Nanosystems with potential application as carriers for skin depigmenting actives.

Hyperpigmentation is a skin disorder characterized by excessive production of melanin in the skin and includes dyschromias such as post-inflammatory hyperchromias, lentigens, melasma and chloasma. Topical products containing depigmenting agents offer a less aggressive treatment option for hyperpigmentation compared to methods like chemical peels and laser sessions. However, some of these agents can cause side effects such as redness and skin irritation. Encapsulating these actives in nanosystems shows promise in mitigating these effects and improving product safety and efficacy. In addition, nanocarriers have the ability to penetrate the skin, potentially allowing for targeted delivery of actives to the affected areas. The most commonly investigated nanosystems are nanoemulsions, vesicular nanosystems and nanoparticles, in which different materials can be used to generate different compositions in order to improve the properties of these nanocarriers. Nanocarriers have already been widely explored, but it is necessary to understand the evolution of these technologies when applied to the treatment of skin hyperchromias. Therefore, this literature review aims to present the state of the art over the last 15 years on the use of nanosystems as a potential strategy for encapsulating depigmenting actives for potential application in cosmetic products for skin hyperchromia. By providing a comprehensive overview of the latest research findings and technological advances, this article can contribute to improving the care and quality of life of people affected by this skin condition.

Quantification of Arbutin and its degradation products, hydroquinone and p-Benzoquinone, in hyperpigmentation topical formulation: Effect of extraction procedure and interference assessment.

The utilization of Hydroquinone (HQ) in over-the-counter skincare items is subject to restrictions. Consequently, Arbutin (AR) serves as a reliable alternative for addressing hyperpigmentation in non-prescription topical formulations. Nevertheless, AR undergoes decomposition into HQ and p-Benzoquinone (BZ) when exposed to temperature stress, ultraviolet light, or dilution in an acidic environment, all of which can induce skin toxicity. The intention of this paper is to investigate the effect of extraction procedure on the conversion of AR to HQ and or BZ and to evaluate kinetics of AR hydrolysis to HQ. Meanwhile this study aims to evaluate AR and BZ interference with the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) identification and assessment method for HQ Hydrolytic stress during extraction conditions underwent optimization through systematic screening tests. Subsequent assessment of the residual drug and its degradation products were achieved by HPLC method. The resulting data were meticulously fitted to various kinetic models. To analyze the potential interference of AR in HQ measurement using USP method, the standard concentrations of AR and HQ were analyzed through UV-VIS spectrophotometry. For enhanced certainty, a validated HPLC method analysis was also conducted. Notably, the acid hydrolysis of AR exhibited independence from its initial concentration. So, the hydrolytic degradation of AR exhibited a Zero-order kinetic profile. Furthermore, the proven interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometry method was identified within the context of the USP method. This study successfully utilized an adopted HPLC method for the concurrent quantification of AR, HQ, and BZ. The potential interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometric assay for HQ may lead to false results especially for regulatory purposes.

The effect of emulgel preparation on the stability of Kojic acid in the topical anti-hyperpigmentation products.

BACKGROUND: The emulgel, a novel drug delivery system, merges emulsion and gel, offering advantages like enhanced stability, precise control over drug release kinetics, and increased drug absorption compared to emulsions alone. Kojic acid (KA) demonstrates potent inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, a crucial player in the melanin synthesis pathway. AIMS: The main objective of this experimental study is to formulate KA within an emulgel framework and assess its stability under various environmental conditions. METHODS: One percent of KA emulgel and 1% simple gel, serving as the control product, were supplemented with varying concentrations of sodium metabisulfite (SMBS) for its antioxidant properties. The formulations were segregated into four groups and subjected to diverse maintenance and stress conditions over a three-month period. Monthly evaluations of physicochemical alterations were conducted, initially employing digital photography, followed by the extraction of KA and subsequent quantification of its concentration through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). RESULTS: The best formulations for retaining KA among the prepared ones were the 0.25% SMBS KA emulgel and the 0.1% SMBS KA simple gel, capable of retaining 86% and 76% of the initial KA content under stress conditions, respectively (p < 0.0001). CONCLUSIONS: Regarding to this study, ideal storage condition for KA emulgel and simple gel is in the refrigerator temperatures. Moreover, optimal SMBS concentrations for stability enhancement are 0.25% for emulgel and 0.1% for the simple gel. A significant statistical difference was observed between refrigerated emulgel and simple gel in the retention of KA in the presence of optimum concentration of antioxidants (p < 0.0001).

