HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results.

OBJECTIVE: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.

OBJECTIF: Aujourd'hui, il est nécessaire d'améliorer les protocoles de sécurité d'emploi et d'efficacité pour évaluer le stratum corneum (SC) humain et son interaction avec les formulations topiques et cosmétiques par des méthodologies peu ou pas invasives. L'objectif de notre travail de recherche était de rationaliser la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, à savoir chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (High Performance Liquid Chromatography), substances réactives à l'acide thiobarbiturique (Thiobarbituric Acid Reactive Substances), stratum corneum ex vivo (SCEV), en explorant les résultats d'un groupe de 18 sujets. MÉTHODES: L'étude incluait 9 femmes et 9 hommes âgés de 19 à 57 ans présentant des phototypes II à V. Des sites de l'avant-bras de chaque volontaire ont été délimités de manière aléatoire, et le SC a été recueilli par « tape stripping ¼. La chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance a été utilisée pour quantifier l'adduit MDA-TBA2 (malondialdéhyde - acide thiobarbiturique) à partir du SC recueilli par « tape stripping ¼, irradié et non irradié par une chambre de simulation à ultraviolets (UV). RÉSULTATS: En observant les résultats de notre recherche actuelle et l'approche statistique appliquée, l'utilisation du rapport entre le site traité et le site contrôle serait une stratégie adéquate pour mieux discriminer et évaluer les résultats. En outre, une sélection optimale des volontaires pour répondre spécifiquement à l'objectif du test ex vivo peut également être considérée comme bénéfique. CONCLUSIONS: Il semble que dans les études futures axées sur l'impact de la peroxydation lipidique induite par UV du SC, déterminé par la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, les sujets les plus appropriés sont les femmes âgées de moins de 35 ans présentant un phototype II.

Impact of Portuguese propolis on keratinocyte proliferation, migration and ROS protection: Significance for applications in skin products.

OBJECTIVE: Propolis has been used since antiquity, but recent reports of its biological properties hint that it could be employed as a topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredient. This work aims to probe the action of Portuguese propolis extracts on skin cells, providing mechanistic insights into its mode of action and preliminarily assessing its applicability as a skin repair ingredient. METHODS: The total phenolic content of propolis extracts was measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method. The cytotoxic effect of propolis extracts in human keratinocytes was determined and non-cytotoxic concentrations of the extracts were used to study the impact on collective cell migration, cell cycle and intracellular ROS levels. RESULTS: o significant impact was observed in collective cell migration, but one of the extracts mildly increased G2 phase while reducing the % of sub-G1 at a non-cytotoxic concentration. The two extracts with higher phenolic content strongly prevented intracellular cellular ROS accumulation upon exposure to TBHP. Collectively, these results indicate that the putative beneficial effects of propolis extracts in skin repair may not be attributable to induction of collective cell migration but could be partially ascribed to the protection from oxidative stress, which could act in synergy with its well-known antimicrobial activity. CONCLUSION: These data support the applicability of this material in topical and cosmetic formulations and further in vivo assays should be conducted to fully characterize its efficacy and safety.

OBJECTIF: la propolis est utilisée depuis l'Antiquité, mais des rapports récents sur ses propriétés biologiques suggèrent qu'elle pourrait être utilisée comme ingrédient pharmaceutique et cosmétique topique. Ce travail de recherche vise à explorer l'effet d'extraits de propolis portugaise sur les cellules cutanées, en fournissant des informations sur le plan mécanique relatives à son mode d'action et en évaluant de manière préliminaire son applicabilité en tant qu'ingrédient de réparation cutanée. MÉTHODES: la teneur en substance phénolique totale d'extraits de propolis a été mesurée par la méthode de Folin-Ciocalteu. L'effet cytotoxique d'extraits de propolis dans les kératinocytes humains a été déterminé, et des concentrations non cytotoxiques de ces extraits ont été utilisées pour étudier l'impact sur la migration cellulaire collective, le cycle cellulaire et les taux de ROS intracellulaires. RÉSULTATS: un impact significatif a été observé sur la migration cellulaire collective, mais l'un des extraits a légèrement augmenté la phase G2 tout en réduisant le % de sub-G1 à une concentration non cytotoxique. Les deux extraits présentant une teneur phénolique plus élevée ont fortement prévenu l'accumulation de ROS intracellulaires lors de l'exposition à l'hydroperoxyde de tert-butyle (TBHP). Collectivement, ces résultats indiquent que les effets bénéfiques présumés des extraits de propolis dans la réparation cutanée pourraient ne pas être attribuables à l'induction de la migration cellulaire collective, mais partiellement à la protection contre le stress oxydatif, qui pourrait agir en synergie avec son activité antimicrobienne bien connue. CONCLUSION: ces données étayent l'applicabilité de cette substance dans les formulations topiques et cosmétiques, et des tests in vivo supplémentaires doivent être réalisés afin de caractériser plus précisément son efficacité et sa sécurité d'emploi.

