γ expression and a down-regulation of perforin.

Marine algae as attractive source to skin care.

As the largest organ in the human body, the skin has multiple functions of which one of the most important is the protection against various harmful stressors. The keratinised stratified epidermis and an underlying thick layer of collagen-rich dermal connective tissues are important components of the skin. The environmental stressors such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pollution increase the levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), contributing to clinical manifestations such as wrinkle formation and skin aging. Skin aging is related to the reduction of collagen production and decrease of several enzymatic activities including matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen structure in the dermis; and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), which inhibit the action of MMPs. In addition to alterations of DNA, signal transduction pathways, immunology, UVR, and pollution activate cell surface receptors of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in the skin. This action leads to a breakdown of collagen in the extracellular matrix and a shutdown of new collagen synthesis. Therefore, an efficient antioxidants strategy is of major importance in dermis and epidermis layers. Marine resources have been recognised for their biologically active substances. Among these, marine algae are rich-sources of metabolites, which can be used to fight against oxidative stress and hence skin aging. These metabolites include, among others, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), polysaccharides, sulphated polysaccharides, glucosyl glycerols, pigments, and polyphenols. This paper reviews the role of oxidative processes in skin damage and the action of the compounds from algae on the physiological processes to maintain skin health.

Eicosanoids and adipokines in breast cancer: from molecular mechanisms to clinical considerations.

Chronic inflammation is one of the foremost risk factors for different types of malignancies, including breast cancer. Additional risk factors of this pathology in postmenopausal women are weight gain, obesity, estrogen secretion, and an imbalance in the production of adipokines, such as leptin and adiponectin. Various signaling products of transcription factor, nuclear factor-kappaB, in particular inflammatory eicosanoids, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and cytokines, are thought to be involved in chronic inflammation-induced cancer. Together, these key components have an influence on inflammatory reactions in malignant tissue damage when their levels are deregulated endogenously. Prostaglandins (PGs) are well recognized in inflammation and cancer, and they are solely biosynthesized through cyclooxygenases (COXs) from arachidonic acid. Concurrently, ROS give rise to bioactive isoprostanes from arachidonic acid precursors that are also involved in acute and chronic inflammation, but their specific characteristics in breast cancer are less demonstrated. Higher aromatase activity, a cytochrome P-450 enzyme, is intimately connected to tumor growth in the breast through estrogen synthesis, and is interrelated to COXs that catalyze the formation of both inflammatory and anti-inflammatory PGs such as PGE(2), PGF(2α), PGD(2), and PGJ(2) synchronously under the influence of specific mediators and downstream enzymes. Some of the latter compounds upsurge the intracellular cyclic adenosine monophosphate concentration and appear to be associated with estrogen synthesis. This review discusses the role of COX- and ROS-catalyzed eicosanoids and adipokines in breast cancer, and therefore ranges from their molecular mechanisms to clinical aspects to understand the impact of inflammation.

Effects of enriched environment on COX-2, leptin and eicosanoids in a mouse model of breast cancer.

Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and adipokines have been implicated in breast cancer. This study investigated a possible link between COX-2 and adipokines in the development of mammary tumors. A model of environmental enrichment (EE), known to reduce tumor growth was used for a syngeneic murine model of mammary carcinoma. 3-week-old, female C57BL/6 mice were housed in standard environment (SE) or EE cages for 9 weeks and transplanted orthotopically with syngeneic EO771 adenocarcinoma cells into the right inguinal mammary fat pad. EE housing influenced mammary gland development with a decrease in COX-2 expressing cells and enhanced side-branching and advanced development of alveolar structures of the mammary gland. Tumor volume and weight were decreased in EE housed mice and were associated with a reduction in COX-2 and Ki67 levels, and an increase in caspase-3 levels. In tumors of SE mice, high COX-2 expression correlated with enhanced leptin detection. Non-tumor-bearing EE mice showed a significant increase in adiponectin levels but no change in those of leptin, F(2)-isoprostanes, PGF(2α), IL-6, TNF-α, PAI-1, and MCP-1 levels. Both tumor-bearing groups (SE and EE housing) had increased resistin, IL-6, TNF-α, PAI-1 and MCP-1 levels irrespective of the different housing environment demonstrating higher inflammatory response due to the presence of the tumor. This study demonstrates that EE housing influenced normal mammary gland development and inhibited mammary tumor growth resulting in a marked decrease in intratumoral COX-2 activity and an increase in the plasma ratio of adiponectin/leptin levels.