Cardamonin suppresses melanogenesis by inhibition of Wnt/beta-catenin signaling.

Wnt/beta-catenin signaling plays important roles in many developmental processes, including neural crest-derived melanocyte development. Here we show that cardamonin, a calchone from Aplinia katsumadai Hayata, inhibited pigmentation in melanocytes through suppression of Wnt/beta-catenin signaling pathway. Cardamonin significantly suppressed the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase, which are melanocyte differentiation-associated markers, in human normal melanocytes, thereby decreasing intracellular melanin production. In addition, cardamonin promoted the degradation of intracellular beta-catenin that was accumulated by Wnt3a-conditioned medium (Wnt3a CM) or bromoindirubin-3'-oxime (BIO), a glycogen synthase kinase-3beta (GSK-3beta) inhibitor, in HEK293 reporter cells and human normal melanocytes. Our findings indicate that cardamonin may be a potential whitening agent for use in cosmetics and in the medical treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Identification and validation of amino acid-based mild exfoliating agents through a de novo screening method.

BACKGROUND: Due to internal or external factors, the desquamation (turnover) rate of the stratum corneum slows down, resulting in skin problems. Therefore, adjusting the exfoliation rate through cosmetics is an important issue. OBJECTIVE: This report aimed to develop exfoliating agents with lesser adverse effects and higher efficiency through an ex vivo screening method and in vivo turnover rate analysis of human skin. METHODS: Various molecules were evaluated by the ex vivo porcine skin exfoliation method and screened for their potential as effective agents. To confirm the effect and mechanism of each agent found, the exfoliation efficiency was evaluated. Each agent was also applied to the actual human skin to determine its efficacy and side effects. RESULTS: Despite the pH 6, carnitine and serine, which have similar or better efficiency compared to PHA, were selected. Based on the results, it was confirmed that calcium. And it is nonirritating to the human skin and increases the turnover rate (~130%). CONCLUSION: Amino acid-based exfoliating agents, such as carnitine and serine, were identified and verified to enhance the rate of exfoliation of the stratum corneum. It is expected that the improvement of dullness, mild acne, fine wrinkles, and pores through skin exfoliation in the field of cosmetics can be achieved safely through these agents.

Amino acids disrupt calcium-dependent adhesion of stratum corneum.

In the stratum corneum, the intercellular junction made up of cadherin proteins provides the structural integrity of the framework. Ca2+ ions are known to play a key role in maintaining this junction. In this study, we hypothesized that Ca2+ chelation in stratum corneum will weaken the bond of the tissue and consequently promote exfoliation. Amino acids, ubiquitously existing as metabolites and building blocks of the body, have the molecular property to chelate Ca2+ ions. In the current study, we verified the Ca2+ chelating property of amino acids and demonstrated that amino acids can interfere with the interaction of cadherins, separate stratum corneum into pieces, and thereby stimulate the exfoliation process of skin. These results validate the importance of Ca2+ ion in the skin exfoliation process. Importantly, our findings indicate that amino acids may be efficiently used for improving skin conditions.

Enhancement of exfoliating efficacy of L-carnitine with ion-pair method monitored by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy.

Carnitine (CAR), an amino acid derivative, has great potential as a facial exfoliating agent owing to its calcium chelating property under weakly acidic or neutral conditions. However, its application is limited by its poor transdermal penetration. To optimise its exfoliation efficacy with minimal concentration, we propose the ion-pair method. The ionic interaction between CAR and a zwitterionic substance was successfully monitored by measuring conductivity. The alterations of penetration and exfoliation efficacy for CAR addition to different types of counter ions were investigated in vitro and in vivo. We found that hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine (HSC), an amphiphilic counter ion, significantly increases the stratum corneum penetration and exfoliation efficacy of CAR. The changes of the CAR-HSC ionic interaction in the presence of calcium ions were also investigated by 1H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. The NMR spectra for amino groups of CAR first decreased with HSC and then gradually recovered and shifted as calcium ions were added. From the results, a noble exfoliating complex of CAR with high exfoliation efficacy could be proposed. Moreover, the results demonstrate that NMR spectroscopy is useful to obtain direct experimental evidence of the molecular dynamics simulations of the alteration of an exfoliating complex as it penetrates.

A study correlating between instrumental and consumers' subjective luster values in oriental hair tresses.

Hair luster has long been a key objective for consumers in the hair care market and many researchers have sought to quantitate the luster of hair fibers or tresses. Recently, a fast polarimetric video camera called SAMBA with a high polarization contrast was introduced that can effectively separate specular and diffuse light. Instrumental measurement of shine using SAMBA was conducted to quantitate the luster on phenyl trimethicone-treated hair tresses. We confirmed with atomic force microscopy that phenyl trimethicone's luster-enhancing effect was related to its reduction of hair surface. Panel tests by 15 untrained panelists were carried out to determine whether their assessment corresponded with instrumental results. The instrumental data showed an excellent correlation with subjective assessments from the 15 panelists. This study shows that SAMBA has utility as an instrumental technique for hair luster evaluation and is in good agreement with consumers' subjective evaluation of luster.