Analytical tools for urocanic acid determination in human samples: A review.

Urocanic acid is a chromophore found in the skin that has been identified as an important immunosuppressant and carcinogenesis mediator through its photoisomerization from trans to cis form induced by ultraviolet radiation. Research on analytical methods that explore urocanic acid isomerization is indispensable to fully understand the deleterious effects mediated by this biomarker. In this context, the current relevant analytical methods for determination of these isomers in human samples are summarized in this review. The methods presented here are applicable to human samples collected by noninvasive methods (or minimally invasive), encompassing an array of analytical techniques, including high-performance capillary electrophoresis, confocal Raman spectroscopy, gas chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Developed high-performance liquid chromatography methods have proven to be advantageous, allowing noninvasive collections for in vivo analysis and the confocal Raman, specially, for real-time analysis. Among all these methods, high-performance liquid chromatography is the most investigated one with mass spectrometry or ultraviolet detector, and the mass spectrometry detector being the most studied in the last years, demonstrating high sensitivity, very low detection limits, and accurate identification, especially for clinical investigations.

Skin impacts from exposure to ultraviolet, visible, infrared, and artificial lights - a review.

Social distancing is conducive to grow the impact of artificial light in the daily life of the worldwide population with reported consequences to the skin. Sunlight is also essential for human development, indeed, solar radiation is composed of different types of wavelengths, which generate different skin effects. It can be divided into ultraviolet (UV), infrared (IR), and visible. UV radiation (UVA and UVB) has cutaneous biological effects ranging from photoaging, immunosuppression to melanoma formation, through the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), inflammation and elevation of the energy state of organic molecules, changing the DNA structure. IR radiation reaches deeper layers of the skin and is also related to the generation of ROS, photoaging and erythema while visible light is responsible for generating ROS, pigmentation, cytokine formation, and matrix metallopeptidases (MMPs). Furthermore, artificial light could be harmful to the skin, as it can generate ROS, hyperpigmentation, and stimulate photoaging. Currently, we briefly summarized the cutaneous biological effects of sunlight, as well as artificial light on skin and remarked the opportunity of the evolution of current photoprotective formulas through new strategies with broad spectrum protection.

(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics.

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, ß-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics. KEY POINTS: • Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled. • Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments. • Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.

Topical Drug Delivery Systems Based on Bacterial Nanocellulose: Accelerated Stability Testing.

Bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) membranes have enormous potential as systems for topical drug delivery due to their intrinsic biocompatibility and three-dimensional nanoporous structure, which can house all kinds of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). Thus, the present study investigated the long-term storage stability of BNC membranes loaded with both hydrophilic and lipophilic APIs, namely, caffeine, lidocaine, ibuprofen and diclofenac. The storage stability was evaluated under accelerated testing conditions at different temperatures and relative humidity (RH), i.e., 75% RH/40 °C, 60% RH/25 °C and 0% RH/40 °C. All systems were quite stable under these storage conditions with no significant structural and morphological changes or variations in the drug release profile. The only difference observed was in the moisture-uptake, which increased with RH due to the hydrophilic nature of BNC. Furthermore, the caffeine-loaded BNC membrane was selected for in vivo cutaneous compatibility studies, where patches were applied in the volar forearm of twenty volunteers for 24 h. The cutaneous responses were assessed by non-invasive measurements and the tests revealed good compatibility for caffeine-loaded BNC membranes. These results highlight the good storage stability of the API-loaded BNC membranes and their cutaneous compatibility, which confirms the real potential of these dermal delivery systems.

Safety and Antioxidant Efficacy Profiles of Rutin-Loaded Ethosomes for Topical Application.

Topical application of dermocosmetics containing antioxidant and/or the intake of antioxidants through diet or supplementation are remarkable tools in an attempt to slow down some of the harmful effects of free radicals. Rutin is a strong antioxidant compound used in food and pharmaceutical industries. It was established that rutin presents a low skin permeation rate, a property that could be considered an inconvenience to the satisfactory action for a dermocosmetic formulation to perform its antioxidant activity onto the skin. Therefore, it is indispensable to improve its delivery, aiming at increasing its antioxidant capacity in deeper layers of the epidermis, being a possibility to associate the rutin to liposomal vesicles, such as ethosomes. Thus, in this work, the pre-clinical safety of rutin-loaded ethosomes was investigated employing an in vitro method, and the clinical safety and efficacy were also assessed. Rutin-loaded ethosomes were efficaciously obtained in a nanoscale dimension with a relevant bioactive compound loading (80.2%) and provided antioxidant in vitro activity in comparison with the blank sample. Pre-clinical and clinical safety assays assured the innocuous profile of the rutin-loaded ethosomes. The ethosomes containing the bioactive compound accomplished a more functional delivery system profile, since in the tape stripping assay, the deeper layers presented higher rutin amounts than the active delivered in its free state. However, the ex vivo antioxidant efficacy test detected no positive antioxidant activity from the rutin-loaded ethosomes, even though the in vitro assay demonstrated an affirmative antioxidant action.

Choline- versus imidazole-based ionic liquids as functional ingredients in topical delivery systems: cytotoxicity, solubility, and skin permeation studies.

BACKGROUND: Poor drug solubility represents a problem for the development of topical formulations. Since ionic liquids (ILs) can be placed in either lipophilic or hydrophilic solutions, they may be advantageous vehicles in such delivery systems. Nonetheless, it is vital to determine their usefulness when used at concentrations were cell viability is maintained, which was considered herein. METHOD: Five different ILs were prepared-three imidazole-based ILs: [C2mim][Br], [C4mim][Br], and [C6mim][Br]; and two choline-based ILs: [Cho][Phe] and [Cho][Glu]. Their cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes (HaCat cells), their influence in drug solubility and in percutaneous permeation, using pig skin membranes, was evaluated. RESULTS: Caffeine and salicylic acid were used as model actives. Choline-based ILs proved to be more suitable as functional ingredients, since they showed higher impact on drug solubility and a lower cytotoxicity. The major solubility enhancement was observed for caffeine and further solubility studies were carried out with this active in several concentrations of the choline-based ILs (0.1; 0.2; 0.5; 1.0; 3.0 and 5.0%, w/w) at 25 °C and 32 °C. Solubility was greatly influenced by concentrations up to 0.5%. The choline-based ILs showed no significant impact on the skin permeation, for both actives. The size of the imidazole-based ILs alkyl chain enhances the caffeine solubility and permeation, but also the ILs cytotoxicity. Stable O/W emulsions and gels were prepared containing the less toxic choline-based ILs and caffeine. CONCLUSIONS: Our results indicate that the choline-based ILs were effective functional ingredients, since, when used at nontoxic concentrations, they allowed a higher drug loading, while maintaining the stability of the formulations.

Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: cosmetic properties and safety evaluation.

CONTEXT: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate oil content and sun protection factor (SPF) variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties, including antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of UM obtained from green Coffea arabica seed oil. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The safety and potential cosmetic properties of UM extracted from green coffee oil (GCO) were evaluated by the brine shrimp viability and the MTT cytotoxicity assays. The SPF and antioxidant activity were evaluated using in vitro methods. RESULTS: Relevant cytotoxicity was found against keratinocytes for concentrations ≥25 µg/mL and in the brine shrimp assay (LC50 24 µg/mL). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities (IC50 1448 µg/mL) were low in UM but SPF was 10 times higher than in GCO. CONCLUSION: UM is a novel potential UV-B absorbent but its use as a cosmetic ingredient should be better considered due to the considerable cytotoxicity shown in the experimental conditions described.

Design of polymeric nanoparticles and its applications as drug delivery systems for acne treatment.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to evaluate a formulation made of poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) nanoparticles containing azelaic acid for potential acne treatment. METHODS: Azelaic acid-loaded PLGA nanoparticles were prepared by spontaneous emulsification processes using poloxamer 188 as stabilizer. Several manufacturing parameters such as stirring rate, concentration of stabilizer and different recovery methods were investigated. Nanoparticles were evaluated in terms of size, zeta potential, encapsulation efficiency, release kinetics and permeation kinetics in vitro. Furthermore, in vitro toxicological studies were performed in Saccharomyces cerevisiae model. RESULTS: The results showed that by adjusting some formulation conditions it was possible to obtain nanoparticles with high loading and a controlled drug release. Freeze-dried recovery altered the nanoparticles structure by enhancing porous structures and mannitol was required to control the mean particle size. The centrifugation recovery was found to be the best approach to nanoparticles recovery. Similar toxicity profiles were observed for both drug-free and azelaic acid-loaded nanoparticles, with concentration-dependent decreases in cell viability. CONCLUSION: These results indicate a potential formulation for controlled release delivery of azelaic acid to the follicular unit.

Challenging the safety and efficacy of topically applied chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin by HET-CAM, HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, and laser Doppler flowmetry.

The integumentary system, a vital organ, constitutes a multifaceted barrier against pathogens and environmental factors, crucial for maintaining homeostasis. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can accelerate skin aging and compromise its homeostatic functions and solar rays, particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pose a significant risk for skin cancer. Polyphenols are molecules that donate hydrogen or electrons, preventing the oxidation of substances, such as lipids, or the formation of inflammatory mediators by cyclooxygenase enzymes. This study explored the in vitro safety, by HET-CAM (hen's egg test on chorioallantoic membrane), and protective effects of polyphenols (chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin) against stratum corneum UV-induced lipid peroxidation using an innovative method, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum), and a stress test using methyl nicotinate and laser Doppler flowmetry to establish in vivo the samples' topical anti-inflammatory ability. An aqueous gel containing 0.1% w/w of each polyphenol was formulated using ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. Through the utilization of the HET-CAM assay for in vitro safety assessment, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin were classified as non-irritating active ingredients. This classification was based on their lack of adverse reactions within the vascularization of the chorioallantoic membrane. To assess the protective capabilities of four polyphenols against lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol was conducted. It was observed that only naringenin exhibited a significant reduction in epidermal lipoperoxidation, indicating superior anti-radical potential. Conversely, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, and kaempferol displayed a pro-oxidant profile under the specified test conditions. The laser Doppler flowmetry suggested the anti-inflammatory potential of naringenin, kaempferol, and chlorogenic acid, with naringenin showing superior efficacy involving all parameters quantified. Naringenin emerged as the only polyphenol capable of reducing the intensity of the inflammatory response induced by methyl nicotinate solution in the participants, compared to the blank gel and the untreated area. This comprehensive investigation underscores the diverse protective roles of polyphenols in skin health, emphasizing naringenin's notable anti-radical and anti-inflammatory properties.

Exploring the potential of Hermetia illucens larvae extracts: A promising approach for dermocosmetic formulations.

Globally, the yearly disposal of 1.3 billion tonnes of food raises environmental and public health concerns. Black soldier fly (BSF) larvae present a sustainable solution, converting organic waste into nutrient-rich biomass. The extracted oil from BSF larvae, rich in fatty acids (FA), offers an eco-friendly alternative for the cosmetic industry. In this study, larvae sourced from a Portuguese company were fed olive pomace, a by-product of olive oil production. The lipidic sample extracted revealed a composition high in oleic acid, valuable for cosmetics. Investigating the biological activity of lipid extractions from larvae fed with olive pomace is a novel approach. Notably, the n-hexane ultrasound-assisted extraction method demonstrated potent antioxidant properties, and some extracts displayed antimicrobial activity. Five non-cytotoxic extracts; three with no relevant activity (IC50 from 236 to >400 µg/mL). These findings highlight BSF larvae as an environmentally friendly source of fatty acids, offering promising alternatives for diverse applications.

Hydrocortisone-loaded poly(ε-caprolactone) nanoparticles for atopic dermatitis treatment.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that affects mostly young infants. The purpose of this research was to achieve a prolonged drug release and the reduction of side effects with hydrocortisone-loaded nanoparticles (NPs), for AD treatment. Poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) NPs were prepared by modified solvent displacement method and were characterized in terms of size, potential zeta, morphology, entrapment efficiency (EE), Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectrometry and in vitro permeation studies using Franz cells. Toxicology of this nanosystem was also assessed. The obtained NPs EE showed an increased size and a more homogenous size distribution after loading and were negatively charged. EF was around 62%. In vitro release studies demonstrated a controlled release of drug from the NPs over time. FT-IR analysis showed the system stability for one week. Permeation studies revealed significant differences in the permeation of encapsulated and free hydrocortisone. In vitro toxicity studies showed no effect of drug toxicity after encapsulation. The study seems to indicate that encapsulation of hydrocortisone in PCL NPs could enable a faster control of the disease and a decrease in the side effects associated to the long-term application of corticosteroids.

Impact of Human Papillomavirus Vaccination on Male Disease: A Systematic Review.

