A precise analysis of the relative contribution of UVA1 and visible light colour domains in solar light-induced skin pigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Solar light induces or aggravates hyperpigmentation issues. The contribution of UVA1, as well as visible light (VL), especially high-energy blue-violet visible (HEV) light, is now clearly established. OBJECTIVES: This work aimed at determining the relative contribution of UVA1, HEV and VL wavelength bands and their sub-domains in pigmentation induction. METHODS: Two clinical studies using solar simulators equipped with specific bandpass physical filters were carried out. Volunteers (FSPT III-IV) were exposed on the back to UVA1 + HEV (350-450 nm), UVA1 (350-400 nm), HEV (400-450 nm) or part of UVA1 + HEV (370-450 nm) in Study 1 (n = 27) and to VL (400-700 nm), HEV (400-450 nm), Blue (400-500 nm), Green (500-600 nm) and Green+Red (500-700 nm) domains in Study 2 (n = 25). Pigmentation level was assessed by visual scoring and colorimetry at different time points postexposure, up to Day 43. RESULTS: Induced pigmentation was detected in all exposed conditions, peaking at 2 h and thereafter progressively decreasing but remaining persistent up to Day 43. In Study 1, UVA1 showed an additive effect with HEV, with a significant contribution coming from the Longest UVA1 rays (370-400 nm). Study 2 demonstrated that 24 h postexposure, the Blue domain accounted for 71% of VL-induced pigmentation, the HEV one for 47%, the Green one for 37% and the Green+Red one for 36%, confirming no significant effect for Red light. CONCLUSIONS: Altogether, these results underline the need for UVA1 photoprotection up to 400 nm and highlight the importance of protecting the skin from solar VL wavelengths and especially from HEV, Blue and Green light, to limit induced pigmentation.

Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial.

BACKGROUND: UVA1 rays (340-400 nm) contribute to carcinogenesis, immunosuppression, hyperpigmentation, and aging. Current sunscreen formulas lack sufficient absorption in the 370-400 nm wavelengths range. Recently, a new UVA1 filter, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) exhibiting a peak of absorption at 385 nm, was approved by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety for use in sunscreen products. These studies evaluated, in a three-dimensional skin model and in vivo, the protection afforded by state-of-the-art sunscreen formulations enriched with MCE. TRIAL DESIGN: This study is a monocentric, double-blinded, randomized, and comparative trial. This study is registered at ClinicalTrials.gov with the identification number NCT04865094. METHODS: The efficacy of sunscreens with MCE was compared with that of reference formulas. In a three-dimensional skin model, histology, protein, and gene expression were analyzed. In the clinical trial, pigmentation was analyzed in 19 volunteers using colorimetric measurements and visual scoring. RESULTS: MCE addition in reference formulas enlarged the profile of absorption up to 400 nm; reduced UVA1-induced dermal and epidermal alterations at cellular, biochemical, and molecular levels; and decreased UVA1-induced pigmentation. CONCLUSIONS: Addition of MCE absorber in sunscreen formulations leads to full coverage of UV spectrum and improved UVA1 photoprotection. The data support benefits in the long term on sun-induced consequences, especially those related to public health care issues.

In vitro tools for photobiological testing: molecular responses to simulated solar UV of keratinocytes growing as monolayers or as part of reconstructed skin.

Epidermal keratinocytes are critical targets for UV-induced genotoxicity as their transformation by sunlight overexposure can lead to skin cancer such as basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). Therefore, assessment of photoprotection should involve early markers associated with DNA photodamage. Here, the same normal human keratinocytes either in monoculture (KC) or in full thickness reconstructed skin (RS) were compared with respect to their response to simulated solar UV (SSUV) exposure. Irradiation conditions (spectral power distribution and doses) were designed to mimic environmental zenithal UV from sunlight. At doses where survival was higher than 80%, comet assay showed more single strand breaks (SSB) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) in keratinocytes in RS than in KC one hour post-exposure. The transcription factor p53 was activated in both models. While in KC p53 accumulation displayed a linear dose-dependency up to 24 h post-exposure, in RS it followed a bell-shaped profile and reverted to its basal rate. QRT-PCR demonstrated that among genes controlled by p53, P21 and MDM2 were clearly induced by SSUV in KC, whereas GADD45 expression was strongly and almost exclusively up-regulated in RS. Nrf2-dependent antioxidant genes (Ferritin light chain, NQO1) were only induced in RS, yet at low doses for NQO1. In vitro models such as KC or RS allowing the development of quantitative methodologies should be used as surrogates for in vivo tests assessing photogenotoxicity.