The Tiny Big Difference: Nanotechnology in Photoprotective Innovations - A Systematic Review.

UV radiation causes long- and short-term skin damage, such as erythema and skin cancer. Therefore, the use of sunscreens is extremely important. However, concerns about UV filter safety have prompted exploration into alternative solutions, with nanotechnology emerging as a promising avenue. This systematic review identified 23 experimental studies utilizing nanocarriers to encapsulate sunscreens with the aim of enhancing their efficacy and safety. Polymeric and lipid nanoparticles are frequently employed to encapsulate both organic and inorganic UV filters along with natural antioxidants. Nanocarriers have demonstrated benefits including reduced active ingredient usage, increased sun protection factor, and mitigated photoinstability. Notably, they also decreased the skin absorption of UV filters. In summary, nanocarriers represent a viable strategy for improving sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced physicochemical properties and bolstered photoprotective effects, thereby addressing concerns regarding UV filter safety and efficacy in cosmetic applications.

Computer-aided drug design supporting sunscreen research: a showcase study using previously synthesized hybrid UV filter-antioxidant compounds.

CONTEXT: Although quantum mechanical calculations have proven effective in accurately predicting UV absorption and assessing the antioxidant potential of compounds, the utilization of computer-aided drug design (CADD) to support sustainable synthesis research of new sunscreen active ingredients remains an area with limited exploration. Furthermore, there are ongoing concerns about the safety and effectiveness of existing sunscreens. Therefore, it remains crucial to investigate photoprotection mechanisms and develop enhanced strategies for mitigating the harmful effects of UVR exposure, improving both the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products. A previous study conducted synthesis research on eight novel hybrid compounds (I-VIII) for use in sunscreen products by molecular hybridization of trans-resveratrol (RESV), avobenzone (AVO), and octinoxate (OMC). Herein, time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations performed in the gas phase on the isolated hybrid compounds (I-VIII) proved to reproduce the experimental UV absorption. Resveratrol-avobenzone structure-based hybrids (I-IV) present absorption maxima in the UVB range with slight differences between them, while resveratrol-OMC structure-based hybrids (V-VIII) showed main absorption in the UVA range. Among RESV-OMC hybrids, compounds V and VI exhibited higher UV absorption intensity, and compound VIII stood out for its broad-spectrum coverage in our simulations. Furthermore, both in silico and in vitro analyses revealed that compounds VII and VIII exhibited the highest antioxidant activity, with compound I emerging as the most reactive antioxidant within RESV-AVO hybrids. The study suggests a preference for the hydrogen atom transfer (HAT) mechanism over single-electron transfer followed by proton transfer (SET-PT) in the gas phase. With a strong focus on sustainability, this approach reduces costs and minimizes effluent production in synthesis research, promoting the eco-friendly development of new sunscreen active ingredients. METHODS: The SPARTAN'20 program was utilized for the geometry optimization and energy calculations of all compounds. Conformer distribution analysis was performed using the Merck molecular force field 94 (MMFF94), and geometry optimization was carried out using the parametric method 6 (PM6) followed by density functional theory (DFT/B3LYP/6-31G(d)). The antioxidant behavior of the hybrid compounds (I-VIII) was determined using the highest occupied molecular orbital (εHOMO) and the lowest unoccupied molecular orbital (εLUMO) energies, as well as the bond dissociation enthalpy (BDE), ionization potential (IP), and proton dissociation enthalpy (PDE) values, all calculated at the same level of structural optimization. TD-DFT study is carried out to calculate the excitation energy using the B3LYP functional with the 6-31G(d) basis set. The calculated transitions were convoluted with a Gaussian profile using the Gabedit program.

Analysis of the UV filter Benzophenone-3 assimilation in Crossostrea gigas oysters post-exposure in a controlled environment by LC-MS/MS.