Human papillomavirus (HPV)-related diseases are highly prevalent in men worldwide, comprising external anogenital condyloma, anal intraepithelial neoplasia (AIN), penile intraepithelial neoplasia (PIN), and anogenital and oropharyngeal cancers. There is exceptionally low vaccine coverage in the male population. Only 4% of men were fully vaccinated, worldwide, as of 2019. The aim of this review is to assess the impact of HPV vaccination on male disease. Three databases (MEDLINE, Web of Science, Scopus) and Clinical Trials.gov were searched. We included thirteen studies, eight randomized controlled trials (RCTs), and five cohorts, comprising a total of 14,239 participants. Regarding anal disease, seven studies reported HPV vaccine efficacy ranging from 91.1% to 93.1% against AIN1, and ranging from 89.6% to 91.7% against AIN2|3 and anal cancer. Five studies showed an efficacy against genital condyloma of 89.9% in HPV-naïve males, varying between 66.7% and 67.2% in intention-to-treat populations. Studies reporting no efficacy have included older participants. These results support vaccination of young men previously infected, beyond HPV-naïve males. The evidence quality was moderate to low for most outcomes, namely genital diseases. RCTs are needed to assess the efficacy of HPV vaccination on male oropharyngeal cancer.

Mixed Edge Activators in Ibuprofen-Loaded Transfersomes: An Innovative Optimization Strategy Using Box-Behnken Factorial Design.

Transfersomes have been highlighted as an interesting nanotechnology-based approach to facilitate the skin delivery of bioactive compounds. Nevertheless, the properties of these nanosystems still need to be improved to enable knowledge transfer to the pharmaceutical industry and the development of more efficacious topical medicines. Quality-by-design strategies, such as Box-Behnken factorial design (BBD), are in line with the current need to use sustainable processes to develop new formulations. Thus, this work aimed at optimizing the physicochemical properties of transfersomes for cutaneous applications, by applying a BBD strategy to incorporate mixed edge activators with opposing hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB). Tween® 80 and Span® 80 were used as edge activators and ibuprofen sodium salt (IBU) was selected as the model drug. After the initial screening of the IBU solubility in aqueous media, a BBD protocol was implemented, and the optimized formulation displayed appropriate physicochemical properties for skin delivery. By comparing the optimized transfersomes to equivalent liposomes, the incorporation of mixed edge activators was found to be beneficial to upgrade the storage stability of the nanosystems. Furthermore, their cytocompatibility was shown by cell viability studies using 3D HaCaT cultures. Altogether, the data herein bode well for future advances in the use of mixed edge activators in transfersomes for the management of skin conditions.

Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum.

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) includes several compounds in the stratum corneum (SC), among them, urocanic acid (UCA). Ultraviolet (UV) exposure turns the trans-UCA of the SC into its cis isomer. We investigated the impact of a topical emollient emulsion treatment on the UCA isomers of the SC exposed to artificial UV stress. Aliquots of emollient emulsion were applied in healthy subjects for 2 h on delimited areas of the volar forearm, then, the SC was removed by tape stripping. Tapes were irradiated in a solar simulator chamber and a high performance liquid chromatograph was used to quantify UCA isomers from stripped SC extract. The amount of both UCA isomers were almost twice higher in the SC treated with the emollient emulsion. We also observed that the UV irradiation elevated the amount of the cis/trans UCA ratio on the SC (non-treated and treated), suggesting that the emollient sample was not able to avoid the UCA isomerization. The in vivo tests corroborated with the UCA data obtained ex vivo, since we found an increase in the superficial skin hydration with respective reduction of the TEWL, probably occurring by the occlusion performed by the emollient emulsion containing 15.0% w/w of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Nanodelivery Strategies for Skin Diseases with Barrier Impairment: Focusing on Ceramides and Glucocorticoids.

The human epidermis has a characteristic lipidic composition in the stratum corneum, where ceramides play a crucial role in the skin barrier homeostasis and in water-holding capacity. Several skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, exhibit a dysfunction in the lipid barrier with altered ceramide levels and increased loss of transepidermal water. Glucocorticoids are normally employed in the therapeutical management of these pathologies. However, they have shown a poor safety profile and reduced treatment efficiency. The main objective of this review is to, within the framework of the limitations of the currently available therapeutical approaches, establish the relevance of nanocarriers as a safe and efficient delivery strategy for glucocorticoids and ceramides in the topical treatment of skin disorders with barrier impairment.

The Impact of Kefir on Epidermal Water Homeostasis in Healthy Human Skin.

