A new phytocosmetic preparation from Thymus vulgaris stimulates adipogenesis and controls skin aging process: In vitro studies and topical effects in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.

BACKGROUND: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. AIMS: We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. METHODS: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. RESULTS: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: stability studies and in vivo efficacy.

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness.

Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.

This study aims to evaluate the skin moisturizing efficacy of formulations containing different concentrations of panthenol. Formulations supplemented with or without 0.5%, 1.0%, or 5.0% panthenol were applied daily to the forearms of healthy subjects. Skin conditions in terms of moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were analyzed before and after 15- and 30-day periods of application. The formulations were also applied after skin washing with sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) to evaluate the immediate effects on TEWL and skin moisture. Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL after 30-day applications. In skin washed with SLES, significant reduction of TEWL was evident two hours after application of formulations loaded with panthenol when compared with control and vehicle. It is concluded that skin integrity is maintained by the improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation.