Paleoproteomic identification of the species used in fourteenth century gut-skin garments from the archaeological site of Nuulliit, Greenland.

Until recently, the identification of the species of origin for skin and fur materials used in the production of archaeological clothing has been based on the analysis of macro- and microscopic morphological features and on the traditional knowledge of Indigenous groups. This approach, however, is not always applicable due to the deterioration of the archaeological objects. Paleoproteomics was used as an alternative approach to identify the species of origin of fifteen samples of various tissues from approximately 600-year-old garments found in Nuulliit, northern Greenland. Proteomics revealed that a limited group of marine and terrestrial mammals were used for clothing production. The results obtained from the analysis of multiple types of clothing and elements, such as sinew thread and gut skin, suggest that their applications were based on their properties. When conclusive assignment of a sample to a species via proteomics was not possible, the observation by transmitted light microscopy of feather and hair micromorphology, if not affected by diagenesis, was used to improve the identification. The proteomic characterization of animal materials used for clothing production in the Nuulliit archaeological context provides an insight into the practical knowledge and the strategies adopted by the local Indigenous community to exploit natural resources.

Uniforme e a imagem da enfermeira formada pela Escola de Enfermeiras Rachel Haddock Lobo / Uniform and the image of the nurse graduated from the Rachel Haddock Lobo Nursing School / Uniforme e imagen de la enfermera egresada de la Escuela de Enfermería Rachel Haddock Lobo

Objetivo: analisar os efeitos simbólicos dos uniformes utilizados pelas alunas da Escola de Enfermeiras Rachel Haddock Lobo. Método: estudo histórico-social, com corpus documental constituído de fontes orais, escritas e fotográficas que retratam os uniformes, no período de 1948 a 1951, que corresponde a inauguração da escola até a formação da primeira turma. A análise dos dados fundamentou-se nos conceitos de Pierre Bourdieu. Resultados: as alunas utilizaram três tipos de uniformes: hospitalar, saúde pública e de enfermeira. Durante a formação, rituais como a recepção da touca e a diplomação institucionalizaram e solenizaram o uso do uniforme. As professoras utilizavam uniformes de sua escola de formação. Conclusão: os uniformes foram utilizados como estratégia desenvolvida pelas enfermeiras da Escola para o fortalecimento da imagem da enfermeira de alto padrão na sociedade(AU)

Objective: to analyze the symbolic effects of the uniforms worn by students at the Rachel Haddock Lobo Nursing School. Method: historical-social study, with a documentary corpus consisting of oral, written and photographic sources that portray uniforms, from 1948 to 1951, which corresponds to the inauguration of the school until the formation of the first class. Data analysis was based on Pierre Bourdieu's concepts. Results: the students wore three types of uniforms: hospital, public health and nurse. During training, rituals such as receiving the cap and receiving diplomas institutionalized and solemnized the use of the uniform. The professors wore uniforms from their training school. Conclusion: uniforms were used as a strategy developed by the School's nurses to strengthen the image of high-standard nurses in society(AU)

Objetivo: analizar los efectos simbólicos de los uniformes usados por las alumnas de la Escuela de Enfermería Rachel Haddock Lobo. Método: estudio histórico-social, con un corpus documental compuesto por fuentes orales, escritas y fotográficas que retratan uniformes, desde 1948 a 1951, que corresponde desde la inauguración del colegio hasta la formación del primer grupo. El análisis de los datos se basó en los conceptos de Pierre Bourdieu. Resultados: las alumnas usaron tres tipos de uniforme: hospitalario, de salud pública y de enfermera. Durante la formación, rituales como recibir la cofia y el diploma institucionalizaron y solemnizaron el uso del uniforme. Las profesoras usaban uniformes de su escuela de formación. Conclusión: los uniformes fueron utilizados como una estrategia desarrollada por las enfermeras de la Escuela para fortalecer la imagen de la enfermería de alto estándar en la sociedad(AU)

