2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity.

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2-MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.

The application of a multi-component reaction peptide as a model regenerative active to enhance skin wound-healing postlaser procedure in a double-blinded placebo-controlled clinical trial.

INTRODUCTION: Esthetic procedures are currently among the most effective options for consumers seeking to correct aging signs such as fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone unevenness. Currently, there is a scientific need for an adjunct active to be paired with esthetic procedures to encourage wound recovery and address postprocedure pigmentation concerns. OBJECTIVE: Toward that goal, this study assessed the efficacy of a peptide created from a multi-component reaction (multi-component peptide, MCP) as a model active for postprocedure care and evaluated its ability to promote skin healing in an ablative laser-induced wound model on the forearm. METHODS: The mechanism of action of MCP was investigated using tubo assays, 2D melanocyte, and fibroblast cultures, reconstructed skin equivalents, and ex vivo skin explants. The MCP formula and the clinical benchmark formula of Aquaphor were assessed head-to-head by applying the products topically in an ablative laser-induced wound model (n = 20 subjects). The promotion of wound healing was evaluated by the investigator assessment of epithelial confluence, crusting or scabbing, general wound appearance, erythema, and edema. RESULTS: MCP was determined to be beneficial to postprocedure skin recovery and healing by four main mechanisms of action: barrier repair as determined in an ex vivo tape-stripping model, reduction of inflammation and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, reduction of elastase activity, and stimulation of fibroblast through the mTOR pathway. The formula containing 10% MCP enhanced the kinetics of epithelial confluence and improvement of the crusting or scabbing appearance of the laser-generated wounds in a laser-induced mini-zone wound healing study on the forearm. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the use of MCP as a proof of concept regenerative active that when incorporated into an optimized postprocedure skincare formula can improve skin healing and enhance the appearance of skin after injury with relevance to ablative aesthetic procedures.

Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial.

BACKGROUND: UVA1 rays (340-400 nm) contribute to carcinogenesis, immunosuppression, hyperpigmentation, and aging. Current sunscreen formulas lack sufficient absorption in the 370-400 nm wavelengths range. Recently, a new UVA1 filter, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) exhibiting a peak of absorption at 385 nm, was approved by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety for use in sunscreen products. These studies evaluated, in a three-dimensional skin model and in vivo, the protection afforded by state-of-the-art sunscreen formulations enriched with MCE. TRIAL DESIGN: This study is a monocentric, double-blinded, randomized, and comparative trial. This study is registered at ClinicalTrials.gov with the identification number NCT04865094. METHODS: The efficacy of sunscreens with MCE was compared with that of reference formulas. In a three-dimensional skin model, histology, protein, and gene expression were analyzed. In the clinical trial, pigmentation was analyzed in 19 volunteers using colorimetric measurements and visual scoring. RESULTS: MCE addition in reference formulas enlarged the profile of absorption up to 400 nm; reduced UVA1-induced dermal and epidermal alterations at cellular, biochemical, and molecular levels; and decreased UVA1-induced pigmentation. CONCLUSIONS: Addition of MCE absorber in sunscreen formulations leads to full coverage of UV spectrum and improved UVA1 photoprotection. The data support benefits in the long term on sun-induced consequences, especially those related to public health care issues.

Sulfonamide Inhibition Profile of the ß-Carbonic Anhydrase from Malassezia restricta, An Opportunistic Pathogen Triggering Scalp Conditions.

The critical CO2 hydration reaction to bicarbonate and protons is catalyzed by carbonic anhydrases (CAs, EC 4.2.1.1). Their physiological role is to assist the transport of the CO2 and HCO3- at the cellular level, which will not be ensured by the low velocity of the uncatalyzed reaction. CA inhibition may impair the growth of microorganisms. In the yeasts, Candida albicans and Malassezia globosa, the activity of the unique ß-CA identified in their genomes was demonstrated to be essential for growth of the pathogen. Here, we decided to investigate the sulfonamide inhibition profile of the homologous ß-CA (MreCA) identified in the genome of Malassezia restricta, an opportunistic pathogen triggering dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Among 40 investigated derivatives, the best MreCA sulfonamide inhibitors were dorzolamide, brinzolamide, indisulam, valdecoxib, sulthiam, and acetazolamide (KI < 1.0 µM). The MreCA inhibition profile was different from those of the homologous enzyme from Malassezia globosa (MgCA) and the human isoenzymes (hCA I and hCA II). These results might be useful to for designing CA inhibitor scaffolds that may selectively inhibit the dandruff-producing fungi.

Multi-dimensional computational pipeline for large-scale deep screening of compound effect assessment: an in silico case study on ageing-related compounds.

Designing alternative approaches to efficiently screen chemicals on the efficacy landscape is a challenging yet indispensable task in the current compound profiling methods. Particularly, increasing regulatory restrictions underscore the need to develop advanced computational pipelines for efficacy assessment of chemical compounds as alternative means to reduce and/or replace in vivo experiments. Here, we present an innovative computational pipeline for large-scale assessment of chemical compounds by analysing and clustering chemical compounds on the basis of multiple dimensions-structural similarity, binding profiles and their network effects across pathways and molecular interaction maps-to generate testable hypotheses on the pharmacological landscapes as well as identify potential mechanisms of efficacy on phenomenological processes. Further, we elucidate the application of the pipeline on a screen of anti-ageing-related compounds to cluster the candidates based on their structure, docking profile and network effects on fundamental metabolic/molecular pathways associated with the cell vitality, highlighting emergent insights on compounds activities based on the multi-dimensional deep screen pipeline.

