ABSTRACT
Climbing is a fast-growing sport, with one of the most common injuries being a rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulley. The strain on pulleys increases as finger joints flex. However, to our knowledge, no study has conducted a kinematic analysis of climbers' fingers. Thus, this study aimed to examine finger kinematics during typical climbing tasks. Eleven elite climbers performed a sequence of four climbing moves, which were recorded by an optical motion capture system. Participants used crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand grips for three trials each, with the fourth condition involving campusing using any grip except crimp. Mean proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) flexion during the holding phase was 87° (SD 12°), 70° (14°) and 39° (27°) for the crimp, half-crimp and open-hand grip, respectively. Hence, inter-individual PIP flexion ranges overlap between different gripping conditions. Two different movement patterns emerged in the open-hand grip, possibly influenced by the use of the little finger, leading to varying degrees of flexion in the middle and ring fingers. Avoiding little finger usage in the open-hand grip may reduce load during pulley rupture rehabilitation. The implications of PIP joint angle variability on individual pulley injury risk or prevention warrant further investigation. Motion capture proved effective for understanding finger kinematics during climbing and could guide future studies on pulley injury risk factors.
ABSTRACT
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of conservative treatment of finger flexor tendon pulley rupture with a pulley-protection splint (PPS) with regard to reduction in tendon-phalanx distance (TPD) and functional and sport-specific outcomes in a retrospective case series. METHODS: Tendon-phalanx distance in active forced flexion was measured before and after treatment in ultrasound records. Functional and sport-specific outcomes were evaluated by means of a questionnaire, which also contained instructions for self-measurement of finger range of motion and finger strength. RESULTS: Forty-seven complete pulley ruptures in 45 rock climbers (mean age, 33.4 years; range, 21.8-56.2 years) were included in the study. In the 39 patients who had follow-up ultrasound examination, PPS treatment decreased mean ± SD TPD from 4.4 ± 1.0 mm to 2.3 ± 0.6 mm after A2 pulley rupture and from 2.9 ± 0.7 mm to 2.1 ± 0.5 mm after A4 pulley rupture. Tendon-phalanx distance was reduced in all patients. Finger range of motion (n = 42) and finger strength (n = 22) did not differ significantly between treated and contralateral sides. Of the 43 climbers who completed questionnaires, 38 had regained their previous climbing level a mean 8.8 months after pulley rupture; 1 reported reduced finger dexterity; 39 assessed their treatment results to be good, and 4 to be very good. CONCLUSIONS: The PPS is an effective conservative treatment modality for pulley ruptures, which reduces TPD and enables the patient to regain previous finger function.