Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin.

BACKGROUND: Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated. OBJECTIVES: To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin. METHODS: An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling. RESULTS: Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Organic osmolytes increase expression of specific tight junction proteins in skin and alter barrier function in keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: The epidermal barrier is important for water conservation, failure of which is evident in dry-skin conditions. Barrier function is fulfilled by the stratum corneum, tight junctions (TJs, which control extracellular water) and keratinocyte mechanisms, such as organic osmolyte transport, which regulate intracellular water homeostasis. Organic osmolyte transport by keratinocytes is largely unexplored and nothing is known regarding how cellular and extracellular mechanisms of water conservation may interact. OBJECTIVES: We aimed to characterize osmolyte transporters in skin and keratinocytes, and, using transporter inhibitors, to investigate whether osmolytes can modify TJs. Such modification would suggest a possible link between intracellular and extracellular mechanisms of water regulation in skin. METHODS: Immunostaining and quantitative polymerase chain reaction of organic osmolyte-treated organ-cultured skin were used to identify changes to organic osmolyte transporters, and TJ protein and gene expression. TJ functional assays were performed on organic osmolyte-treated primary human keratinocytes in culture. RESULTS: Immunostaining demonstrated the expression of transporters for betaine, taurine and myo-inositol in transporter-specific patterns. Treatment of human skin with either betaine or taurine increased the expression of claudin-1, claudin-4 and occludin. Osmolyte transporter inhibition abolished this response. Betaine and taurine increased TJ function in primary human keratinocytes in vitro. CONCLUSIONS: Treatment of skin with organic osmolytes modulates TJ structure and function, which could contribute to the epidermal barrier. This emphasizes a role for organic osmolytes beyond the maintenance of intracellular osmolarity. This could be harnessed to enhance topical therapies for diseases characterized by skin barrier dysfunction.

Distinctive clinical and histological characteristics of atrophic and hypertrophic facial photoageing.

BACKGROUND: Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes which occur following chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Amongst White Northern Europeans, facial photoageing appears as distinct clinical phenotypes: 'hypertrophic' photoageing (HP) and 'atrophic' photoageing (AP). Deep, coarse wrinkles predominate in individuals with HP, whereas those with AP have relatively smooth, unwrinkled skin with pronounced telangiectasia. AP individuals have an increased propensity for developing keratinocyte cancers. OBJECTIVES: To investigate whether histological differences underlie these distinct phenotypes of facial photoageing. METHODS: Facial skin biopsies were obtained from participants with AP (10 M, 10 F; mean age: 78.7 years) or HP (10 M, 10 F; mean age: 74.5 years) and were assessed histologically and by immunohistochemistry. RESULTS: Demographic characterization revealed 95% of AP subjects, as compared to 35% with HP, were Fitzpatrick skin type I/II; of these, 50% had a history of one or more keratinocyte cancers. There was no history of keratinocyte cancers in the HP cohort. Analysis of UVR-induced mitochondrial DNA damage confirmed that all volunteers had received similar lifetime cumulative doses of sun exposure. Histologically, male AP had a significantly thicker epidermis than did AP females or those of either sex with HP. HP facial skin exhibited severe solar elastosis, whereas in AP facial skin, solar elastosis was apparent only in females. Loss of papillary dermal fibrillin-rich microfibrils occurred in all HP and AP female subjects, but not in AP males. Furthermore, male AP had a significant reduction in collagen VII at the dermal-epidermal junction than did AP females or those of either sex with HP. CONCLUSIONS: This study provides further evidence that AP and HP represent distinct clinical and histological entities. Knowledge of these two phenotypes is clinically relevant due to the increased prevalence of keratinocyte cancers in those - particularly males - with the AP phenotype.

The impact of perceived stress on skin ageing.

Skin ageing can be divided according to phenotypical features into intrinsic (by the passage of time) and extrinsic (with the addition of the effects of environmental factors). Photoageing is by far the most researched factor of extrinsic ageing but the additional impact of other factors such as cigarette smoking and exposure to air pollution ought to be taken into account. One of the least researched topics in relation to extrinsic skin ageing is the impact of psychological stress. A contemporary review of response of human skin to stress describes the molecular mechanisms of extrinsic skin ageing, but has fallen short of explaining resilience to stress exhibited by people. Mechanisms to regulate gene expression, define cellular identity and promote functionality are responsible for the adaptive response to stressful events. Conversely, maladaptive response of human tissues to chronic stress appears to have an impact on gene regulation. Epigenetics is the study of heritable changes in organisms due to modifications in gene activity and expression, as opposed to the genetic code (DNA genome). Chronic stress appears to be an important factor in determining an individual's vulnerability to ageing and age-related comorbidities via epigenetic modifications. Forerunners in epigenetic research recognized the necessity of a reliable biomarker in order to develop a better understanding of the role of epigenomics in ageing. Genomic DNA methylation patterns (DNAm) appear to be valuable in age prediction but variability in specificity exists across species of mammals, human races and tissues. Neuroscience research appears to be leading the way in epigenomics whilst the lack of a valid and reliable DNAm-associated age predictor compatible with human skin tissue hinders research endeavours for the epigenetics of skin ageing.

