Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of 2'-Hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone in B16F10 and RAW264.7 Cells.

Chalcone is a type of flavonoid compound that is widely biosynthesized in plants. Studies have shown that consuming flavonoids from fruits and vegetables or applying individual ingredients reduces the risk of skin disease. However, the effects of chalcone on melanogenesis and inflammation have not been fully investigated. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of 2'-hydroxy-3,4'-dimethoxychalcone (3,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (4,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxychalcone (3',4'-DMC), and 2'-hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone (4',6'-DMC). Among the derivatives of 2'-hydroxy-4'-methoxychalcone, 4',6'-DMC demonstrated the most potent melanogenesis-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory effects. As evidenced by various biological assays, 4',6'-DMC showed no cytotoxicity and notably decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 enzymes. Furthermore, it reduced cellular melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), ß-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase-3ß (GSK3ß), and protein kinase B (AKT) proteins, while upregulating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p-ß-catenin. Additionally, treatment with 4',6'-DMC significantly mitigated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced expression of NO, PGE2, inflammatory cytokines, COX-2, and iNOS proteins. Overall, 4',6'-DMC treatment notably alleviated LPS-induced damage by reducing nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), p38, JNK protein levels, and NF-kB/p65 nuclear translocation. Finally, the topical applicability of 4',6'-DMC was evaluated in a preliminary human skin irritation test and no adverse effects were found. These findings suggest that 4',6'-DMC may offer new possibilities for use as functional ingredients in cosmeceuticals and ointments.

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Upcycled Citrus junos Seed Anionic Peptides on Ultraviolet-Radiation-Induced Skin Aging in a Reconstructed Skin Model.

Side streams and byproducts of food are established sources of natural ingredients in cosmetics. In the present study, we obtained upcycled low-molecular-weight anionic peptides (LMAPs) using byproducts of the post-yuzu-juicing process by employing an enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. For the first time, we isolated anionic peptides less than 500 Da in molecular weight from Citrus junos TANAKA seeds via hydrolysis using this enzyme. The protective effect of LMAPs against UVR-induced photoaging was evaluated using a reconstructed skin tissue (RST) model and keratinocytes. The LMAPs protected the keratinocytes by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species and by reducing the levels of paracrine cytokines (IL-6 and TNF-α) in UVR (UVA 2 J/cm2 and UVB 15 mJ/cm2)-irradiated keratinocytes. Additionally, the increase in melanin synthesis and TRP-2 expression in RST caused by UVR was significantly inhibited by LMAP treatment. This treatment strongly induced the expression of filaggrin and laminin-5 in UVR-irradiated RST. It also increased type I collagen expression in the dermal region and in fibroblasts in vitro. These results suggest that a hydrolytic system using the enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. can be used for the commercial production of LMAPs from food byproducts and that these LMAPs can be effective ingredients for improving photoaging-induced skin diseases.

Activation of Hair Cell Growth Factors by Linoleic Acid in Malva verticillata Seed.

Hair loss by excessive stress from work and lifestyle changes has become a growing concern, particularly among young individuals. However, most drugs for alopecia impose a plethora of side effects. We have found the powerful impact of Malva verticillata seed extracts on alleviating hair loss. This study further isolated effective chemicals in M. verticillata seed extracts by liquid silica gel column chromatography. Under the screening for the growth rate (%) of human follicles dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs), we identified linoleic acid (LA) and oleic acid in n-hexane of M. verticillate (MH)2 fraction. LA treatment activated Wnt/ß-catenin signaling and induced HFDPCs growth by increasing the expression of cell cycle proteins such as cyclin D1 and cyclin-dependent kinase 2. LA treatment also increased several growth factors, such as vascular endothelial growth factor, insulin-like growth factor-1, hepatocyte growth factor, and keratinocyte growth factor, in a dose-dependent manner. Besides, LA significantly inhibited Dickkopf-related protein expression (DKK-1), a primary alopecia signaling by dihydrotestosterone. Our findings suggest that LA treatment may alleviate a testosterone-induced signaling molecule and induces HFDPCs growth by activating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling.

