Lesional skin of seborrheic dermatitis patients is characterized by skin barrier dysfunction and correlating alterations in the stratum corneum ceramide composition.

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by erythematous papulosquamous lesions in sebum rich areas such as the face and scalp. Its pathogenesis appears multifactorial with a disbalanced immune system, Malassezia driven microbial involvement and skin barrier perturbations. Microbial involvement has been well described in SD, but skin barrier involvement remains to be properly elucidated. To determine whether barrier impairment is a critical factor of inflammation in SD alongside microbial dysbiosis, a cross-sectional study was performed in 37 patients with mild-to-moderate facial SD. Their lesional and non-lesional skin was comprehensively and non-invasively assessed with standardized 2D-photography, optical coherence tomography (OCT), microbial profiling including Malassezia species identification, functional skin barrier assessments and ceramide profiling. The presence of inflammation was established through significant increases in erythema, epidermal thickness, vascularization and superficial roughness in lesional skin compared to non-lesional skin. Lesional skin showed a perturbed skin barrier with an underlying skewed ceramide subclass composition, impaired chain elongation and increased chain unsaturation. Changes in ceramide composition correlated with barrier impairment indicating interdependency of the functional barrier and ceramide composition. Lesional skin showed significantly increased Staphylococcus and decreased Cutibacterium abundances but similar Malassezia abundances and mycobial composition compared to non-lesional skin. Principal component analysis highlighted barrier properties as main discriminating features. To conclude, SD is associated with skin barrier dysfunction and changes in the ceramide composition. No significant differences in the abundance of Malassezia were observed. Restoring the cutaneous barrier might be a valid therapeutic approach in the treatment of facial SD.

The Sphingosine and Phytosphingosine Ceramide Ratio in Lipid Models Forming the Short Periodicity Phase: An Experimental and Molecular Simulation Study.

The lipids located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The primary components of the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs). They form two crystalline lamellar phases: the long periodicity phase (LPP) and the short periodicity phase (SPP). In inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, there are changes in the SC CER composition, such as an increased concentration of a sphingosine-based CER (CER NS) and a reduced concentration of a phytosphingosine-based CER (CER NP). In the present study, a lipid model was created exclusively forming the SPP, to examine whether alterations in the CER NS:CER NP molar ratio would affect the lipid organization. Experimental data were combined with molecular dynamics simulations of lipid models containing CER NS:CER NP at ratios of 1:2 (mimicking a healthy SC ratio) and 2:1 (observed in inflammatory skin diseases), mixed with CHOL and lignoceric acid as the FFA. The experimental findings show that the acyl chains of CER NS and CER NP and the FFA are in close proximity within the SPP unit cell, indicating that CER NS and CER NP adopt a linear conformation, similarly as observed for the LPP. Both the experiments and simulations indicate that the lamellar organization is the same for the two CER NS:CER NP ratios while the SPP NS:NP 1:2 model had a slightly denser hydrogen bonding network than the SPP NS:NP 2:1 model. The simulations show that this might be attributed to intermolecular hydrogen bonding with the additional hydroxide group on the headgroup of CER NP compared with CER NS.

Intradermal Vaccination with PLGA Nanoparticles via Dissolving Microneedles and Classical Injection Needles.

PURPOSE: A dissolving microneedle array (dMNA) is a vaccine delivery device with several advantages over conventional needles. By incorporating particulate adjuvants in the form of poly(D,L-lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles (NPs) into the dMNA, the immune response against the antigen might be enhanced. This study aimed to prepare PLGA-NP-loaded dMNA and to compare T-cell responses induced by either intradermally injected aqueous-PLGA-NP formulation or PLGA-NP-loaded dMNA in mice. METHODS: PLGA NPs were prepared with microfluidics, and their physicochemical characteristics with regard to encapsulation efficiencies of ovalbumin (OVA) and CpG oligonucleotide (CpG), zeta potentials, polydispersity indexes, and sizes were analysed. PLGA NPs incorporated dMNA was produced with three different dMNA formulations by using the centrifugation method, and the integrity of PLGA NPs in dMNAs was evaluated. The immunogenicity was evaluated in mice by comparing the T-cell responses induced by dMNA and aqueous formulations containing ovalbumin and CpG (OVA/CpG) with and without PLGA NP. RESULTS: Prepared PLGA NPs had a size of around 100 nm. The dMNA formulations affected the particle integrity, and the dMNA with poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) showed almost no aggregation of PLGA NPs. The PLGA:PVA weight ratio of 1:9 resulted in 100% of penetration efficiency and the fastest dissolution in ex-vivo human skin (< 30 min). The aqueous formulation with soluble OVA/CpG and the aqueous-PLGA-NP formulation with OVA/CpG induced the highest CD4 + T-cell responses in blood and spleen cells. CONCLUSIONS: PLGA NPs incorporated dMNA was successfully fabricated and the aqueous formulation containing PLGA NPs induce superior CD4+ and CD8+ T-cell responses.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models.

