In vitro and in vivo confocal Raman study of human skin hydration: assessment of a new moisturizing agent, pMPC.

The hydration capacities of a biomimetic polymer, 2-methacryloyloxethylphosphorylcholine polymer (pMPC), alone and microencapsulated, in association with another well known hydrating polymer, Hyaluronic acid, were investigated in vitro on skin models and in vivo on volunteers by using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The hydration impact and the relative water content in the Stratum corneum were calculated from the Raman spectra using the OH (water)/CH3 (protein) ratio. Moreover, the follow-up of the presence of pMPC through the Stratum corneum was possible with confocal Raman microspectroscopy, using a characteristic vibration of pMPC, different from that of the encapsulating material. From our in vitro measurements, the improved hydration of the Stratum corneum was confirmed by the use of the encapsulated form of pMPC, which was higher when combined with Hyaluronic acid. On the basis of these in vitro findings, we validated this trend in in vivo measurements on 26 volunteers, and found a good correlation with the in vitro results. Mechanical and ultrastructural studies have been carried out to demonstrate the positive effects of the pMPC on the Stratum corneum function, namely the interaction with lamellar lipids and the plasticizing effects, which are both supposed to spell out the moisturizing effect. This study demonstrates the efficiency of a original hydrating agent, pMPC, entrapped with Hyaluronic acid in a new type of microcapsules by the use of a novel tool developed for both in vitro and in vivo approaches. This indicates a new step to evaluate and improve new moisturizers in response to the cosmetics or dermatologic demands.

An in vivo randomized study of human skin moisturization by a new confocal Raman fiber-optic microprobe: assessment of a glycerol-based hydration cream.

BACKGROUND: In a recent study, we demonstrated the ability of the new confocal Raman microprobe to investigate molecular and structural human skin composition under in vivo conditions. Experiments were performed at different anatomical sites, different layers, and with intervolunteer comparison. We also carried out feasibility tests using this probe to determine depth profiles of water content within the skin. OBJECTIVE: In the present investigation we employed this confocal Raman optical microprobe to rigorously objectify the resulting hydration capacities after application of a moisturizing enhancer. METHOD: The in vivo experiments were performed on 26 healthy volunteers and measurements were undertaken on six areas of the volar forearm after a randomized application of hydrating agents. Responses were evaluated by calculating the water/protein band ratio, which determines the water content in the skin. RESULTS: Data collected with the Raman microprobe showed significant changes between baseline values of control and treated skins. Statistical analysis performed on these data revealed an increase in skin moisture after application of a glycerol-based cream, which is the most widely used hydrating agent. CONCLUSION: Our results demonstrate clearly the potentials of this confocal Raman microprobe in the screening of hydrating agents or molecules under in vivo conditions. In the cosmetics field, this promising and suitable technique will undoubtedly offer new opportunities of hydration skin test evaluation.

In vivo chemical investigation of human skin using a confocal Raman fiber optic microprobe.

To evaluate the potential of a new in vivo confocal Raman microprobe, we undertake a pilot study in human skin. A fiber optic probe is operated with a 633-nm laser and trials are conducted in healthy volunteers. We examine changes in molecular composition and structure of the stratum corneum, from different volunteers, from different anatomical sites and skin layers. Main spectral variations are detected in the following regions: 800 to 900 cm(-1) (amino acids); 1200 to 1290 cm(-1) (proteins); and 1030 to 1130 cm(-1), 1300 to 1450 cm(-1), and 2800 to 2900 cm(-1) (lipids). Curve fitting of the amide 1 region performs in detail protein secondary structural variations of the amide 1 band. Protein conformation is also found to vary depending on the anatomical site and volunteer. Similar analysis of the 730- to 1170-cm(-1) spectral window reveals a different organization of lamellar lipids: gel for forearm and palm, and liquid-crystalline phase for fingertips. All these variations result from changes in the stratum corneum components such as natural moisturizing factor (NMF), lipids (namely ceramides), and water. Hierarchical clustering classification is also performed to sort out Raman data obtained from different subjects. Further improvement of the confocal probe would be to adapt a 360-deg configuration enabling access to other anatomical sites.

Skin optics revisited by in vivo confocal microscopy: melanin and sun exposure.