Comparative study of various growth factors and cytokines on type I collagen and hyaluronan production in human dermal fibroblasts.

BACKGROUND: Dermal fibroblast is a primary cell type responsible for synthesis and remodeling of extracellular matrix in human skin. Type I collagen and hyaluronan are main components that have roles in skin fibrosis, wound healing, tissue remodeling as well as skin aging. Several studies have reported cytokine-dependent changes in collagen expression or hyaluronan production; however, the cytokines' effect was controversial in human dermal fibroblasts. AIMS: To clarify the role of various growth factors, cytokines or chemokines on the production of interstitial type I collagen and hyaluronan in dermal fibroblasts. METHODS: We confirmed the presence of various corresponding receptors and assessed the effects of 33 human recombinants on the production of type I collagen and hyaluronan using the assay system in dermal fibroblasts. RESULTS: Platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF)-AA, PDGF-BB, epidermal growth factor (EGF), transforming growth factor (TGF)-ß1, MCP-1, IP-10, interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1ß, and IL-15 were effective on both type I collagen and hyaluronan production, as compared with no stimulated control. On the other hand, IL-10 and IFN- α caused a significant decrease in type I collagen production, and IL-8 and GM-CSF caused a decrease in hyaluronan production compared with no cytokine-treated control. Interestingly, some chemokines, such as MCP-1 (CCL2), RANTES (CCL5), eotaxin-2 (CCL24), IP-10 (CXCL10), or fractalkine (CX3CL1) significantly induced the type I collagen or hyaluronan production. CONCLUSIONS: Various growth factors and cytokines on the regulation of type I collagen and hyaluronan in human dermal skin probably function as key factors in skin remodeling and skin aging. Our profile may help to apply to cosmeceutical area maintaining as young skin through the increase in extracellular matrix.

Stimulation of the extracellular matrix production in dermal fibroblasts by velvet antler extract.

BACKGROUND: Fibroblasts produce many components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and so they contribute to the maintenance of connective tissue integrity. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of velvet antler extract (VAE) on the ECM production of dermal fibroblasts cultured in vitro. METHODS: Primary cultured human dermal fibroblasts were treated with VAE, and then the ECM production was determined by RT-PCR, ELISA and Western blot analysis. Furthermore, the change of gene expression according to VAE treatment was evaluated by cDNA microarray. RESULTS: VAE accelerated the growth of fibroblasts in a dose-dependent manner. VAE increased the production of several ECM components, including type 1 collagen, fibronectin and elastin. In line with these results, the phosphorylations of p42/44 ERK and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase were markedly increased by VAE, suggesting that the enhancement of ECM production may be linked to the activation of intracellular signaling cascades. VAE also significantly increased cell migration on an in vitro scratch wound test. In cDNA microarray, many genes related with connective tissue integrity were identified to be up-regulated by VAE. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that VAE has a potential to stimulate ECM production, and VAE may be applicable for maintaining the skin's texture.

Improving lip wrinkles: lipstick-related image analysis.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The appearance of lip wrinkles is problematic if it is adversely influenced by lipstick make-up causing incomplete color tone, spread phenomenon and pigment remnants. It is mandatory to develop an objective assessment method for lip wrinkle status by which the potential of wrinkle-improving products to lips can be screened. The present study is aimed at finding out the useful parameters from the image analysis of lip wrinkles that is affected by lipstick application. METHODS: The digital photograph image of lips before and after lipstick application was assessed from 20 female volunteers. Color tone was measured by Hue, Saturation and Intensity parameters, and time-related pigment spread was calculated by the area over vermilion border by image-analysis software (Image-Pro). The efficacy of wrinkle-improving lipstick containing asiaticoside was evaluated from 50 women by using subjective and objective methods including image analysis in a double-blind placebo-controlled fashion. RESULTS: The color tone and spread phenomenon after lipstick make-up were remarkably affected by lip wrinkles. The level of standard deviation by saturation value of image-analysis software was revealed as a good parameter for lip wrinkles. By using the lipstick containing asiaticoside for 8 weeks, the change of visual grading scores and replica analysis indicated the wrinkle-improving effect. As the depth and number of wrinkles were reduced, the lipstick make-up appearance by image analysis also improved significantly. CONCLUSION: The lip wrinkle pattern together with lipstick make-up can be evaluated by the image-analysis system in addition to traditional assessment methods. Thus, this evaluation system is expected to test the efficacy of wrinkle-reducing lipstick that was not described in previous dermatologic clinical studies.