Safety-in-use test of facial cosmetic products on normal and self-assessed sensitive skin subjects.

BACKGROUND: Safety-in-use (SIU) studies are commonly used by the cosmetic Industry to confirm the skin and ocular compatibility of cosmetic products under realistic in-use conditions. There are only limited case studies published about the design, outcome and interpretation of product SIU studies. OBJECTIVE: A series of SIU case studies is presented to demonstrate the considerations in study design and how the methodology can help in supporting skin and ocular safety profile of facial cosmetic products within a population of different ethnicities with normal and self-perceived sensitive skin. SUBJECTS/METHODS: In a series of four single-blinded SIU studies, more than 250 female study subjects of different ethnicities and with normal and self-assessed sensitive skin were asked to use different facial cosmetic products including lotions, essences and cleansers according to the instructed usage conditions of these products. Each study was specifically designed according to product usage scenarios and target consumer groups. The primary measures of safety were based on dermal evaluations by a dermatologist for erythema and dryness/scaling and by an ophthalmologist for any visible signs of an ocular condition on eyelids, conjunctivae and cornea. The study subjects were also asked for any self-perceived skin or eye reactions. Dermal and ocular irritation potential of the products under realistic product usage conditions was evaluated according to the measures. RESULTS: Across all studies, objectively and self-assessed mean scores for skin and eye effects did not indicate any cumulative response of the investigated products over the study period. CONCLUSIONS: As a suitable tool for assessing and establishing the skin and eye compatibility of facial cosmetic products, SIU studies can be designed according to specific consumer groups, skin types and product usage scenarios to better predict realistic in-use conditions. It can demonstrate the safe use of the investigated products for people of different ethnicities, skin types and with normal or self-assessed sensitive skin, single product use or regimen use. The test results are consistent with the inherently low irritation potential of the products.

Mechanistic Skin Modeling of Plasma Concentrations of Sunscreen Active Ingredients Following Facial Application.

Sunscreen products constitute two distinct categories. Recreational sunscreens protect against high-intensity, episodic sun exposure, often applied over the entire body. In contrast, facial sunscreen products are designed for sub-erythemal, low-intensity daily sun exposure. Such different exposures necessitate distinctive product safety assessments. Building on earlier methods for predicting dermal disposition, a mechanistic model was developed to simulate plasma concentrations of seven organic sunscreen active ingredients: avobenzone, ensulizole, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, and oxybenzone, following facial application. In vitro permeation testing (IVPT) was performed with two different vehicles using a subset of the UV filters. These IVPT results, in addition to previously published IVPT data and published in vivo Maximal Usage Trial (MUsT) data for the UV filters, were used to train the mechanistic dermal model via a Bayesian Markov chain Monte Carlo (MCMC) method. An external validation of the trained model with real-world in vivo datasets demonstrated that the model's predicted UV filter plasma concentrations align well with experimental measurements and capture the observed inter-individual variability. Predictions of steady-state UV filter plasma concentrations under facial application scenarios at 5% concentration and at the maximal allowable concentrations were then generated by the trained model. Oxybenzone had the greatest predicted plasma concentration following facial application. Homosalate and octisalate predictions had high uncertainty associated with the absence of data. Several application scenarios pertaining to avobenzone, ensulizole, octocrylene and octinoxate were identified in which median plasma concentration levels were at 0.5 ng/ml or below when applied in the recreational or facial product. Model limitations include uncertainty in vehicle/water partitioning, formulation metamorphosis, and UV filter systemic clearance, all of which can be refined with additional data. For UV filters, limiting exposure to facial application reduces human safety concerns based on FDA established thresholds.

Comparison between endocrine activity assessed using ToxCast/Tox21 database and human plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients/UV filters.