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

The effect of PPAR isoform (de)activation on the lipid composition in full-thickness skin models.

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). Although HSEs resemble NHS very closely, the barrier located in the stratum corneum (SC) is impaired. This is caused by an altered lipid composition in the SC of HSEs compared with NHS. One of the most pronounced changes in this lipid composition is a high level of monounsaturation. One key enzyme in this change is stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD1), which catalyses the monounsaturation of lipids. In order to normalize the lipid composition, we aimed to target a group of nuclear receptors that are important regulators in the lipid synthesis. This group of receptors are known as the peroxisome proliferating activating receptors (PPARs). By (de)activating each isoform (PPAR-α, PPAR-δ and PPAR-γ), the PPAR isoforms may have normalizing effects on the lipid composition. In addition, another PPAR-α agonist Wy14643 was included as this supplement demonstrated normalizing effects in the lipid composition in a more recent study. After PPAR (ant)agonists supplementation, the mRNA of downstream targets, lipid synthesis genes and lipid composition were investigated. The PPAR downstream targets were activated, indicating that the supplements reached the keratinocytes to trigger their effect. However, minimal impact was observed on the lipid composition after PPAR isoform (de) activation. Only the highest concentration Wy14643 resulted in strong, but negative effects on CER composition. Although the novel tested modifications did not result in an improvement, more insight is gained on the nuclear receptors PPARs and their effects on the lipid barrier in full-thickness skin models.

Treatment with the Topical Antimicrobial Peptide Omiganan in Mild-to-Moderate Facial Seborrheic Dermatitis versus Ketoconazole and Placebo: Results of a Randomized Controlled Proof-of-Concept Trial.

Facial seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is an inflammatory skin disease characterized by erythematous and scaly lesions on the skin with high sebaceous gland activity. The yeast Malassezia is regarded as a key pathogenic driver in this disease, but increased Staphylococcus abundances and barrier dysfunction are implicated as well. Here, we evaluated the antimicrobial peptide omiganan as a treatment for SD since it has shown both antifungal and antibacterial activity. A randomized, patient- and evaluator-blinded trial was performed comparing the four-week, twice daily topical administration of omiganan 1.75%, the comparator ketoconazole 2.00%, and placebo in patients with mild-to-moderate facial SD. Safety was monitored, and efficacy was determined by clinical scoring complemented with imaging. Microbial profiling was performed, and barrier integrity was assessed by trans-epidermal water loss and ceramide lipidomics. Omiganan was safe and well tolerated but did not result in a significant clinical improvement of SD, nor did it affect other biomarkers, compared to the placebo. Ketoconazole significantly reduced the disease severity compared to the placebo, with reduced Malassezia abundances, increased microbial diversity, restored skin barrier function, and decreased short-chain ceramide Cer[NSc34]. No significant decreases in Staphylococcus abundances were observed compared to the placebo. Omiganan is well tolerated but not efficacious in the treatment of facial SD. Previously established antimicrobial and antifungal properties of omiganan could not be demonstrated. Our multimodal characterization of the response to ketoconazole has reaffirmed previous insights into its mechanism of action.

Phytosphingosine ceramide mainly localizes in the central layer of the unique lamellar phase of skin lipid model systems.

