Effect of zein additive on perfume evaporation.

OBJECTIVE: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long-lasting perception of perfume. METHODS: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. We have studied the trapping and release of eugenol from zein film by GC/MS. Also we labelled eugenol with deuterium to image specifically its distribution in the zein film using Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry technique (NanoSIMS 50). Finally, we applied the zein/D-eugenol formulation onto skin to image the eugenol location on and in skin by SIMS (Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry). RESULTS: We showed that eugenol evaporation from zein film can be divided in three periods. The first period (≤2 h) corresponds to the simultaneous solvent and eugenol evaporation occurring during film formation. The second period corresponds to the continuous and slow eugenol evaporation during a few hours (about 10 h) but not to its completion. The third period (at least up to 48 h) results from the trapping of eugenol in zein film. After 24 or 48 h, trapped eugenol can be released and evaporated under mechanical deformations of the film. Moreover we showed that zein addition does not favour the eugenol penetration into viable epidermis which may cause allergenic cutaneous reaction. CONCLUSION: The zein additive is safe to use, does not impact the olfactory perception, allows a better perception of the fragrance (long-lasting effect) in a more protective way and can be used in perfume.

Synthesis of a molecularly imprinted polymer to isolate glucosamine from plant extracts by an ionic-non-covalent dual approach.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to synthesize a novel glucosamine-imprinted sorbent based on ionic and non-covalent dual approach to purify glucosamine from chicory root extracts. METHODS: The synthesis of the molecularly imprinted polymer was optimized in terms of choice of monomers, porogen, cross-linker and initiator to have the best recognition as possible for targeted molecule. The sorbent obtained was characterized by nitrogen sorption (BET), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and solid-phase extraction (SPE) to plot adsorption isotherms. The selectivity of polymer between glucosamine and interfering salt as ammonium sulphate was calculated. Extraction procedure was optimized in terms of loading, washing and elution solvents, to have the best recovery of glucosamine. Compounds were analysed by HPLC-UV after chemical derivatization. RESULTS: The results showed that the optimal conditions of extracting glucosamine on this new type of sorbent were as follows: percolation of plant extract in EtOH/aqueous HCl pH 3, washing of cartridge with water and elution of compound of interest with aqueous acetic acid solution at 5%. The recoveries of glucosamine were around 53% and 70%, from aqueous standard solution and aqueous chicory roots extracts, respectively, on the molecularly imprinted polymer. And, only 11% and 7% of the ammonium sulphate were recovered from standard solution and chicory roots extract, respectively. CONCLUSION: The use of the MIP as solid-phase extraction sorbent was able to extract preferentially glucosamine from structural analogues and ammonium salt. Assays on chicory roots extracts were carried out, and the MIP showed good results allowing the transfer methodology at semi-industrial scale for cosmetic companies. The optimized protocol of extraction of glucosamine allowed using only eco-friendly solvents, as ethanol, water and acetic acid.