Sunscreen products are composed of ultraviolet (UV) filters and formulated to reduce exposure to sunlight thereby lessening skin damage. Concerns have been raised regarding the toxicity and potential endocrine disrupting (ED) effects of UV filters. The ToxCast/Tox21 program, that is, CompTox, is a high-throughput in vitro screening database of chemicals that identify adverse outcome pathways, key events, and ED potential of chemicals. Using the ToxCast/Tox21 database, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and avobenzone, 6 commonly used organic UV filters, were found to have been evaluated. These UV filters showed low potency in these bioassays with most activity detected above the range of the cytotoxic burst. The pathways that were most affected were the cell cycle and the nuclear receptor pathways. Most activity was observed in liver and kidney-based bioassays. These organic filters and their metabolites showed relatively weak ED activity when tested in bioassays measuring estrogen receptor (ER), androgen receptor (AR), thyroid receptor, and steroidogenesis activity. Except for oxybenzone, all activity in the endocrine assays occurred at concentrations greater than the cytotoxic burst. Moreover, except for oxybenzone, plasma concentrations (Cmax) measured in humans were at least 100× lower than bioactive (AC50/ACC) concentrations that produced a response in ToxCast/Tox21 assays. These data are consistent with in vivo animal/human studies showing weak or negligible endocrine activity. In sum, when considered as part of a weight-of-evidence assessment and compared with measured plasma concentrations, the results show these organic UV filters have low intrinsic biological activity and risk of toxicity including endocrine disruption in humans.

UHPLC-MS/HRMS method for the quantitation of pyrithione metabolites in human urine.

Pyrithione glucuronide (PTG) and 2-thiopyridine glucuronide (ThPG) have been reported to be the major urinary metabolites in multiple animal species following administration of zinc pyrithione (ZnPT). However, the formation of these metabolites has never been confirmed in humans. A simple and rugged ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography high resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/HRMS) method was developed and validated for the quantification of PTG and ThPG to investigate human metabolism of pyrithione following topical application of ZnPT as a shampoo. A UHPLC-MS/HRMS method was required due to the matrix interferences that were observed with the typical industry standard HPLC/tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) methodology based on nominal mass triple quadrupole (QQQ) platform approach. Using UPLC-MS/HRMS, both PTG and ThPG were identified in human urine following topical application of ZnPT. The presence of these human urinary metabolites of pyrithione are consistent with findings from earlier studies in multiple animal species and suggest the metabolism of pyrithione is similar amongst those mammalian species studied.

Predictive in silico modeling of emetic potency of liquid cleaning products using an historical in vivo database.

The induction of vomiting by activation of mechanisms protecting the body against ingested toxins is not confined to natural products but can occur in response to manmade medicinal and non-medicinal products such as liquid cleaning products where it is a commonly reported adverse effect of accidental ingestion. The present study examined the utility of an historic database (>30 years old) reporting emetic effects of 98 orally administered liquid cleaning formulations studied in vivo (canine model) to objectively identify the main pro-emetic constituents and to derive a predictive model. Data were analysed by categorizing the formulation constituents into 10 main groups followed by using multivariate correlation, partial least squares and recursive partitioning analysis. Using the ED50 we objectively identified high ionic strength, non-ionic surfactants (alcohol ethoxylate) and alkaline pH as the main pro-emetic factors. Additionally, a mathematical model was developed which allows prediction of the ED50 based on formulation. The limitations of the use of historic data and the model are discussed. The results have practical applications in new product formulation and safety but additionally the principles underpinning this in silico study have wider applicability in demonstrating the potential utility of such archival data in current research contributing to animal replacement.

Evaluation of historic in vivo data to characterise the emetic properties of liquid cleaning products and provide a framework for the development of an in silico predictive algorithm.

Accidental ingestion of household cleaning products frequently results in emesis but the physicochemical properties responsible are not known. To investigate whether data collected during in vivo animal studies performed >30 years ago could provide novel insights into the components responsible, we re-analysed original studies from a total of 74 liquid cleaning formulations. The incidence of emesis was dose-related with ED50 values between 0.012 and 8.4 ml/kg and 57% of formulations having an ED50 ≤ 1 ml/kg. The median latency for emesis was 10.0 min (95% CI, 8-12 min) and number of vomits in 60 min ranged from 1 to 10 (median 2). From the ED100, latency and number of vomits we derived a "vomiting index" (VI) for a subset of 15 formulations which revealed an association between a high VI, a high percentage of non-ionic surfactants/high ionic strength, and a pH of ~10 which we propose are causally linked with the possible mechanism(s) discussed. The limitations of using historic data are discussed but analysis of such data has provided novel insights into the emetic characteristics of this class of products and has informed the development of an in silico model to predict the emetic liability of novel formulations without additional in vivo studies.