Phytochemical study of Boswellia dalzielii oleo-gum resin and evaluation of its biological properties.

Boswellia dalzielii is a resin-producing tree endemic to West and Central Africa, used by local populations for various medicinal purposes. In this study, B. dalzielii gum resin was analyzed by GC-MS and UHPLC-MS to identify and quantify volatile and non-volatile compounds. Its main volatile constituents were α-pinene (54.9%), followed by α-thujene (4.4%) and α-phellandren-8-ol (4.0%). Pentacyclic triterpenoids such as ß-boswellic acids and their derivatives were quantified by UHPLC-MS and their content was shown to reach around 22% of the gum resin. Since some of the volatile and non-volatile compounds identified in this work are known to possess biological effects, the bioactivities of B. dalzielii ethanolic extract, essential oil, as well as fractions of the oil and extract were evaluated. Some of these samples exhibited interesting anti-inflammatory properties, and their antioxidant, anti-ageing and skin-bleaching activities were also tested.

Neurog1-Derived Peptides RMNE1 and DualPep-Shine Penetrate the Skin and Inhibit Melanin Synthesis by Regulating MITF Transcription.

Anti-pigmentation peptides have been developed as alternative skin-lightening agents to replace conventional chemicals that have adverse effects on the skin. However, the maximum size of these peptides is often limited by their low skin and cell penetration. To address this issue, we used our intra-dermal delivery technology (IDDT) platform to identify peptides with hypo-pigmenting and high cell-penetrating activity. Using our cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) from the IDDT platform, we identified RMNE1 and its derivative RMNE3, "DualPep-Shine", which showed levels of α-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin inhibition comparable to the conventional tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid. In addition, DualPep-Shine was delivered into the nucleus and regulated the gene expression levels of melanogenic enzymes by inhibiting the promoter activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M). Using a 3D human skin model, we found that DualPep-Shine penetrated the lower region of the epidermis and reduced the melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, DualPep-Shine showed high safety with little immunogenicity, indicating its potential as a novel cosmeceutical ingredient and anti-pigmentation therapeutic agent.

Discovery and identification of potential anti-melanogenic active constituents of Bletilla striata by zebrafish model and molecular docking.

BACKGROUND: Bletilla striata is the main medicine of many skin whitening classic formulas in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and is widely used in cosmetic industry recently. However, its active ingredients are still unclear and its fibrous roots are not used effectively. The aim of the present study is to discover and identify its potential anti-melanogenic active constituents by zebrafish model and molecular docking. METHODS: The antioxidant activities were evaluated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, 2,2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay. The anti-melanogenic activity was assessed by tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and melanin inhibitory in zebrafish. The chemical profiles were performed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-Q-TOF-MS/MS). Meanwhile, the potential anti-melanogenic active constituents were temporary identified by molecular docking. RESULTS: The 95% ethanol extract of B. striata fibrous roots (EFB) possessed the strongest DPPH, ABTS, FRAP and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, with IC50 5.94 mg/L, 11.69 mg/L, 6.92 mmol FeSO4/g, and 58.92 mg/L, respectively. In addition, EFB and 95% ethanol extract of B. striata tuber (ETB) significantly reduced the melanin synthesis of zebrafish embryos in a dose-dependent manner. 39 chemical compositions, including 24 stilbenoids were tentatively identified from EFB and ETB. Molecular docking indicated that there were 83 (including 60 stilbenoids) and 85 (including 70 stilbenoids) compounds exhibited stronger binding affinities toward tyrosinase and adenylate cyclase. CONCLUSION: The present findings supported the rationale for the use of EFB and ETB as natural skin-whitening agents in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

