Dope Dyeing of Regenerated Cellulose Fibres with Leucoindigo as Base for Circularity of Denim.

Circularity of cellulose-based pre- and post-consumer wastes requires an integrated approach which has to consider the characteristics of the fibre polymer and the presence of dyes and additives from textile chemical processing as well. Fibre-to-fibre recycling is a condition to avoid downcycling of recycled material. For cellulose fibres regeneration via production of regenerated cellulose fibres is the most promising approach. Textile wastes contain dyes and additives, thus a recycling technique has to be robust enough to process such material. In an ideal case the reuse of colorants can be achieved as well. At present nearly 80% of the regenerated cellulose fibre production utilises the viscose process, therefore this technique was chosen to investigate the recycling of dyed material including the reuse of the colorant. In this work, for the first time, a compilation of all required process steps to a complete circular concept is presented and discussed as a model. Indigo-dyed viscose fibres were used as a model to study cellulose recycling via production of regenerated cellulose fibres to avoid downcycling. Indigo was found compatible to the alkalisation and xanthogenation steps in the viscose process and blue coloured cellulose regenerates were recovered from indigo-dyed cellulose. A supplemental addition of reduced indigo to the cellulose solution was also found feasible to adjust colour depth in the regenerated cellulose to the level required for use as warp material in denim production. By combination of fibre recycling and indigo dyeing the conventional yarn dyeing in denim production can be omitted. Model calculations for the savings in water and chemical consumption demonstrate the potential of the process. The proportion of the substitution will depend on the collection rate of denim wastes and on the efficiency of the fibre regeneration process. Estimates indicate that a substitution of more than 70% of the cotton fibres by regenerated cellulose fibres could be achieved when 80% of the pre- and post-consumer denim wastes are collected. Therefore, the introduction of fibre recycling via regenerated cellulose fibres will also make a substantial impact on the cotton consumption for jeans production.

Special Issue "Textile-Based Advanced Materials: Construction, Properties and Applications".

Developments in the science and technology of textiles is not only limited to apparel and fashion [...].

Ion-interactions as driving force in polysaccharide assembly.

The structure of cellulose is characterised by extensive non-covalent interactions. Recent discussions suggest that hydrophobic interactions between polymer chains also play a significant role in governing cellulose solubility. Surprisingly in almost all cellulose shaping processes, chemical systems or solvents are applied, which base on melts or solutions of charged molecules. Ionic interactions play a significant role in the shaping and modification of cellulose based materials. Dependent on the systems used different principles govern the processes and define the results, e.g. formation of associates with alkali hydroxides, ion-exchange reactions to selectively bind multivalent ions at carboxylic groups, adsorption of dissolved polymers through surface charge neutralisation or metal complex formation, where cellulose takes the role of a polymer ligand system. Presence of charged compounds takes a significant role in cellulose swelling and dissolution, but also directs reassembly of polysaccharide material to solid three-dimensional structures.

Copper inclusion in cellulose using sodium D-gluconate complexes.

Copper containing cellulose material is of growing interest, e.g. offering alternative in the field of antimicrobials. Solutions of copper d-gluconate complexes (Cu(2+)-DGL) were used to introduce copper ions into a swollen cellulosic matrix. A ligand exchange mechanism forms the chemical basis of the sorption process. Copper sorption in cellulose was studied in the range between pH 6 and 13. An estimate for the complex stabilities of the Cu-cellulose system could be derived from the calculated species distribution of the different Cu(2+)-DGL complexes present. Spectrophotometry and cyclic voltammetry of Cu(2+)-DGL complex solution were used to confirm the presence of different species participating in the ligand exchange reaction. The pH dependent uptake of Cu(2+) ions in the cellulose matrix can be explained on the basis of the relative stabilities of Cu(2+)-DGL complex vs. Cu(2+)-cellulose complexes. In comparison to pH 10, higher copper content was observed at pH 6 and 13. Copper content was limited by carboxyl content of cellulosic materials, thus in analogy to the structure of Cu(2+)-DGL complexes participation of the carboxyl group as complex forming site is proposed. At high Cu(2+)-concentration and longer time of immersion in the copper complex solutions formation of solid deposits was observed on the surface of the treated fibres.

Sorption of anionic polysaccharides by cellulose.

The sorption of anionic polysaccharides pectin, alginate, and xanthan with cellulose were investigated in presence of calcium. Calcium sorption to cellulose was limited by the carboxyl group content in fibers. Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy (AAS) analysis was used to measure the calcium in cellulose fibers and chemical oxygen demand (COD) analysis reveals that the divalent ions calcium can bind the polysaccharide onto cellulose fibers. The amount of calcium and polysaccharide bound in Ca2+/polysaccharide modified cellulose fibers was 5.8-12.5mM Ca2+/kg fibers and 1500-2400mg polysaccharide/kg fibers, respectively. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy-Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR) analysis confirmed the presence of polysaccharide on calcium containing cellulose fibers. The results of alizarin dyeing experiments at the end of polysaccharide sorption further confirmed the presence of calcium in Ca2+/polysaccharide modified cellulose fibers. The basic phenomenon of interaction of soluble ionic polysaccharide and cellulosic fibers in presence of divalent cations such as calcium is a key to understand biological functions and technological applications.

Sorption of chlorhexidine on cellulose: mechanism of binding and molecular recognition.

Chlorhexidine (CH) is an effective antimicrobial agent. There has been very little work published concerning the interactions of CH with, and its adsorption mechanism on, cellulose. In this paper, such physical chemistry parameters are examined and related to computational chemistry studies. Adsorption isotherms were constructed following application of CH to cellulose. These were typical of a Langmuir adsorption isotherm, but at higher concentrations displayed good correlation also with a Freundlich isotherm. Sorption was attributed to a combination of electrostatic (major contribution) and hydrogen bonding forces, which endorsed computational chemistry proposals: electrostatic interactions between CH and carboxylic acid groups in the cellulose dominate with a contribution to binding through hydrogen bonding of the biguanide residues and the p-chlorophenol moieties (Yoshida H-bonding) with the cellulose hydroxyl groups. At high CH concentrations, there is evidence of monolayer and bilayer aggregation. Differences in sorption between CH and another antimicrobial agent previously studied, poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) (PHMB), are attributed to higher molecular weight of PHMB and higher charge density of biguanide residues in CH (due to the relative electron withdrawing effect of the p-chlorophenol moiety).