Formulation and Artificial Sebum Effects on the Percutaneous Absorption of Zinc Pyrithione through Excised Human Skin.

BACKGROUND: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is deposited on the skin as a fine particulate and must reach microorganisms localized in the stratum corneum and hair follicles in molecular form to exert its broad-spectrum antimicrobial/antifungal activity. Dissolution of ZnPT particles followed by molecular speciation results in the organic portion, i.e. pyrithione, being more susceptible to skin penetration than the inorganic component, i.e. zinc, or the chelate itself, i.e. ZnPT. OBJECTIVES: To further test the hypothesis that ZnPT skin penetration is rate-limited by dissolution and molecular speciation, the effect of different formulations and artificial sebum on the in vitro percutaneous absorption of radiolabel associated with Zn[14C]PT was investigated. METHOD: In vitro penetration of [14C]PT into and through excised human skin was measured following application of Zn[14C]PT prepared as suspensions in distinct vehicles including water-based carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), diluted body wash comprised of surfactants, and castor oil, in the presence and absence of artificial sebum. RESULTS: The steady-state flux and cumulative absorption of Zn[14C]PT increased 4- to 5-fold when deposited from a body wash or castor oil compared to a water-based CMC suspension. Tritiated water flux measured before and after treatment showed that neither the surfactant vehicle nor castor oil significantly altered barrier function versus water alone. An artificial sebum layer on the skin potentiated Zn[14C]PT and 3H2O absorption when dosed from both aqueous formulations, but not from castor oil. CONCLUSION: These data are consistent with the hypothesis that ZnPT percutaneous absorption, as measured by [14C]PT kinetics, is controlled by particle dissolution and molecular speciation.

Determination of narcotic potency using a neurobehavioral assay with larval zebrafish.

BACKGROUND: Identifying chemicals with narcotic potency is an important aspect of assessing the safety of consumer products that may be accidentally ingested. A rapid and efficient assay of narcotic potency is desired for assessing chemicals with such suspected activity. OBJECTIVES: This purpose of this research was to develop a non-mammalian vertebrate, high throughput, neurobehavioral method to assess the narcotic potency of chemicals using larval zebrafish. METHODS: Larval zebrafish were acutely exposed to chemicals beginning at 5 days post fertilization (5 dpf). Locomotor activity, elicited by regular, periodic photostimulation, was quantified using a video tracking apparatus. Narcotic potency was determined as the molar concentration at which photostimulated locomotor activity was reduced by 50% (IC50). Toxicity was assessed based on observations of morbidity or mortality. Recovery was assessed following removal of test material by serial dilution and reassessment of photostimulated behavior 24 hr later (6 dpf). RESULTS: A total of 21 chemicals were assessed. Etomidate, a human narcotic analgesic agent, was used as a reference material. Investigating a series of eleven linear, primary alcohols (C6 to C16), a relationship between narcotic potency and carbon number was observed; narcotic potency increased with carbon number up to C12, consistent with historical studies. For a set of technical grade surfactants, nonionic surfactants (i.e., alcohol ethoxylates) were observed to be narcotic agents while anionic surfactants produced evidence of reduced locomotor activity only in combination with toxicity. Of the solvents evaluated, only ethanol exhibited narcotic activity with an IC50 of 261 mM and was the least potent of the chemicals investigated. Etomidate was the most potent material evaluated with an IC50 of 0.39 µM. CONCLUSIONS: The larval zebrafish neurobehavioral assay provides a method capable of estimating the narcotic potency of chemicals and can identify if toxicity contributes to observed neurobehavioral effects in the test organism.