An open-label, investigator-initiated, single-center, prospective, pilot clinical study to evaluate the efficacy of a skin whitening serum applied twice daily combined with a spot-preventing SPF50+ sunscreen in healthy female subjects with melasma hyperpigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Melasma is a common skin disorder characterized by alterations in normal skin pigmentation. The objective was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a skin whitening serum containing niacinamide, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycolic acid, and 4-n-butylresorcinol applied twice daily combined with a spot-preventing SPF50+ sunscreen for treatment of melasma. METHODS: Twelve healthy Caucasian women with melasma (Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV) were enrolled in this pilot clinical study. Efficacy evaluations were performed at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12 of treatment and included clinical and instrumental assessments. RESULTS: All endpoints for melasma hyperpigmentation showed a statistically significant improvement from baseline to the end of the study. There was only one dropout. No signs of irritation or discomfort were observed at baseline, w4, w8, or w12. An overall improvement in melasma was observed both clinically and on reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). CONCLUSION: This topical skin whitening serum had favorable outcomes for the treatment of melasma hyperpigmentation in adult women, as demonstrated on investigator and instrumental assessments. The results of this pilot study need to be confirmed in randomized, controlled studies with a larger sample size.

Analysis of Mercury in Skin Lightening Cream by Microwave Plasma Atomic Emission Spectroscopy (MP-AES).

This research aimed at developing an analysis method, which was optimized and validated to determine the content of mercury in skin lightening cream discovered in the market in Bandar Lampung, Indonesia, through the use of microwave plasma atomic emission spectroscopy (MP-AES). The optimization on the analysis method was conducted on pump rate, viewing position, and reductant concentration in order to obtain the highest mercury emission intensity, while the solution stability was optimized to know the stability of mercury in the solution. The result showed that the method developed had precision with a relative standard deviation of 2.67%, recovery value of 92.78%, and linearity with an r value of 0.993, respectively. The sensitivity of the instrument detection had a limit of analysis method detection and quantification of 0.59 and 1.98 µg/L, respectively. The results of the test of the lightening cream (8 of 16 samples) positively contained mercury in the range of 422.61-44,960.79 ng/g. Therefore the method of analysis developed may be used for routine analysis of chemicals in any cosmetics products.

Skin-Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Bioactive Compounds Isolated from Peanut Shell Using Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction.

Response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions for simultaneous optimization of dependent variables, including DPPH radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI), and collagenase activity inhibition (CAI) of peanut shell extracts. The effects of the main variables including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min, X1), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C, X2), and ethanol concentration (0.0%~99.5%, X3) were optimized. Based on experimental values from each condition, quadratic regression models were derived for the prediction of optimum conditions. The coefficient of determination (R2) of the independent variable was in the range of 0.89~0.96, which demonstrates that the regression model is suitable for the prediction. In predicting optimal UAE conditions based on the superimposing method, extraction time of 31.2 min, extraction temperature of 36.6 °C, and ethanol concentration of 93.2% were identified. Under these conditions, RSA of 74.9%, TAI of 50.6%, and CAI of 86.8% were predicted, showing good agreement with the experimental values. A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction showed that peanut shell extract decreased mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-3 genes in B16-F0 cell. Therefore, we identified the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of peanut shell extracts at protein as well as gene expression levels, and the results show that peanut shell is an effective cosmetic material for skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. Based on this study, peanut shell, which was considered a byproduct, can be used for the development of healthy foods, medicines, and cosmetics.

Borage Oil Treated with Immobilized Lipase Inhibits Melanogenesis.

In the present study, we demonstrated that borage (Borago officinalis L.) seed oil subjected to immobilized lipase pretreatment are enriched with linoleic acid (LNA, 18:2n-6), γ-linolenic acid (GLA, 18:3n-6), and oleic acid (OLA, 18:1n-9). We further showed that lipase-treated borage oil (LT-BOL) regulates the activity and degradation of tyrosinase, an important enzyme implicated in the synthesis of melanin in murine melanocytes, B16F10. LT-BOL and its free fatty acid components reduced the levels of melanin and tyrosinase in melanocytes with GLA exerting similar or stronger effects compared with LNA and OLA. The brightening efficacy of LT-BOL on melanin metabolism in humans was tested by an 8-week, double-blind, randomized clinical trial, which enrolled 21 Korean female adults (mean age 48.57 ± 3.28). Visual evaluation showed that cream containing 1% LT-BOL significantly decreased (p < 0.05) melasma on the treated skin area after 6 and 8 weeks. The analysis of the skin brightness using Chromameter CR-400 confirmed that the brightness of the treated area was significantly increased (p < 0.01) after 4, 6, and 8 weeks. Together, our results suggest that LT-BOL may be suitable as a natural skin whitening cosmeceutical product.