Signos do vestuário de enfermeira na formatura / Señales de ropa de enfermería en la formatura / Signs of the nurse's clothing at graduation

Resumo Objetivo Analisar os uniformes usados na cerimônia de formatura de enfermeiras e seus significados para a identidade profissional. Método Estudou-se uma escola de enfermagem de Minas Gerais, no período de 1947 até 1964. Pesquisa qualitativa, histórico-social, mediante a qual foram analisados documentos escritos, fotográficos e orais, considerando as bases conceituais de identidade profissional, do sociólogo Claude Dubar, e de vestuário e seus significados simbólicos, de Roland Barthes. Resultados O uniforme das enfermeiras, usado na formatura, possuía signos de identidade institucional e profissional. Foi constituído pelo clássico vestido branco, com touca e outros acessórios. Conclusões e implicações para a prática O uniforme de formatura de enfermeiras correspondeu aos avanços da moda e da cientificidade, configurando-se uma marca na construção do papel e consolidação da identidade profissional, contribuindo para a identificação de uma categoria profissional em formação.

Resumen Objetivo Analizar los uniformes utilizados en la ceremonia de graduación de enfermeras y sus significados para la identidad profesional. Método Se estudió una escuela de enfermería de Minas Gerais, relativo al periodo de 1947 a 1964. Investigación cualitativa, histórico-social, en la que se analizaron documentos escritos, fotográficos y orales, considerando las bases conceptuales de la identidad profesional, del sociólogo Claude Dubar, y de vestuario y sus significados simbólicos, de Roland Barthes. Resultados El uniforme de las enfermeras, utilizado en la graduación, presentaba señales de identidad institucional y profesional. Consistía en el clásico vestido blanco, con gorra y otros complementos. Conclusiones e implicaciones para la práctica El uniforme de graduación de enfermeras correspondió a los avances de moda y cientificidad, convirtiéndose en una marca en la construcción y consolidación de la identidad profesional, contribuyendo para la identificación de una categoría profesional en formación.

Abstract Objective to analyze the uniforms used in the graduation ceremony of nurses and their meanings for professional identity. Method A nursing school in Minas Gerais was studied from the period of 1947 to 1964. Qualitative, social-historical research, through which written, photographic and oral documents were analyzed, considering the conceptual bases of professional identity, by the sociologist Claude Dubar, and of clothing and its symbolic meanings, by Roland Barthes. Results The nurses' uniform used at graduation had institutional and professional identity signs. It consisted of the classic white dress, with a cap and other accessories. Conclusions and implications for practice The nurse's graduation uniform corresponded to the advances in fashion and scientificity, becoming a mark in the construction of the role and a consolidation of professional identity, contributing to the identification of a professional category in training.

Ballistic protective properties of material representative of English civil war buff-coats and clothing.

One type of clothing system used in the English Civil War, more common amongst cavalrymen than infantrymen, was the linen shirt, wool waistcoat and buff-coat. Ballistic testing was conducted to estimate the velocity at which 50% of 12-bore lead spherical projectiles (V50) would be expected to perforate this clothing system when mounted on gelatine (a tissue simulant used in wound ballistic studies). An estimated six-shot V50 for the clothing system was calculated as 102 m/s. The distance at which the projectile would have decelerated from the muzzle of the weapon to this velocity in free flight was triple the recognised effective range of weapons of the era suggesting that the clothing system would provide limited protection for the wearer. The estimated V50 was also compared with recorded bounce-and-roll data; this suggested that the clothing system could provide some protection to the wearer from ricochets. Finally, potential wounding behind the clothing system was investigated; the results compared favourably with seventeenth century medical writings.

Forensic Investigation of a Shawl Linked to the "Jack the Ripper" Murders.

