Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

A Dermocosmetic Significantly Reduces the Frequency and Intensity of Facial Skin Intolerability and Sensitivity in Subjects with Skin Intolerant to Skin Care Products and Sensitive Skin.

Introduction: Intolerance to dermocosmetics is frequent in subjects with allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). A dermocosmetic (DC) was developed to restore the natural skin barrier, to reduce skin inflammation and to improve sensitive skin in ACD. Objective: To assess the benefit of a DC in subjects with an allergic background and intolerance to cosmetic care, or with sensitive skin. Materials and Methods: In this open-label study, 107 subjects above 16 years of age applied DC on the face twice a day for 28 days. Assessments at Days 0, 14 and 28, included skin sensitivity, stinging test, local tolerance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, inflammatory biomarkers (IL-1α, IL-1RA, PGE2) using tape stripping and subject satisfaction. Results: 88% were women and mean age was 42.0±15.0 years. Skin sensitivity at inclusion scored 5.9±0.35; 46% had ACD, 95% skin irritation, 92% sensitive skin and 88% intolerance to cosmetics. A significant (p<0.0001) 85% decrease of frequency and intensity of the composite score was observed at both endpoints. Stinging scores significantly (p<0.0001) decreased from 3.9 at baseline to 2.4 at Day 14 and 1.4 at Day 28; 77% and 81% of subjects reported improved skin reactivity at Day 14 and Day 28, respectively. Similar improvements were noted in the frequency and intensity of irritation, erythema, stinging, burning and discomfort. TEWL, skin hydration and inflammatory biomarker levels significantly (p<0.0001) improved. Overall subject satisfaction (85%) and tolerance (investigators: 99%, subjects: 97%) were high. Conclusion: DC significantly reduced the frequency and intensity of facial skin intolerability and sensitivity in subjects with skin intolerant to skin care products. Clinicaltrialsgov Identifier: NCT05487937.