Oxidative Oligomerization of DBL Catechol, a potential Cytotoxic Compound for Melanocytes, Reveals the Occurrence of Novel Ionic Diels-Alder Type Additions.

The exposure of human skin to 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone (raspberry ketone, RK) is known to cause chemical/occupational leukoderma. RK is a carbonyl derivative of 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol), a skin whitening agent that was found to cause leukoderma in skin of many consumers. These two phenolic compounds are oxidized by tyrosinase and the resultant products seem to cause cytotoxicity to melanocytes by producing reactive oxygen species and depleting cellular thiols through o-quinone oxidation products. Therefore, it is important to understand the biochemical mechanism of the oxidative transformation of these compounds. Earlier studies indicate that RK is initially oxidized to RK quinone by tyrosinase and subsequently converted to a side chain desaturated catechol called 3,4-dihydroxybenzalacetone (DBL catechol). In the present study, we report the oxidation chemistry of DBL catechol. Using UV-visible spectroscopic studies and liquid chromatography mass spectrometry, we have examined the reaction of DBL catechol with tyrosinase and sodium periodate. Our results indicate that DBL quinone formed in the reaction is extremely reactive and undergoes facile dimerization and trimerization reactions to produce multiple isomeric products by novel ionic Diels-Alder type condensation reactions. The production of a wide variety of complex quinonoid products from such reactions would be potentially more toxic to cells by causing not only oxidative stress, but also melanotoxicity through exhibiting reactions with cellular macromolecules and thiols.

Advances in the Design of Genuine Human Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Targeting Melanogenesis and Related Pigmentations.

Human tyrosinase (hsTYR) is the key enzyme ensuring the conversion of l-tyrosine to dopaquinone, thereby initiating melanin synthesis, i.e., melanogenesis. Although the protein has long been familiar, knowledge about its three-dimensional structure and efficient overexpression protocols emerged only recently. Consequently, for decades medicinal chemistry studies aiming at developing skin depigmenting agents relied almost exclusively on biological assays performed using mushroom tyrosinase (abTYR), producing a plethoric literature, often of little useful purpose. Indeed, several recent reports have pointed out spectacular differences in terms of interaction patterns and inhibition values between hsTYR and abTYR, including for widely used standard tyrosinase inhibitors. In this review, we summarize the last developments regarding the potential role of hsTYR in human pathologies, the advances in recombinant expression systems and structural data retrieving, and the pioneer generation of true hsTYR inhibitors. Finally, we present suggestions for the design of future inhibitors of this highly attractive target in pharmacology and dermocosmetics.

Development, Characterization and Pharmacological Evaluation of Antiblemish Cream Containing Herbal Oils.

BACKGROUND: Many topical agents are available in the market, which interfere with the pigmentation process at different levels. They are often known to cause side effects ranging from irritation to tumor over chronic use. OBJECTIVE: The present study was designed to develop and characterize an anti blemish cream containing herbal oils. METHODS: A herbal cream was formulated using dill, nagarmotha and black cumin oil and subjected to evaluation of its anti blemish potential against stress augmented UV-B rays-induced hyperpigmentation. Topical oil in water type of creams containing 2%, 4% and 6% of each oil was formulated using herbal oils. The formulated cream was characterized for solubility, pH, particle size, grittiness, viscosity, stability, phase separation, shelf life and spreadability, and found to be stable. Acute dermal toxicity was carried out individually for dill, nagarmotha and black cumin oil according to the OECD guidelines 402. Hyperpigmentation was induced in all the experimental animals by stress-augmented UV-B irradiation method. The animals were treated for 30 days (twice daily) with standard and test formulations by topical administration, whereas the disease group was left untreated. The skin of the animals was subjected to photographical study as well as grading for pigmentation and irritation before and after treatment. After the treatment period, the serum antioxidant levels were estimated and histopathology, histochemical studies of skin were performed. RESULTS: The animals treated with test formulations containing 2%, 4%, and 6% of herbal oil showed significant improvement in pigmentation compared to disease control as it is evident in photographic biochemical, histopathological and histochemical studies. CONCLUSION: Thus, it was concluded that the developed anti-blemish cream containing herbal oils possesses significant anti-blemish potential. This study necessitates further evaluations in human subjects as it could have a high positive therapeutic value in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Fabrication, characterization and comparison of α-arbutin loaded dissolving and hydrogel forming microneedles.

