Bacterial cellulose in cosmetic innovation: A review.

Bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a versatile biomaterial with a myriad of industrial applications, particularly within the cosmetics sector. The absence of hemicellulose, lignin, and pectin in its pure cellulose structure enables favorable interactions with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic biopolymers. This enhances compatibility with active ingredients commonly employed in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and botanical extracts. Recent progress in BC-based materials, which encompasses membranes, films, gels, nanocrystals, and nanofibers, highlights its significant potential in cosmetics. In this context, BC not only serves as a carrier for active ingredients but also plays a crucial role as a structural agent in formulations. The sustainability of BC production and processing is a central focus, highlighting the need for innovative approaches to strengthen scalability and cost-effectiveness. Future research endeavors, including the exploration of novel cultivation strategies and functionalization techniques, aim to maximize BC's therapeutic potential while broadening its scope in personalized skincare regimes. Therefore, this review emphasizes the crucial contribution of BC to the cosmetics sector, underlining its role in fostering innovation, sustainability, and ethical skincare practices. By integrating recent research findings and industry trends, this review proposes a fresh approach to advancing both skincare science and environmental responsibility in the cosmetics industry.

Sens-ocular model: Cell-based assay to evaluate eye stinging potential of chemicals and baby cosmetic formulations.

The TRPV1 receptor, which is known to contribute significantly to pain perception, has recently been identified as a useful tool for predicting eye stinging potential in cosmetics. In this study, HEK-293 cells with high TRPV1 expression were utilized to evaluate calcium influx related to receptor activation triggered by chemicals and cosmetic formulations. The cells were exposed to increasing concentrations of substances to cause or not some aggression to the eye, and TRPV1 activity was assessed by measuring intracellular FURA-2 AM fluorescence signal. To confirm TRPV1 channel activation, capsazepine, a capsaicin antagonist, was employed in addition to using capsaicin as a positive control. The study's results indicate that this novel model can identify compounds known to cause some aggression to the eye, such as stinging, considering a cut-off value of 60% of Ca2+ influx exposed to the lowest evaluated concentration (0.00032%). When applied to the cosmetic baby formulation, although the presented model exhibited higher sensitivity by classifying as stinging formulations that had previously undergone clinical testing and were deemed non-stinging, the assay could serve as a valuable in vitro tool for predicting human eye stinging sensation and can be used as a tier 1 in an integrated testing strategy.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts.

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Development of natural cosmetic emulsion using the by-product of Lecythis pisonis seed.

Natural products and their biological activities are currently a subject of great interest to the industrial and scientific sector, due to society's awareness of the proper use of biodiversity and economic and sustainability. To promote the sustainable use of biomass the extract of the by-product of the shell seed of Lecythis pisonis was applied to develop a natural cosmetic emulsion. To ensure safety for its topical use the cytotoxic activity of its crude extract was evaluated by the colorimetric method of 3- bromide (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium, MTT, in cell culture of fibroblasts L929, human keratinocytes HaCat, and human endothelium EA.hy926 cell lines. The triplicate of the cosmetic formulation containing the extract was obtained regarding stability according to the procedures of the Brazilian Health Regulatory Agency (Anvisa). The irritability tests were performed using alternative methods, in vitro, chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM and CAM-TBS), and hemolysis test (RBC). The crude extract was not cytotoxic, IC50 index >780 mg/mL. The preservative system was effective against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and Aspergillus niger. The emulsion was classified as non-irritable. The crude extract of the by-product of sapucaia seeds can be incorporated into a natural emulsion, safe for topical use.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K.

OBJECTIVE: The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium. METHODS: Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used. RESULTS: Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay. CONCLUSIONS: SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