Aged human skin accumulates mast cells with altered functionality that localize to macrophages and vasoactive intestinal peptide-positive nerve fibres.

BACKGROUND: Skin health declines with age and this is partially attributed to immunosenescence. Mast cells (MCs) are innate immune cells that coordinate tissue immune responses integral to skin homeostasis and disease. OBJECTIVES: To understand how MCs contribute to human skin ageing, we investigated how intrinsic ageing impacts MC phenotype and MC relationships with other immune cells and skin structures. METHODS: In photoprotected skin biopsies from young (≤ 30 years) and aged (≥ 75 years) individuals, immunostaining and spatial morphometry were performed to identify changes in MC phenotype, number, distribution and interaction with the vasculature and nerve fibres. Quantitative polymerase chain reaction was used to measure changes in gene expression related to immune cell activity and neuropeptide signalling. RESULTS: Skin MCs, macrophages and CD8+ T cells increased in number in intrinsically aged vs. young skin by 40%, 44% and 90%, respectively (P < 0·05), while CD4+ T cells and neutrophils were unchanged. In aged skin, MCs were more numerous in the papillary dermis and showed a reduced incidence of degranulation (50% lower than in young, P < 0·01), a conserved tryptase-chymase phenotype and coexpression of granzyme B. In aged skin, MCs increased their association with macrophages (~ 48% vs. ~27%, P < 0·05) and nerve fibres (~29% vs. 16%, P < 0·001), while reducing their interactions with blood vessels (~34% vs. 45%, P < 0·001). Additionally, we observed modulation of gene expression of vasoactive intestinal peptide (VIP; increased) and substance P (decreased) with age; this was associated with an increased frequency of VIP+ nerve fibres (around three times higher in aged skin, P < 0·05), which were strongly associated with MCs (~19% in aged vs. 8% in young, P < 0·05). CONCLUSIONS: In photoprotected skin we observed an accumulation of MCs with increasing age. These MCs have both altered functionality and distribution within the skin, which supports a role for these cells in altered tissue homeostasis during ageing.

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin.

OBJECTIVE: With increasing age, skin is subject to alterations in its organization, which impact on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study, we utilize proteomics to characterize and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis. METHODS: Skin biopsies from buttock (photoprotected) and forearm (photoexposed) of healthy volunteers (aged 18-30 or ≥65 years) were transversely sectioned from the stratum corneum to a depth of 250 µm. Following SDS-PAGE, each sample lane was segmented prior to analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry. Pathway analysis was carried out using Ingenuity IPA. RESULTS: Comparison of skin proteomes at buttock and forearm sites revealed differences in relative protein abundance. Ageing in skin on the photoexposed forearm resulted in 80% of the altered proteins being increased with age, in contrast to the photoprotected buttock where 74% of altered proteins with age were reduced. Functionally, age-altered proteins in the photoexposed forearm were associated with conferring structure, energy and metabolism. In the photoprotected buttock, proteins associated with gene expression, free-radical scavenging, protein synthesis and protein degradation were most frequently altered. CONCLUSION: This study highlights the necessity of not considering photoageing as an accelerated intrinsic ageing, but as a distinct physiological process.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'âge, la peau est sujette à des altérations dans son organisation, et outre le fait d'avoir des conséquences cliniques cela a un impact sur sa fonction. La protéomique est un outil utile pour l'évaluation non ciblée, semi-quantitative, simultanée d'un nombre élevé de protéines. Dans cette étude, nous utilisons la protéomique pour caractériser et comparer les différences associées à l'âge entre une peau photoexposée et une peau photoprotégée, avec une attention particulière sur l'épiderme, la jonction dermo-épidermique et le derme papillaire. MÉTHODES: Des biopsies de peau de la fesse (photoprotégée) et de l'avant-bras (photoexposée) de volontaires sains (âgés de 18 à 30 ans ou de ≥ 65 ans) ont été sectionnées transversalement depuis la couche cornée jusqu'à une profondeur de 250 µm. Suite à une électrophorèse SDS-PAGE, chaque échantillon a été segmenté avant l'analyse par chromatographie en phase liquide couplée à la spectrométrie de masse/spectrométrie de masse. Une analyse des voies de signalisation a été réalisée à l'aide d'Ingenuity IPA. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison des protéomes de la peau des sites des fesses et de l'avant-bras a révélé des différences dans l'abondance relative de protéines. Le vieillissement de la peau de l'avant-bras photoexposée montre une augmentation de 80% des protéines altérées avec l'âge, contrairement à la peau des fesses photoprotégée où une réduction de 74 % des protéines altérées avec l'âge a été mesurée. Sur le plan de la fonction, les protéines altérées par l'âge dans la peau de l'avant-bras photoexposée étaient associées à une structure, une énergie et un métabolisme. Dans la peau des fesses photoprotégée, les protéines associées à l'expression génique, la neutralisation des radicaux-libres, la synthèse des protéines et la dégradation des protéines étaient le plus fréquemment altérés. CONCLUSION: Cette étude souligne la nécessité de ne pas considérer le photovieillissement comme un vieillissement accéléré intrinsèque, mais comme un processus physiologique distinct.