In this study, polyacrylic acid-co-maleic acid (PAMA) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) (1:4) were used to fabricate dissolving microneedles (DMNs) and hydrogel forming microneedles (HMNs) which incorporated α-arbutin. Αlpha-arbutin is commonly used as a skin lightening agent. However, it has poor penetration ability due to its hydrophilic properties. The purpose of this study was to compare the permeation of α-arbutin into the skin using DMNs and HMNs. Both types of microneedles (MNs) were sharp, strong with elegant appearance and approximately 100% penetrated the neonatal porcine skin. All needles of α-arbutin loaded DMNs were completely dissolved within 45 min, whereas maximum swelling of HMNs was observed at 4 h. In vitro permeation studies showed that α-arbutin loaded DMNs and HMNs provided significantly about 4.5 and 2.8 times, respectively, greater α-arbutin permeability than gel and commercial cream (P < 0.05). In vivo study also showed high intradermal delivery of α-arbutin levels using DMNs (5.33 µg/mL) and HMNs (1.47 µg/mL) when compared to that of commercial cream 0.15 µg/mL. Moreover, the micro-holes caused by applying MNs can reseal within 1 h. MNs were also stable at 25 °C for 3 months. The results suggested that DMNs and HMNs developed have a promising platform for transdermal delivery.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging has many manifestations such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light-induced oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both water- and lipid-soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. Vitamins C and E have important protective effects in the aging process and require exogenous supply. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives that have the potential to hydrating and moisturizing skin. Topical products with these ingredients may therefore combine to provide improved anti-aging effects over single ingredients. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the anti-aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated serum containing vitamin C (20% w/w), vitamin E, and European raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf cell culture extract. METHODS: Fifty female volunteers aged 30-65 years were allocated one capsule of serum for topical application on one side of the face for 2 months, in addition to self-use of facial skin products. Both test (treated) and contralateral (untreated) sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index), elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured by Mexameter MX18® , Cutometer® , Glossymeter GL200® , Corneometer CM825® , and Tewameter TM300® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin microtopography parameters, smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw), were measured by Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH), and gross lifting effects were measured by VECTRA® H1 (Canfield Scientific), and adverse reactions and satisfaction were also assessed. RESULTS: Skin color, elasticity, and radiance were significantly improved. The smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles were also revealed significant improvement. Mild adverse reactions were tingling and tightness. CONCLUSIONS: The vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract serum has anti-aging and brightening effects of skin.

Identification and Characterization of the Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Caffeine from Camellia Pollen.

Tyrosinase inhibitors are important in cosmetic, medical, and food industries due to their regulation of melanin production. A tyrosinase inhibitor was purified from Camellia pollen using high-speed countercurrent chromatography and preparative high-performance liquid chromatography and was identified as caffeine by NMR and mass spectrometry. It showed strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity with an IC50 of 18.5 ± 2.31 µg/mL in a noncompetitive model. The caffeine did not interact with copper ions in the active center of the enzyme but could quench fluorescence intensity and change the secondary conformation of this tyrosinase. A molecular dynamics simulation showed that caffeine bound this tyrosinase via Lys379, Lys 376, Asp357, Glu356, Thr308, Gln307, Asp312, and Trp358, thus changing the binding sites of l-tyrosine and the loop conformation adjacent to the active center. In vitro cell model analysis revealed that caffeine exhibited significant inhibitory effects on both intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin production of B16-F10 melanoma cells in a concentration-dependent manner. These comprehensive results suggest that caffeine is a strong tyrosinase inhibitor that has the potential to be developed as skin-whitening agents in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries or as antibrowning agents in the food industry.

Size-dependent whitening activity of enzyme-degraded fucoidan from Laminaria japonica.

Fucoidan from Laminaria japonica is a kind of sulfate polysaccharide with high molecular weight (MW) and broad bioactivities. This study was performed to investigate the relationship between MW and whitening activity of fucoidan and to exploit a novel functional ingredient for whitening cosmetics. High sulfate content fucoidan was enzymic degraded by Flavobacterium RC2-3 produced fucoidanase. Two hours were enough for the enzyme degradation to achieve degraded fucoidan with favorable tyrosinase inhibitory ability. The whitening activity of different MW fucoidan fractions were evaluated by their tyrosinase inhibitory ability, antioxidant activity and cellular melanogenesis inhibitory ability. Results showed that in the MW range above 5 kDa, the smaller MW of fucoidan were related to the better whitening activity. The fucoidan fraction with the MW between 5-10 kDa, presented the best tyrosinase inhibitory activity (62.0%), antioxidant activity (48.3%) and excellent anti-melanogenesis ability in B16 cells, which could be applied as the whitening factor in cosmetics development.