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3), utilized as a UV filter in cosmetic products, is an emerging contaminant that constitutes a threat to natural resources and environmental health. This study investigated the assimilation of the UV filter BP-3 in Crassostrea gigas oysters collected in Florianópolis, Santa Catarina, Brazil. Lyophilized oyster tissue extracts were prepared using the QuEChERS method, and LC-MS/MS was employed to determine the BP-3 concentration in the samples. The method was applied to specimens intentionally exposed to two concentrations of the contaminant, for different periods of exposure (1 and 7 days). Samples from treatment 1 (T1) were exposed to a concentration of 1 µg L-1 of the BP-3 standard, and samples from treatment 2 (T2) were exposed to a concentration of 100 µg L-1 of the BP-3 standard. The results revealed rapid absorption of BP-3, with an increase of 126% for lower concentrations, reaching 1.13 µg of BP-3 per gram of oyster tissue, and 17% for higher concentrations, reaching 34.6 µg of BP-3 per gram of oyster tissue after 7 days. The presence of BP-3 even in samples not directly exposed to the contaminant indicates its widespread environmental distribution. The rapid bioaccumulation suggests the need to consider seasonal variations, such as increased tourism in the summer. The validated analytical method demonstrated efficacy in quantifying BP-3, providing an integrated approach for long-term monitoring of pollution levels and their dynamic variations over time. In addition, variation in BP-3 levels in the samples may be related to transport patterns influenced by tides and discharges from septic system, highlighting the need to improve wastewater treatment. These findings underscore the necessity for continuous biomonitoring and effective environmental management to safeguard the health of marine ecosystems and humans.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443).

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Ruellia angustiflora (Nees) Lindau ex Rambo: extraction and characterization of phenolic compounds and evaluation of antiradical, photoprotective and antimicrobial activities.

Ruellia angustiflora is a shrub popularly known as flower of fire, used in traditional medicine as a healing agent. This study aims to verify the presence of characteristics of pharmaceutical interest in extracts from the root, stem and leaves of this species. The ideal time for ultrasound-assisted extraction is 60 min with a solid-liquid ratio of 1% (w/v). The kinetics of the reaction of the extracts with DPPH is biphasic, and IC50 values are related to the total phenolic compounds. Five phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts, where ferulic acid, rutin and quercetin showed to be the main responsible for the antiradical activity. The extracts displayed considerable photoprotective activity, mainly Ra-LE (SPF = 23). Ra-RE showed an inhibition halo similar to erythromycin against Streptococcus pyogenes. Taken together, these data reveal that Ruellia angustiflora is a source of phenolic compounds and has relevant antiradical, photoprotective and antibacterial activities.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties.

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 22 full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties.

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Simple preparation of broadband UV filters based on TiO2 coated with aqueous extracts of native trees from the Chaco region of Argentina.

The native forest of northwestern Argentina, as part of the Chaco region, is a rich and unexploited source of phytochemical compounds for medicinal/cosmetic applications. In the present study, fruit, leaf, branch, and bark organs of the native trees Sarcomphalus mistol (Mistol, M) and Schinopsis lorentzii (Quebracho Colorado santiagueño, QC) were harvested, and aqueous plant extracts (PE) were prepared. The spectroscopic (UV-Vis absorbance, diffuse reflectance, ATR-FTIR) and antioxidant (TEAC, Folin-Ciocalteu) properties of PE were characterized and used as TiO2 coating material to obtain a series of TiO2@PE nanocomposites. These materials showed almost null photocatalytic activity compared to aqueous suspensions of bare TiO2, displaying yellowish to brownish coloration and high long-term stability in both freshwater and seawater model solutions. The loss of photocatalytic activity in TiO2@PE was associated with the combination of the internal filter effect and the antioxidant/radical capacity exerted by the phytochemicals of the PE coating, with higher broadband photoprotection for the nanocomposites prepared with QC extracts. Thus, this study shows the potential capacity of the forest resources of the Chaco region of Argentina for the development of new cosmetic and/or sun protection formulations.

