Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical 0.1% Stabilized Bioactive Retinol for Photoaging: A Vehicle-Controlled Integrated Analysis.

INTRODUCTION: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet light photoages skin. Retinol, a precursor molecule to retinoic acid that causes less irritation, is available as a nonprescription, cosmetic retinoid and improves collagen production, skin elasticity, and signs of photoaging. Advances in formulation science have allowed the production of stabilized bioactive retinol formulations. This integrated analysis aims to build on previous studies and further examine the comprehensive efficacy and tolerability of topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol. METHODS: This analysis included 6 vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women with mild-to-moderate signs of photodamage. Across all studies, the same dermatologist investigator assessed overall photodamage; wrinkles on the forehead, cheeks, and undereye area; crow’s feet wrinkles and fine lines; lack of even skin tone; and brown spots at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12 on a numerical scale. Tolerability was also assessed. RESULTS: Participants (retinol, N=237; vehicle, N=234) had a mean (SD) age of 47.4 (6.6) years. Retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging vs vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks of application. Few participants experienced irritation; all events were mild to moderate and transient. The most common signs of irritation were erythema (n=2) and skin scaling/peeling (n=5). CONCLUSIONS: This pooled analysis of 6 vehicle-controlled clinical studies provides new evidence for the efficacy of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in improving signs of photoaging without causing major irritation. Topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol was well tolerated with only a few reported cases of skin irritation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):     doi:10.36849/JDD.8124.

Clinical Evaluation of Next-generation, Multi-weight Hyaluronic Acid Plus Antioxidant Complex-based Topical Formulations with Targeted Delivery to Enhance Skin Rejuvenation.

Introduction: Hyaluronic acid (HA) has become a commonly used ingredient in many topical products due to its strong humectant properties and essential role in skin hydration; however, limitations of delivery of HA to only the surface of skin has hindered leveraging the full capacity of HA biology necessary for skin rejuvenation. Here, we describe the clinical efficacy data of a set of novel next-generation, multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based topical formulations with targeted skin delivery to enhance skin rejuvenation. Methods: Four multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations: 1) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Lotion with SPF 30 (Day Lotion); 2) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Cream (Night Cream); 3) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Gel Cream; and 4) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Boost Serum were clinically evaluated for key attributes including moisturization via corneometer, with clinical grading of: dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles, and following daily use of the individual products for up to eight weeks. Results: Daily use of the multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations demonstrated significant improvements in all parameters evaluated compared to baselines, with changes in moisturization observed within 30 minutes of application, and changes in clinical grading parameters of dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles observed as early as two weeks. Conclusion: These data demonstrate the clinical benefits of daily use of multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based moisturizers for overall improvement in skin health and appearance.

Evaluation of Antioxidants' Ability to Enhance Hyaluronic-acid Based Topical Moisturizers.

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a unique molecule of the extracellular matrix with multiple biological activities. In skin, HA plays an essential role as a humectant, capable of binding up to 1,000 times its mass with water, providing skin with moisture and viscoelastic properties. HA concentration and synthesis decrease significantly in aging skin, due to exogenous and endogenous factors, including photoaging and HA metabolism. A key driver for HA degradation and reduced concentration is mediated via induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals. Objective: In this study, we evaluate antioxidant ingredients essential in the development of next-generation HA-based topical formulations aimed at leveraging HA's ability to maximize anti-aging properties. Methods: Two antioxidants, glycine saponin (Glycine soja germ extract) and glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone), were evaluated for stimulation of endogenous HA production and inhibition of endogenous hyaluronidase activity, respectively. Results: The antioxidant glycine saponin induced endogenous HA synthesis in fibroblasts, while the antioxidant glycyrrhetinic acid decreased the degradation rate of HA by 54 percent. Conclusion: While HA has been included in numerous topical skin products, critical aspects of HA metabolism, especially in aging skin, have often been overlooked, including decreases in HA synthesis with increasing age, and increases in HA degradation mediated by exogenously induced reactive oxygen species and free radicals and increased enzymatic degradation by endogenous hyaluronidases. Here, we describe a unique approach to inclusion of two antioxidants essential for the development of the next generation of antioxidant complex-based topical skin formulations to limit the signs of aging skin.