Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study.

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

Penetration Depth of Propylene Glycol, Sodium Fluorescein and Nile Red into the Skin Using Non-Invasive Two-Photon Excited FLIM.

The stratum corneum (SC) forms a strong barrier against topical drug delivery. Therefore, understanding the penetration depth and pathways into the SC is important for the efficiency of drug delivery and cosmetic safety. In this study, TPT-FLIM (two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging) was applied as a non-invasive optical method for the visualization of skin structure and components to study penetration depths of exemplary substances, like hydrophilic propylene glycol (PG), sodium fluorescein (NaFl) and lipophilic Nile red (NR) into porcine ear skin ex vivo. Non-fluorescent PG was detected indirectly based on the pH-dependent increase in the fluorescence lifetime of SC components. The pH similarity between PG and viable epidermis limited the detection of PG. NaFl reached the viable epidermis, which was also proved by laser scanning microscopy. Tape stripping and confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy were performed additionally to study NaFl, which revealed penetration depths of ≈5 and ≈8 µm, respectively. Lastly, NR did not permeate the SC. We concluded that the amplitude-weighted mean fluorescence lifetime is the most appropriate FLIM parameter to build up penetration profiles. This work is anticipated to provide a non-invasive TPT-FLIM method for studying the penetration of topically applied drugs and cosmetics into the skin.

In vivo Skin Penetration, Radical Protection, and Structural Changes after Topical Application of a Herbal Oil Cream Compared to Topical Calcipotriol in Mild to Moderate Psoriasis.

BACKGROUND: The chronicity of psoriasis often requires continuous topical treatment. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Here, the radical protection of a cream containing various herbal oils was evaluated in vivo by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and its skin penetration by Raman microscopy in intact and barrier-disturbed skin. Changes in skin barrier properties were evaluated after 4 weeks of daily topical application using in vivo laser scanning microscopy (LSM) and transepidermal water loss in 26 healthy volunteers. A randomized, controlled, double-blind, three-arm parallel clinical study evaluated the efficacy of the herbal oil cream compared to a 0.05% calcipotriol-containing cream and to a vehicle cream, in 135 patients with mild to moderate plaque psoriasis with the change in Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) from baseline to week 12 as the primary endpoint. RESULTS: EPR spectroscopy disclosed a significantly higher radical formation in untreated than skin treated with the herbal oil cream (p ≤ 0.05). LSM measurements indicated a protective skin barrier effect in treated compared to untreated skin. In the clinical trial, the topical application of herbal oils showed a significant reduction of the PASI score compared to topical calcipotriol at week 12 (p = 0.016). The mean reduction in PASI was 49% for the herbal oil cream, 38% for calcipotriol, and 55% for the vehicle cream. The percentage of patients, who reached PASI 50 and 75 at any time point, was 55.9% and 29.4% for the herbal oil cream, 47.4% and 15.8% for calcipotriol, and 23 (60.5%) and 13 (34.2%) for the vehicle, respectively (p > 0.05). The vehicle, originally designed as a placebo, contained a main ingredient of the herbal oil cream and therefore showed corresponding results. CONCLUSION: The herbal oil cream demonstrated effectiveness in the treatment of mild to moderate plaque psoriasis.

Eco-friendly sunscreen formulation based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin increases the antioxidant capacity and the light scattering activity in the visible light.

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations. Two cream formulations (F1, F2) which differ in the ingredient PEG75 Lanolin (F2), have been characterized for their radical protection factor (RPF) and their optical properties in vitro using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and UV/VIS spectrometry. The RPF for PEG-75 Lanolin was also determined. Furthermore, their radical protection properties were analyzed on porcine skin ex vivo after visible light irradiation by EPR. The structure of each formulation in the skin surface was determined by reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. The addition of lanolin increased the reflectance and reduced the transmittance for visible light, improving the scattering drastically. Besides, the antioxidant capacity was also increased for F2, something unpublished until now. F1 presented a lower scattering provided by starches. The sunscreens showed high scattering properties and antioxidant capacity, especially for F2, which presented the lowest radical formation in the skin model. These results are consistent with the RPF measurements where F2 has a higher RPF value (193 ± 3 × 1014 radicals/mg) than F1 (155 ± 4 × 1014 radicals/mg) and for PEG-75 Lanolin (37 ± 1 × 1014 radicals/mg). The combination of starches and PEG-75 Lanolin is the first solution to provide both, light scattering and antioxidant capacity, in sunscreens.

Noninvasive measurement of the 308 nm LED-based UVB protection factor of sunscreens.