A new confocal prototype dedicated to the exploration of in vivo human skin has been constructed around a laser confocal module (Oz Noran, Inc.) and a skin contact device, assuring perfect stability of skin images. The power of the Argon/Krypton laser source has been limited to 2mW to secure safety, and the laser provides three visible wavelengths: 488, 568, and 647 nm. Optical sections were digitized at video rate, providing easy and rapid measurements of the thickness of epidermal layers and time-resolved information. Unexpected details of the epidermis were recorded with the blue laser line. Melanin provided strong reflection of the basal keratinocytes instead of the absorption expected. The 3D reconstruction of the melanin cap in basal keratinocytes confirmed the behavior of melanosomes acting as myriads of nanomirrors that reflected light. Confocal images of the posterior aspect of the forearm were recorded before sun exposure and then for one month after exposure. There was a 25% increase in the thickness of the stratum corneum. Bright inclusions into the dark nucleus of numerous spinous cells were interpreted as local condensation of chromatin. Numerous bright intercellular filaments were attributed to melanosomes filling up dendrites of melanocytes. A striking observation concerned the lack of melanosome caps in basal keratinocytes. In vivo confocal microscopy affords new insight to the role of melanin and its gradual migration after sun exposure.

Clinical evaluation of the cutaneous phototoxicity of 5,10,15,20-tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin.

The cutaneous phototoxic reaction induced by intravenous injection of 5,-10,-15,-20-tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin (mTHPC) has been clinically evaluated in patients undergoing photodynamic therapy. These tests were performed on the backs of 23 patients with a solar simulator at various times after drug administration ranging from 5 h to 57 days. The mTHPC doses ranged from 0.1 to 0.3 mg/kg, and the illuminations lasted from 30 s up to 8 min. These tests have shown that the duration of the skin photosensitization induced after a typical therapeutic dose of mTHPC (0.15 mg/kg) is less important than with Photofrin (2 mg/kg). The level of mTHPC in the skin was also assessed in vivo and at times corresponding to the irradiations using an optical fiber-based spectrofluorometer. This study indicates that the light-induced fluorescence spectroscopy of mTHPC enables prediction of the degree of photosensitivity of the skin.

Pharmacokinetics of tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin in human plasma and individualized light dosimetry in photodynamic therapy.

The pharmacokinetics of the photosensitizer 5,10,15,20-tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin (mTHPC) was investigated in the plasma of 20 patients by absorption and fluorescence spectroscopy. The temporal behavior was characterized by a rapid decrease in concentration during the first minutes after intravenous injection of 0.15 mg/kg mTHPC. A minimum concentration in the plasma was reached after about 45 min. The drug concentration then increased again, attaining a maximum after about 10 h, after which it decreased again with a halflife of about 30 h. Irradiation tests in the oral cavity at different time intervals after the injection revealed that the tissue reaction was only partially correlated with the mTHPC plasma level. The tissue response was stronger at later drug-light intervals (1-4 days) than during the first hours after injection even though the mTHPC plasma concentration was higher at the shorter times. Relative mTHPC concentrations were also measured in the mucosae of the oral cavity, the esophagus and the bronchi of 27 patients by light-induced fluorescence spectroscopy using an optical fiber-based spectrometer. These measurements were performed prior to photodynamic therapy (PDT), 4 days after injection of the photosensitizer. Highly significant linear correlations were found between the relative mTHPC concentrations in the mucosae of these three organs. Likewise, the plasma levels of mTHPC measured just before PDT were significantly correlated with the mTHPC concentrations in the three types of mucosae mentioned above. These results indicate that mTHPC plasma levels measured just before PDT can be used for PDT light dosimetry.

Production of the free radicals O2.- and .OH by irradiation of the photosensitizer zinc(II) phthalocyanine.