Side effects from intense pulsed light: Importance of skin pigmentation, fluence level and ultraviolet radiation-A randomized controlled trial.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: Intense pulsed light (IPL) is a mainstream treatment for hair removal. Side effects after IPL are known, but risk factors remain to be investigated. The objective of this study was to assess the contribution of skin pigmentation, fluence level, and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on IPL-induced side effects. METHODS: The study was a blinded, randomized intra-individual controlled trial including 16 healthy subjects with Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST) II-V. Three test areas were each divided into four sites, randomized to a single IPL exposure of 22, 34, 46 J/cm2 or triple stacking of 46 J/cm2 . Areas were subsequently randomized to no UVR or single solar-simulated UVR exposure of 3 Standard Erythema Dose at 30 minutes or 24 hours after IPL. Each area had a corresponding control, resulting in 15 treatment sites. Follow-up visits were scheduled up to 4 weeks after IPL. Outcome measures were: (i) blinded clinical skin reactions; (ii) objectively measured erythema and pigmentation; (iii) pain measured by visual analog scale (VAS); (iv) histology (H&E, Fontana-Masson); and (v) mRNA-expression of p53. RESULTS: Fifteen subjects with FST II-IV completed the protocol. IPL induced a wide range of skin reactions, including erythema (87% of subjects), purpura (27%), blisters (20%), edema (13%), crusting (13%), hyper- (60%), and hypopigmentation (20%). Darker skin pigmentation and increasing IPL fluence were determinants for IPL-induced side effects (P ≤ 0.002), while a single exposure of UVR did not exacerbate side effects (P ≥ 0.180). Clinical findings were confirmed objectively by reflectance spectrometry and qualitatively by histological changes in skin architecture, inflammatory infiltration, and pigmentation. Marker of cellular DNA damage, that is, p53, did not increase after IPL (P ≥ 0.24). CONCLUSIONS: Skin pigmentation and IPL fluence are major determinants of side effects after IPL exposure, while a single exposure to three SED of UVR at 30 minutes or 24 hours after IPL, does not amplify such side effects. Lasers Surg. Med. 49:88-96, 2017. © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Ultraviolet radiation after exposure to a low-fluence IPL home-use device: a randomized clinical trial.

The prevailing advice is to avoid sun exposure after intense pulsed light (IPL) hair removal. However, no systematic evaluation of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) after IPL hair removal exits. Therefore, we investigated the occurrence of side effects in subjects receiving solar-simulated UVR after a low-fluence IPL treatment with a home-use device. Sixteen subjects with Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II-V were enrolled. Three constitutive buttock blocks (4.4 × 6.4 cm) were each subdivided into four sites, randomized to one IPL exposure of 0, 7, 8, or 10 J/cm2 (spectral output 530-1100 nm). Blocks were randomized to no UVR or three standard erythema doses (SEDs) UVR either 30 min or 24 h after IPL. Follow-up visits were 48 h, 1 week, and 4 weeks after IPL. Outcome measures were (i) clinical skin reactions, (ii) reflectance measurements of erythema and pigmentation, and (iii) pain. Subjects with FST II-IV experienced no skin reactions up to 4 weeks after IPL, neither erythema, edema, blisters, crusting, textual, nor pigment changes. Reflectance confirmed no change in erythema and pigmentation (p ≥ 0.090). UVR exposure induced erythema and increased pigmentation. The combination of IPL and UVR induced skin reactions not different to responses from UVR (IPL-UVR vs. UVR, p ≥ 0.164). Pain was generally low (median 1, range 0-4) and correlated positively with fluence and pigmentation (Spearman's rho ≥ 0.394, p < 0.001). One subject with FST V experienced perifollicular hyperpigmentation after IPL and slightly more intense when exposed to UVR. A single UVR exposure of three SEDs either shortly or 1 day after low-fluence IPL causes no amplification of skin responses in constitutive skin of individuals with FST II-IV.

Aggregate exposure modelling of zinc pyrithione in rinse-off personal cleansing products using a person-orientated approach with market share refinement.