Understanding the lipid arrangement within the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for advancing knowledge on the skin barrier function. The SC lipid matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which form unique crystalline lamellar phases, referred to as the long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phases. As the SC lipid composition is complex, lipid model systems that mimic the properties of native SC are used to study the SC lipid organization and molecular arrangement. In previous studies, such lipid models were used to determine the molecular organization in the trilayer structure of the LPP unit cell. The aim of this study was to examine the location of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP) in the unit cell of this lamellar phase and compare its position with CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS). We selected CER NP as it is the most prevalent CER subclass in the human SC, and its location in the LPP is not known. Our neutron diffraction results demonstrate that the acyl chain of CER NP was positioned in the central part of the trilayer structure, with a fraction also present in the outer layers, the same location as determined for the acyl chain of CER NS. In addition, our Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy results are in agreement with this molecular arrangement, suggesting a linear arrangement for the CER NS and CER NP. These findings provide more detailed insight into the lipid organization in the SC lipid matrix.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes.

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Comprehensive evaluation of microneedle-based intradermal adalimumab delivery vs. subcutaneous administration: results of a randomized controlled clinical trial.

AIMS: To evaluate feasibility of intradermal (i.d.) adalimumab administration using hollow microneedles, and to compare a single i.d. dose of adalimumab using a hollow microneedle with a single subcutaneous (s.c.) dose using a conventional needle. METHODS: In this single-centre double-blind, placebo-controlled, double-dummy clinical trial in 24 healthy adults we compared 40 mg adalimumab (0.4 mL) administered i.d. using a hollow microneedle with a s.c. dose using a conventional needle. Primary parameters were pain, acceptability and local tolerability; secondary parameters safety, pharmacokinetics and immunogenicity. We explored usability of optical coherence tomography, clinical photography, thermal imaging, and laser speckle contrast imaging to evaluate skin reaction after i.d. injections. In vitro protein analysis was performed to assess compatibility of adalimumab with the hollow microneedle device. RESULTS: While feasible and safe, injection pain of i.d. adalimumab was higher compared to s.c. adalimumab (35.4 vs. 7.9 on a 100-point visual analogue scale). Initial absorption rate and relative bioavailability were higher after i.d. adalimumab (time to maximum plasma concentration = 95 h [47-120]; Frel = 129% [6.46%]) compared to s.c. adalimumab (time to maximum plasma concentration = 120 h [96-221]). Anti-adalimumab antibodies were detected in 50% and 83% of the subjects after i.d. and s.c. adalimumab, respectively. We observed statistically significantly more erythema and skin perfusion after i.d. adalimumab, compared to s.c. adalimumab and placebo injections (P < .0001). Cytokine secretion after whole blood lipopolysaccharide challenge was comparable between administration routes. CONCLUSIONS: Intradermal injection of adalimumab using hollowing microneedles was perceived as more painful and less accepted than s.c. administration, but yields a higher relative bioavailability with similar safety and pharmacodynamic effects.

The Importance of Free Fatty Chain Length on the Lipid Organization in the Long Periodicity Phase.

The skin's barrier ability is an essential function for terrestrial survival, which is controlled by intercellular lipids within the stratum corneum (SC) layer. In this barrier, free fatty acids (FFAs) are an important lipid class. As seen in inflammatory skin diseases, when the lipid chain length is reduced, a reduction in the barrier's performance is observed. In this study, we have investigated the contributing effects of various FFA chain lengths on the lamellar phase, lateral packing. The repeat distance of the lamellar phase increased with FFA chain length (C20-C28), while shorter FFAs (C16 to C18) had the opposite behaviour. While the lateral packing was affected, the orthorhombic to hexagonal to fluid phase transitions were not affected by the FFA chain length. Porcine SC lipid composition mimicking model was then used to investigate the proportional effect of shorter FFA C16, up to 50% content of the total FFA mixture. At this level, no difference in the overall lamellar phases and lateral packing was observed, while a significant increase in the water permeability was detected. Our results demonstrate a FFA C16 threshold that must be exceeded before the structure and barrier function of the long periodicity phase (LPP) is affected. These results are important to understand the lipid behaviour in this unique LPP structure as well as for the understanding, treatment, and development of inflammatory skin conditions.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents.

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen-chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Solid and fluid segments within the same molecule of stratum corneum ceramide lipid.