Zinc(II) phthalocyanine (ZnPC) is a new photosensitizer currently undergoing phase I and II clinical trials at Lausanne's CHUV hospital for the photodynamic therapy (PDT) of early cancer in the upper aerodigestive tract. Activated oxygen species other than singlet oxygen produced during the photosensitization of ZnPC in liposomes have been examined by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spin trapping and by the cytochrome c reduction method. Visible light irradiation of ZnPC associated with liposomes in the presence of the spin trap 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-1-oxide (DMPO) gives an EPR spectrum characteristic of the DMPO-hydroperoxyl radical spin adduct (DMPO-.OOH). Superoxide anion attains a level of 1 microM min-1 20 min after the start of irradiation as determined by the superoxide dismutase (SOD)-inhibitable reduction of cytochrome c. The yield of O2.- is strongly enhanced by physiological electron donors. An EPR spectrum characteristic of the DMPO-hydroxyl radical spin adduct (DMPO-.OH) is also observed. The addition of dimethyl sulphoxide or ethanol produces additional hyperfine splittings due to the respective hydroxyalkyl radical products, indicating the presence of free .OH. DMPO-.OH is significantly inhibited by desferrioxamine or catalase. Conversely, this adduct is enhanced by hydrogen peroxide. These data demonstrate the ability of ZnPC in liposomes to photoreact effectively by an electron transfer mechanism. Such type I processes may add to the effects of singlet oxygen in ZnPC-mediated PDT.

Zinc and DNA fragmentation in keratinocyte apoptosis: its inhibitory effect in UVB irradiated cells.

Zinc has been shown to have antioxidant properties and to exhibit inhibitory effects on apoptosis. In this work we investigated the effect of zinc on DNA integrity and on apoptosis of HaCaT keratinocytes. Cells were submitted to zinc deprivation by a diffusible zinc chelator, (N,N,N',N'-tetrakis (2-pyridylmethyl)ethylenediamine) (TPEN) or supplied with zinc chloride and submitted to UVB radiation. After cell exposure to TPEN for 2 h, strand breaks significantly impaired DNA resistance to alkaline denaturation. DNA strand breaks induced by a 6 h TPEN application were significantly prevented if zinc chloride was supplied together with the chelator. TPEN also generated, after 4-6 h of application, cytoplasmic histone-associated DNA fragments (mononucleosomes and oligonucleosomes), features of cell death by apoptosis. Moreover, UVB irradiation led to early DNA strand breaks and to an increase in cytoplasmic nucleosomes which was maximum 10 h after irradiation. These effects were prevented by the supply of zinc chloride (0.1 mM) in the culture medium. These results suggest that zinc ions interfere with the apoptosis process at an early stage, by decreasing DNA damage able to trigger apoptosis.

Photodynamic therapy of early squamous cell carcinoma with tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin: optimal drug-light interval.

The optimal drug-light interval for effective photodynamic therapy (PDT) of early squamous cell carcinomas was evaluated with tetra(m-hydroxyphenyl)chlorin (mTHPC) by means of two complementary modalities: irradiation tests and ex vivo fluorescence microscopy. A Syrian hamster cheek pouch tumour model was used in these experiments. Photodynamic therapy on both tumour-bearing and contralateral healthy cheek pouch mucosae was performed at 650 nm and 514 nm. Light doses of 12 J cm(-2) were delivered at a light dose rate of 150 mW cm(-2) and light doses of 80 J cm(-2) were delivered at a light dose rate of 100 mW cm(-2) respectively, at these two wavelengths, between 6 h and 12 days after the injection of 0.5 mg kg(-1) body weight mTHPC. Two histologically different types of tissue damage were observed: first, a non-selective and non-specific ischaemic vascular necrosis for the cases in which PDT took place during the first 48 h after the injection of the dye and, second, tissue-specific PDT damage, as a coagulation necrosis, when PDT took place more than 72 h after injection of the dye. The time-dependent biodistribution of mTHPC investigated by fluorescence microscopy shows a weak and non-significant difference in relative fluorescence intensities between early SCC and healthy mucosae. Up to 2 days after the injection, the drug is mainly localized in the endothelial cells of the blood vessels. After this period, the dye accumulates in the squamous epithelia with a concentration peaking at 4 days. At all time points, a weak fluorescence intensity is observed in the underlying lamina propria and striated muscle. The information obtained from these studies could well be relevant to clinical trials as it suggests that time delays between 4 and 8 days after i.v. injection should be optimal for PDT of early malignancies in hollow organs.

[Dynamic phototherapy: study of anti-tumour potentialities of bis (tri n-hexylsiloxy) silicon phthalocyanine on malignant achromic M6 melanocytes. EPR study of phototoxic mechanism]. / Photothérapie dynamique: étude des potentialités anti-tumorales de la bis (tri n-hexylsiloxy) phtalocyanine de silicium sur mélanocytes malins achromiques M6. Etude RPE des mécanismes phototoxiques.

