Investigating the Anti-Inflammatory Properties and Skin Penetration Ability of Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas L.) Extracts.

Plant extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active compounds in many cosmetic preparations. Their effect depends on the phytochemicals they contain and their ability to penetrate the skin. Therefore, in this study, the possibility of skin penetration by phenolic acids contained in dogwood extracts of different fruit colors (yellow, red, and dark ruby red) prepared using different extractants was investigated. These analyses were performed using a Franz chamber and HPLC-UV chromatography. Moreover, the antioxidant properties of the tested extracts were compared and their impact on the intracellular level of free radicals in skin cells was assessed. The cytotoxicity of these extracts towards keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also analyzed and their anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The analyses showed differences in the penetration of individual phenolic acids into the skin and different biological activities of the tested extracts. None of the extracts had cytotoxic effects on skin cells in vitro, and the strongest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties were found in dogwood extracts with dark ruby red fruits.

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study.

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

The Effect of Brewing Process Parameters on Antioxidant Activity and Caffeine Content in Infusions of Roasted and Unroasted Arabica Coffee Beans Originated from Different Countries.

Coffee is one of the most often consumed beverages almost all over the world. The multiplicity of beans, as well as the methods and parameters used to brew, encourages the optimization of the brewing process. The study aimed to analyze the effect of roasting beans, the brewing technique, and its parameters (time and water temperature) on antioxidant activity (determined using several in vitro methods), total polyphenols, flavonoids, and caffeine content. The infusions of unroasted and roasted Arabica beans from Brazil, Colombia, India, Peru, and Rwanda were analyzed. In general, infusions prepared from roasted beans had higher antioxidant activity and the content of above-mentioned compounds. The hot brew method was used to obtain infusions with a higher antioxidant activity, while the cold brew with higher caffeine content. The phenolic compound content in infusions prepared using both techniques depended on the roasting process. Moreover, the bean's origin, roasting process, and brewing technique had a significant effect on the tested properties, in contrary to brewing time and water temperature (below and above 90 °C), which had less impact. The results confirm the importance of coffee brewing optimization.

The application of amino acid ionic liquids as additives in the ultrasound-assisted extraction of plant material.

The aim of the present study was to determine the antioxidant activity of the aqueous extracts from Lycopodium clavatum, Cetraria islandica and Dipsacus fullonum obtained using aqueous solutions of ionic liquids by the ultrasound-assisted extraction (IL-UAE) method. Triethanolammonium salts [TEAH]+[AA]- of four amino acids of different hydrophobicity - isoleucine - Ile, methionine - Met, threonine - Thr and arginine - Arg, were chosen as ionic liquids, because they are based on natural, bio-renewable raw materials, such as amino acids and contain a pharmaceutically and cosmetically acceptable counterion of triethanolamine. Triethanolammonium salts were synthesized, identified by spectroscopic methods (NMR and FT-IR) and characterized by thermal methods (DSC and TGA). The 2.5% w/v aqueous solutions of triethanolammonium amino acid salts were used as the solvents in combination with ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE). The estimation of antioxidant properties was carried out using the DPPH, FRAP and CUPRAC assays. Total polyphenol content was measured using the reagent Folin-Ciocalteu. The results showed that the use of [TEAH]+[Thr]- or [TEAH]+[Met]- aqueous solutions increased the antioxidant activity of extracts in comparison to that achieved for extracts with pure water. The use of [TEAH]+[Thr]- as an additive for ultrasound-assisted extraction was characterized by obtaining plant extracts with the highest antioxidant potential, even 2.4-fold. The use of the AAIL-UAE method allowed obtaining higher amounts of polyphenols compared to pure water extracts, even 5.5-fold. The used method allowed the extraction of thermosensitive natural compounds, shortened the extraction time and lowered energy consumption.