The outer layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC) is an efficient transport barrier and it tolerates mechanical deformation. At physiological conditions, the majority of SC lipids are solid, while the presence of a small amount of fluid lipids is considered crucial for SC barrier and material properties. Here we use solid-state and diffusion nuclear magnetic resonance to characterize the composition and molecular dynamics of the fluid lipid fraction in SC model lipids, focusing on the role of the essential SC lipid CER EOS, which is a ceramide esterified omega-hydroxy sphingosine linoleate with very long chain. We show that both rigid and mobile structures are present within the same CER EOS molecule, and that the linoleate segments undergo fast isotropic reorientation while exhibiting extraordinarily slow self-diffusion. The characterization of this unusual self-assembly in SC lipids provides deepened insight into the molecular arrangement in the SC extracellular lipid matrix and the role of CER EOS linoleate in the healthy and diseased skin.

Skin barrier lipid enzyme activity in Netherton patients is associated with protease activity and ceramide abnormalities.

Individuals with Netherton syndrome (NTS) have increased serine protease activity, which strongly impacts the barrier function of the skin epidermis and leads to skin inflammation. Here, we investigated how serine protease activity in NTS correlates with changes in the stratum corneum (SC) ceramides, which are crucial components of the skin barrier. We examined two key enzymes involved in epidermal ceramide biosynthesis, ß-glucocerebrosidase (GBA) and acid-sphingomyelinase (ASM). We compared in situ expression levels and activities of GBA and ASM between NTS patients and controls and correlated the expression and activities with i) SC ceramide profiles, ii) in situ serine protease activity, and iii) clinical presentation of patients. Using activity-based probe labeling, we visualized and localized active epidermal GBA, and a newly developed in situ zymography method enabled us to visualize and localize active ASM. Reduction in active GBA in NTS patients coincided with increased ASM activity, particularly in areas with increased serine protease activity. NTS patients with scaly erythroderma exhibited more pronounced anomalies in GBA and ASM activities than patients with ichthyosis linearis circumflexa. They also displayed a stronger increase in SC ceramides processed via ASM. We conclude that changes in the localization of active GBA and ASM correlate with i) altered SC ceramide composition in NTS patients, ii) local serine protease activity, and iii) the clinical manifestation of NTS.

Barrier lipid composition and response to plasma lipids: A direct comparison of mouse dorsal back and ear skin.

The skin of the ear and the back are frequently selected sites in skin research using mouse models. However, distinct responses to treatment have been described between these two sites in several studies. Despite the crucial role of the stratum corneum (SC) in the skin barrier function of both dorsal back and ear skin, it remains unclear whether differences in lipid composition might underlie altered responses. Here, we compared the skin morphology and the barrier lipid composition of the ear with the back skin of wild-type mice. The ear contained more corneocyte layers in the SC and its barrier lipid composition was enriched with sphingosine ceramide subclasses, especially the short ones with a total chain length of 33-34 carbons. The free fatty acid (FFA) profile in the ear skin shifted towards shorter chains, significantly reducing the mean chain length to 23.3 vs 24.7 carbons in the back skin. In line, FFA species in the ear displayed a twofold increase in unsaturation index (P < .001). Gene expression in the ear skin revealed low expression of genes involved in lipid synthesis and uptake, indicating a reduced metabolic activity. Finally, the effects of hypercholesterolaemia on SC FFA composition was compared in ear and back skin of apolipoprotein E knockout (APOE-/- ) mice. Interestingly, the FFA profile in APOE-/- ear skin was minimally affected, while the FFA composition in the back skin was markedly changed in response to hypercholesterolaemia. In conclusion, ear and back skin have distinct barrier lipids and respond differently to elevated plasma cholesterol.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes.

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models.

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition.

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents.

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 µM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Preferential arrangement of lipids in the long-periodicity phase of a stratum corneum matrix model.

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, consists primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and FFAs. These lipids form a trilayer long-periodicity phase (LPP) that is unique to this barrier. Knowledge about the LPP is essential in understanding the barrier function. Previous studies of LPP lipid models have identified the position of the major lipid classes and suggested that a large fraction of FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain are present in the central region. However, the precise arrangement, such as lipid subclass mixing (isolated or mixed) and ceramide conformation (extended or hairpin), remains unknown. Here, we deuterated FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain to study CD2 and CH2 interactions with Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The ceramide and FFAs of various chain lengths were not in separate domains but had mixed together. The larger number of CD2-CD2 lipid chain interactions in the LPP than in a symmetrical bilayer structure implied that the ceramide had primarily adopted an extended conformation. Shorter FFAs were present in the central region of the LPP. This model explores the biophysical properties of the stratum corneum's LPP to improve the understanding of the barrier function of this layer.