A set of historic murders, known as the "Jack the Ripper murders," started in London in August 1888. The killer's identity has remained a mystery to date. Here, we describe the investigation of, to our knowledge, the only remaining physical evidence linked to these murders, recovered from one of the victims at the scene of the crime. We applied novel, minimally destructive techniques for sample recovery from forensically relevant stains on the evidence and separated single cells linked to the suspect, followed by phenotypic analysis. The mtDNA profiles of both the victim and the suspect matched the corresponding reference samples, fortifying the link of the evidence to the crime scene. Genomic DNA from single cells recovered from the evidence was amplified, and the phenotypic information acquired matched the only witness statement regarded as reliable. To our knowledge, this is the most advanced study to date regarding this case.

Significados da construção da aparência e processo de envelhecimento entre idosas brasileiras e espanholas / Meanings of the construction of appearance and the aging process among Brazilian and Spanish elderly women / Significados de la construcción de la apariencia y proceso de envejecimiento entre mujeres mayores de Brasil y España

O artigo apresenta uma caracterização, e comparação, de significados presentes na aparência e envelhecimento de mulheres idosas do Brasil e da Espanha. A construção da aparência apresentou-se como processo dinâmico realizado ao longo da vida. Os modos de compor e significar a apresentação pessoal estiveram relacionados ao envolvimento com diversos agentes e instituições sociais. Os principais significados construídos e transmitidos foram decência, naturalidade e feminilidade.

The article presents a characterization and comparison of meanings present in the appearance and aging of elderly women from Brazil and Spain. The construction of appearance proved to be a dynamic process performed throughout life. The ways of composing and meaning personal presentation were related to the involvement with several social agents and institutions. The main meanings constructed and transmitted were decency, naturalness, and femininity.

El artículo presenta una caracterización y comparación de significados presentes en la apariencia y envejecimiento de mujeres mayores de Brasil y España. La construcción de la apariencia se presentó como proceso dinámico realizado a lo largo de la vida. Las maneras de componer y significar la presentación personal estuvieron relacionadas al envolvimiento con diversos agentes e instituciones sociales. Los principales significados construidos y propagados fueron la decencia, naturalidad y feminidad.

A new multi analytical approach for the identification of synthetic and natural dyes mixtures. The case of orcein-mauveine mixture in a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman of nineteenth century.

In this paper, the application of a multi-analytical approach for the characterisation of synthetic and natural dyes in a historical textile is presented. The work is focused on a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman, dating from about 1865-1870. Firstly, SERS on fibre was performed, in order to individuate the classes of dyes employed. The SERS spectra suggested the presence of two main dyes: mauveine and orcein. In order to confirm these preliminary results, two different extraction protocols were applied. The extracts obtained were analysed by ESI-MS, MALDI-ToF and UHPCL-MS analyses, confirming the SERS results. In particular, the application of the ammonia mild extraction technique allowed to selectively extract the phenoxazonic dyes, separating them already in the extraction step from the synthetic ones. Thanks to this multi-analytical approach, this dress could be considered as one of the first examples of employment of synthetic dyes in association with natural ones.

The Iceman's lithic toolkit: Raw material, technology, typology and use.

The Tyrolean Iceman, a 5,300-year-old glacier mummy recovered at the Tisenjoch (South Tyrol, Italy) together with his clothes and personal equipment, represents a unique opportunity for prehistoric research. The present work examines the Iceman's tools which are made from chert or are related to chert working - dagger, two arrowheads, endscraper, borer, small flake and antler retoucher - and considers also the arrowhead still embedded in the shoulder of the mummy. The interdisciplinary results achieved by study of the lithic raw material, technology, use-wear analysis, CT analysis and typology all add new information to Ötzi's individual history and his last days, and allow insights into the way of life of Alpine Copper Age communities. The chert raw material of the small assemblage originates from at least three different areas of provenance in the Southalpine region. One, or possibly two, sources derive from outcrops in the Trentino, specifically the Non Valley. Such variability suggests an extensive provisioning network, not at all limited to the Lessini mountains, which was able to reach the local communities. The Iceman's toolkit displays typological characteristics of the Northern Italian tradition, but also comprises features typical of the Swiss Horgen culture, which will come as no surprise in the toolkit of a man who lived in a territory where transalpine contacts would have been of great importance. Ötzi was not a flintknapper, but he was able to resharpen his tools with a medium to good level of skill. Wear traces reveal that he was a right-hander. Most instruments in the toolkit had reached their final stage of usability, displaying extensive usage, mostly from plant working, resharpenings and breaks. Evidently Ötzi had not had any access to chert for quite some time, which must have been problematic during his last hectic days, preventing him from repairing and integrating his weapons, in particular his arrows. Freshly modified blade tools without any wear suggest planned work which he never carried out, possibly prevented by the events which made him return to the mountains where he was killed by a Southern Alpine archer.

Technological complexity and the global dispersal of modern humans.

Anatomically modern humans (Homo sapiens) dispersed out of Africa roughly 120,000 years ago and again after 75,000 years ago. The early dispersal was geographically restricted to the Arabian Peninsula, Levant, and possibly parts of southern Asia. The later dispersal was ultimately global in scope, including areas not previously occupied by Homo. One explanation for the contrast between the two out-of-Africa dispersals is that the modern humans who expanded into Eurasia 120,000 years ago lacked the functionally and structurally complex technology of recent hunter-gatherers. This technology, which includes, for example, mechanical projectiles, snares and traps, and sewn clothing, provides not only expanded dietary breadth and increased rates of foraging efficiency and success in places where plant and animal productivity is low, but protection from cold weather in places where winter temperatures are low. The absence of complex technology before 75,000 years ago also may explain why modern humans in the Levant did not develop sedentary settlements and agriculture 120,000 years ago (i.e., during the Last Interglacial).

Forensic Features of Clothing-Related Deaths: Historical and Cultural Aspects.

Clothing may both cause death and contribute to ongoing lethal mechanisms by a variety of quite disparate mechanisms. The manner of death may be accidental, suicidal, or homicidal. Accidental deaths include burning from clothing catching on fire, strangulation from clothing tangling in vehicle wheels or exposed machinery, and drowning. Entanglement of clothing in machinery may also result in significant injuries, which are not uncommon in farming communities. Excessive clothing, or its absence, may significantly alter body temperature, and hanging from clothing is a feature in the young or in mentally or physically handicapped adults, or in adults who are intoxicated with alcohol or drugs. In previous years, potentially lethal amounts of arsenic were present in clothing and accessories from dyes. Clothing may also be used to form nooses or to pad ropes in suicides and may be used in cases of strangulation, suffocation, or choking in homicides. The contribution of clothing to mortality has changed over the years with changes in fashions and in manufacturing techniques. Geographical differences in clothing-related deaths persist because of variable social and cultural practices and legislative frameworks.

She Wears the Pants: The Reform Dress as Technology in Nineteenth-Century America.

This article examines the American dress-reform movement, detailing the ways in which reformers conceptualized clothing as a social and bodily technology. In the mid-nineteenth century, women began making and wearing the "reform dress"-a costume consisting of pants and shortened, lightweight skirts-as an alternative to burdensome feminine fashions. When ridiculed in public for wearing overtly masculine garments, dress reformers insisted their clothing was healthful, functional, and natural. This article discusses women's use of medical science and technical knowledge in their rejection of fashion, promotion of sexual equality, and efforts to change mainstream clothing practices. When approached from a technological perspective, the reform dress reveals broader tensions in an industrializing American society, such as changing gender relations and new understandings of the relationship between humans and technology.

Vestuário de alunas de uma escola de enfermagem brasileira: relações com a identidade profissional (1947-1965) / Student uniforms in a Brazilian nursing school: its relation with professional identity (1947-1965) / Vestuario de las alumnas en una escuela de enfermería brasileña: las relaciones con la identidad profesional (1947-1965)