OBJECTIF: L'Amazonie possède une riche biodiversité ou l'on trouve de nombreuses espèces végétales différentes. Cette diversité constitue une source importante de substances bioactives, principalement en raison des différents composants structurels de leurs phytométabolites. La recherche de produits naturels est une stratégie de développement de nouveaux agents à applications thérapeutiques, notamment cosmétiques, présentant un meilleur potentiel pharmacologique. Dans cette perspective, l'objectif de l'étude était d'étudier l'application cosmétique (potentiel anti­âge) de l'extrait d'écorce de tige de Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K ­ (SBEBE), communément connu sous le nom de noix du Brésil, ici appelé SBEBE, un arbre noble, espèce végétale d'Amazonie riche en sélénium. MÉTHODES: Des tests enzymatiques, de glycation, de prolifération, de guérison cellulaire, de quantification du collagène, de toxicité et de génotoxicité ont été utilisés. RÉSULTATS: Parmi les enzymes impliquées dans la matrice extracellulaire de la peau, le SBEBE était capable d'inhiber uniquement l'élastase (62,67 +­ 3,75) par rapport au sivelestat standard (89,04 +­ 0,53), et l'extrait était également capable d'inhiber à la fois la voie oxydative et non­oxydative. Lorsque la toxicité cellulaire dans les fibroblastes (MRC­5) et les kératinocytes (HACAT) a été évaluée, SBEBE n'a présenté aucune toxicité en 24 heures d'incubation. Après cette période, l'extrait a montré une cytotoxicité moyenne en 48 et 72 h, mais pas suffisamment pour atteindre la concentration de 50 % de fibroblastes MRC­5. Dans le test au bleu trypan, l'extrait a favorisé la prolifération des fibroblastes en 24, 48 et 72 heures d'incubation, qui a été évaluée par une croissance cellulaire exponentielle, en mettant l'accent principalement sur la concentration la plus faible avec des résultats supérieurs à la norme. Lorsque la capacité de guérison cellulaire a été évaluée, en 48 heures d'exposition aux fibroblastes, SBEBE a pu induire un tapis cellulaire (film cellulaire) dans le test de grattage de la monocouche cellulaire. CONCLUSIONS: SBEBE a stimulé la production de collagène à toutes les concentrations testées. Dans le test alcalin des comètes, à la concentration la plus faible, l'extrait n'a pas induit de dommages à l'ADN par rapport au médicament de référence, la doxorubicine. Cette étude a prouvé que l'extrait de SBEBE peut être considéré comme un allié dans le traitement anti­âge cutané en tant que possible produit biotechnologique et phytocosmétique.

Enzymes for dermatological use.

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures for mothers of brides: Strategies and considerations.

The pivotal role of the bride's mothers in wedding celebrations is an effective motivation to seek cosmetic therapies, making them frequent patients in a dermatologists' offices. Addressing their aesthetic concerns contributes to their holistic well-being, but faces an intricate relationship between time availability, financial factors, and the critical emotional context. This article underscores the varying behavioral patterns of mothers of brides when seeking aesthetic treatments, providing tailored strategies for effective communication and decision-making, based on individual personalities. Additionally, this paper presents a specific timeline for the implementation of these interventions, including neuromodulators, collagen stimulators, and fillers. Understanding the unique traits and expectations of this particular population can lead to improved patient satisfaction, enhanced outcomes, and an overall positive experience.

NEOS: An odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry.

This work proposes an odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry that relies on the approach that produced the UniGEOS, a universal odour-related emotional scale from the Swiss Center for Affective Sciences. The Natura Emotion and Odor Scale (NEOS) was built on experiments conducted with a larger set of participants (491) and a set of 35 scents that combine seven commercial perfumes from Natura & Co cosmetic company with 28 odours from different olfactory classes important for the cosmetic industry. The results showed the stability of 60 Emotion-Related terms in Brazilian Portuguese split into five emotion-related dimensions: Romance, Attention, Energy, Well-being and Negative feelings. The association of the scents evoking these five dimensions has direct implications in the design of new products.

Ce travail propose une échelle d'affect induite par des odeurs passible d'être utilisée dans l'industrie cosmétique. Cette échelle s'appuie sur l'approche qui a produit l'UniGEOS, une échelle affective universelle liée aux odeurs du Swiss Center for Affective Sciences. L'échelle Natura Emotion and Odor Scale (NEOS) a été construite sur la base d'expériences menées avec un plus grand nombre de participants (491) et un ensemble de 35 arômes combinant sept parfums commerciaux de la compagnie Natura & Co avec 28 odeurs de différentes classes olfactives importantes pour l'industrie cosmétique. Les résultats ont montré la stabilité de 60 termes liés aux émotions en portugais brésilien, répartis en cinq dimensions liées aux émotions : Romance, Attention, Énergie, Bien-être et Sentiments négatifs. L'association des arômes évoquant ces cinq dimensions a des implications directes dans la conception de nouveaux produits.

Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study.

BACKGROUND: The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers. AIM: To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide. METHODS: Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®. RESULTS: The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. CONCLUSIONS: The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Hurdles in translating science from lab to market in delivery systems for Cosmetics: An industrial perspective.

In recent decades, a sweeping technological wave has reshaped the global economic landscape. Fueled by the unceasing forces of digital innovation and venture capital investment, this transformative machine has left a significant mark across numerous economic sectors. More recently, the emergence of 'deep tech' start-ups, focusing on areas such as artificial intelligence, nanotechnology, and biotechnology, has infused a fresh wave of innovation into various sectors, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This review explores the significance of innovation within the cosmetics sector, with a particular emphasis on delivery systems. It assesses the crucial process of bridging the gap between research and the market, particularly in the translation of nanotechnology into tangible real-world applications. With the rise of nanotechnology-based beauty ingredients, we can anticipate groundbreaking advancements that promise to surpass consumer expectations, ushering in a new era of unparalleled innovation in beauty products.

Cosmetic attributes (oiliness reduction and firmness) from face masks composed of red, green and black clays / Atributos cosméticos (redução de oleosidade e melhora de firmeza) de máscaras faciais compostas por argilas vermelha, verde e preta

The appearance of skin strongly influences people´s self-esteem and well-being. Among the characteristics that affect the most, we can cite acne and wrinkles. Therefore, minimizing those characteristics by using cosmetics has important value for the consumer. Nowadays, there is a demand for natural ingredients, mainly concerning cosmetic products. The use of clays in beauty care is old, with therapeutic uses since Prehistory. There is an essential advantage in using clays for cosmetic purposes, as it is a low-cost, environmentally friendly, natural, and abundant ingredient, which is chemically inert with a low level of toxicity (when in adequate conditions), easy to apply and remove, dries, and hardens fast. In this research work, we aimed at developing and investigating the effect of formulations containing red, green, and black clays as active components in oiliness reduction, and firmness and elasticity improvement in vivo, as well as characterizing clays mineralogically. All clays presented different compositions. Black clay was the one with the simplest mineralogic content, lowest density, and smallest particle size. It was the richest in Si and Al. Green clay presented expandable smectite and the highest density. Red clay presented the largest particle average size and was the richest in iron content. By thermal analysis, clays presented two characteristic events: the water loss (dehydration) and the dihydroxylation of kaolinite, turning into meta kaolinite. In Sebumetry, clays showed a significant reduction of skin oiliness on the forehead in both concentrations after 2h of contact compared to control, baseline, and placebo. However, after 4h (2h after removal), no significant difference was observed with the control. In the Cutometry, clays did not present significant efficacy in skin firmness and elasticity improvement when compared to control and placebo sites, thus, further studies should be performed comparing the efficacy of different vehicles with dispersed clays. Finally, clay mask formulations were developed with black, red, and green clay dispersed in an oil-free gel vehicle, which proved to be adequate for oily skin

