Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study.

BACKGROUND: The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers. AIM: To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide. METHODS: Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®. RESULTS: The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. CONCLUSIONS: The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol. RESULTS: Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in ß-pleated sheet conformation of keratin. CONCLUSION: Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties.

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 22 full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Applying sunscreen SPF 50 with high antioxidant capacity during fifteen days improves the dermis echogenicity and reduces the reddish skin undertone.

BACKGROUND: Of the many effects induced by UV radiation on the skin, erythema is one of the most well-known features, which is a cutaneous inflammatory reaction correlated with acute photodamage. The utilization of sunscreen may reduce this process. AIMS: To evaluate the utilization of a sunscreen SPF50 with high antioxidant capacity during 15 days by young men without photoprotection habits. METHODS: For this, we evaluated erythema, skin hydration properties, and dermis echogenicity using skin imaging techniques. Forty male participants (aged between 18 and 28 years old), 36 without previous photoprotection habits, were recruited, and the erythema was evaluated using a visual score and skin colorimeter. Macroscopic images (VivaCam®) were also obtained. Dermis echogenicity was evaluated using high-frequency ultrasonography. All the participants received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use for 15 days. RESULTS: The visual score presented a strong correlation (r = 0.8657) with the colorimeter results. Visually and using the biophysical methodologies was possible to observe the reduction of the visual erythema. The dermis echogenicity also improved, probably correlated with the acute inflammation reduction. No alterations were observed in the skin hydration and skin barrier parameters. CONCLUSIONS: The utilization of complementary and correlated different skin biophysical and imaging techniques in this study allows a better comprehension regarding the skin early photoaging process due the direct sun exposure. The utilization with a SPF 50 sunscreen with high antioxidant potential allows for a reduction in the erythema after 15 days of usage, a quick result, however, did not improved the skin barrier or SC hydration.

Prevention of chemically induced hair damage by means of treatment based on proteins and polysaccharides.

BACKGROUND: There is currently a great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of chemically damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the impact of chemical treatments and attest the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Among the most relevant cosmetic treatments for hair are bleaching and coloring, which have been shown to significantly impair mechanical and structural properties. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to characterize the damage induced by hair bleaching and coloring and to evaluate the protective effects of a hair care treatment based on integral silk proteins (fibroin and sericin) and vegetable-derived polysaccharides from linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.). METHODS: Hair swatches were subjected to different treatment protocols in order to evaluate the protective effect of proposed and benchmark products during bleaching and coloring processes. Tensile tests were performed to assess mechanical properties and improvement in resistance to breakage. Goniophotometric measurements were applied to determine improvement in luster. Hair fiber surface and relief were evaluated by SEM image analysis. RESULTS: Swatches bleached and treated with both evaluated products had a significant increase in resistance and reduced structural damage. Swatches colored and treated with both evaluated products showed reduced structural damage, and a significant increase in resistance and luster after the 1st and 5th washes. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed product was effective in protecting and repairing bleached and colored swatches, improving resistance and luster and reducing structural damage. By applying complementary techniques within a reliable evaluation protocol, it was possible to attest the protective properties of the product under study.

Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study.

Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes. A total of 46 healthy females aged 45 to 59 years were enrolled and divided into two groups: G1-placebo and G2-oral treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. Measurements of skin wrinkles, dermis echogenicity and thickness, and morphological and structural characteristics of the skin were performed in the nasolabial region of the face before and after a 90-day period of treatment using high-resolution imaging, ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy image analyses. A significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase of dermis echogenicity were observed after a 90-day period of treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage compared to the placebo and baseline values. In addition, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) image analysis showed improved collagen morphology and reduced elastosis after treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. The present study showed the clinical benefits for the skin obtained with oral supplementation with a low dose of collagen peptides from hydrolyzed fish cartilage.

Sunscreens and Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Rice Peptides for the Improvement of Skin Photoaging: A Double-blind, Randomized Placebo-controlled Clinical Study.

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20-30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.

Efficacy of topical antioxidants in the skin hyperpigmentation control: A clinical study by reflectance confocal microscopy.

BACKGROUND: Some in vitro studies have reported the potential of antioxidants for the reduction of melanogenesis. However, it is important to assess the clinical efficacy of these substances in reducing skin hyperpigmentation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants using Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). METHODS: Thirty-two healthy females aged 39-55 years were enrolled and divided into four groups: Vehicle (V), V with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), V with Spirulina sp., and V with hydroxytyrosol-titrated olive extract. Imaging analyses by high-resolution methods and RCM were performed in the malar region of the face before and after a 42-day period of application of the studied formulations. RESULTS: Reflectance confocal microscopy imaging analyses showed a significant reduction of number of hyperreflective pixels and basal layer brightness after 42 days of application of formulations containing the antioxidants compared to vehicle and baseline values, suggesting an improvement of the skin pigmentation pattern. CONCLUSION: Reflectance confocal microscopy permitted the identification of skin hyperpigmentation and the assessment of the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants in a noninvasive way. All formulations containing antioxidants significantly reduced skin hyperpigmentation after the period of application.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations Containing Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Sun Protection Factor, Physical-Mechanical and Sensorial Properties.