Development and characterization of photoprotective nanoemulsions containing Babassu (Orbignya phalerata Mart. ) lipophilic extract

Abstract Oil-in-water photoprotective nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using Babassu (BBS) lipophilic extract, nonionic surfactants, and low concentrations of organic sunscreens by ultrasonic processing. BBS extract was chosen due to its suitable physicochemical properties (acidity index, peroxide index, refraction index, and relative density) and predominance of saturated fatty acids, identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), which promote biological activities and high oxidative stability. NEs were characterized by mean droplet size, morphology, polydispersity index (PdI), pH, and organoleptic properties, and the physical stability of the NEs was evaluated for 120 days at room temperature. The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined, and the photostability and in vitro cytotoxicity assays were performed for NEs. All NEs remained stable for 120 days, with a droplet size <150 nm and a monomodal distribution profile. The pH values were compatible with the skin's pH. NE3 showed a spherical morphology, with a mean droplet size of 125.15 ± 0.16 nm and PdI of 0.145 ± 0.032. NE3 containing BBS extract and sunscreens presented an SPF of 35.5 ± 3.0, was photostable after 6 h of radiation and was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast cells. Thus, NE3 could be considered a promising formulation for developing synergic plant-extract sunscreen photoprotective products for the market

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Atividade fotoprotetora e antioxidante de compostos fenólicos: uma revisão sistemática de testes in vitro / Photoprotective and antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds: a systematic review of in vitro tests / Actividad fotoprotectora y antioxidante de compuestos fenólicos: una revisión sistemática de ensayos in vitro

RESUMO Introdução: Os compostos fenólicos, devido a sua estrutura química, possuem a capacidade de absorver a energia ultravioleta e reduzir a formação de radicais livres. Objetivo: Avaliar a atividade fotoprotetora e antioxidante de compostos fenólicos a partir da observação de resultados in vitro e verificar a importância do uso de modelos biológicos nessa perspectiva. Metodologia: Foi realizada uma pesquisa de artigos publicados, na base de dados Pubmed, entre 2010 e 2020, que atendessem aos objetivos deste trabalho, 44 artigos foram selecionados. Resultados: Os métodos instrumentais utilizados para avaliação da atividade fotoprotetora apresentaram boa correlação in vivo e mostram-se rápidos e eficazes na determinação do fator de proteção solar. Além desses, têm-se aplicado métodos biológicos para a avaliação de aspectos que não são mensurados por métodos físico-químicos, relacionado aos danos ao DNA, decorrentes da exposição solar. Para a avaliação da atividade antioxidante, o método do radical DPPH foi empregado em 92,6 % dos estudos analisados e foi observado que os antioxidantes podem incrementar a proteção solar e, ainda, auxiliar na estabilidade de filtros solares sintéticos. Conclusão: Os compostos fenólicos, especialmente aqueles com propriedades antioxidantes, podem ser utilizados como agentes fotoprotetores em formulações tópicas para reduzir os danos à pele induzidos pela radiação UV.

SUMMARY Introduction: Phenolic compounds, due to their chemical structure, can absorb ultraviolet energy and reduce the formation of free radicals. Aim: To evaluate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds from the observation of in vitro results and to verify the importance of the use of biological models in this perspective. Methodology: A search for articles published in the Pubmed database was carried out between 2010 and 2020, which met the objectives of this work, 44 articles were selected. Results: According to the literature, the instrumental methods used to assess independent photoprotective activity, good correlation in vivo, and demonstrating rapid and effective determination of the sun protection factor. In addition to these, biological methods have been provided for the evaluation of aspects not measured by physical-chemical methods, related to DNA damage, resulting from sun exposure. For the evaluation of antioxidant activity, the DPPH radical method was registered in 92.6 % of published studies and it was observed that antioxidants can increase sun protection and also help in the stability of synthetic sunscreens. Conclusion: Phenolic compounds, especially with antioxidant properties, can be used as photoprotective agents in topical formulations to reduce skin damage induced by UV radiation.

RESUMEN Introducción: Los compuestos fenólicos, por su estructura química, tienen la capacidad de absorber la energía ultravioleta y reducir la formación de radicales libres. Objetivo: Evaluar la actividad fotoprotectora y antioxidante de compuestos fenólicos a partir de la observación de resultados in vitro y comprobar la importancia del uso de modelos biológicos en esta perspectiva. Metodología: Se realizó una búsqueda de artículos publicados en la base de datos Pubmed entre 2010 y 2020, que cumplieron con los objetivos de este trabajo, se seleccionaron 44 artículos. Resultados: Los métodos instrumentales utilizados para evaluar la actividad fotoprotectora mostraron una buena correlación in vivo y demostraron ser rápidos y eficientes en la determinación del factor de protección solar. Además de estos, se aplicaron métodos biológicos para evaluar aspectos no medidos por métodos físico-químicos, relacionados con el daño en el ADN por exposición solar. Para la evaluación de la actividad antioxidante se utilizó el método radical DPPH en el 92,6% de los estudios analizados y se observó que los antioxidantes pueden aumentar la protección solar y también ayudar en la estabilidad de los protectores solares sintéticos. Conclusión: Los compuestos fenólicos, especialmente aquellos con propiedades antioxidantes, pueden utilizarse como agentes fotoprotectores en formulaciones tópicas para reducir el daño cutáneo inducido por la radiación UV.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments.

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, ß-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Novel UV filters from Pentacalia pulchella extracts with photoprotective properties and antioxidant activity.

Most of the plant species found in the high mountain ecosystems of the tropics is unique and exceptional, because they have developed complex adaptations to survive in extreme environmental conditions, such as high levels of UVR and low temperatures of these ecological environments. In an exploratory study carried out on some plants of this ecosystem, we found that one of the most promising species was the Pentacalia pulchella (Kunth) Cuatrec. (Asteraceae) an endemic plant of Colombia, which grows between 2500 and 3500 m.a.s.l. Therefore, the objective of this work was to evaluate the photoprotective, antioxidant, and chemical composition of extracts from the leaves of P. pulchella. Extracts showed good absorption coefficients in UVA-UVB, high content of total phenols, with antioxidant activity comparable to that obtained with butylhydroxytoluene (BHT). Finally, the formulation labeled "7" with 10% extract presented adequate sensory characteristics for topical use, good in vitro photoprotection values in the UVA-UVB range (SPF (Sun Protection Factor): 7.3 ± 0.9, UVAPF (Ultraviolet A Protection Factor): 5.3 ± 0.6, λc 376), and antioxidant activity. Results obtained allow us to suggest that the extract of P. pulchella has a high potential as a source of new natural solar filters.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review.

BACKGROUND: The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance. AIM AND METHODS: In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives. RESULTS: Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF. CONCLUSION: Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

Risk factors for frontal fibrosing alopecia: A case-control study in a multiracial population.

BACKGROUND: Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a chronic cicatricial alopecia with unknown etiology and a worldwide rising incidence. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to evaluate the association of FFA with demographic and exposure factors in a Brazilian multiracial population. METHODS: A multicenter case-control study was conducted in 11 referral centers throughout Brazil. The study was a case-control study that prospectively recruited 902 participants (451 patients with FFA and 451 sex-matched control individuals). Study participants completed a thorough questionnaire comprising variables grouped as baseline demographics, environmental exposure, diet, hormonal factors, allergies, and hair and skin care. RESULTS: When adjusted by sex, age, menopause, and skin color, FFA was associated with hair straightening with formalin (odds ratio [OR], 3.18), use of ordinary (nondermatologic) facial soap (OR, 2.09) and facial moisturizer (OR, 1.99), thyroid disorders (OR, 1.69), and rosacea (OR, 2.08). Smokers (OR, 0.33) and users of antiresidue/clarifying shampoo (OR, 0.35) presented a negative association with FFA. There was no association with the use of sunscreen. LIMITATIONS: Recall bias. CONCLUSIONS: The association with moisturizers, ordinary facial soap, and hair straightening with formalin and the negative association with antiresidue/clarifying shampoo reinforce the possibility of an exogenous particle triggering FFA.