The current method for determining the sun protection factor (SPF) requires erythema formation. Noninvasive alternatives have recently been suggested by several groups. Our group previously developed a functional sensor based on diffuse reflectance measurements with one UVB LED, which was previously evaluated on pig ear skin. Here we present the results of a systematic in vivo study using 12 sunscreens on 10 volunteers (skin types [ST] I-III). The relationship of the UVB-LED reflectance of unprotected skin and melanin index was determined for each ST. The spatial variation of the reflectance signal of different positions was analyzed and seems to be mainly influenced by sample inhomogeneity except for high-protection factors (PFs) where signal levels are close to detection noise. Despite the low-signal levels, a correlation of the measured LED-based UVB PF with SPF reference values from test institutes with R2 = 0.57 is obtained, suggesting a strong relationship of SPF and LED-based UVB-PF. Measured PFs tend to be lower for increasing skin pigmentation. The sensor design seems to be suitable for investigations where a fast measurement of relative changes of PFs, such as due to inhomogeneous application, bathing and sweating, is of interest.

In vivo sun protection factor and UVA protection factor determination using (hybrid) diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and a multi-lambda-LED light source.

The sun protection factor (SPF) values are currently determined using an invasive procedure, in which the volunteers are irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light. Non-invasive approaches based on hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) have shown a good correlation with conventional SPF testing. Here, we present a novel compact and adjustable DRS test system. The in vivo measurements were performed using a multi-lambda-LED light source and an 84-channel imaging spectrograph with a fiber optic probe for detection. A transmission spectrum was calculated based on the reflectance measured with sunscreen and the reflectance measured without sunscreen. The preexposure in vitro spectrum was fitted to the in vivo spectrum. Each of the 11 test products was investigated on 10 volunteers. The SPF and UVA-PF values obtained by this new approach were compared with in vivo SPF results determined by certified test institutes. A correlation coefficient R2 = 0.86 for SPF, and R2 = 0.92 for UVA-PF were calculated. Having examined various approaches to apply the HDRS principle, the method we present was found to produce valid and reproducible results, suggesting that the multi-lambda-LED device is suitable for in-vivo SPF testing based on the HDRS principle as well as for in-vivo UVA-PF measurements.

Electrohydrodynamic spray applicator for homogenous application and reduced overspray of sunscreen.

BACKGROUND: The recommended amount of sunscreen by hand application (2 mg/cm2 ) is in reality not achieved, which decreases the homogeneity and thereby the effective sun protection factor (SPF). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The homogeneity of sunscreen applied by a newly developed spray applicator using an electrostatically charged aerosol, for which a hand rubbing of the formulation is not necessary, is evaluated. In vivo experiments were performed on the volar forearms of human volunteers using the spray applicator compared to the standardized hand application according to ISO 24444. RESULTS: The distribution homogeneity was assessed qualitatively using in vivo laser scanning microscopy and quantitatively by absorption spectroscopy after tape stripping and by the standard deviation of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements for non-invasive SPF determination below the minimal erythemal dose, which showed a significantly higher homogeneity by 20.9% after spray application compared to hand application. CONCLUSION: Non-invasive SPF determination of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements was proven to be a suitable method for the non-invasive determination of the sunscreen distribution homogeneity. Electrostatically charged spray application increased the sunscreen distribution homogeneity on the skin and can reduce the amount of overspray.

Kinetics of the carotenoid concentration degradation of smoothies and their influence on the antioxidant status of the human skin in vivo during 8 weeks of daily consumption.

The antioxidant status of the skin shows constant alterations depending on nutrition and other lifestyle factors. Carotenoids can serve as marker substances for the antioxidant status of the epidermis in vivo. The carotenoid concentration of 2 homemade green smoothies and a commercial green smoothie, all containing fruits and vegetables, was assessed by resonance Raman spectroscopy. Furthermore, a pilot study was conducted to investigate changes of the cutaneous carotenoid concentration of 20 healthy volunteers under the daily intake of either a homemade smoothie or the commercial smoothie in vivo using reflectance spectroscopy. We hypothesized that higher carotenoid concentrations in the homemade smoothies compared to those of the commercial one would lead to a faster increase of the cutaneous carotenoid concentration in healthy volunteers. The measurements of the homemade smoothies showed notably higher initial carotenoid concentrations (7.6 ±0.8)*10-4arbitrary units (a.u.) (smoothie A) and (10.4 ± 0.6)*10-4 a.u. (smoothie B) compared to the commercial smoothie (5.8 ± 0.2)*10-4 a.u. Nevertheless, the commercial smoothie showed a higher stability of carotenoids over 24 hours. 8 weeks after daily consumption of the homemade smoothies, volunteers showed an insignificant increase of cutaneous carotenoids from (4.5 ± 0.1)*10-4 a.u. at baseline to (4.8 ± 0.3)*10-4 a.u. (means ± standard error of the mean). The volunteers consuming the commercial smoothie showed an insignificant increase of cutaneous carotenoids from (4.3 ± 0.2)*10-4 a.u. to (4.7 ± 0.2)*10-4 a.u. after 8 weeks. The observed increase of cutaneous carotenoid concentrations could be classified as a strong tendency. Fresh homemade smoothies can exhibit a higher carotenoid concentration compared to commercial smoothies but need to be consumed immediately after preparation.