A photonumeric scale for the assessment of atrophic facial photodamage.

BACKGROUND: Photonumeric scales have consistently shown superiority over descriptive equivalents. They have the advantage of providing a consistent visual frame of reference by minimizing variability in perception and subjectivity. A photonumeric scale to assess hypertrophic facial photodamage already exists. However, there is currently no objective measure for atrophic facial photodamage. To address this, we have devised a nine-point photonumeric standardized scale. OBJECTIVES: To design, test and validate a photonumeric scale for the assessment of atrophic facial photodamage against a descriptive scale for the same indication. METHODS: A pool of 393 facial photographs (en face and 45° oblique) from 131 individuals with atrophic facial photodamage was created. Five photographic standards were selected and assigned grades zero through to eight, where zero is no photodamage and eight is severe atrophic photodamage, thus making a nine-point scale. Twenty photographs spanning the entire range of values were selected to test the scale. Testing was performed alongside a descriptive equivalent. A panel of 10 dermatologists, 10 nondermatology clinicians and 14 dermatology scientists marked the two scales; marking was repeated 1 week later. RESULTS: There was a significantly greater agreement between the graders using the photonumeric scale than the descriptive scale (kappa values 0·71 and 0·37 with standardized errors of 0·57 and 0·17, respectively) with no significant difference in repeatability between the two methods (P < 0·05). CONCLUSIONS: The study describes a new photonumeric scale for atrophic photodamage. This would be a useful adjunct in both the clinical and research settings.

Organization of the dermal matrix impacts the biomechanical properties of skin.

BACKGROUND: Human skin has the crucial roles of maintaining homeostasis and protecting against the external environment. Skin offers protection against mechanical trauma due to the reversible deformation of its structure; these biomechanical properties are amenable to dynamic testing using noninvasive devices. OBJECTIVES: To characterize the biomechanical properties of young, black African/African-Caribbean and white Northern European skin from different anatomical sites, and to relate underlying skin architecture to biomechanical function. METHODS: Using cutometry and ballistometry, the biomechanical properties of buttock and dorsal forearm skin were determined in black African/African-Caribbean (n = 18) and white Northern European (n = 20) individuals aged 18-30 years. Skin biopsies were obtained from a subset of the volunteers (black African/African-Caribbean, n = 5; white Northern European, n = 6) and processed for histological and immunohistochemical detection of the major elastic fibre components and fibrillar collagens. RESULTS: We have determined that healthy skin from young African and white Northern European individuals has similar biomechanical properties (F3): the skin is resilient (capable of returning to its original position following deformation, R1), exhibits minimal fatigue (R4) and is highly elastic (R2, R5 and R7). At the histological level, skin with these biomechanical properties is imbued with strong interdigitation of the rete ridges at the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) and candelabra-like arrays of elastic fibres throughout the papillary dermis. Dramatic disruption to this highly organized arrangement of elastic fibres, effacement of the rete ridges and alterations to the alignment of the fibrillar collagens is apparent in the white Northern European forearm and coincides with a marked decline in biomechanical function. CONCLUSIONS: Maintenance of skin architecture - both epidermal morphology and elastic fibre arrangement - is essential for optimal skin biomechanical properties. Disruption to underlying skin architecture, as observed in the young white Northern European forearm, compromises biomechanical function.