Rapid and cost-effective multiresidue analysis of pharmaceuticals, personal care products, and antifouling booster biocides in marine sediments using matrix solid phase dispersion.

Currently, there are many contaminants of concern that need to be accurately determined to help assess their potential environmental hazard. Despite their increasing interest, yet few environmental occurrence data exist, likely because they are present at low levels and in very complex matrices. Therefore, multiresidue analytical methods for their determination need to be highly sensitive, selective, and robust. Particularly, due to the trace levels of these chemicals in the environment, an extensive extraction procedure is required before determination. This work details the development of a fast and cheap vortex-assisted matrix solid-phase dispersion-high performance liquid chromatography tandem-mass spectrometry (VA-MSPD-HPLC-MS/MS) method for multiresidue determination of 59 contaminants of emerging concern (CECs) including pharmaceuticals, personal care products, and booster biocides, in sediment. The validated method provided high sensitivity (0.42-36.8 ngg-1 dw quantification limits), wide and good linearity (r2 > 0.999), satisfactory accuracy (60-140%), and precision below 20% for most target analytes. In comparison with previous methods, relying on traditional techniques, the proposed method demonstrated to be more environmentally friendly, cheaper, simpler, and faster. The method was applied to monitor the occurrence of these compounds in sediments collected in Brazil, using only 2 g dw sediment samples, free-solid support, and 5 mL methanol as extraction solvent. The UV filter avobenzone, the UV stabilizer and antifreeze methylbenzotriazole, the preservative methylparaben, the fluoroquinolone antibiotic ciprofloxacin, and the biocides irgarol and 4,5-dichloro-2-octyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one were determined at concentrations in the range 1.44-69.7 ngg-1 dw.

Bemotrizinol-Loaded Carnauba Wax-Based Nanostructured Lipid Carriers for Sunscreen: Optimization, Characterization, and In vitro Evaluation.

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles formed by solid and liquid lipids. In this study, NLC containing an organic UV filter, bemotrizinol, were developed for sunscreen formulation using carnauba wax and caprylic/capric triglycerides through ultrasonication technique. A Box-Behnken design was used to evaluate the influence of three variables on the particle size with the purpose of choosing the best system for further characterization. The particle size decreased as the surfactant concentration increased, reaching an average size of 122.4 ± 0.3 nm at 30 days of storage. Scanning electron microscopy showed intact and spherical particles. Thermal analysis and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy suggest that bemotrizinol was incorporated into the NLC. The X-ray diffraction showed a reduction in the crystallinity of the NLC. In vitro analysis indicated an improvement in the photoprotective activity of bemotrizinol when incorporated into NLC. These findings suggest a promising, stable, and biocompatible system.

Application of Factorial Design and Rheology to the Development of Photoprotective Formulations.