Anion Inhibition Profile of the ß-Carbonic Anhydrase from the Opportunist Pathogenic Fungus Malassezia Restricta Involved in Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis.

Carbonic anhydrases (CAs, EC 4.2.1.1) are ubiquitous metalloenzymes, which catalyze the crucial physiological CO2 hydration/dehydration reaction (CO2 + H2O ⇌ HCO3- + H+) balancing the equilibrium between CO2, H2CO3, HCO3- and CO32-. It has been demonstrated that their selective inhibition alters the equilibrium of the metabolites above affecting the biosynthesis and energy metabolism of the organism. In this context, our interest has been focalized on the fungus Malassezia restricta, which may trigger dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis altering the complex bacterial and fungal equilibrium of the human scalp. We investigated a rather large number of inorganic metal-complexing anions (a well-known class of CA inhibitors) for their interaction with the ß-CA (MreCA) encoded by the M. restricta genome. The results were compared with those obtained for the two human ?-CA isoforms (hCAI and hCAII) and the ß-CA from Malassezia globosa. The most effective MreCA inhibitors were diethyldithiocarbamate, sulfamide, phenyl arsenic acid, stannate, tellurate, tetraborate, selenocyanate, trithiocarbonate, and bicarbonate. The different KI values obtained for the four proteins investigated might be attributed to the architectural features of their catalytic site. The anion inhibition profile is essential for better understanding the inhibition/catalytic mechanisms of these enzymes and for designing novel types of inhibitors, which may have clinical applications for the management of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.

Cloning, Purification, and Characterization of a ß-Carbonic Anhydrase from Malassezia restricta, an Opportunistic Pathogen Involved in Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis.

The cloning, purification, and initial characterization of the ß-carbonic anhydrase (CA, EC 4.2.1.1) from the genome of the opportunistic pathogen Malassezia restricta (MreCA), which a fungus involved in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis (SD), is reported. MreCA is a protein consisting of 230 amino acid residues and shows high catalytic activity for the hydration of CO2 into bicarbonate and protons, with the following kinetic parameters: kcat of 1.06 × 106 s-1 and kcat/KM of 1.07 × 108 M-1 s-1. It is also sensitive to inhibition by the sulfonamide acetazolamide (KI of 50.7 nM). Phylogenetically, MreCA and other CAs from various Malassezia species seem to be on a different branch, distinct from that of other ß-CAs found in fungi, such as Candida spp., Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Aspergillus fumigatus, and Sordaria macrospora, with only Cryptococcus neoformans and Ustilago maydis enzymes clustering near MreCA. The further characterization of this enzyme and the identification of inhibitors that may interfere with its life cycle might constitute new strategies for fighting dandruff and SD.

Divergent Entry to C-Glycosides from Unprotected Sugars.

An efficient, divergent, and straightforward access to novel C-glycosides has been developed, namely, α-hydroxy carboxamide and carboxylic acid derivatives, via a green and scalable process from unprotected carbohydrates. The method involves condensation of 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid with unprotected sugars followed by subsequent barbiturate oxidative cleavage in the same pot. Further expanding of the chemistry led to the development of efficient entries to diastereoisomerically pure C-glycosyl-α-hydroxy esters or amides through nucleophilic attack on a readily available and versatile key lactone intermediate.

A Bioinspired Synthesis of Polyfunctional Indoles.

Polyfunctional indoles bearing substituents at C5 and C6 are prevalent in natural products, pharmaceuticals, agrochemicals, and materials. Owing to the remoteness of the C5 and C6 positions, indoles of this family can be difficult to prepare, and often require multistep syntheses. Herein, we describe a concise process that converts simple derivatives of tyrosine into 5,6-difunctionalized indoles by direct oxidation of C-H, N-H, and O-H bonds. Our work draws inspiration from the biosynthetic polymerization of tyrosine to make melanin pigments, but makes an important departure to provide well-defined indole heterocycles.

Skin cell protection against UVA by Sideroxyl, a new antioxidant complementary to sunscreens.

Oxidative stress resulting from photosensitized ROS production in skin is widely accepted as the main contributor to the deleterious effects of UVA exposure. Among the mechanisms known to be involved in UVA-induced oxidative damage, iron plays a central role. UVA radiation of skin cells induces an immediate release of iron, which can then act as a catalyst for uncontrolled oxidation reactions of cell components. Such site-specific damage can scarcely be counteracted by classical antioxidants. In contrast, iron chelators potentially offer an effective way to protect skin against UVA insults. However, iron chelation is very difficult to achieve without disturbing iron homeostasis or inducing iron depletion. A novel compound was developed to avoid these potentially harmful side effects. Sideroxyl was designed to acquire its strong chelating capability only during oxidative stress according to an original process of intramolecular hydroxylation. Herein, we describe in vitro results demonstrating the protective efficiency of Sideroxyl against deleterious effects of UVA at the molecular, cellular, and tissular levels. First, the Sideroxyl diacid form protects a model protein against UVA-induced photosensitized carbonylation. Second, intracellular ROS are dose-dependently decreased in the presence of Sideroxyl in both human cultured fibroblasts and human keratinocytes. Third, Sideroxyl protects normal human fibroblasts against UVA-induced DNA damage as measured by the comet assay and MMP-1 production. Finally, Sideroxyl provides protection against UVA-induced alterations in human reconstructed skin. These results suggest that Sideroxyl may prevent UVA-induced damage in human skin as a complement to sunscreens, especially in the long-wavelength UVA range.