Photodynamic therapy of cancerous cells is a technique relying upon the irradiation of tumorous cells after selective incorporation of a photosensitizer. The bis (tri n-hexylsiloxy) silicon phthalocyanine is a second generation photosensitizer. Anti-cancerous potentialities of this molecule have been evaluated against the melanotic M6 cell line. Results have evidenced a high phototoxicity at low concentration and no dark toxicity under the same conditions. EPR studies on the photochemical pathways involved in phototoxicity processes have been realised in solvent and model membranes (liposomes). Results provide evidences for the production of singlet oxygen (1O2) as well as superoxide (02(o)-) and hydroxyl radicals (0OH).

Photodynamic effects of hypericin on lipid peroxidation and antioxidant status in melanoma cells.

Photodynamic-induced cytotoxicity by hypericin (HYP) was studied on three human melanoma cell lines: one pigmented cell line (G361) and two amelanotic cell lines (M18 and M6). No significant variation in the rate of uptake and in the maximum level of HYP incorporation for the different cells was observed. In the dark, no cytotoxicity was observed in the range 0-10-6 M HYP for the three cell lines. Amelanotic cells were found to be more sensitive than pigmented cells to irradiation of HYP with visible light (lambda > 590 nm). In addition, for the three cell lines HYP-induced photocytotoxicity was found to be drug-dose and light-dose dependent. Under the conditions used, thiobarbituric acid-reacting substances (TBARs) were significantly increased in amelanotic cells after irradiation (P < 0.0001). By contrast, the amount of TBARS remained unchanged in pigmented cells. Antioxidant defenses including enzymes and glutathione (GSH) were assayed before and after HYP photosensitization. Significantly increased total SOD activity was observed after photosensitizaton for amelanotic cells (P < 0.05), while glutathione peroxidase (GSHPx) and catalase (Cat) activities but also GSH levels were significantly decreased (P < 0.01). In pigmented cells a significantly increased Cat activity was found (P < 0.05), whereas GSHPx was unaffected after irradiation. It can be inferred that (a) HYP may be an effective PDT agent for melanoma and (b) there is a relationship between melanin content and sensitivity to HYP phototoxicity in human melanoma cells.

Electron paramagnetic resonance evidence of the generation of superoxide (O2.-) and hydroxyl (.OH) radicals by irradiation of a new photodynamic therapy photosensitizer, Victoria Blue BO.

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) experiments were performed on Victoria Blue BO, a cationic dye whose photocytotoxicity has been studied against the human leukaemic cell lines K-562 and TF-1. EPR experiments with 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidone and spin trapping with 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide showed that, on illumination in aerated aqueous solution or DL-alpha-dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine liposomes, photoexcited Victoria Blue BO is unable to generate 1O2, whereas O2.- and .OH are trapped by 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide in the presence or absence of electron donors. The O2.- formed probably leads to the .OH radical, with an efficiency which is increased by electron donors such as FE2+.

Photodynamically induced cytotoxicity of hypericin dye on human fibroblast cell line MRC5.

The possible application of hypericin (hyp) in the photodynamic therapy (PDT) of cancer was investigated using the human fibroblast cell line MRC5. In aerobic conditions, at pH 7.4, irradiation of MRC5 cells was carried out with different doses of visible light and different doses of hyp. A low concentration of hyp (5 x 10(-9) M) was highly toxic to MRC5 cells, producing 15% survival for an irradiation period of 40 min. In the dark, no cytotoxicity was observed in the range 10(-9)-10(-7) M hyp. The mechanism of cell killing by hyp was also examined. Significant inhibition of MRC5 killing was observed on addition of 1,4-diazabicyclo[2,2,2]octane (DABCO) or histidine, known quenchers of type II mechanisms. In addition, the photodynamic effect of hyp was enhanced by deuterium oxide. The addition of desferrioxamine, catalase or superoxide dismutase (SOD), known scavenging agents of the type I mechanism, had a significant inhibitory effect on the rate of photodynamic action of hyp. The experimental results suggest that hyp has considerable potential for use as a sensitizer in the PDT of cancer.