Novel approaches to characterize age-related remodelling of the dermal-epidermal junction in 2D, 3D and in vivo.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) forms epidermal protrusions down into the dermis (rete ridges) and dermal projections up into the epidermis (dermal papillae). Usually visualized in two-dimensions (2D), our knowledge of how the DEJ changes with ageing is limited. We aimed to characterize how this structure exists in 3D and changes with age. METHODS: Photoprotected and photoexposed skin were imaged using reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) in young and aged individuals. Biopsies of the imaged areas were processed for histological sectioning and for imaging using micro-computed X-ray tomography (microCT). RESULTS: Images obtained from RCM and microCT were used to 3D reconstruct the DEJ. DEJ heights obtained from microCT images showed strong correlation with histology-measured heights. We proposed a novel definition of rete ridges (RRm ) and dermal papillae (DPm ), which allowed easier automated measurement of reduced DPm and RRm volumes in aged skin from microCT reconstructions. An algorithm to map DPm connectivity showed reduced lengths of DPm branches with age. CONCLUSION: Three-dimensional images illustrated the complex topography of the DEJ and highlighted the distinct morphology of dermal papillae compared with rete ridges, which is not evident when evaluating 2D sections. Ex vivo imaging was more successful in differentiating DEJ architecture with respect to age.

An abnormality in glucocorticoid receptor expression differentiates steroid responders from nonresponders in keloid disease.

BACKGROUND: Glucocorticoids (GCs) are first-line treatment for keloid disease (KD) but are limited by high incidence of resistance, recurrence and undesirable side-effects. Identifying patient responsiveness early could guide therapy. METHODS: Nineteen patients with KD were recruited at week 0 (before treatment) and received intralesional steroids. At weeks 0, 2 and 4, noninvasive imaging and biopsies were performed. Responsiveness was determined by clinical response and a significant reduction in vascular perfusion following steroid treatment, using full-field laser perfusion imaging (FLPI). Responsiveness was also evaluated using (i) spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis to quantify changes in collagen and melanin and (ii) histology to identify changes in epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) expression. Biopsies were used to quantify changes in glucocorticoid receptor (GR) expression using quantitative reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction, immunoblotting and immunohistochemistry. RESULTS: At week 2, the FLPI was used to separate patients into steroid responsive (n = 12) and nonresponsive groups (n = 7). All patients demonstrated a significant decrease in GAG at week 2 (P < 0.05). At week 4, responsive patients exhibited significant reduction in melanin, GAG, epidermal thickness (all P < 0.05) and a continued reduction in perfusion (P < 0.001) compared with nonresponders. Steroid-responsive patients had increased GR expression at baseline and showed autoregulation of GR compared with nonresponders, who showed no change in GR transcription or protein. CONCLUSIONS: This is the first demonstration that keloid response to steroids can be measured objectively using noninvasive imaging. FLPI is a potentially reliable tool to stratify KD responsiveness. Altered GR expression may be the mechanism gating therapeutic response.

Geographical ancestry is a key determinant of epidermal morphology and dermal composition.

BACKGROUND: Geographical ancestry plays a key role in determining the susceptibility of human skin to external insults and dermatological disease. Despite this, studies of skin from individuals of diverse geographical ancestry focus primarily on epidermal pigmentation. Few reports characterize the gross morphology and composition of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). OBJECTIVES: To characterize epidermal morphology and dermal composition in skin from individuals of diverse geographical ancestry. METHODS: Immunohistochemical techniques were used to assess epidermal morphology and protein composition of the DEJ and dermal extracellular matrix in photoprotected skin from young African, Eurasian and Far East Asian individuals (n = 7 per group; age 18-30 years). RESULTS: The epidermis of African skin was thicker, with deeper rete ridges and a more convoluted DEJ than Eurasian and Far East Asian skin. Compared with Eurasians, protein composition of the DEJ was collagen VII poor in African and Far East Asian skin (P < 0·001 and P < 0·01, respectively); the dermis of African skin was enriched in fibrillar collagens (P < 0·05), but was relatively elastin poor (P < 0·05). African dermis was abundant in fibrillin-rich microfibrils and fibulin-5 (P < 0·001 and P < 0·001, respectively) compared with Eurasian and Far East Asian skin. CONCLUSIONS: We demonstrate that fundamental differences exist in skin structure and composition in individuals of diverse geographical ancestry. Disparate environmental pressures encountered by ancestral human populations living at different latitudes may have driven adaptations in skin structure and composition. Further research into the functional significance and clinical consequences of these differences is warranted.

In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing.

BACKGROUND: LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models. OBJECTIVES: The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action. RESULTS: In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles. CONCLUSIONS: The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.