Influence of physical-mechanical properties on SPF in sunscreen formulations on ex vivo and in vivo skin.

The sun protection factor (SPF) is related to the selected UV filters. The objective of this study was to evaluate and compare the rheological behavior and texture profile of two sunscreen formulations and to correlate these data with the obtained SPF values. Two formulations (F1 and F2) were developed with the same type and amount of UV filters - whereby one of them also contained ethoxylated lanolin as additional film former (F2). Their rheological behavior, texture profile and in vitro and in vivo SPF were analyzed. The film-forming properties were evaluated by skin profilometry and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. The structures of the formulations were examined by two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging, and the penetration profile into the stratum corneum was investigated by tape stripping. The formulation with lanolin presented lower and constant values for physical-mechanical parameters, with a higher and better reproducible SPF. Both formulations did not penetrate the viable epidermis. In conclusion, formulations with better surface deposition on the skin surface can influence the film formation and, consequently, improve the SPF. These findings are important to improve the efficacy of sunscreen formulations and reduce the addition of UV filters.

Application of Factorial Design and Rheology to the Development of Photoprotective Formulations.

A sunscreen should form a stable and homogeneous film over the skin surface, which can improve its photoprotective activity and avoid adverse effects. For this purpose, the definition of the appropriate vehicle is of fundamental importance since emulsifying agents are known to directly influence the stability, sensorial properties and surface tension of sunscreens, modulating their film-forming performance. In this context, the objective of the present study was to systematically develop formulations with UVB/UVA protection and evaluate the effect of wax concentration on the rheological behaviour. A 2-level full factorial design was applied for the development of four formulations. Two categorical factors were evaluated, glyceryl stearate plus PEG-75 stearate (Wax 1) and methyl glucose sesquistearate (Wax 2). Rheological behaviour was determined in triplicate and rheograms were analysed using the Ostwald model. Rheological parameters were correlated by the Spearman rank correlation test and effects were evaluated by Pareto chart and surface response methodology (SRM). It was possible to identify the pseudoplastic and thixotropic behaviour of all formulations exhibiting a thinning effect on higher shear stress. Factorial analysis showed that both waxes significantly influenced consistency and thixotropic behaviour. The effect of Wax 2 concentration in thixotropy was positive and of higher magnitude and a synergistic effect was also observed. Spearman correlation coefficient of consistency index and apparent viscosity was significantly strong and positive. Finally, factorial analysis allowed the determination of the effects of waxes on the rheological parameters of the formulations. A quantitative relationship between wax concentration and significant responses was established, permitting the prediction of desirable rheological properties for improved sunscreen efficacy.