In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy and Tolerability of a Non-Hydroquinone, Multi-Action Skin Tone Correcting Cream

Background: Pigmentation disorders are therapeutically challenging to treat, requiring complicated regimens. Objectives: Alternatives to hydroquinone (HQ) are desired. We evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a non-HQ multi-action skin tone corrector (ETCS) developed to inhibit melanin production and improve skin quality. Design and Methods: Twice-daily use of ETCS and ETCS + AHA-Ret, a retinoid-based alpha hydroxy acid cream, was evaluated in subjects with mild to severe dyschromia. Digital images were obtained at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks and included assessment of dyschromia, erythema, fine lines/wrinkles, pores, texture, and global improvement. Melanin Index (MI) measurements were obtained at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Subject self-assessments were obtained over the course of the study. Adverse Events (AEs) were collected throughout the study. An extension study evaluated use over 16-weeks. Results: Significant mean reductions from baseline occurred in dyschromia for ETCS (n=42) and ETCS + AHA-Ret (n=10) over 12 weeks (P<0.0001, each). Significant mean reductions from baseline in MI were achieved in both groups at every timepoint (ETCS: P<0.0001; ETCS + AHA-Ret: P<0.02, 4 weeks; P<0.0001, 8 and 12 weeks). Substantial improvements were demonstrated in global improvement, fine lines/wrinkles, erythema, pores, and texture at 12 weeks. Reductions from baseline occurred in dyschromia and MI (P<0.0001, each) at 16 weeks. High levels of subject satisfaction were reported with nearly all subjects reporting reduced appearance of uneven skin tone/discoloration and lightened darker patches, and improvement in overall skin tone. Mild, transient AEs were reported with no discontinuations due to an AE. Conclusions: Twice daily use of ETCS led to early, significant reductions in dyschromia and melanin index. Combination use with a retinoid-based, AHA cream in the evening demonstrated enhanced reductions. ETCS effectively reduced hyperpigmentation, improved overall skin appearance, and was highly tolerable. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(7):642-648.

Phenylethyl resorcinol smartLipids for skin brightening - Increased loading & chemical stability.

Phenylethyl resorcinol (PER, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol) is a very potent tyrosinase inhibitor with clinically proven effectiveness at already 0.5%. A major challenge of incorporating PER into dermal products is its high sensitivity against light. Previously, by incorporating PER in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC), chemical stability and tyrosinase activity could be increased by 29% and 67%, respectively. Despite this, degradation still occurred accompanied with reddish discoloration of the formulation - not acceptable for market products. In this study PER was incorporated into smartLipids, the 3rd generation of lipid carriers. Compared to NLC, the smartLipids formulation had a higher PER loading, was PEG-free and used ECOCERT-certified Lanette N. For PER stabilization, 14 additives from three groups were investigated: UV blockers, antioxidants and chelating agents. The UV blockers Tinosorb S and Oxynex ST liquid, as well as the chelating agents ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and phytic acid completely prevented reddish discoloration under test conditions (3 months in the dark and 7 days at light exposure). Investigating the stabilizing mechanisms, UV absorbers with high absorption in UV-A range were most effective (Tinosorb S, Oxynex liquid). They showed good stabilization in dark and at light exposure. Chelating agents had mainly an effect via pH shift to pH 2, thus are not suitable for dermal products requiring pH around 5. Antioxidants were less effective. The antioxidants propyl gallate and BHT showed best stabilization at storage in dark and slightly less at light exposure, not impairing the physical stability. Some antioxidants even accelerated discoloration (e.g. Tinogard TT). In general, low standard electrode potential (<0.4 mV) seems to be favorable for PER stabilization. In conclusion, Tinosorb S proved to be the best stabilizer; combination with an antioxidant is optional. By combination of smartPearls technology and the Tinosorb S stabilization, PER market products without discoloration are feasible.