High-energy visible light at ambient doses and intensities induces oxidative stress of skin-Protective effects of the antioxidant and Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A in vitro and in vivo.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation causes skin damage through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). While UV filters effectively reduce UV-induced ROS, they cannot prevent VIS-induced (400-760 nm) oxidative stress. Therefore, potent antioxidants are needed as additives to sunscreen products. METHODS: We investigated VIS-induced ROS formation and the photoprotective effects of the Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A (LicA). RESULTS: Visible spectrum of 400-500 nm dose-dependently induced ROS in cultured human fibroblasts at doses equivalent to 1 hour of sunshine on a sunny summer day (150 J/cm2 ). A pretreatment for 24 hours with 1 µmol/L LicA reduced ROS formation to the level of unirradiated cells while UV filters alone were ineffective, even at SPF50+. In vivo, topical treatment with a LicA-containing SPF50 + formulation significantly prevented the depletion of intradermal carotenoids by VIS irradiation while SPF50 + control did not protect. CONCLUSION: LicA may be a useful additive antioxidant for sunscreens.

Influence of polyester spacer fabric, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone on microclimatic and morphologic physiologic skin parameters in vivo.

BACKGROUND: Skin diseases can develop upon disadvantageous microclimate in relation to skin contact with textiles of supporting devices. Increased temperature, moisture, mechanical fracture, pressure, and inflammatory processes often occur mutually and enhance each other in their adverse effects. Therefore, the early prevention of skin irritations by improvement of microclimatic properties of skin in contact with supporting devices is important. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In this study, the microclimate under occlusion with polyester, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone textiles, used for supporting devices, was analyzed by determining several characteristic physiologic skin parameters in vivo, including temperature, moisture, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is achieved by comparing a miniaturized in vivo detection device with several established optical and sensory methods in vivo. RESULTS: A highly significant TEWL decrease was found after polyester, chloroprene rubber, and silicone application. The application of all materials showed highly significant decrease in skin surface temperature, with chloroprene rubber showing the lowest. Similarly, all materials showed highly significant increase in relative moisture, where the highest increase was found for chloroprene rubber and silicone and the lowest increase for cotton. The cutaneous carotenoid concentration of chloroprene rubber, silicone, and polyester decreased. A manipulation of the surface structure of the stratum corneum was recognized for all materials except for cotton by laser scanning microscopy. CONCLUSION: The skin parameters temperature, relative moisture, antioxidant status, and TEWL can effectively characterize the microclimatic environment during occlusion with medical supporting materials. These parameters could potentially be used to develop standardized testing procedures for material evaluation.

Evaluation of detection distance-dependent reflectance spectroscopy for the determination of the sun protection factor using pig ear skin.

Determination of sun protection factors (SPFs) is currently an invasive method, which is based on erythema formation (phototest). Here we describe an optical setup and measurement methodology for the determination of SPFs based on diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, which measures UV-reflectance spectra at 4 distances from the point of illumination. Due to a high spatial variation of the reflectance data, most likely due to inhomogeneities of the sunscreen distribution, data of 50 measurement positions are averaged. A dependence of the measured SPF on detection distance is significant for 3 sunscreens, while being inconclusive for 2 sunscreens due to high inter-sample variations. Using pig ear skin samples (n=6), the obtained SPF of 5 different commercial sunscreens corresponds to the SPF values of certified test institutes in 3 cases and is lower for 2 sunscreens of the same manufacturer, suggesting a formulation specific reason for the discrepancy. The results demonstrate that the measurement can be performed with a UV dose below the minimal erythema dose. We conclude the method may be considered as a potential noninvasive in vivo alternative to the invasive in vivo phototest, but further tests on different sunscreen formulations are still necessary.

In vivo characterization of structural changes after topical application of glucocorticoids in healthy human skin.