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprotection. However, quercetin presents low stability and poor permeation, alternatively, the encapsulation in nanoparticles can improve the stability and skin permeation. Thus, this study aimed to develop photoprotective formulations containing nanoencapsulated quercetin, characterize the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, and evaluate the influence of nanocarriers on sun protection factor (SPF) and the immediate clinical effects. Sunscreen formulations with or without antioxidants in a free form or loaded in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were developed. After the stability, rheological behavior, texture profile, and in vivo SPF (sun protector factor) evaluation, sixty female participants, aged between 20 and 35 years, were enclosed to evaluate the sensorial properties and immediate clinical effects of the formulation in the skin hydration using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The correlation of rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensory properties enabled the correct choice of formulation ingredients. In addition, the use of NLCs with quercetin significantly improved the SPF in vivo of the developed photoprotective formulation, without increasing the amount of UV filters. Finally, the association of NLCs in the photoprotective formulation showed synergistic effects in the SPF and an improvement in the skin barrier function and hydration.

Topical Formulation Containing Beeswax-Based Nanoparticles Improved In Vivo Skin Barrier Function.

Lipid nanoparticles have shown many advantages for treatment/prevention of skin disorders with damaged skin barrier function. Beeswax is a favorable candidate for the development of nanosystems in the cosmetic and dermatological fields because of its advantages for the development of products for topical application. In the present study, beeswax-based nanoparticles (BNs) were prepared using the hot melt microemulsion technique and incorporated to a gel-cream formulation. The formulation was subsequently evaluated for its rheological stability and effect on stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using in vivo biophysical techniques. BNs resulted in mean particle size of 95.72 ± 9.63 nm and zeta potential of -9.85 ± 0.57 mV. BN-loaded formulation showed shear thinning behavior, well adjusted by the Herschel-Bulkley model, and a small thixotropy index that were stable for 28 days at different temperatures. BN-loaded formulation was also able to simultaneously decrease the TEWL and increase the SCWC values 28 days after treatment. In conclusion, the novel beeswax-based nanoparticles showed potential for barrier recovery and open the perspective for its commercial use as a novel natural active as yet unexplored in the field of dermatology and cosmetics for treatment of skin diseases with damaged skin barrier function.

Comparative effects of retinoic acid or glycolic acid vehiculated in different topical formulations.

Retinoids and hydroxy acids have been widely used due to their effects in the regulation of growth and in the differentiation of epithelial cells. However, besides their similar indication, they have different mechanisms of action and thus they may have different effects on the skin; in addition, since the topical formulation efficiency depends on vehicle characteristics, the ingredients of the formulation could alter their effects. Thus the objective of this study was to compare the effects of retinoic acid (RA) and glycolic acid (GA) treatment on the hairless mouse epidermis thickness and horny layer renewal when added in gel, gel cream, or cream formulations. For this, gel, gel cream, and cream formulations (with or without 6% GA or 0.05% RA) were applied in the dorsum of hairless mice, once a day for seven days. After that, the skin was analyzed by histopathologic, morphometric, and stereologic techniques. It was observed that the effects of RA occurred independently from the vehicle, while GA had better results when added in the gel cream and cream. Retinoic acid was more effective when compared to glycolic acid, mainly in the cell renewal and the exfoliation process because it decreased the horny layer thickness.

Photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing a combination of Ginkgo biloba and green tea extracts.

The beneficial photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing combined extracts of Ginkgo biloba (GB) and green tea (GT) have not been investigated. The present study aims to assess the photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing GB and GT combined or not by applications on the dorsal skin of hairless mice prior to UVA/B irradiation. After 20 h, skin barrier damage (TEWL), erythema, histological alterations and sunburn cell formation were evaluated. The results showed that only extract supplemented formulations protected the skin against the UV-induced damage. Formulations containing GB provided total protection of the skin barrier function avoiding UV radiation damage such as TEWL and erythema and were more effective than those containing GT. However, it is suggested that formulations containing combined GB and GT may provide substantial photoprotective effects since different aspects of skin damage were influenced by each extract.

Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe vera extracts (Aloe barbadensis Miller), often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration, after a single and a 1- and 2-week period of application, by using skin bioengineering techniques. METHODS: Stable formulations containing 5% (w/w) of a trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend were supplemented with 0.10%, 0.25% or 0.50% (w/w) of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract and applied to the volar forearm of 20 female subjects. Skin conditions in terms of the water content of the stratum corneum and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 210) were analysed before and after a single and 1- and 2-week period of daily application. RESULTS: After a single application, only formulations supplemented with 0.25% and 0.50% (w/w) of Aloe vera extract increased the water content of the stratum corneum, while after the 2-week period application, all formulations containing the extract (0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) had the same effect, in both cases as compared with the vehicle. TEWL was not modified after a single and after 1- and 2-week period of application, when compared with the vehicle. CONCLUSION: Our results show that freeze-dried Aloe vera extract is a natural effective ingredient for improving skin hydration, possibly through a humectant mechanism. Consequently, it may be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also as a complement in the treatment of dry skin.