Realistic estimates of chemical aggregate exposure are needed to ensure consumer safety. As exposure estimates are a critical part of the equation used to calculate acceptable "safe levels" and conduct quantitative risk assessments, methods are needed to produce realistic exposure estimations. To this end, a probabilistic aggregate exposure model was developed to estimate consumer exposure from several rinse off personal cleansing products containing the anti-dandruff preservative zinc pyrithione. The model incorporates large habits and practices surveys, containing data on frequency of use, amount applied, co-use along with market share, and combines these data at the level of the individual based on subject demographics to better estimate exposure. The daily-applied exposure (i.e., amount applied to the skin) was 3.79 mg/kg/day for the 95th percentile consumer. The estimated internal dose for the 95th percentile exposure ranged from 0.01-1.29 µg/kg/day after accounting for retention following rinsing and dermal penetration of ZnPt. This probabilistic aggregate exposure model can be used in the human safety assessment of ingredients in multiple rinse-off technologies (e.g., shampoo, bar soap, body wash, and liquid hand soap). In addition, this model may be used in other situations where refined exposure assessment is required to support a chemical risk assessment.

Quantitative assessment of growing hair counts, thickness and colour during and after treatments with a low-fluence, home-device laser: a randomized controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: At-home laser and intense pulsed-light hair removal continues to grow in popularity and availability. A relatively limited body of evidence is available on the course of hair growth during and after low-fluence laser usage. OBJECTIVES: To assess growing hair counts, thickness and colour quantitatively during and after cessation of low-fluence laser treatment. METHODS: Thirty-six women with skin phototypes I-IV and light to dark-brown axillary hairs were included. Entire axillary regions were randomized to zero or eight self-administered weekly treatments with an 810-nm home-use laser at 5·0-6·4 J cm(-2). Standardized clinical photographs were taken before each treatment and up to 3 months after the final treatment for computer-aided quantification of growing hair counts, thickness and colour. RESULTS: Thirty-two women completed the study protocol. During sustained treatment, there was a reduction in growing hair that reached a plateau of up to 59%, while remaining hairs became up to 38% thinner and 5% lighter (P < 0·001). The majority of subjects (77%) reported 'moderately' to 'much less hair' in treated than untreated axilla, and assessed remaining hairs as thinner and lighter (≥ 60%). After treatment cessation, hair growth gradually returned to baseline levels, and 3 months after the final treatment the count and thickness of actively growing hair exceeded pretreatment values by 29% and 7%, respectively (P ≤ 0·04). CONCLUSIONS: Sustained usage of low-fluence laser induced a stable reduction of growing hair counts, thickness and colour. The reduction was reversible and hairs regrew beyond baseline values after cessation of usage. Computer-aided image analysis was qualified for quantification of hair counts, thickness and colour after laser epilation.

The evolution of sunscreen products in the United States--a 12-year cross sectional study.

Excessive exposure from ultraviolet (UV) radiation contributes to the development of skin cancers and photoaging. Topical sunscreen products remain one of the most widely used forms of protection for the majority of the public. The objective of this analysis was to examine photoprotection trends (e.g., SPF value) and the degree of UVA I protection from 1997 to 2009 in the United States. Sunscreen products purchased and evaluated in 1997 (N = 59), 2003 (N = 188) and again in 2009 (N = 330), totaling 577, were included in this analysis. Information regarding (1) the SPF value, (2) name and concentration of the active ingredients, (3) type of products (i.e., daily vs. recreational/beach), and (4) claims of UVA protection was recorded and analyzed. In addition, the critical wavelength (CW) of 330 products from 2009 was determined. The results showed an increase in the SPF values of products from 1997 to 2009. The percentage of low SPF products (SPF 4-14) decreased from 27% in 1997 to 6% in 2009. The number of products containing a known UVA-I filter (i.e., avobenzone or zinc oxide) increased from 5% in 1997 to 70% in 2009. Lastly, approximately, 225 (68%) of the products tested in 2009 attained CW > 370 nm. In the past decade, sunscreen products have undergone fundamental improvements, the most significant of which is the breadth of protection against UVA I.

A systematic review of light-based home-use devices for hair removal and considerations on human safety.

BACKGROUND: Hair removal with professional light-based devices is established as an effective, mainstream treatment. The field of optical home-based hair removal is evolving and movement from control by physicians into hands of consumers warrants understanding efficacy and human safety. OBJECTIVES: To systematically review and evaluate the efficacy and human safety of currently available home-based optical hair removal devices. METHODS: A comprehensive Pub Med literature search was conducted which systematically identified publications of relevance. Prospective clinical trials were included whether controlled, uncontrolled or randomized and with a sample size of at least 10 individuals. RESULTS: We identified a total of seven studies: one controlled (CT) and six uncontrolled trials (UCTs). No randomized controlled trials (RCT) were recognized. The best evidence was found for IPL (intense pulsed light) (three devices, one CT, five UCTs) and limited evidence for laser devices (one diode laser, one UCT). Most studies evaluated short-term hair reduction up to 3 and 6 months following light exposure at different body sites. Hair reduction percentages ranged from 6% to 72% after repetitive treatments. The most frequently reported side-effect was erythema, but oedema, blistering, crusting and pigment changes were also reported. Theoretical concerns about ocular damage and paradoxical hair growth have not been reported in any of the studies reviewed. CONCLUSIONS: Available evidence from prospective, uncontrolled clinical trials indicates short-term hair removal efficacy of currently available home-use light-based hair removal devices. Additional controlled trials will be helpful to substantiate the efficacy and to better predict the incidence of adverse events associated with optical home-use hair removal.

Laser and intense pulsed light hair removal technologies: from professional to home use.

Light-based hair removal (LHR) is one of the fastest growing, nonsurgical aesthetic cosmetic procedures in the United States and Europe. A variety of light sources including lasers, e.g. alexandrite laser (755 nm), pulsed diode lasers (800, 810 nm), Nd:YAG laser (1064 nm) and broad-spectrum intense pulsed light (IPL, 590-1200 nm), are available and used widely for such procedures in dermatological/clinical settings under proper supervision. Patient selection and appropriate fluence settings are managed by professionals to maximize efficacy while minimizing adverse events. In the past 5 years, LHR devices have been sold directly to consumers for treatment in the home. In this review, we outline the principles underlying laser and IPL technologies and undertake an evidence-based assessment of the short- and long-term efficacy of the different devices available to the practising dermatologist and discuss the efficacy and human safety implications of home-use devices.

Evaluation of the genotoxicity of the imidazole antifungal climbazole: comparison to published results for other azole compounds.

Climbazole is an imidazole antifungal agent that can provide anti-dandruff benefits when incorporated into a shampoo matrix. A series of genotoxicity studies were performed to support the human safety of this azole antifungal drug. Climbazole was not mutagenic in the Salmonella typhimurium or Escherichia coli Ames assay and did not induce micronuclei in human lymphocytes. In the mouse lymphoma assay (MLA), climbazole was negative (non-mutagenic) with and without metabolic (S9) activation after a 4 h exposure; an increase in small colony mutants was observed without metabolic activation after a 24 h exposure at concentrations of 15 and 17.5 µg/mL. An in vivo mouse micronucleus test was negative up to a maximum tolerated dose (MTD) of 150 mg/kg climbazole administered orally. In the in vivo/in vitro unscheduled DNA synthesis assay, climbazole showed no evidence of DNA damage in the livers of rats at doses up to the MTD of 200 mg/kg orally. A toxicokinetic study was performed in mice with oral administration of [14C]-climbazole (150 mg/kg). Radioactivity (20.42 µg-equiv./g plasma) was detected 15 min after oral administration of [14C]-climbazole, and the peak concentration was 62.96 µg-equiv./g plasma at 8 h after dosing. The measured amounts of radioactivity in plasma, at all sample times from 15 min up to 24 h, exceeded the concentrations that induced increases in mutation frequency after 24 h exposure of mouse lymphoma cells in vitro (15 and 17.5 µg/mL). These observations lend support to the conclusion that climbazole does not present a genotoxic risk in vivo. Furthermore, these data are consistent with the published data for other azole antifungals that work by preventing the synthesis of ergosterol and, as a class, are generally non-genotoxic, except some isolated positive results of questionable significance. Collectively, these data are supportive of the view that climbazole does not present a genotoxic or carcinogenic risk to humans.