Topical glucocorticoids (GC) are known to induce changes in human skin with the potential to develop skin atrophy. Here, atrophogenic effects and subsequent structural changes in the skin after topical application of GC were investigated in vivo. Sixteen healthy volunteers were topically treated daily on the forearms with clobetasol propionate, betamethasone dipropionate, and the petrolatum vehicle for 4 weeks. All treated skin areas and a nontreated control area were examined by ultrasound, optical coherence tomography, confocal laser scanning microscopy, multiphoton tomography (MPT), and resonance Raman spectroscopy at baseline 1 day after last application and 1 week after last application. Investigated parameters included stratum corneum thickness, epidermal, and full skin thickness, keratinocyte size and density, keratinocyte nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio, skin surface classification, relative collagen and elastin signal intensity, second-harmonic generation-to-autofluorescence aging index of dermis (SAAID), and the antioxidant status of the skin. A reduction in epidermal and dermal skin thickness was observed in GC treated as well as in vehicle-treated and untreated skin areas on the volar forearm. MPT analysis showed an increased epidermal cell density and reduced cell size and nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio and a significant increase of SAAID after GC treatment indicating a restructuring or compression of collagen fibers clinically being observed as atrophic changes.

Influences of Orally Taken Carotenoid-Rich Curly Kale Extract on Collagen I/Elastin Index of the Skin.

Two differently designed, spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy-based scanners and two-photon tomography were used for noninvasive in vivo determination of cutaneous carotenoids, and collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis, respectively, in the skin of 29 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 56 years of age. The volunteers received a supplement in the form of a carotenoid-rich natural curly kale extract containing 1650 µg of carotenoids in total (three capsules of 550 µg), once a day. Measurements were taken before, after 5 months and after 10 months of daily supplementation. The results showed significantly increased values for the cutaneous carotenoids and the collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis 5 and 10 months after the beginning of the study. The obtained results show that a natural carotenoid-rich extract could prevent the aging-related collagen I degradation in the dermis and improve the extracellular matrix.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range.

BACKGROUND/AIM: The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range. METHODS: The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application. RESULTS: Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points. CONCLUSION: A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

Investigation of the cutaneous penetration behavior of dexamethasone loaded to nano-sized lipid particles by EPR spectroscopy, and confocal Raman and laser scanning microscopy.

An improvement of the penetration efficiency combined with the controlled release of actives in the skin can facilitate the medical treatment of skin diseases immensely. Dexamethasone (Dx), a synthetic glucocorticoid, is frequently used for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. To investigate the penetration of nano-sized lipid particles (NLP) loaded with Dx in comparison to a commercially available base cream, different techniques were applied. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was used to monitor the penetration of Dx, which was covalently labeled with the spin probe 3-(Carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy (PCA). The penetration into hair follicles was studied using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) with curcumin-loaded NLP. The penetration of the vehicle was followed by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM). Penetration studies using excised porcine skin revealed a more than twofold higher penetration efficiency for DxPCA into the stratum corneum (SC) after 24h incubation compared to 4h incubation when loaded to the NLP, whereas when applied in the base cream, almost no further penetration was observed beyond 4h. The distribution of DxPCA within the SC was investigated by consecutive tape stripping. The release of DxPCA from the base cream after 24h in deeper SC layers and the viable epidermis was shown by EPR. For NLP, no release from the carrier was observed, although DxPCA was detectable in the skin after the complete SC was removed. This phenomenon can be explained by the penetration of the NLP into the hair follicles. However, penetration profiles measured by CRM indicate that NLP did not penetrate as deeply into the SC as the base cream formulation. In conclusion, NLP can improve the accumulation of Dx in the skin and provide a reservoir within the SC and in the follicular infundibula.

Comparison of different cutaneous carotenoid sensors and influence of age, skin type, and kinetic changes subsequent to intake of a vegetable extract.

In the last decade, cutaneous carotenoid measurements have become increasingly popular, as carotenoids were found to be a biomarker of nutrition rich in fruits and vegetables, permitting monitoring of the influence of various stress factors. For such measurements, in addition to the specific and selective resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS), newly developed low expensive small and mobile sensors that are based on spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy (SRRS) are used for cutaneous carotenoid measurements. Human volunteers of different age exhibiting skin types I to III were investigated using RRS and two SRRS-based sensors to determine the influence of these parameters on the measuring results. In two studies on volunteers of either the same age or skin type, however, the respective other parameter being varied and no significant influences of age or skin type could be detected. Furthermore, the kinetic changes resulting from the intake and discontinued intake of a vegetable extract rich in carotenoids showed a good correlation among the three sensors and with the detected blood carotenoids. This illustrates that the SRRS-based sensors and RRS device provide reliable cutaneous carotenoid values independent of age and skin types I to III of the volunteers.