A Bioassay Using a Pentadecanal Derivative to Measure S1P Lyase Activity.

Sphingosine-1-phosphate (S1P) is a unique lipid ligand binding to S1P receptors to transduce various cell survival or proliferation signals via small G proteins. S1P lyase (S1PL) is the specific enzyme that degrades S1P to phosphoethanolamine and (2E)-hexadecenal and therefore regulates S1P levels. S1PL also degrades dihydrosphingosine-1-phosphate (Sa1P), with a higher affinity to produce hexadecanal. Here, we developed a newly designed assay using a C17-Sa1P substrate that degrades into pentadecanal and phosphoethanolamine. For higher sensitivity in pentadecanal analysis, we developed a quantitative protocol as well as a 5,5-dimethyl cyclohexanedione (5,5-dimethyl CHD) derivatization method. The derivatization conditions were optimized for the reaction time, temperature, and concentrations of the 5,5-dimethyl CHD reagent, acetic acid, and ammonium acetate. The S1PL reaction in the cell lysate after spiking 20 µM of C17-Sa1P for 20 min was linear to the total protein concentrations of 50 µg. The S1PL levels (4 pmol/mg/min) were readily detected in this HPLC with fluorescence detection (λex = 366 nm, λem = 455 nm). The S1PL-catalyzed reaction was linear over 30 min and yielded a Km value of 2.68 µM for C17-Sa1P. This new method was validated to measure the S1PL activity of mouse embryonal carcinoma cell lines of the standard cell (F9-0), S1PL knockdown cells (F9-2), and S1PL-overexpressed cells (F9-4). Furthermore, we treated F9-4 cells with different S1PL inhibitors such as FTY720, 4-deoxypyridoxine (DOP), and the deletion of pyridoxal-5-phosphate (P5P), an essential cofactor for S1PL activity, and observed a significant decrease in pentadecanal relative to the untreated cells. In conclusion, we developed a highly sensitive S1PL assay using a C17-Sa1P substrate for pentadecanal quantification for application in the characterization of S1PL activity in vitro.

α-Viniferin Improves Facial Hyperpigmentation via Accelerating Feedback Termination of cAMP/PKA-Signaled Phosphorylation Circuit in Facultative Melanogenesis.

Rationale: cAMP up-regulates microphthalmia-associated transcription factor subtype M (MITF-M) and tyrosinase (Tyro) in the generation of heavily pigmented melanosomes. Here, we communicate a therapeutic mechanism of hyperpigmented disorder by α-viniferin, an active constituent of Caragana sinica. Methods: We used cAMP-elevated melanocyte cultures or facial hyperpigmented patches for pigmentation assays, and applied immunoprecipitation, immunobloting, RT-PCR or reporter gene for elucidation of the antimelanogenic mechanism. Results:C. sinica or α-viniferin inhibited melanin production in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-, histamine- or cell-permeable cAMP-activated melanocyte cultures. Moreover, topical application with C. sinica containing α-viniferin, a standard in quality control, decreased melanin index on facial melasma and freckles in patients. As a molecular basis, α-viniferin accelerated protein kinase A (PKA) inactivation via the reassociation between catalytic and regulatory subunits in cAMP-elevated melanocytes, a feedback loop in the melanogenic process. α-Viniferin resultantly inhibited cAMP/PKA-signaled phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) coupled with dephosphorylation of cAMP-regulated transcriptional co-activator 1 (CRTC1), thus down-regulating expression of MITF-M or Tyro gene with decreased melanin pigmentation. Conclusion: This study assigned PKA inactivation, a feedback termination in cAMP-induced facultative melanogenesis, as a putative target of α-viniferin in the treatment of melanocyte-specific hyperpigmented disorder. Finally, C. sinica containing α-viniferin was approved as an antimelanogenic agent with topical application in skin hyperpigmentation.

Anti-melanogenic effect of gomisin N from Schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baillon (Schisandraceae) in melanoma cells.

Overproduction and accumulation of melanin in the skin can lead to pigmentation disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Many researchers are studying the regulation of melanogenesis in the skin with the aim of developing whitening cosmetics. In this study, bioactivity-guided separation of the hexane fraction of Schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baillon extract yielded five major compounds, ß-chamigrenal, α-ylangenol, gomisin N, gomisin A, and schisandrin. The structures were identified by using 1H-NMR and 13C-NMR spectroscopy and comparing the spectral data with published data. Melanogenesis inhibitory activity assay in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 mouse melanoma cells revealed that gomisin N was the active component and significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner. Thus, we evaluated the mechanism underlying its anti-melanogenic effect. Gomisin N inhibited the expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16F10 cells, while it did not affect cAMP response element binding protein (CREB) phosphorylation. Additionally, gomisin N activated AKT phosphorylation, which inhibits MITF expression. Thus, our results strongly suggest that the active compound, gomisin N, has potential for use in cosmetics to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Solubilization of n-alkylbenzenes into decanoyl-N-methylglucamide (Mega-10) solution; temperature dependence.

Solubilization of benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene, n-propylbenzene, n-butylbenzene, n-pentylbenzene, and n-hexylbenzene into micelles of decanoyl-N-methylglucamide (Mega-10) was studied at 303.2, 308.2, 313.2, and 318.2K, where equilibrium concentrations of the above solubilizates were determined spectrophotometrically. The concentration of the above solubilizates remained constant below the critical micelle concentration (cmc) and increased linearly with an increase in Mega-10 concentration above the cmc at each temperature above. The Gibbs free energy change of the solubilizates from aqueous bulk to their liquid solubilizate phase was evaluated from dependence of their aqueous solubility on alkyl chain length of the solubilizates, which leads to the DeltaG(CH0)(2) values (-3.60 to -3.38 kJ mol(-1)), the energy change per CH2 group of the alkyl chain with no strong temperature dependence. The first stepwise solubilization constant (K1) was evaluated from the slope for the change of solubilizate concentration vs. Mega-10 concentration. The Gibbs free energy change (DeltaG(0,s)) for the solubilization decreased linearly with the carbon number of alkyl chain of the solubilizates, and the DeltaG(CH0)(2)(s) values (-2.71 to -2.54 kJ mol(-1)) obtained from the linearity showed a slight increase with temperature. The DeltaG(CH0)(2) values are less than the DeltaG(CH0)(2)(s) values, where the latter values clearly indicate that the location of alkyl chain is a hydrophobic micellar core. The fact is also supported by the absorption spectrum of the solubilized molecules. Temperature dependence of DeltaG(0,s) indicated that the solubilization is entropy-driven for the solubilizates with shorter alkyl chains, while it becomes enthalpy-driven for those with longer alkyl chains.

Micelle formation of N-(1,1-dihydroperfluorooctyl)- and N-(1,1-dihydroperfluorononyl)-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chlorides.

Micelle formation of N-(1,1-dihydroperfluorooctyl)-N,N,N- and N-(1,1-dihydroperfluorononyl)-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride was investigated by analyzing the concentration dependence of the electric conductivity and of the activity of the counterion (Cl(-)) of the solution. The three micellization parameters for ionic surfactants, the micellization constant K(n), the micelle aggregation number n, and the number of counterions per micelle m, were determined by combination of electric conductivity and counterion concentration. The present analysis employed two slopes of the plots of specific conductivity against surfactant concentration below and above the critical micelle concentration and the mass action model of micelle formation. The aggregation numbers thus obtained were relatively small, while the degrees of counterion binding to the micelle (m/n) were found to be quite large, much larger than expected from the small aggregation numbers. Thermodynamical parameters of the micellization were evaluated from the temperature dependence of the three parameters, and the micellization of the fluorinated surfactant was found to be enthalpy-driven. A CF(2) group in the perfluorocarbon chain was found to be 1.44 times larger in hydrophobicity for micellization than a CH(2) group in the hydrocarbon chain.

Solubilization of n-alkylbenzenes in aggregates of sodium dodecyl sulfate and a cationic polymer of high charge density (II).