A aparência da pele influencia fortemente autoestima e o bem-estar das pessoas. Dentre as características que mais afetam podemos citar acne e rugas. Portanto, minimizar estas características com o uso de cosméticos tem um valor importante para o consumidor. Atualmente existe uma procura por ingredientes naturais, principalmente no que diz respeito a produtos cosméticos. O uso das argilas nos cuidados de beleza é antigo, com usos terapêuticos desde a Pré-História. Há uma vantagem essencial na utilização de argilas para fins cosméticos, pois é um ingrediente de baixo custo, ecologicamente correto, natural, e abundante, que é quimicamente inerte e tem baixo nível de toxicidade (quando usado em condições adequadas), fácil de aplicar e remover, seca, e endurece rapidamente. Neste trabalho de pesquisa, objetivamos desenvolver e investigar o efeito de formulações contendo argilas vermelha, verde e preta como componentes ativos na redução da oleosidade e na melhoria da firmeza e elasticidade in vivo, bem como caracterizar mineralogicamente as argilas. Todas as argilas apresentaram diferentes composições. A argila preta foi a de conteúdo mineralógico mais simples, mais baixa densidade, e menor tamanho de partícula. Foi a mais rica em Si e Al. A argila verde apresentou esmectita expansível e mais alta densidade. A argila vermelha apresentou o maior tamanho médio de partícula e foi a mais rica em ferro. Segundo a análise térmica, as argilas apresentaram dois eventos característicos: a perda de água (desidratação) e a desidroxilação da caulinita, transformando-se em meta-caulinita. Na Sebumetria, as argilas demonstraram significativa redução na oleosidade da pele na testa em ambas as concentrações após 2h de contato comparada ao controle, basal e placebo. Porém, após 4h (2h após remoção), nenhuma diferença significativa foi observada com o controle. Na Cutometria, as argilas não apresentaram Eficácia significativa na melhora da firmeza e elasticidade quando comparadas aos sítios controle e placebo, portanto, mais estudos devem ser realizados comparando a eficácia de diferentes veículos com argilas dispersas. Finalmente, as formulações de máscaras de argilas foram desenvolvidas com argilas preta, vermelha e verde dispersas em um veículo em gel livre de oleosidade, o qual provou ser adequado para pele oleosa

Modelos avançados de pele humana 3D in vitro: epiderme bioimpressa e pele tricamada contendo hipoderme para avaliação de segurança e mimético de dermatite atópica nocaute de IL-13Rα2 para estudo da função barreira / Advanced in vitro 3D human skin models: bioprinted epidermis and trilayer skin containing hypodermis for safety assessment and atopic dermatitis mimetic with IL-13Rα2 knockout for barrier function study

A reconstrução de modelos avançados de pele tridimensional in vitro, que corresponda de forma mais fidedigna ao complexo microambiente da pele humana, depende da utilização de inovações tecnológicas e da adição de novos tipos celulares representativos da pele humana. Desta maneira, estes miméticos fornecem uma plataforma de alta relevância para estudos de fisiopatologia da pele, além de propiciar um sistema para a avaliação da segurança e eficácia de cosméticos e medicamentos alternativo ao uso de animais. Dessa maneira, o Capítulo I compara a performance de uma epiderme reconstruída humana (RHE) bioimpressa com a manual utilizando o teste in vitro de irritação cutânea descrito no guia OCDE número 439. Nossos resultados demonstram que ambos os modelos de pele exibiram morfologia estratificada e a função barreira epidérmica equivalente aos modelos validados. Nos testes de irritação in vitro, ambos modelos distinguiram corretamente as substâncias de referência, classificadas entre irritantes ou não-irritantes de acordo com o limiar de viabilidade de 50%. Esse resultado indica que a bioimpressora poderia ser de grande utilidade para a automação da reconstrução de modelos epidérmicos. O tecido hipodérmico possui importante papel na homeostase da pele humana. O Capítulo II aborda a reconstrução de uma pele tricamada, contendo a camada hipodérmica, além da epiderme e derme. Usando esferoides de adipócitos diferenciados in vitro, um modelo de pele tricamada em matriz de colágeno foi construído. Ao comparar este com a pele bicamada obtivemos maior expressão de loricrina e involucrina no modelo tricamada, indicando um potencial para maior função barreira, além de maior expressão de PPAR-γ. Testes de função barreira através da resistividade elétrica não demonstraram diferenças entre os modelos, mas a aplicação de SDS a 5 mg/ml por 18 horas induziu o aumento da viabilidade na pele tricamada. Além disso, após a aplicação de SDS a 2,5% para induzir uma irritação aguda, seguida de recuperação por 42h, obtivemos maior viabilidade na pele tricamada, indicando melhor recuperação pós-lesão irritativa induzida. A pele tricamada é promissora para estudos do metabolismo da pele humana e recuperação de lesões. A dermatite atópica (DA) é uma doença eczematosa de pele caracterizada por inflamação do tipo Th2 e alteração da barreira epidérmica. IL-13 e IL-4 são centrais no comprometimento da barreira epidérmica na DA. Entre os receptores de IL-13 em queratinócitos, o receptor IL-13Rα2, tem um papel controverso na alteração da barreira cutânea. O objetivo do Capítulo III foi estudar a deleção da expressão de IL-13Rα2 em RHE, que foram expostas a IL-4 e IL-13, e avaliadas conforme a expressão dos receptores e de proteínas alteradas na DA. As epidermes com knockout em IL-13Rα2 apresentaram redução da expressão de NELL2 (p<0,0021), tipicamente aumentadas na DA. Além disso, houve redução da expressão do receptor do IL-2Rγ. Assim, um possível papel de exacerbação da DA do receptor IL-13Rα2 deve ser estudado mais extensamente para ser caracterizado