In vivo/ex vivo targeting of Langerhans cells after topical application of the immune response modifier TMX-202: confocal Raman microscopy and histology analysis.

The increased ability of TMX-202 (derivative of imiquimod) to penetrate the intact stratum corneum (SC) and the follicular orifices of porcine ear skin was shown ex vivo using confocal Raman microscopy and laser scanning microscopy. Moreover, to assess whether TMX-202 is able to reach the immune cells, Langerhans cells extracted from pretreated human skin were investigated ex vivo using confocal Raman microscopy combined with multivariate statistical methods. Tracking the Raman peak of dimethyl sulfoxide centered at 690 cm(−1), the absorption of TMX-202 containing formulation by Langerhans cells was shown. To answer the question whether the TMX-202 active ingredient is able to reach Langerhans cells, the attraction of immune cells to TMX-202 containing formulation treated skin was measured in the in vivo rodent model Mastomys coucha. The results show that TMX-202 active ingredient is able to reach Langerhans cells after penetrating through the intact skin and subsequently attract immune cells. Both the intercellular/transcellular as well as the follicular pathways allow the penetration through the intact barrier of the SC.

Prevention of Cutaneous Penetration and CD1c+ Uptake of Pollen Allergens by a Barrier-Enhancing Formulation.

Recent studies have shown that pollen proteins can penetrate the impaired skin barrier of atopic patients and exacerbate their disease. In the presented study the effect of a topically applied barrier-enhancing formulation was investigated for its preventive effect on the uptake of pollen allergens into CD1c+ epidermal cells. The pollen proteins were fluorescence labelled and applied on barrier-disrupted excised human skin. CD1c+ cells were selected after magnetic cell sorting and analysed using laser scanning microscopy. In untreated disrupted skin, 81% of the CD1c+ cells contained the fluorescence-labelled pollen allergens. In formulation-pretreated skin only 12% of the CD1c+ cells showed an uptake of pollen allergens. These results encourage the treatment of atopic patients with barrier-enhancing formulations to reduce the impact of pollen on air-exposed skin areas and hence the exacerbation of cutaneous symptoms.

Investigation of Model Sunscreen Formulations Comparing the Sun Protection Factor, the Universal Sun Protection Factor and the Radical Formation Ratio.

In view of globally rising skin cancer rates and harmful effects exerted by sunlight throughout the ultraviolet, visible and infrared ranges, an objective, safe and comprehensive method for determining sunscreen efficacy is required in order to warrant safe sun exposure. In this study, the influence of characteristic active ingredients (chemical filters, physical filters and antioxidants) on different sunscreen indicators, including the universal sun protection factor and the radical formation ratio, was determined and compared to their influence on sun protection factor values. Spectroscopic universal sun protection factor measurements were conducted ex vivo by analyzing tape strips taken from human skin, and radical formation ratio determination was performed via electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy using porcine ear skin ex vivo. The sun protection factor determination was conducted according to ISO standards (ISO 24444:2010). It was shown that chemical filters provide a protective effect which was measurable by all methods examined (spectroscopy, electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy and erythema formation). Physical filters, when used as single active ingredients, increased protective values in universal sun protection factor and sun protection factor measurements but exhibited no significant effect on universal sun protection factor measurements when used in combination with chemical filters or antioxidants. Antioxidants were shown to increase sun protection factor values. Radical formation ratio values were shown to be influenced merely by chemical filters, leading to the conclusion that the universal sun protection factor is the most suitable efficacy indicator for the ultraviolet range.

Radical protection by differently composed creams in the UV/VIS and IR spectral ranges.

Modern sunscreens are well suited to provide sufficient protection in the UV range because the filter substances absorb or scatter UV radiation. Although up to 50% of radicals are formed in the visible and infrared spectral range during solar radiation protection strategies are not provided in this range. Previous investigations of commercially available products have shown that in addition to physical filters, antioxidants (AO) are necessary to provide protective effects in the infrared range by neutralizing already formed radicals. In this study, the efficacy of filter substances and AO to reduce radical formation in both spectral ranges was investigated after UV/VIS or IR irradiation. Optical properties and radical protection were determined for the investigated creams. It was found that organic UV filters lower radical formation in the UV/VIS range to 35% compared to untreated skin, independent of the presence of AO. Further reduction to 14% was reached by addition of 2% physical filters, whereas physical filters alone were ineffective in the UV/VIS range due to the low concentration. In contrast, this filter type reduced radical formation in the IR range significantly to 65%; similar effects were aroused after application of AO. Sunscreens which contain organic UV filters, physical filters and AO ensure protection in the complete solar spectrum.