Novel sustainable alternatives for the fashion industry: A method of chemically recycling waste textiles via acid hydrolysis.

The fashion industry has a considerable environmental impact, especially due to the increased generation of waste textiles as a result of fast fashion business models. Although fiber-to-fiber recycling processes are being developed, such a process is in reality a downcycling process, in which the mechanical properties of the textile fibers are impoverished with each cycle. Thus, new alternatives are required to completely close the fashion loop through chemically recycling textile fibers unfit for other types of recycling or resale due to their poor quality. We have evaluated the possibility of using acid hydrolysis to directly depolymerize the cotton fibers in waste textiles to produce a glucose solution, which could subsequently be used for the production of chemicals or fuels. Although a one-step procedure with sulfuric acid was unable to deliver high glucose production, it was possible to achieve a glucose yield over 90% through a two-step procedure, in which concentrated and dilute sulfuric acid were combined to exploit the benefits of both concentrations. Glucose concentrations around 40 g/L were achieved by increasing the solids loading in the two-step process, which might be sufficiently high for the fermentation of the solution into high-value products. Thus, this study demonstrates that it would be possible to chemically recycle (cellulose-based) waste textiles via acid hydrolysis, which, if correctly designed, could avoid the need to use enzymes to achieve high conversion efficiencies.

Towards circular fashion - transforming pulp mills into hubs for textile recycling.

Most waste textiles are currently incinerated or landfilled, which is becoming an increasing environmental problem due to the ever-increasing consumption of textiles in the world. New recycling processes are required to address this problem and, although textile-to-textile recycling would be preferable, many researchers have suggested implementing processes based on the depolymerization of the textile fibers. We suggest integrating textile recycling with pulp mills, which would reduce the cost of depolymerizing the textile fibers and, at the same time, would diversify the product portfolio of the pulp mill, transforming the facility into a true biorefinery. This integration would be based on using green liquor as the pretreatment agent in the textile recycling process, as well as energy integration between the two processes. Na2CO3 was used to identify the conditions under which this pretreatment should be performed. Temperature and residence time proved to be critical in the efficacy of the pretreatment, as suitable values were required to ensure partial solubilization of the waste textiles. The conditioning of the pretreated material also had an important effect on the process, as it ensured a suitable environment for the enzymatic depolymerization while maintaining the changes in the material caused by pretreatment. Pretreatment was then performed with industrial green liquor, showing that the efficiency of textile recycling was about 70% when integrated in a pulp mill.

Revisiting the Dissolution of Cellulose in NaOH as "Seen" by X-rays.

Cotton production is reaching a global limit, leading to a growing demand for bio-based textile fibers produced by other means. Textile fibers based on regenerated cellulose from wood holds great potential, but in order to produce fibers, the components need to be dissolved in suitable solvents. Furthermore, the dissolution process of cellulose is not yet fully understood. In this study, we investigated the dissolution state of microcrystalline cellulose in aqueous NaOH by using primarily scattering methods. Contrary to previous findings, this study indicated that cellulose concentrations of up to 2 wt % are completely molecularly dissolved in 8 wt % NaOH. Scattering data furthermore revealed the presence of semi-flexible cylinders with stiff segments. In order to improve the dissolution capability of NaOH, the effects of different additives have been of interest. In this study, scattering data indicated that the addition of ZnO decreased the formation of aggregates, while the addition of PEG did not improve the dissolution properties significantly, although preliminary NMR data did suggest a weak attraction between PEG and cellulose. Overall, this study sheds further light on the dissolution of cellulose in NaOH and highlights the use of scattering methods to assess solvent quality.