A sunscreen should form a stable and homogeneous film over the skin surface, which can improve its photoprotective activity and avoid adverse effects. For this purpose, the definition of the appropriate vehicle is of fundamental importance since emulsifying agents are known to directly influence the stability, sensorial properties and surface tension of sunscreens, modulating their film-forming performance. In this context, the objective of the present study was to systematically develop formulations with UVB/UVA protection and evaluate the effect of wax concentration on the rheological behaviour. A 2-level full factorial design was applied for the development of four formulations. Two categorical factors were evaluated, glyceryl stearate plus PEG-75 stearate (Wax 1) and methyl glucose sesquistearate (Wax 2). Rheological behaviour was determined in triplicate and rheograms were analysed using the Ostwald model. Rheological parameters were correlated by the Spearman rank correlation test and effects were evaluated by Pareto chart and surface response methodology (SRM). It was possible to identify the pseudoplastic and thixotropic behaviour of all formulations exhibiting a thinning effect on higher shear stress. Factorial analysis showed that both waxes significantly influenced consistency and thixotropic behaviour. The effect of Wax 2 concentration in thixotropy was positive and of higher magnitude and a synergistic effect was also observed. Spearman correlation coefficient of consistency index and apparent viscosity was significantly strong and positive. Finally, factorial analysis allowed the determination of the effects of waxes on the rheological parameters of the formulations. A quantitative relationship between wax concentration and significant responses was established, permitting the prediction of desirable rheological properties for improved sunscreen efficacy.

Dermatological and Epidemiological Profiles of Patients with Albinism in São Paulo, Brazil, between 2010 and 2017: A Cross-Sectional Study.

INTRODUCTION: Oculocutaneous albinism is an autosomal recessive disease caused by complete absence of or decrease in melanin biosynthesis in melanocytes. Due to the reduction or absence of melanin, albinos are highly susceptible to the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation and are at greater risk of actinic damage and skin cancer. There are no epidemiological data on the incidence of albinism in Brazil. OBJECTIVE: To analyze the clinical and epidemiological profile of patients with albinism treated by the Pró-Albino Program of the Dermatology Clinic of Santa Casa de Misericórdia from its beginning in 2010 until 2017. METHODS: In this cross-sectional study, the records of all consecutive albino patients admitted to the service in the study period were reviewed. Sociodemographic data, family history, and dermatological clinical data were collected. RESULTS: Between March 2010 and April 2017, 191 patients were admitted, of whom 109 were female (57.07%) and the age range was 0-92 years, with >30% under the age of 18 years. Consanguinity among the parents was confirmed by 26% of the patients. Unprotected sun exposure was reported by 109 (57.07%), and 138 (72.25%) had a history of sunburn. Of the 146 records with information, 38 had skin cancer (26%), with a mean age of 47.4 (p < 0.0001); the youngest patient diagnosed with a cutaneous tumor was 23 years old. The prevalence of actinic damage was high. There was information on solar elastosis and actinic keratosis in 148 medical records, of which 96 (64.8%) patients had elastosis and 75 (50.67%) keratoses. Elastosis, keratosis, and skin cancer were significantly associated with age, unprotected sun exposure, and sunburn (p < 0.05). Of the 37 (26% of the sample of 146) patients with a previous or current history of skin cancer, it was possible to identify the histological type in 29 (13 men and 16 women); of these, 18 (62%) were basal cell carcinomas (BCC), 15 (51%) were squamous cell carcinomas (SCC), and 2 (7%) were melanomas. Of these, 4 cases (14%) presented the 2 types of carcinoma (BCC and SCC), and the 2 that had a diagnosis of melanoma also had BCC. Some patients had multiple ulcerated tumors. The tumor site was preferentially in the head and neck (43%), trunk (37%) and limbs (20%). CONCLUSIONS: Albinos represent a risk group for skin cancer and other actinic lesions. These lesions were found to be prevalent in the albinos seen by the program and probably reflect the characteristics found in the Brazilian albino population. Access to health care, especially through multidisciplinary programs that enable the diagnosis and early treatment of these lesions, health education, and the use of photoprotective measures can reduce morbidity and mortality and improve the quality of life of patients with this rare genetic condition.

The Synergistic Behavior of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds Obtained from Winemaking Waste's Valorization, Increased the Efficacy of a Sunscreen System.

Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I-cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II-cosmetic base and extract; and Type III-cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 µmol TE g-1 at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 µmol TE g-1 at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 µmol TE g-1 at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 µmol TE g-1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.