The reconstruction of advanced three-dimensional in vitro skin models, which more reliably correspond to the complex microenvironment of human skin, depends on the use of technological innovations and the addition of new cell types representative of human skin.In this way, these mimetics provide a highly relevant platform for studies of skin pathophysiology, in addition to providing a system for evaluating the safety and efficacy of cosmetics and medicines alternative to animal use. In this way, Chapter I compares the performance of a bioprinted human reconstructed epidermis (RHE) with a manual one using the in vitro skin irritation test described in OECD guide number 439. Our results demonstrate that both skin models exhibited stratified morphology and the epidermal barrier function equivalent to validated models. In in vitro irritation tests, both models correctly distinguished the reference substances, classified as irritating or non-irritating according to the viability threshold of 50%. This result indicates that the bioprinter could be of great use for automating the reconstruction of epidermal models Hypodermic tissue plays an important role in the homeostasis of human skin. Chapter II addresses the reconstruction of a three-layer skin, containing the hypodermic layer, in addition to the epidermis and dermis. Using in vitro differentiated adipocyte spheroids, a trilayer skin model in collagen matrix was constructed. When comparing this with bilayer skin, we obtained greater expression of loricrin and involucrin in the trilayer model, indicating a potential for greater barrier function, in addition to greater expression of PPAR-γ . Barrier function tests using electrical resistivity did not demonstrate differences between the models, but the application of SDS at 5 mg/ml for 18 hours induced an increase in viability in the three-layer skin. Furthermore, after applying 2.5% SDS to induce acute irritation, followed by recovery for 42 hours, we obtained greater viability in the three-layer skin, indicating better recovery after induced irritant injury. Trilayer skin holds promise for studies of human skin metabolism and injury recovery. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an eczematous skin disease characterized by Th2-type inflammation and alteration of the epidermal barrier. IL-13 and IL-4 are central to the impairment of the epidermal barrier in AD. Among the IL-13 receptors on keratinocytes, the IL-13Rα2 receptor has a controversial role in altering the skin barrier. The objective of Chapter III was to study the deletion of IL-13Rα2 expression in RHE, which were exposed to IL-4 and IL-13, and evaluated according to the expression of receptors and proteins altered in AD. Epidermis with IL-13Rα2 knockout showed reduced NELL2 expression (p<0.0021), typically increased in AD. Furthermore, there was a reduction in the expression of the IL-2Rγ receptor. Therefore, a possible AD exacerbation role of the IL-13Rα2 receptor should be studied more extensively to be characterized

Combining a microphysiological system of three organ equivalents and transcriptomics to assess toxicological endpoints for cosmetic ingredients.