The solubilization property of the aggregate composed of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and a cationic polymer (polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride, PDADMAC) was investigated. From the binding isotherm, the increasing free SDS concentration (Cf) above the critical aggregation concentration (cac) was clearly confirmed and used to calculate the Gibbs free energy change of solubilization. The maximum additive concentration of the alkylbenzene solubilizates remained almost constant around their aqueous solubilities below the cac and then increased with increasing SDS concentration above the cac and with decreasing alkyl chain length of the solubilizates. Also, their solubility increased with increasing temperature over the concentration range of the surfactant examined. Because the monomeric DS- concentration in the aqueous phase (Cf) increased with the SDS concentration above the cac in the SDS/PDADMAC system, Cf was evaluated from the binding isotherm to calculate the change in the Gibbs energies of transfer of the solubilizates using the phase separation model. The Gibbs energy change for the solubilizates decreased with increasing temperature and increasing alkyl chain length. The decrease in the Gibbs energy per CH2 group (DeltaGCH2 degrees) was favored by an increase of temperature, and it was larger in magnitude than that for micelles of single-surfactant systems. From the values of DeltaH degrees and TDeltaS degrees, the solubilization of alkylbenzenes into SDS/PDADMAC was found to be entropy-driven.

Solubilization study for aggregates of sodium dodecyl sulfate and cationic polymer of high charge density.

Interaction of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) with a cationic polymer (polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride, PDADMAC) was investigated. The surface tension of SDS/PDADMAC solution ([PDADMAC]=100 ppm) decreased from 72 to ca. 40 mN m(-1) with increasing SDS concentration at 298.2 K, where the SDS concentration, 0.6 mmol dm(-3), at 40 mN m(-1) was less than cmc/10 of SDS. From the relatively high value of I1/I3, ca. 1.5, in the pyrene fluorescence spectrum, which is larger than the value in SDS micelles, the aggregation number is suggested to be lower than that of SDS micelles. The maximum additive concentration for n-alkylbenzenes as solubilizate increased with the increase in SDS concentration and with decreasing alkyl chain length of the solubilizates. The Gibbs energy changes for their solubilization from the phase separation model were almost the same as those from the mass action model for longer chain solubilizates, due to their smaller solubilized amounts in the micelles. The Gibbs energy change for the solubilization decreased with increasing alkyl chain length of the solubilizates. The Gibbs energy decrease per CH2 group (deltaG(CH2)0) was larger in magnitude than for micelles of single-surfactant systems, which was substantiated by the absorption spectrum change of the solubilizates.

Investigation of the interaction between sodium dodecyl sulfate and cationic polymers.

Aggregation properties of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) on a cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10), of low charge density were studied by potentiometric and pyrene fluorescence methods and compared with those of poly(diallyldimethylammomium chloride) (PDADMAC) of high charge density. The critical aggregation concentration (cac) was measured with the potentiometric method and further confirmed with the fluorescence method. The former was found to be more accurate. The value of the cac for the SDS/PQ-10 system was measured at 100, 200, and 400 ppm polymer and at 288.2,298.2, and 308.2 K. They showed almost the same cac value, 0.04 mmol dm-3. The I1/I3 value of the pyrene fluorescence spectrum in the SDS/PQ-10 system at higher SDS concentration was smaller than that in SDS/PDADMAC solution and much larger than that of water. From the binding isotherm by the potentiometric method, the free DS- concentration (Cf) and the bound DS- concentration (Cb) could be evaluated with ease over the SDS concentration range above the cac. The aggregation number of DS- aggregates for both the above polymers was evaluated from the fluorescence quenching method using the values of Cf and Cb from the potentiometric method. Because Cf in the SDS/PQ-10 system above the cac did not maintain a constant value contrary to that in the SDS/PDADMAC system but increased quite a lot, Cb should not be regarded as [SDS] - cac above the cac. The aggregation number in the SDS/PQ-10 system increased almost linearly with increasing total concentration of SDS, while that in the SDS/PDADMAC system reached a plateau. With increasing temperature, the aggregation number of the SDS/PDADMAC system decreased more rapidly than that of the SDS/PQ-10 system.