Objetivos: Descrever o vestuário/uniforme usado pelas alunas da Escola de Enfermagem Hermantina Beraldo (EEHB) e analisar sua relação com a construção da identidade profissional da enfermeira diplomada nessa escola de 1947-1965. Método: Estudo histórico-social. Foram utilizadas fontes escritas, iconográficas e orais de ex-alunas e ex-professoras da escola. Os autores que abordam a identidade profissional e o vestuário subsidia ram a análise dos dados. Resultados: Emergiu a categoria: Vestuário/uniforme na EEHB nos primeiros anos de seu funcionamento: papel na construção da identidade profissional (1947-1964). Tanto o uniforme hospitalar como o de saúde pública das alunas, tinham como principais características cores e acessórios semelhantes aos utilizados na escola padrão, a Escola de Enfermagem Anna Nery da Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro. Conclusões: O uniforme na EEHB acompanhava simbolicamente a imagem da enfermeira diplomada naquele período com diferenças que permitiam a construção de uma identidade institucional, social e profissional das enfermeiras formadas nesta escola.

Objectives: To describe the clothing/uniform worn by the students of the Hermantina Beraldo Nursing School (HBNS) and to analyze its relation to professional identity building in graduate nurses from this school in the period 1947-1965. Method: Historical and social study. Written, iconographic and oral sources of data were delivered by former students and former school teachers for this study. The data analysis was financed by the authors addressing the concepts of professional identity and uniforms in nursing schools. Results: We identified the following category: Clothing/uniforms in the first years of the HBNS: their role in professional identity building (1947-1964). The colors and accessories of both the hospital uniform and the uniform worn by students at public health care establishments remained similar to those worn at the sponsor school Anna Nery School of Nursing. Conclusions: The uniforms worn at the HBNS became a symbol for this school's graduates at that time, which led to the creation of an institutional, social and professional identity.

Objetivos: Describir el vestuario/uniforme usado por los alumnos de la Escuela de Enfermería Hermantina Beraldo (EEHB) y analizar su relación con la construcción de la identidad profesional de la enfermera en esta escuela desde 1947 hasta 1965. Método: Estudio histórico y social. Se utilizaron fuentes escritas, iconográficas y orales de las ex alumnas y ex profesores de la escuela. El análisis de los datos fue subvencionado por los autores que abordaron los conceptos de identidad profesional y vestuario. Resultados: Emergió la categoría: vestuario/ uniforme en la EEHB en los primeros años de su funcionamiento: papel en la construcción de la identidad profesional (1947-1964). Tanto el uniforme del hospital como el de salud pública de los estudiantes tuvieron como principales característicos los colores y accesorios similares a los utilizados en la escuela patrón, la Escuela de Enfermería Anna Nery de la Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro. Conclusiones: El uniforme en EEHB acompañó simbólicamente la imagen de la Enfermera graduada en ese período, con diferencias que permitieron la construcción de una identidad institucional, social y profesional de los enfermeros formados en esta escuela.

[The changes of nurse uniform style in Pakhoi Po Yan Hospital in recent hundred year].

Nurse uniforms are the nurse's professional clothing, the main features of which are to keep clean and for easy identification. Culture consciousness has been added into nurse uniforms by people's behavior during the course of its application. Through the investigation on the historical materials of Pakhoi Po Yan Hospital (founded by Church Missionary Society in April 1886 in Pakhoi), it can be found that the nurse uniforms of different ages reflect the cultural background of the changes and the development of nursing career. This not only deduces the nurse culture and progress, but also reflects the continuation of nursing care, its responsibility and innovation.

An unwritten anatomy lesson: The influence of Roman clothing on neuroanatomical terminology: In memoriam Albert L. Rhoton, Jr. (1932-2016).

Throughout the centuries, anatomists attempting to denominate the new structures they discovered have found inspiration in the civilization of ancient Rome and the clothing worn by its citizens. This aricle presents the origins of seven neuroanatomical terms, fimbria, velum, funiculus, lemniscus, corona, splenium, and cingulum, inspired by the clothing and jewellery of Roman women and the military attire of Roman soldiers. Thus, through their apparel, the Romans influenced the Terminologia Anatomica and "clothed" the structures of the brain and spinal cord, making them immortal. Clin. Anat. 29:685-690, 2016. © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.