Human safety and efficacy of ultraviolet filters and sunscreen products.

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are the active ingredients in sunscreens. The concentration and combination of UV filters determine the efficacy of sunscreens as measured by sun protection factor. The safety of individual UV filters, and, more generally, sunscreen products, is a matter of a few related components: objective toxicologic evaluation, phototoxicologic potential, and human health consequences of using products that may reduce some but not all of the solar UV. Of 16 UV filters approved by the US Food and Drug Administration, 9 are used in different combinations in the most currently marketed sunscreens. Most of these compounds are considered safe and effective alone or in combination with other UV filters based on extensive toxicologic/phototoxicologic evaluations and market history. The benefits from proper use of sunscreens outweigh real or perceived human health concerns, establishing a favorable benefit-to-risk ratio. Future UV filters will require complete human safety evaluations alone and in combination with select benchmark ingredients.

Ultraviolet A radiation: testing and labeling for sunscreen products.

Conceptually, sunscreen products are quite simple. The ultraviolet (UV) filters in these products reduce the "dose" of solar energy to which the skin is exposed. Underlying this empirical notion are many complexities including measures of product efficacy and how to communicate this to consumers. The sun protection factor (SPF) test is and should remain the singular in vivo method for evaluating sunscreens. Additionally, substrate spectrophotometric measure of absorbance/transmittance and the calculation of the summary statistic, such as the critical wavelength (ie, lambda(c)), should be used as a means of evaluating broad-spectrum (ie, UVA) protection. Ideally, the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreen products will be communicated to consumers as an SPF no greater than 50 and a single designation of "broad-spectrum" to indicate long-wavelength UVA protection.

In vitro assessment of the broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection of sunscreen products.

BACKGROUND: There are considerable data to suggest that protection from solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation will reduce the risk of acute and chronic skin damage in humans. Whereas the sun protection factor (SPF) provides an index of protection against erythemally effective solar UV, largely confined to the UVB (290-320 nm) and short-wavelength UVA (320-340 nm) region, there is currently no agreed-upon method to measure broad-spectrum protection against long-wavelength UVA (340-400 nm). OBJECTIVE: The objective of these studies was to assess the potential of in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and subsequent calculation of the "critical wavelength" value as a measure of broad-spectrum UV protection and as a routine, practical procedure for classification of sunscreen products. METHODS: The spectral absorption of 59 commercially available sunscreen products and multiple experimental formulas with one or more UV filters was measured. Sunscreen product, 1 mg/cm(2), was applied to a hydrated synthetic collagen substrate, preirradiated with a solar simulator, and then subjected to UV substrate spectrophotometry. Multiple determinations from 5 independent samples per product were used to calculate the critical wavelength value, defined as the wavelength at which the integral of the spectral absorbance curve reached 90% of the integral from 290 to 400 nm. RESULTS: We found that a recognized long-wave UVA active ingredient such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone is a necessary but insufficient product requirement for achieving the highest proposed broad-spectrum classification, that is, critical wavelength of 370 nm or more. Although SPF and critical wavelength are largely independent of each other, UVA absorbance must increase commensurate with SPF to maintain the same critical wavelength value. Substrate spectrophotometry and the calculation of critical wavelength can readily account for sunscreen photostability by UV preirradiation. Finally, there is also a strong positive relationship between critical wavelength and a currently available in vivo measure of UVA protection. CONCLUSION: Determination of critical wavelength by means of UV substrate spectrophotometry provides a rapid, inexpensive, and reliable measure of broad-spectrum protection, which is largely independent of SPF, yet ensures long-wavelength UVA protection commensurate with SPF. The procedure provides a routine, sensitive means of differentiating and classifying sunscreen products and, importantly, obviates the need to subject volunteers to acute exposures of high-dose, nonterrestrial UV, the health risks of which are still poorly understood.