Animal testing for cosmetic ingredients and final products has been banned in Europe and is gaining legal force worldwide. However, the need for reliable testing methodologies remains for safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. While new approach methodologies exist for many toxicological endpoints, some complex ones lack appropriate testing methods. Microphysiological systems (MPSs) have emerged as a promising tool to address this gap in pre-clinical testing, offering higher predictivity compared to animal models due to the phylogenetic distance between humans and animals. Moreover, they provide a more physiological approach than traditional in vitro testing by mimicking interconnections between different culture compartments as seen in complex organisms. This study presents a three-organ microfluidic MPS comprising skin, liver, and intestine equivalents. Combining this model with gene expression analysis, we evaluated toxicological endpoints of chemicals, demonstrating its potential for diverse applications. Our findings highlight the MPS model as a reliable and ethical method to be applied in an integrated approach for safety assessment in the cosmetic industry. It offers a promising strategy to evaluate toxicological endpoints for cosmetic ingredients and other chemicals, supporting the elimination of animal testing while ensuring consumer safety.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIF: Le sisal est une fibre rigide courante produite dans le monde entier, correspondant à environ 70 % de la production commerciale de toutes les fibres de ce type. Les fibres sont extraites des feuilles d'Agave sisalana dont environ 4 % du poids est obtenu, les 96 % restants étant considérés comme des résidus du procédé de l'industrie du sisal. L'objectif de ce projet était d'obtenir un extrait du résidu d'A. sisalana enrichi en polyphénols par extraction assistée par ultrasons (EAU), de le caractériser chimiquement, d'évaluer l'activité antioxydante in vitro et de développer des formulations photoprotectrices sûres et stables pour une application future dans des préparations cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'extraction ultrasonique de la matière végétale solide a été effectuée avec une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (v/v). L'extrait a été chimiquement caractérisé avec un équipement de chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance associé à un réseau moléculaire (RM) classique, puis évalué pour l'activité antioxydante in vitro par différentes méthodologies. Dix formulations ont été préparées en variant les concentrations des composants et le temps de cisaillement. L'extrait de sisal à 1,0 % a été incorporé dans les formulations les plus stables et la stabilité préliminaire et accélérée a été évaluée. La sécurité d'emploi des émulsions a été étudiée en évaluant l'irritabilité et la sensibilisation cutanées accumulées primaires et l'étude clinique dermatologique de la phototoxicité et de la photosensibilisation. Le facteur de protection solaire in vivo, le facteur de protection UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et la protection contre la lumière visible et bleue ont été déterminées pour les formulations photoprotectrices contenant ou non l'extrait qui étaient stables après 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: L'extraction par ultrasons utilisant une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (EH 50) comme véhicule d'extraction a menée au meilleur rendement. L'extrait a présenté une concentration de composés phénoliques (77,93 mg d'EAG/g) et une activité antioxydante in vitro. Les émulsions sans et avec 1,0 % d'extrait de sisal sont restées stables et sans danger. L'ajout de l'extrait à la formulation photoprotectrice a statistiquement augmenté le SPF par rapport à la formulation sans extrait et a offert une protection contre les rayonnements UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et l'absorption de la lumière visible et bleue. CONCLUSION: D'après ces résultats, les résidus solides d'A. sisalana peuvent être indiqués comme composant des formulations cosmétiques photoprotectrices et antioxydantes.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics.

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Le terme biopolymère fait référence aux matériaux obtenus par modification chimique des substances biologiques naturelles ou ceux qui surviennent des processus biotechnologiques. Ils sont biodégradables, biocompatibles, et non-toxiques. Du à leur avantages, les biopolymères ont de larges applications dans les cosmétiques conventionnels ainsi que dans les nouvelles tendances, et se placent comme des ingrédients essentiels qui peut être utilise comme modificateurs rhéologiques, émulsifiants, producteurs de films, humectants, hydratants, antimicrobiens, et, plus récemment, comme matériaux avec activité métabolique sur la peau. Le développement d'approches compte tenu de ces caractéristiques constitue un défi pour la création de produits de soins capillaires, dermatologiques et buccodentaires. Cet article présente une vision sur l'utilisation des principaux biopolymères dans les produits cosmétiques, et décrit leurs sources, leur structures dérivées, les nouvelles applications, ainsi que les aspects de sécurité lies à leur utilisation comme molécules cosmétiques.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging. AIMS: The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials. METHODS: We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms. RESULTS: The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1ß, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo. CONCLUSION: The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results.

OBJECTIVE: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.

OBJECTIF: Aujourd'hui, il est nécessaire d'améliorer les protocoles de sécurité d'emploi et d'efficacité pour évaluer le stratum corneum (SC) humain et son interaction avec les formulations topiques et cosmétiques par des méthodologies peu ou pas invasives. L'objectif de notre travail de recherche était de rationaliser la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, à savoir chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (High Performance Liquid Chromatography), substances réactives à l'acide thiobarbiturique (Thiobarbituric Acid Reactive Substances), stratum corneum ex vivo (SCEV), en explorant les résultats d'un groupe de 18 sujets. MÉTHODES: L'étude incluait 9 femmes et 9 hommes âgés de 19 à 57 ans présentant des phototypes II à V. Des sites de l'avant-bras de chaque volontaire ont été délimités de manière aléatoire, et le SC a été recueilli par « tape stripping ¼. La chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance a été utilisée pour quantifier l'adduit MDA-TBA2 (malondialdéhyde - acide thiobarbiturique) à partir du SC recueilli par « tape stripping ¼, irradié et non irradié par une chambre de simulation à ultraviolets (UV). RÉSULTATS: En observant les résultats de notre recherche actuelle et l'approche statistique appliquée, l'utilisation du rapport entre le site traité et le site contrôle serait une stratégie adéquate pour mieux discriminer et évaluer les résultats. En outre, une sélection optimale des volontaires pour répondre spécifiquement à l'objectif du test ex vivo peut également être considérée comme bénéfique. CONCLUSIONS: Il semble que dans les études futures axées sur l'impact de la peroxydation lipidique induite par UV du SC, déterminé par la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, les sujets les plus appropriés sont les femmes âgées de moins de 35 ans présentant un phototype II.

The development and application of a novel hazard scoring tool for assessing impacts of cosmetic ingredients on aquatic ecosystems: A case study of rinse-off cosmetics.

The cosmetic industry has been committed to promoting less hazardous products to reduce the environmental impacts of cosmetic ingredients. This requires identifying safer cosmetic ingredients for developing cosmetic formulations that are less harmful to the environment. However, one of the challenges in developing eco-friendly cosmetics relies on integrating all environmental hazard (EH) information of cosmetic ingredients to select the most eco-friendly ones (i.e., ingredients least harmful to the aquatic environment). Thus, we developed a hazard scoring tool (IARA matrix), which integrates data on biodegradation, bioaccumulation, and acute aquatic toxicity, providing a hazard index to classify cosmetic ingredients (raw materials) into categories of EH (low, moderate, high, or very high). The classification of the IARA was based on parameters established by Cradle to Cradle (C2C), the US Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA), and European Regulation 1272/2008, considering the most conservative values of each source. The Leopold matrix was employed as a model for the tool, using a numerical scale from 0 to 6 (lowest to highest EH). According to the IARA, we have successfully demonstrated that ultraviolet (UV) filter ingredients have the highest EH out of 41 cosmetic ingredients commonly used for rinse-off products. In addition to UV filters, triclosan (bactericide) and dimethicone (emollient) presented the second-highest EH for aquatic ecosystems, and humectants presented the lowest hazard index. By applying the IARA in the case study of rinse-off products, we have estimated that the aquatic hazard of cosmetic products can be reduced 46% by identifying less hazardous ingredients and combining them into a cosmetic formulation. In summary, the IARA tool allows the estimation of the EH of cosmetic ingredients, provides safer products, and helps achieve sustainability for cosmetic products. Integr Environ Assess Manag 2023;19:1619-1635. © 2023 SETAC.

Recent Patents on the Industrial Application of Biosurfactants.

BACKGROUND: Biosurfactants are natural bioactive compounds produced from fungi, bacteria and plants. These molecules have several properties that enable them to be involved in various industrial applications. The surface-active properties of biosurfactants allow their use in various sectors, such as agriculture, health, cosmetics, bioremediation/ petroleum, mining, and bioprocess. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to analyze the patents deposited in intellectual property databases for applications of biosurfactants in the areas of agriculture, health, cosmetics, bioremediation/petroleum, mining, and bioprocesses, with the research period consisting of the last six years. METHODS: This study targeted the use of biosurfactants in various industrial sectors. The patent search was carried out using the Google Patents platform, a platform that is commonly used for this purpose and freely accessible. RESULTS: During the search for patents related to applications of biosurfactants in industry filed in the last 6 years, results were found to be distributed in the following areas: agriculture (70), cosmetics (2311), bioremediation/petroleum (179), health (1794), mining (5), and bioprocess (133). Six patents were selected from each area, except for health and mining, for which the search resulted in only 5 and 4 patents, respectively, to be discussed and provide information on the biotechnological applications of biosurfactants in the industry. CONCLUSION: The present study showed a wide area of application of biosurfactants in industry. The interest in the inclusion of biosurfactants in the industry is directly related to the need for more sustainable solutions to solve real market problems. The cosmetics sector presented the most patents that employ the use of biosurfactants.