Kefir, a symbiotic consortium of diverse bacteria and yeasts, is one of the most popular probiotic foods on the market. Its consumption has been referred to as beneficial in human skin health, namely in the reinforcement of skin's barrier function. This benefit likely results from the productive activity of lactic acid bacteria during kefir fermentation. Lactic acid is naturally present in the skin, and actively contributes to epidermal water dynamics and "barrier." Few studies have been conducted regarding the impact of probiotic consumption in human epidermal water homeostasis. Therefore, this study was designed to explore the impact of the regular consumption of kefir on the skin water dynamics in a group of participants with healthy skin. Participants (n = 27) were healthy female volunteers from whom twelve consumed 100 mL of kefir every day for eight weeks as part of their diet. The remaining (untreated) participants served as the control group. Epidermal water balance was assessed by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum (SC) hydration on three different occasions-at baseline (T0), after four weeks (T4) and after eight weeks (T8) of interventive kefir consumption. Our study revealed a significant reduction in TEWL (p = 0.043) in the kefir group after eight weeks of regular consumption. In the same period, no differences were found for TEWL in the control group (p = 0.997). Regarding hydration, skin dryness was progressive in the control group, with a significant reduction in SC hydration (p = 0.002) at T8 in comparison to T0. In the kefir group, SC hydration was preserved between T0 and T8 (p = 0.997), which we believe to be related to epidermal "barrier" reinforcement. Our study seems to confirm that the regular consumption of kefir does improve cutaneous water balance even in healthy skin.

Kefir and the Gut-Skin Axis.

The human gastrointestinal (GI) tract is a dynamic system influenced by various environmental factors, including diet and exposure to ingested probiotics, and prone to various functional impairments. These impairments are mostly related to any combination of motility alterations, visceral hypersensitivity, and changes in the mucosa, immune function, and intestinal microbiota. Intestinal microbial imbalance and immunological dysfunction have been linked to several chronic inflammatory disease states, including atopic dermatitis (AD). Disruption of the intestinal microbial balance, known as gut dysbiosis, has been demonstrated to negatively impact skin function by increasing the intestinal permeability. Consequently, the gut-skin axis may be receptive to modulation via dietary modification, namely, via ingestion of probiotics, thus representing interesting potential as an AD therapy. Kefir is an ancient probiotic food that has been demonstrated to positively impact the general condition of the digestive system, including the intestinal microbiota. However, the literature is still scarce on the impact on the gut-skin relationship of a diet containing kefir. This study, continuing research in our group, aimed to evaluate the impact of kefir intake on GI symptoms in healthy and AD skin subjects. Results showed a significant improvement in GI status, namely, in functional constipation, abdominal pain intensity, and abdominal distension, thus supporting the hypothesis that kefir intake is positively associated with improvement in GI status. The existence of a relationship between the improvement in skin parameters and the improvement in GI status after kefir consumption was established, thus reinforcing the role of homemade kefir as a potential modulator of the gut-skin axis in both healthy and atopic individuals.

Characterization of lipid extracts from the Hermetia illucens larvae and their bioactivities for potential use as pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients.

There is an increasingly growing demand for the use of natural and sustainable bioactives in the field of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The biomass from black soldier fly larvae (Hermetia illucens) can be viewed as an innovative source of compounds with high aggregate value and marketing potential due to the sustainable organic matter bioconversion process used as substrate for its development. This insect can be a source of lipid compounds with high added value, mainly due to its high content in fatty acids (FA) with potential applicability in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. In this context, in this work different extraction methods were tested (decoction, microwaves, maceration and ultrasound), using water, acetone, n-hexane as extraction solvents, to evaluate yields of the BSF larvae lipid extracts, as well as their lipid profile, and a preliminary safety screening was conducted. Results show that despite using different extraction techniques and solvents, similar FA composition profiles were obtained. The lauric acid content (C12: 0) is elevated in all the extracts in relation to the other FA, ranging 37%-62%. The contents in palmitic (C16: 0) and oleic (C18: 1n-9) acids, were also high in all applied extraction methods. The omega-6 FA (ω-6 PUFAs), mainly linoleic acid (C18: 2n6c), were also identified in the lipid fraction of BSF larvae biomass, with a content variation between 4.5% and 17.7%, while the omega-3 group, namely α-Linolenic acid (C18: 3n3), presented values between 0.66% and 1.95%. None of the extracts presented toxicity in preliminary tests with the Artemia salina model. Through this study, it was possible to confirm that BSF larvae oil can be obtained by sustainable methods, containing a broad mixture of FA and being highly rich in lauric acid, with a promising skin care applicability.